Passenger rear brake keeps seizing - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 08-10-2019, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
wjjeep19
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Passenger rear brake keeps seizing

Hey all!

I've been having issues for the past couple months with my jeep's passenger rear brake seizing.


I will be driving it and after about 30 minutes of driving the brake will start to seize. I really make a conscious effort to be light on the brakes as it's certainly harder to slow this Jeep down than my Ford fusion. But regardless of my efforts, it still happens. Rear brake locks up, the jeep struggles to even get up to 50mph, when letting off the gas the Jeep pulls to the right. By the time I get it home it's super hot, sometimes smoke, and you can smell it.

But every time, by the next morning, it frees up.

I had it at the shop and my mechanic said if it was a bad caliper they usually don't free up, they stay shut. So I had the brake pad and brake line replaced three weeks ago.

Everything seemed fine, I thought maybe it was fixed. Fast forward to a couple days ago and it seized back up. It didn't smoke but the jeep struggles to get up to 50mph, the passenger rear wheel well was very hot, and I could smell that same smell when it would previously sieze.

What could be the issue? What's concerning is that after it sits and cools down (usually overnight) it's no longer stuck. I'm starting to think it's a bad caliper since the brake and brake line were replaced.

Thank you!

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post #2 of 20 Old 08-10-2019, 09:57 AM
jtec
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you did change caliper and brake line using NEW parts?

This is a 3 Chanel system 2 independent front lines and 1 Chanel combined rear.
When system is dragging remove wheel and crack bleeder - did the stream of fluid squirt out as when under pressure?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #3 of 20 Old 08-10-2019, 11:43 AM
2oldjeeps
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seems like caliper since one line goes to both back huh.
you will destroy stuff if you drive it this way...

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post #4 of 20 Old 08-10-2019, 02:29 PM
Oktavius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjjeep19 View Post
... mechanic said if it was a bad caliper they usually don't free up, they stay shut. So I had the brake pad and brake line replaced ...
So mechanic said bad caliper but the caliper hasn't been replaced yet? Also, what brake line was replaced? There is the hard line that goes from the front to the rear, the flex hose that goes from the body to the rear axle, the hard lines that go to each wheel, and the two flex lines that go to each caliper. Lots of lines and hoses that may or may not have been replaced.

As others have said, it is something specific to that rear brake which narrows it down quite a bit. My guess would be the caliper or the flex hose that goes to that caliper.
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post #5 of 20 Old 08-10-2019, 03:07 PM
Frambo
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Rear calipers are prone to sticking on them... especially after a pad change
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post #6 of 20 Old 08-10-2019, 03:46 PM Thread Starter
wjjeep19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oktavius View Post
So mechanic said bad caliper but the caliper hasn't been replaced yet? Also, what brake line was replaced? There is the hard line that goes from the front to the rear, the flex hose that goes from the body to the rear axle, the hard lines that go to each wheel, and the two flex lines that go to each caliper. Lots of lines and hoses that may or may not have been replaced.



As others have said, it is something specific to that rear brake which narrows it down quite a bit. My guess would be the caliper or the flex hose that goes to that caliper.
No, he didn't think it was a bad caliper

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post #7 of 20 Old 08-10-2019, 05:04 PM
2oldjeeps
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2 flex hoses on rear axel? i dont think so

99wj,143,000 miles
00xj,177,000 miles
10hummer3,74,000 miles
98xj,130,000 miles
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post #8 of 20 Old 08-10-2019, 07:04 PM
opieward
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I got a new caliper for $35 after the core charge at Advance. It's cheap and easy to replace.
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post #9 of 20 Old 08-10-2019, 09:44 PM
CarlJH
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the pistons are phonelic plastic and over time from pushing on the pads they deform, and as they are a very close fit in the bore they stick when you push them back in for new pads. also the pad ears wear grooves in the carrier brackets, so when you put the new ones in they don't sit square and one of the ears will get stuck on the wear ridge when you release the brakes and stick on.
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post #10 of 20 Old 08-11-2019, 08:59 PM
Mattyjm
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Change the caliper first. If it still sticks, change the rubber hose to that caliper. If both rear calipers are dragging, the center hose is failing.

Either way, you need to repair something. Start with the obvious and work outward. Yes, after many years of use, calipers can and will wear out. So will brake hoses. NOT steel brake lines....They just rust through and leak, then it feels like you have very weak brakes.

If you knew you had a sticking caliper by the evidence of oddly worn pads on that side and dragging or pulling to that side, you should have started there first. Weird, I know, but being the owner of three different WJs, I've replaced WAY more calipers (front and rear) than failing hoses, though I have replaced a couple of those as well.

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post #11 of 20 Old 08-11-2019, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2oldjeeps View Post
2 flex hoses on rear axel? i dont think so
Yes, each caliper on the rear axle has a flex hose from the steel line that runs along the axle to the caliper. The steel line coming from the MC eventually changes to a rubber flex hose down the center of the WJ until it gets to a brass block on the rear axle. From there, two steel lines go in opposite directions to each wheel. They clip in behind each caliper and connect to a flex hose.

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post #12 of 20 Old 08-11-2019, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
wjjeep19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattyjm View Post
Change the caliper first. If it still sticks, change the rubber hose to that caliper. If both rear calipers are dragging, the center hose is failing.



Either way, you need to repair something. Start with the obvious and work outward. Yes, after many years of use, calipers can and will wear out. So will brake hoses. NOT steel brake lines....They just rust through and leak, then it feels like you have very weak brakes.



If you knew you had a sticking caliper by the evidence of oddly worn pads on that side and dragging or pulling to that side, you should have started there first. Weird, I know, but being the owner of three different WJs, I've replaced WAY more calipers (front and rear) than failing hoses, though I have replaced a couple of those as well.
Thanks, super helpful. I don't have the time to do it myself but it'll be going back in the shop.

I just wanted to know if people ever had the same issues I've had (brake sticking and then unsticking) and confirming my hunch that it's the caliper.

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post #13 of 20 Old 08-11-2019, 10:09 PM
2oldjeeps
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Originally Posted by 2oldjeeps View Post
2 flex hoses on rear axel? i dont think so

oops , brain clutch slipped!!! i never did back discs. the caliper has to move,obviously

99wj,143,000 miles
00xj,177,000 miles
10hummer3,74,000 miles
98xj,130,000 miles
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post #14 of 20 Old 08-14-2019, 07:03 AM
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The one time i saw something like this was on a friends motorcycle. He'd drive for several miles and the rear pads would start grabbing. Ended up being old Fluid that had too much moisture in it. Heat would expand the moisture and push out the piston. Fluid flush fixed it.

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post #15 of 20 Old 08-14-2019, 07:31 AM
Oktavius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T Hoff View Post
The one time i saw something like this was on a friends motorcycle. He'd drive for several miles and the rear pads would start grabbing. Ended up being old Fluid that had too much moisture in it. Heat would expand the moisture and push out the piston. Fluid flush fixed it.
That can definitely do it. Don't know exactly which brake lines the mechanic changed but if lines were changed, hopefully the mechanic bled the brakes. So might not be the issue here but could definitely cause the caliper to lock up when hot.
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