O2 Sensors - Diagnosis and Replacement - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 02-05-2015, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
ChrisHager
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O2 Sensors - Diagnosis and Replacement

Recently, a code scan revealed an O2 sensor issue.

P0158 (M)
O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
Oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above normal operating range.

Not long before this code appeared, I replaced my rear main seal and oil pan. I wondered if an O2 sensor's wiring found its way into the exhaust and melted. I crawled under and found the 2/2 sensor's insulation was crumbling off the wires, allowing them to short out.

I had researched and found that typically, you replace all of your O2 sensors at the same time. I was ready to spend the money but decided to run some tests first.

I hooked up my OBDII Bluetooth dongle, connected my Android Galaxy S5, and started up my Torque Pro application. After tinkering for a bit, I found the gauges necessary to watch live O2 data. Note: I hooked up an Actron scanner as well and verified these readings are accurate. If you have any type of scanner that will read live data, you should be good to go.

We already knew the 2/2 sensor is bad. My goal was to "inspect" the other 3 sensors (CA emissions). An O2 sensor will read roughly between 0 and 1 volts. At 0, the fuel mixture in the engine is lean, causing the exhaust to contain more oxygen. At 1, the fuel mixture is rich, causing the exhaust to contain less oxygen. At a 14.7:1 fuel/air mixture, the O2 sensors should be showing around 4.5 volts. The computer will use the voltage readings to adjust the fuel mixture. Since a drastic difference in an A/F mixture occurs between idle, cruise, and full throttle, we should see our O2 voltages working at a full range between 0(ish) and 1(ish).

Warmed up, idling in park.



Warmed up, regular driving at about 30 mph.



Warmed up, heavier throttle acceleration (1/2 - 3/4 throttle).



When coming back down to an idle, 1/1 would drop first. 1/2 seemed a little lazy, though that could have been caused by 2/2 not functioning. 2/1 falls after 1/1 and 1/2. All but 2/2 fluctuate at idle though 1/2 seemed a little slow to respond.

Since all but 2/2 did fluctuate, they can be regarded as functioning properly. Awesome! I only needed one O2 sensor.

Now for a small aside. Due to cost savings, you'll be tempted to pick up an O2 sensor from the local parts store. Since the tolerances in these sensors are not on par with what our WJs prefer, you'll actually spend more money and time replacing "new" sensors in order to find one that works, eventually ending up with a Mopar sensor. To save you the headache, I'll tell you this now: USE ONLY MOPAR O2 SENSORS! You can get this from your local dealer or better yet, contact our forum vendor Kolak. He supplies the proper parts at a great price.

I ordered through Kolak and received my sensor in short order.

Instructions:



Disconnect the battery, unplug the sensor, remove it from the exhaust (I used an O2 sensor socket), remove the heat shield, and separate the sensor from the vehicle.

The sensor plugs in towards the front of the vehicle.



Old heat shield on the oil pan studs.



The 2/2 sensor that caused the problems. Don't mind the electrical tape. I tried repairing the wiring just out of curiosity. I'll tell you, it didn't work!



New vs Old



New vs Old with New Head Shield and Palnuts



Just to be sure, compare the part numbers. Mine matched exactly.

The new sensor comes with anti-seize already applied. Simply remove the cap from the new sensor and install said sensor. Route the wiring as per instructions, install the heat shield, and secure it with the palnuts.

Installed with new heat shield in place.









Reconnect your battery and you're good to go!...



...Or are you?

I expected to be but then found this:



These three codes were immediately thrown. I was curious what was going on so I pulled up my application again to check it all out.



They were all pegging out at 1 volt (rich).

Afraid something was wrong with the new 2/2 sensor, I swapped it for the verified bad sensor.



The first three were still maxed out.

I should have caught it from the begging but after a long day, I wasn't thinking clearly. After some pondering and a bit of research, I found this, specifically #16 and #34.



I popped out the #16 15 amp fuse and immediately found it was blown. I installed a new fuse (and swapped the new sensor back in).



I did not replace the relay but figured I'd point out which one it is.



Started it up and was pleased to find all were fluctuating! Since they were all working, the codes were no longer showing as well.

I added a few more gauges to represent what type of driving I was doing.

Idle:



Coming to a stop:



Holding a slow speed:



Quickly accelerating (1/2 probably hadn't "rescanned" in the application yet):




There's my story! Hopefully the above can help others diagnose/replace their O2 sensor(s) as well as track down a possible issue like I had.



tebeve likes this.

~Chris
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post #2 of 12 Old 02-05-2015, 10:19 AM
mr312712
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Is this the same procedure for the V8 or just the I6 I know the sensors won't fit the V8.

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post #3 of 12 Old 02-05-2015, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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I assume the procedure would be the same for the 4.7. I imagine the only difference is the part numbers and the fact that the sensors will be in a bit different locations.

As a side note, the heat shield portion will differ depending on which sensor(s) you're replacing.

Here are a couple diagrams as well. I should have thought to add these in the original post.

4.0L



4.7L


~Chris
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post #4 of 12 Old 02-19-2017, 02:32 AM
Ognik
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I'm getting codes for all four of my sensors, oddly started after I installed a lift kit. I just purchased an obd2 scanner and will check as you did. Thank you for the write up.
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post #5 of 12 Old 02-19-2017, 01:18 PM
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After checking all four sensors read 0 in Torque app... I guess I need to purchase 4 new sensors...
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post #6 of 12 Old 02-21-2017, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Check that fuse as well, #16 in the PDC...

~Chris
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Quote:
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Quote:
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post #7 of 12 Old 02-24-2017, 06:14 PM
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X2 on what ChrisHager mentioned. Check that #16 10 Amp fuse before purchasing sensors. It's most likely blown.

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post #8 of 12 Old 02-25-2017, 11:59 AM
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That fuse is good. Currently the only sensor showing bad is bank 2/1.
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post #9 of 12 Old 02-26-2017, 08:11 AM
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I don't mean to hijack, but what is the program you have running the diagnostics? Is that on your phone?

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post #10 of 12 Old 02-27-2017, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
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I don't mean to hijack, but what is the program you have running the diagnostics? Is that on your phone?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Torque Pro, as stated in the OP.
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post #11 of 12 Old 02-27-2017, 06:42 AM
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Ahh. Don't know how I missed that, I feel dumb now. Back on topic..!

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post #12 of 12 Old 02-27-2017, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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As said, Torque Pro on Android. It was worth the $5 or whatever it cost to upgrade from the free version.

Right now, I run an expensive Bluetooth OBDII dongle that has a long cord attached made by PLX Kiwi. Looking at their website, it looks like they may not offer that version anymore. Back when I bought it, I spent the money to be sure it functioned properly. Nowadays, companies are offering cheaper versions that work just as well and don't have the long cord. I'm thinking about "upgrading" to a cheaper, tiny unit and keeping the corded one for the garage.

~Chris
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve_80 View Post
Weird, I didn't realize you could use vomit as coolant.
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android , bluetooth , diagnosis , o2 , replacement , sensor , torque pro

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