Rear axle seal leak - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 76 Old 05-13-2021, 10:19 PM
Bigrigr
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Unfortunately the axle shafts do get nicked sometimes, but it makes no difference at all, unless there are many....One little nick will be fine.


'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #47 of 76 Old 05-14-2021, 01:20 AM
mak_v8
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Thanks @Bigrigr for your answer.
Now I have to understand tolerances for straightness and unbalanced plate...

Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 V8 HO. m.y. 2002
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post #48 of 76 Old 05-14-2021, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mak_v8 View Post
Thanks @Bigrigr for your answer.
Now I have to understand tolerances for straightness and unbalanced plate...

Obviously, in a perfect world, we would never have a nick in our axle shafts under the bearing race, but this isnt a perfect world. The only time this would be a problem, is if there were so many nicks that the race could no longer stay tight on the shaft. Balance isnt a real issue either here, as these shafts really dont spin THAT fast going down the road, so a small loss in mass wont effect it. We do our best to keep from cutting to deep through the race every time we do a replacement, but it is really hard to do perfectly every time because the tolerances are so tight. Cutting 7/8 of the way through the race, then popping it open with a cold chisel and a hammer is the best way to do it that I know. (but sometimes 7/8 becomes 8/8...)

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #49 of 76 Old 05-14-2021, 10:31 AM
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Thanks for your consideration @Bigrigr
And what about straightness? do you think that measures showed in the videos are acceptable?

This is a new world for me, first time I pull a shaft from an axle, first time I face this kind of problems.... Thanks for patience.

First time I see people pulling a shaft with a hammer....

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post #50 of 76 Old 05-14-2021, 04:10 PM
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My answer was based on the assumption parts are hard to get where you are. If that is not the case and you can source that axle shaft without difficulty I would indeed replace it.

2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
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post #51 of 76 Old 05-15-2021, 02:46 PM
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The only thing i saw in the videos that would apply to the possibility of reusing that shaft is the runout on the last video of the actual shaft retainer surface itself. It only looked to be a couple thousands out. Not bad at all. the other measurements you made where on parts that you will be replacing anyways, (I would hope). Two were on the outer bearing race, which should not spin in the housing anyways.(doesnt need to be straight-just needs to be tight in the tube) The hammering on the backside of the wheel flange would not concern me either. I believe you just have some "dents" there, (from his hammering) but what you need to be worried about is the straightness of the other side where the wheel and brake rotor sit. If it where me, and my other axle was unusable, I would totally use that axle as replacement.

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #52 of 76 Old 05-15-2021, 04:52 PM
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Hi Guys, many thanks for your time, I appreciate a lot.

The shaft in the video is my original shaft, I only have it.
The “mechanic” changed the seal (and used a wrong seal....) and bearing, hammered, grinded and plained dents.

The shaft seems straight, few hundreths of millimeters runout, the plate, on the drum rotor side, seems a little, non perpendicular to the shaft in a way compatible with the hammering.

I probably found a way of buying a new complete DANA shaft at a reasonable cost, it only takes two month arriving in Italy (it comes swimming through the ocean... LOL); probably, with the goal to give peace to my anxious doubts in my brain, I will follow this road.
I go on thinking...

Thank you again guys!

Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 V8 HO. m.y. 2002
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post #53 of 76 Old 05-16-2021, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mak_v8 View Post

I probably found a way of buying a new complete DANA shaft at a reasonable cost, it only takes two month arriving in Italy (it comes swimming through the ocean... LOL); probably, with the goal to give peace to my anxious doubts in my brain, I will follow this road.
I go on thinking...
If you have the ability to get a new shaft, I would get new. If this is the Left side shaft, it is the short shaft and it can actually be used on either side in an emergency. If you go offroading a lot, get a second seal/hardware kit and install it on the shaft. Oil the parts and wrap it in plastic. Keep it as a trail spare. If either side axle shaft breaks on the trail, you can install it so you can limp home.
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post #54 of 76 Old 05-16-2021, 03:18 PM
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Would it be quicker having it bought here in the States and shipped to you?

2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
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post #55 of 76 Old 05-16-2021, 05:55 PM
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@cDee63 ,
a seller in USA ships to Italy directly, it takes more or less a week; the seller in Italy has the supplier that waits probably to complete a container before shipping, so it takes 2 months.
Difference is in time and in cost: 70 euros less in Italy (shipping in a container costs less)
Other concern and doubt is in warranty, probably (but probably not... LOL) easier to manage with the italian supplier (I hope I don't have to open a claim for warranty... LOL, but I am lucky...., or probably not... LOL).

Just to complete infos about the shaft, here some pictures of the wheel plate:







and yes...., a puller..., a puller was enought to avoid this disaster.....

Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 V8 HO. m.y. 2002
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post #56 of 76 Old 05-17-2021, 07:43 AM
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I would not be bothered by those hammer marks in the least myself....Yes, a puller is a better way to go, but what if you break it on the trail? A hammer comes out and makes marks just like that...

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #57 of 76 Old 05-17-2021, 08:08 AM
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I can’t watch the videos at the moment, but a few hundredths of a millimeter shouldn’t be too much. Also, the straightness would depend on where you’re locating the shaft( between centers, on a ground surface, etc.).

If you ever want to straighten a shaft, you just need a locating surface that is secure, find the high point in the shaft and smack it with a plastic hammer. On a shaft that long, I don’t think that spec is too bad and I’m not 100% sure you’d move it with a hammer. They’re straightened on hydraulic presses.
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post #58 of 76 Old 05-17-2021, 10:06 AM
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Hi guys, thanks for your feedbacks.

In the hypothesis (hypothesis that is very near to reality) of installing a brand new complete shaft, what about Detroit Axle or Rockauto?

Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 V8 HO. m.y. 2002
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post #59 of 76 Old 05-17-2021, 06:35 PM
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Am I reading your indicator right that the bearing shaft itself has 2 hundredths of a millimeter?
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post #60 of 76 Old 05-17-2021, 06:38 PM
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How is the shaft attached to the headstock of the lathe?

Why are you going to replace it?
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