Replace transmission cooler lines with hose? (4.7 / 545RFE) - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-25-2019, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
chrisml
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Replace transmission cooler lines with hose? (4.7 / 545RFE)

My 04 WJ Overland with the 4.7 HO and 545RFE is leaking transmission fluid. The first indicator was the puddle where the clip (mopar part #52079789ab) broke letting the two lines sit on the drag link, causing the lower line to develop a hole.

Since it was accessable, away from the exhaust, and I'm cheap, I cut out the damaged tube and replaced it with hose, with 2 hose clamps on both sides. Once I did that, I realized that the clip further back over the cat was also causing rusting and weeping.



My local auto parts place can get me a dorman 624-531 pressure line for $450. They don't have the return line. The parts guy said "just replace it with hose".

I found the mopar pressure (52079375) and return lines (52079783AA) for about 300 Canadian pesos on rockauto.

I can get 15 feet of ATF safe 300psi hose for $60.

My question is, is there any good reason I can't cut the two hard lines and replace the tube with hose, and instead of routing the hose between the cat and oil pan route it along the frame rail to the rad/trans cooler.

I'd rather have barbs on the tube to be honest, but I'm wondering if I could replace the existing tube with a couple S.U.R.&R. TR970 adapters. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...95376&jsn=2582 (or maybe the straight equivelent. I would have to re-use my tube nuts because I don't have any idea what thread they have on them.


Last edited by chrisml; 03-25-2019 at 09:33 PM. Reason: accidentally overwrote my post before submitting.
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-26-2019, 04:47 AM
JeppeWJ
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I can't think of a reason why you can't replace it with hose. I changed the last part of the cooler lines with hose because I wanted to bypass the radiator to it's own transmission cooler.
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-26-2019, 06:31 AM
frankjc
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I replaced leaking sections of mine with hose.
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-26-2019, 09:55 AM
99sajeep
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Hose should be fine, but I wouldn't use regular worm-gear hose clamps. Spend the extra $$ and get the ones that use a bolt to tighten up. There isn't a lot of pressure in those lines, but there is pressure. And if the trans fluid can find a way, it will leak. Plus, I've had too many worm-gear clamps get over tightened and then you can never get them to hold right after. I don't trust them.

'05 WK 4x4 Ltd 5.7L (mine) 200k+ club
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-26-2019, 10:17 AM
Double E
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With all of that rust ...if I did use the worm type ...I'd use 2 of them and then get only stainless.
Agree that there is not a lot of pressure in the lines. On my 2000 4.7, I added an external trans fluid cooler, removing the internal radiator cooler form the circuit. I just used fuel line to route it as that's what the Dorman kit came with.
Don't overthink it.

'04 Freedom Edition HO & '04 Overland HO (previous '00 Laredo 4.7)
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-26-2019, 10:28 AM
99wjtx
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Other than proximity to heat being an issue over time, hose should work fine. Hose sold as transmission line hose actually exists but fuel hose would probably work too. Obviously, vacuum line or non-reinforced hose should be avoided. You could probably use sections of scrap metal tubing in proximity to any heat source and then hose elsewhere.

I love hardware store type hacks that are equal to or better than an automobile OE's solution, especially when it comes at a fraction of the cost.
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-26-2019, 11:07 AM
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisml View Post
My 04 WJ Overland with the 4.7 HO and 545RFE is leaking transmission fluid. The first indicator was the puddle where the clip (mopar part #52079789ab) broke letting the two lines sit on the drag link, causing the lower line to develop a hole.

Since it was accessable, away from the exhaust, and I'm cheap, I cut out the damaged tube and replaced it with hose, with 2 hose clamps on both sides. Once I did that, I realized that the clip further back over the cat was also causing rusting and weeping.



My local auto parts place can get me a dorman 624-531 pressure line for $450. They don't have the return line. The parts guy said "just replace it with hose".

I found the mopar pressure (52079375) and return lines (52079783AA) for about 300 Canadian pesos on rockauto.

I can get 15 feet of ATF safe 300psi hose for $60.

My question is, is there any good reason I can't cut the two hard lines and replace the tube with hose, and instead of routing the hose between the cat and oil pan route it along the frame rail to the rad/trans cooler.

