Question for heater core veterans - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 45 Old 11-18-2019, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
Hodgelodge
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Question for heater core veterans

02 limited 4.7 with dual zone, getting ready to do this job in a few weeks, have watched several videos and searched the forum. For those who have done this ; Is it easier to pull the steering wheel or remove the drivers seat and drop the wheel to the floor ? Does the receiver/dryer HAVE to be removed ? and what is really required as far as under the hood disassembly. I have over the past few months purchased a mopar core , rockauto evap, have'nt got the blend doors yet . Any suggestions on the doors ? Heatertreater seems pricey since right now they are working. My only real concern with the job is old/brittle wiring, alot of connectors need to be removed. Thanks as always.

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post #2 of 45 Old 11-18-2019, 06:35 PM
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I don't think you'll have a problem with brittle wires or connectors like you might working under the hood.

Removing the driver's seat (or maybe both) is generally considered worth the extra time and effort.

The consensus here seems to be that simply dropping the steering wheel is sufficient and quicker/less risky.

The accumulator doesn't have to be removed but unfortunately, it and the liquid line both have to be disconnected from the evaporator, which is fitted within the HVAC assembly and will pull off the firewall with it.

Original OE-type door assemblies will be a waste of time and money unless they specifically incorporate necessary design improvements. Around 2011, I replaced the broken blend door and recirculation assemblies with the OE-style Dorman products and both failed again within a couple of years. I believe there are a couple of metal/design alternatives from different manufacturers which are similar to the heater treater products.

The only thing that has to be done under the hood is to disconnect the two AC lines and the heater hoses. However, you may find getting to those somewhat frustrating without long extensions, long needle nose/hose pliars and patience. I believe the nuts for the AC lines are both 13mm. You'll need a deep socket.

The best advice I can give is to be methodical with the fasteners so that you know what goes where when it comes time to reassemble. Put them in bags, cups, label them - whatever you need to do to keep them all straight. There's nothing really difficult about the procedure, including the steering wheel drop, but the whole thing is time-consuming.

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post #3 of 45 Old 11-18-2019, 08:30 PM
HarryH3
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Also, if you haven't yet, check out this thread for info and ideas: https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...vents-3544698/
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post #4 of 45 Old 11-18-2019, 11:12 PM
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On the blend doors you're probably going to find they're pretty nasty once you open the box. I'd go with the blendorstore dual-control blend doors which are made of HD aluminum with solid shafts and dense foam. Those would be the ones which require dash removal since you'll already have the box out. Price is $40 for both doors with free shipping in the US.

http://blendorstore.com/e


While most don't think about it I'd also replace the passenger-side blend door actuator/motor. The drivers-side and passenger-side actuators are identical and the same OE part number; 5012710AA referred to as "Servo, AC temperature door". Only go with Mopar and it's $28.79 for one servo on Rockauto plus shipping.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=7093528&jsn=3

My reason for suggesting to replace the passenger-side blend door servo is it's on the front of the box towards the firewall. Only way to get to it to replace later is removing the whole box. I know mine was sticking some which was causing problems with heat/AC on the passenger-side. I did go through the front of the box to replace the blend doors but already have a new Mopar servo when I end up pulling the box replacing most parts. It's no problem replacing the drivers-side blend door actuator/servo anytime since it's on the box right behind the glove compartment.

I don't buy anything from Rockauto w/o entering in a 5% discount code in their "How did you hear about us?" box at checkout. Not much off but helps pay for shipping.

https://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com

Your call and some real good info from Harry on replacing those dash/vent seals. Also suggest you plan on replacing the foam seal(s) for the evaporator tubes and the seal fits on the box towards the firewall. Good luck.

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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post #5 of 45 Old 11-18-2019, 11:29 PM
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You can leave the seats and steering wheel in just lay the steering wheel on the seat, I would pull both front seats its so much easier because that dash weighs about 100 lbs, leave the a pillar posts in don't remove the gauge cluster or radio trim that all comes out together. you will have a bit of an easier time to move the PCM those heater core hoses are a bugger to access.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310...build-4367061/ I just did this but reused my evap and heater core cause they were good.
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post #6 of 45 Old 11-19-2019, 12:06 AM
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Agree with all above. I pulled both front seats and of course the console. Then just set the steering wheel on the ground. As a note, there is a really hidden hard to reach bolt ( or it was for me anyways) above the steering column after you drop it or in that area. I searched for an hour for what was holding the dash in before I found that bolt. I didn't have any issues at all with brittle wiring. I just took my time on unhooking everything. I wasn't doing it for the heater core but replaced 2 actuators, blend doors, evaporator, and heater core while I had it out and apart just for the blend doors. I suspected my really slow A/C leak was in the evaporator so thats when I decided to just do everything while I had it out. The evaporator was the problem.
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post #7 of 45 Old 11-19-2019, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips, I did see that thread about the seal around the vents, which I need to do on my 04 also, guy even gave a p/n from oreillys. Only other problem I have, other than core, is recirc door or motor bushing is cracked. Jeep says it's a different motor that blend doors. I'm sure I'll find things broken when I get it apart.
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post #8 of 45 Old 11-19-2019, 08:57 AM
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I pulled everything I could off of and out of the dash to make it lighter and to get better visibility into exactly what and where I needed to unscrew or unfasten next. That included the radio, HVAC control and instrument cluster. I also removed the center console because why not. Your smileage may vary.

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post #9 of 45 Old 11-19-2019, 09:46 AM
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You cant remove the dash without removing the center console.
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post #10 of 45 Old 11-19-2019, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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I've had the heater hoses off the core and bypassed for awhile, I'm not really sure how to get the a/c lines off without removing the dryer. Really don't want to pull the battery tray, acm,fuse block etc if I don't have to, as the video showed. Any input? Is is possible to remove the expansion valve and just pull the evap with the plenum box?
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post #11 of 45 Old 11-19-2019, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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If I drop the steering wheel instead of removing it can the 4 or so plugs remain attached to the column? Is there enough slack in the wiring. If not all that's left to remove it is the through bolt at the joint, correct?
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post #12 of 45 Old 11-19-2019, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodgelodge View Post
I've had the heater hoses off the core and bypassed for awhile, I'm not really sure how to get the a/c lines off without removing the dryer. Really don't want to pull the battery tray, acm,fuse block etc if I don't have to, as the video showed. Any input? Is is possible to remove the expansion valve and just pull the evap with the plenum box?
I removed all that just to clean my engine bay. You can pull the hoses off after you remove the nut in the center it just pulls off.
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post #13 of 45 Old 11-19-2019, 10:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hodgelodge View Post
If I drop the steering wheel instead of removing it can the 4 or so plugs remain attached to the column? Is there enough slack in the wiring. If not all that's left to remove it is the through bolt at the joint, correct?
You need to fully unclip all plugs into the column as the dash harness is all 1 piece with the center console and all.
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post #14 of 45 Old 11-19-2019, 04:14 PM
Montreal300
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Pulled the column and slid the dash out the drivers door.
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post #15 of 45 Old 11-19-2019, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xcaliber81 View Post
You cant remove the dash without removing the center console.
Yeah, I thought so but I couldn't remember for sure. I DO remember removing it though regardless. I've had the center console out several times for various reasons.

Rage! Rage against the dying of the Jeep.

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