Rear axle seal leak - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 76 Old 01-29-2020, 02:47 PM
zouaveherb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mak_v8 View Post
but he said to me: "let's use japanese parts, leave the warranty alone...."...
I think that he is covering his mistakes...

I have to open it and look with my eyes, or ask other shops to let me assist during the opening.

Do anyone have ever used Spicer spare parts?
I have asked to other shops, they usually use SKF parts.... and I don't want to use them...
Mopar, Spicer, or Timkin. If you buy Mopar, it will be Spicer or Timkin in the Mopar packaging.

Do NOT use generic parts.

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post #32 of 76 Old 02-03-2020, 04:56 AM
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Hi guys, sorry for upping the thread.
I am going to open the axle; I have the jeep in the garage, I live in Milan, and house garages are very little.... , so I have to check if I succeed in completely pull out the axle.

Do someone knows the exact lenght of the rear left axle, so I can check if I have enought room for this?

(I am prepared to do a hole in the wall... )

Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 V8 HO. m.y. 2002
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post #33 of 76 Old 02-03-2020, 05:31 AM
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A whole In the wall I like it


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post #34 of 76 Old 02-03-2020, 09:31 AM
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As mentioned before below you'll need to figure out if you have Vari-lok axles or not to determine the length of your rear axle shafts. And you can use Rockauto to look up the axle shaft lengths/specs.

The Vari-lok axles are LS (Limited Slip) where the friction modifier (FM)is needed in the differential fluid. Non-LS alxes don't need this FM additive which could already be in certain fluids you use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Not sure how much shipping/duty costs are but you may find a better deal on Rockauto. It matters whether it's a vari-lok (they call it hydra-lok) or not since the spline counts and lengths are different. Good luck.

https://www.rockauto.com/
If you still don't know if you have Vari-lok axles or not you can enter in your VIN in the below link and your build sheet will list what came on your WJ from the factory. Good luck.

https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing

2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 ZJ


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post #35 of 76 Old 02-03-2020, 10:38 AM
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Many thanks Uniblurb, I have Vari-Lok axles, I know that axles are different in lenght from the NON-Vari-Lok.

I found on Rockauto the dimension (32,38 inches, from this link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...86794&jsn=2233), but I can't exactly understand from where to where this dimension is taken: is it from outside to outside, or is it from the inside of the lugs plate to outside of the axle?

If it is the second case, ...I have to make a hole in the wall...

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post #36 of 76 Old 02-03-2020, 01:58 PM
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No problem mak_v8 and you probably meant to type the measurement 38.38" using a decimal rather than a comma. Believe the below short video is correct where you measure the axle from the outside of the flange to the tip where the splines are.

If you could borrow a wheeled floor jack you may be able to place it under the differential pumpkin with handle pointed behind the rear left tire. Then push your WJ rear end just over slightly so you wouldn't have to cut a hole in the wall. You just wouldn't want anything under it, with pumpkin in cup of the jack head, until you position jack stands under it again. Unless you could just drive it into the garage at a slight angle with rear end closer to the wall on the right side for pulling the left rear axle.

Here's the video.
https://www.google.com/search?client...CHggevrpLYBQ24

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post #37 of 76 Old 02-03-2020, 04:58 PM
mak_v8
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Many thanks Uniblurb!
Yes, here in Europe we use comma intead of point to separate decimals.

Thank you for the link, I saw the video and also found this useful chart from this website:
https://www.sierragear.com/different...e-measurement/



Now everything is clear.

...the wall probably is saved....

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post #38 of 76 Old 03-08-2020, 05:17 AM
mak_v8
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Hi guys,
I finally pulled the axle out, ...no holes in the wall!
I bought the puller, but ...the axle came out simply pulling with one hand, ..and without applying a so hight force.

Here a picture, ...I imagine that you all will understand the "problem":



...or "the problemS"


Other pictures, showing strange things:
The "old original seal"


The actual seal:




The old and the new safety ring:

Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 V8 HO. m.y. 2002
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post #39 of 76 Old 05-12-2021, 06:14 PM
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Hi guys, I am continuing this thread after more than a year....

The situation is, we could say, ...stagnant; a series of events caused the complete stop of the repair, the WJ is resting on three weels and a jack column since more than a year...; sad situation.

