Rear clunking noise - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 24 Old 03-18-2019, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
alferro
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Rear clunking noise

I know that a lot has been said about this topic but I can not find the final solution to the problem.

My Jeep is lifted 2 "with OME springs and Rough Country N2.0 shock absorbers, the rear sway bar is eliminated.

This is what i have done for now:
RUCA ball joint replaced.
Stock shock sleeves mounted on RC bushings with M12 screws.
Washers welded on shock mounts.
I have put washers to hold shock bushings.
Spring isolators replaced.
Added a RUCA spacer.


I have tried to drive without shocks and the noise disappears but I don't know if it is caused by the shocks or by some slack in the control arm bushings or for some other reason. The noise only occurs in some rapid rebounds and as the suspension works differently with and without shocks maybe the noise does not come from the shocks themselves.

This clunking noise doesn't look metallic from the inside and i can't hear it from the outside.

Before changing more parts I woul like to know if someone has found finally the origin of this noise and its solution.


1999 WJ 4.7 Limited Quadra Drive
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post #2 of 24 Old 03-18-2019, 06:23 PM
Mattyjm
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You have to torque those shocks to spec or beyond, or they'll clunk. I also had RC N2.0s on my 2000 WJ. They clunked until I retorqued them to spec. I also had no added washers or hardware, just the sleeves that came with them.

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post #3 of 24 Old 03-18-2019, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
alferro
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The screws are tightened to 80/85 Ft/Lbs.

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post #4 of 24 Old 03-19-2019, 10:23 AM
Jeeples
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Rear upper control arm bushings will cause a clunk. They can be replaced vs. buying an entire new arm.


The other, less common, area to look for clunks is the tailpipe mount. If the rubber isolator is worn/stretched you can get an occasional clunk as the bend in the tailpipe contacts the heatshield and/or skidplate for the fuel tank.
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This is easily the worst post, and thread, I have ever seen in 7 years of being on JF.
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post #5 of 24 Old 03-19-2019, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
alferro
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A arm bushings were replaced 8,000 miles ago but maybe that's it

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post #6 of 24 Old 03-24-2019, 09:28 AM
MuddyWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alferro View Post
A arm bushings were replaced 8,000 miles ago but maybe that's it
Did you use mopar bushings? Aftermarket bushings are not know to last on the upper a-arm.
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post #7 of 24 Old 03-24-2019, 10:33 AM
Mavalon
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Have the sway bar links been looked at?
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post #8 of 24 Old 03-24-2019, 02:14 PM
Sprung99GC
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I used the KOR bolts and sleeves. Running the same shocks. Torqued them down good and tight. Clunking is gone.
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post #9 of 24 Old 03-25-2019, 04:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mavalon View Post
Have the sway bar links been looked at?
Ditto. With a lift the stress on these goes up. I replace mine about every 15k with a lifetime warrantee at my parts supplier. Mine started clunking again this week.

'02 4.7HO ~222k ml. 2.5" BDS Springs, All new control arms and Addco Sways. 245-70-17.
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post #10 of 24 Old 03-26-2019, 08:34 AM
MuddyWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadsled jeep View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mavalon View Post
Have the sway bar links been looked at?
Ditto. With a lift the stress on these goes up. I replace mine about every 15k with a lifetime warrantee at my parts supplier. Mine started clunking again this week.
Why not just delete the rear sway bar? Personally I see minimal difference with it attached assuming you have the stock pencil thin one.
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post #11 of 24 Old 03-26-2019, 08:43 AM
LuthWJ77
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Muddy, you ever disconnect front also? I like the idea of this on the trail but wonder if it would feel like it was going to roll over on every turn once I disconnected the front also? Of course low speed stuff nothing on road.
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post #12 of 24 Old 03-26-2019, 09:30 AM
Jeeples
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuthWJ77 View Post
Muddy, you ever disconnect front also? I like the idea of this on the trail but wonder if it would feel like it was going to roll over on every turn once I disconnected the front also? Of course low speed stuff nothing on road.

I can't speak for Muddy, but having driven my WJ around fully disconnected around town in Moab, I'll pass.

Currently I have just the front connected but that's because I need to fab up a pair of spacers for the rear to clear my D44A skid. With the stiff spring rate of my Zone springs I don't really notice much of a difference without the rear, however quicker lane changes (such as swerving to avoid road debris or someone who cuts you off) are a bit unnerving, particularly at freeway speeds.

After an incident on the drive in to work recently I'm more inclined to have the rear sway bar hooked up now too.

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- Some more stuff


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Originally Posted by Jeeples
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post #13 of 24 Old 03-26-2019, 09:36 AM
LuthWJ77
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Yeah kind of what I was thinking. Fully connected with 4" lift w/32" on stock wheels feels like I could roll it over without too much effort. I just rebuilt all the bushings on the rear one might as well leave the flimsy sucker on there then.
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post #14 of 24 Old 03-27-2019, 10:08 AM
MuddyWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuthWJ77 View Post
Yeah kind of what I was thinking. Fully connected with 4" lift w/32" on stock wheels feels like I could roll it over without too much effort. I just rebuilt all the bushings on the rear one might as well leave the flimsy sucker on there then.
I have 6.5 " on 33s and don't feel unsafe at all without a rear swaybar. I know what my rig is capable of though so I know her limitations.
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post #15 of 24 Old 03-27-2019, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
alferro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuddyWJ View Post
Did you use mopar bushings? Aftermarket bushings are not know to last on the upper a-arm.
Crown bushings.

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