I'd rather have barbs on the tube to be honest, but I'm wondering if I could replace the existing tube with a couple S.U.R.&R. TR970 adapters. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...95376&jsn=2582 (or maybe the straight equivelent. I would have to re-use my tube nuts because I don't have any idea what thread they have on them.
Who came up with that sky-high $450 price at the parts store since that same Dorman 624-531 line is $73 plus shipping at Rockauto?? Maybe just a typo?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=448&jsn=448

Regardless, everyone of those Dorman or Mopar trans/cooler lines on Rockauto have rubber hose attached or a place for it on one end towards the radiator/trans cooler.

If I'm going to cut a metal line and add rubber hose at the splice I'll use my flaring kit to put a slight flare on the end accepting the rubber hose. That way your clamps with be holding on the hose tight behind the flared metal line underneath. And I'll use 2 fuel injection clamps together on each hose connection since they're stronger than worm clamps while putting the screws on them on opposite sides.

I don't see a problem using rubber hose since you're keeping it away from the engine/exhaust on the frame rail or unibody. Just make sure you have it secured there good.

One thing I noticed in your photo is how rusted that line/nut is which goes in the higher fitting at the trans. If fixing the other rusted through parts of the line don't believe I'd leave that like it is. That is where the Dorman 624-531 or Mopar 52079375 line attaches which can be seen on page 007-620 of the 04 parts list.

Not sure where you'd place those fittings in your link and if you don't have a flaring tool many parts stores have loaner ones.

Know it's no fun to work on the lines where they attach to the transmission and of course it would be the hardest one to reach. Lots of rust cutter ahead of time for soaking. Good luck.

2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 ZJ


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post #8 of 12 Old 03-26-2019, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
chrisml
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Thanks everyone, I'm glad to see the consensus is that rubber hose won't immediately burst and set my Jeep on fire.

Also I've never seen those fuel line style clamps before, but I'm going to pick up a bunch. They look like they could be useful elsewhere as well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 99wjtx View Post
You could probably use sections of scrap metal tubing in proximity to any heat source and then hose elsewhere.
Not a bad idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Who came up with that sky-high $450 price at the parts store since that same Dorman 624-531 line is $73 plus shipping at Rockauto?? Maybe just a typo?
Ah, I see you've never been to PartSource or Canadian Tire. They may have been high when they set the price. Weed is legal here.

I found that same diagram online somewhere. As far as I can tell the Mopar Part 04799433AB or #8 on the diagram is a bushing, and then the steel line has a tube nut that screws into it. I don't think I can get outside one without paying stealership prices.

I like your idea of flaring the lines. Originally I studied the Dorman part and it looks like the ends of the lines are the same as the adapters I was going to pick up, but looking again with fresh eyes I'm qestioning that. I planned to use the adapters with the original tube nuts, but I could probably re-use the old lines and throw a bubble flare on them with a loaner flare too. I guess either way it's time to go spray penetrating oil while I wait for parts to arrive.
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post #9 of 12 Old 04-08-2020, 12:59 AM
sdg3205
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Am I correct in that the top metal line that goes to the bottom cooler fitting is the SEND and that the top cooler fitting that sends back to the bottom/lower metal line is the return?
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post #10 of 12 Old 04-09-2020, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by sdg3205 View Post
Am I correct in that the top metal line that goes to the bottom cooler fitting is the SEND and that the top cooler fitting that sends back to the bottom/lower metal line is the return?

Yes, the top line is the fluid leaving the trans, and the bottom line is the fluid heading back to the trans.

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #11 of 12 Old 04-09-2020, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigrigr View Post
Yes, the top line is the fluid leaving the trans, and the bottom line is the fluid heading back to the trans.
Thank you. It was oddly difficult finding that information. I even sifted through the workshop manual but if its in there, its buried.
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post #12 of 12 Old 04-09-2020, 08:05 AM
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Thank you. It was oddly difficult finding that information. I even sifted through the workshop manual but if its in there, its buried.

Only reason i know, is because my son just installed a trans temp gauge in his 2000, and we had to look it up so we got the sensor in the correct location. We had to do some real Googleing on the interwebs to find anything.

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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