I succeed in buying DANA spare parts in a shop in Italy, but I take a close look at the shaft and noticed some things that let me thinking, thinking, ...and not doing.
I have some doubts about the route to follow.
The shaft has been hammered on the inner face of the wheel plate by the mechanic to pull it off; a big hammer instead of using a pulling-hammer (40 dollars on Amazon..... ).
The hammer obviously caused some dents on the inner face of the wheel plate, and the mechanic had the "awesome" idea to plain them with a grinder... (you can see signs of the grinder in the previous pictures), so the plate is no more balanced.
The mechanic 100% damaged the bearing surface during the removal of the inner race of the old bearing (the inner race is cutted from side to side, ...the grinder touched the axle);
My doubt is that the shaft is bent over due to the hard hammering during removal.

I have used a turning machine trying to check if the shaft was straight or not.
I found a swing of some hundredths of a millimeter in some points; here follows a hand drawing of my measures, it is in italian, but I am sure it is fully understandable.
The swing is in every point I measured within the limits of 10 hundredths of a millimeter:



Now I have a great doubt: to go on in changing seal and bearing on the actual shaft, or to go directly for a new shaft (I found a DANA axle, code 76454-2X, at a final cost of 420 €) solving every possible problem caused by the previous mechanic?

Do you think that the actual shaft is too much damaged, bented, or weakened?

In case it is better to go for a new shaft, could someone confirm me that the shaft code 76454-2X is correct?

On the web I found a DANA catalogue that lists each part of axle assembly starting from the proper code of the assembly.
On my differential cover, on one of the two labels on which is written the type of oil and additive, I found this code: 606555-3
This code seems to be the code of the axle assembly installed on the jeep, a sort of bill of material code; at this code are associated parts code of each part: the driver side shaft assembly is 76454-2X.
Could someone please confirm that I correctly understood the whole thing?

Here the picture of the label:



Please help me in fixing my WJ, this thing is turning into a nightmare.....

Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 V8 HO. m.y. 2002
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post #40 of 76 Old 05-12-2021, 08:27 PM
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76454-2X is a rear LH shaft for the Vari Lok Axle you have by the tag shown.
https://www.morris4x4center.com/spic...-76454-2x.html
So yes, you are correct. Drivers side axle shaft.

2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
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post #41 of 76 Old 05-13-2021, 01:13 AM
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Thank you @cDee63 !

What about the actual shaft, is it worth to buy a new one due to dents, grindings (so no more balanced) and the doubt that it is no more straight due to the hard hammering?

I am trying to find a way of posting videos I took while she shaft was on the turning machine:

Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 V8 HO. m.y. 2002
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post #42 of 76 Old 05-13-2021, 05:50 AM
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All good stuff so far...I have the 12 ton HF press as well, and yes it is a little short for the one axle shaft, but it can be done with a little fiddling. If a guy really wanted to go cheap and easy, or just doesnt want to store a press, he could get a long piece of pipe to slip over the axle shaft and press the bearing and retainer on with a hammer. this usually makes you pipe a permanent axle bearing "press" as it deforms the pipe where you beat it with a hammer, but it works. Been done on the side of the trail before this way....

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post #43 of 76 Old 05-13-2021, 09:38 AM
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here some videos regarding the measurement I did:





and a picture of the cutted inner bearing race:





My doubt is not so much the shaft that could be not straight, but the grinder cut on the bearing place...
In every place in this forum I have always read "pay attention to not damage the shaft", but if this thing happens? which is the "limit" that cause the shaft to be ready for the trash?

I know... I am tremendously anxious... thank you so much for your advises

Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 V8 HO. m.y. 2002
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post #44 of 76 Old 05-13-2021, 07:11 PM
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If the axle is straight, me, I would run the one you have. I don't feel a small nick on the shaft is a big deal, it is covered with the new race after all. Something big is a different story but the nick on the bottom of the ring pictured doesn't look to be very deep.

2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
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post #45 of 76 Old 05-13-2021, 08:06 PM
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Thanks @cDee63 for your answer.
The measures I have taken on the turning machine say that the plate is a little little not perpendicular and the difference is 5 or 6 hundredths of a millimeter on the external plate diameter (165 mm); I don't know the tolerance for this, so I don't know if the shaft can be considered straight or not.
The nick is ten millimeters long, can't say how much deep.
The plate, in the inner face is grinded, lack of material causes a little unbalancing, and I don't know if little vibrations caused from this can be a problem for the bearing and the seal in the future.

An info: do you can see videos I posted or they appear to be unavailable?

Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 V8 HO. m.y. 2002
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