NEW Rear axle bearing dead after 5 miles - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 11-09-2020, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
OrangePower
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Angry NEW Rear axle bearing dead after 5 miles

Hi guys

I have problem and dont know how to solve it. Maybe someone had simmilar problem. Rear seals was shut on bot sides (D44) and also bearing was humming at 60mph so I bought new bearings and replace them.
This bearing was Maxgear 5901. Went to test ride and after 5 miles I hear wierd noise. Take the wheel of and see that disc is touching caliper bracket. I take out one shaft and I see that ring which is part of bearing is grinded.
Checked other side and the same thing was there. both rings was grinded and ewerywhere full of small metal parts.
I checked bearing and notice that are not right one. 5901 is for KIA so I ordered new one and hoped that they are different. Bearing came and they war the same dimensions with different numbers that are excact replacement for 2004 WJ with D44.
Drained axle, cleand ewerything, put ne seal, baaring on both shafts and press them in. There was aprox 1mm (0.04")of play on each side - shaft outside/inside movement or shaft play if may say so.
Went for a ride and again the same F****G story.
Both bearing shut.

I know how old ones was installed, both new sets was installed the same way.
It was like that



What the hell e`m I doing wrong?

I cant find any problem that can cause this kind of failure.
Only thing that is not perfect is bearing retainer in terms of outer edge is not perfectly straight. But this is small deformation. If I install old bearing inside axle with seal and plate it looks like there is prox 1mm of room between seal and plate.
Maybe seal can come out and in this case axle can move out with bearing being unseated which can cause bearing ring beaing grinded when axle is moving out/in.

The matter is I did not nouch bearing plates. I did not have chance do deform them in anyway.

Did anyone have this kind of problems?

Thank`s for any advice!


97 ZJ 5,2L 6" long arrms, D44&9" 35" - pure fun
2007 WH Overland lovered with H&R, 275/40/20 tires
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post #2 of 17 Old 11-09-2020, 10:49 AM
GmanWJ
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Recommend Timken SET31 and seal 2146. I installed them on my D44a. Find them here:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-set31
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tmk-2146


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post #3 of 17 Old 11-09-2020, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
OrangePower
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Some more info
- I prelubed seal with grease and bearing with oil
- cant understand how only bearing plate, seal and bearing ring are holding bearing in place and in this case also shaft inside axle. Was thinking that forces that are working on shafts out/in are much greater than seal and ring can hold before being deformed.
- cant understand how you dont neet to set any bearing preload in this case when you have conical bearing.

97 ZJ 5,2L 6" long arrms, D44&9" 35" - pure fun
2007 WH Overland lovered with H&R, 275/40/20 tires
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post #4 of 17 Old 11-09-2020, 11:06 AM
GmanWJ
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You should pack the bearing with grease. My Timken bearings were already loaded with grease when I opened the package.


It is hard to believe that the retainer plate is the only thing holding axle shaft in the tube. Almost scary, but that appears to be what keeps the axle together, so make sure it is tight. A small amount of blue thread locker might be a good idea.


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post #5 of 17 Old 11-09-2020, 05:54 PM
cDee63
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The locking collar behind the bearing is supposed to be holding the whole mess together. Stupid question, but was that collar pressed on? The only way it goes on is with a hyd press. EDIT... I do see what you mean now thinking about it, the retainer plate does seem to be the only thing keeping the axle from coming out of the housing. The collar slipping would create a loose condition which would trash things in short order for sure. Interesting problem for sure.

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Last edited by cDee63; 11-09-2020 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Light bulb moment.
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post #6 of 17 Old 11-09-2020, 07:12 PM
eljeepwj
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Im curious about this issue as this is the next thing i plan on doing to the jeep.
I bought the crown kit from summit, its on sale now https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-d35wjabk
the bearing is a timken as well

I wonder if the Maxgear that you have might be a little thinner than the factory bearing allowing for that 1mm of play in the axle shaft you mentioned. Can you post a picture of the busted bearing? Im guessing an incorrect loading from not being seated correctly in the housing.

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post #7 of 17 Old 11-10-2020, 02:26 AM
mak_v8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cDee63 View Post
The locking collar behind the bearing is supposed to be holding the whole mess together. Stupid question, but was that collar pressed on? The only way it goes on is with a hyd press. EDIT... I do see what you mean now thinking about it, the retainer plate does seem to be the only thing keeping the axle from coming out of the housing. The collar slipping would create a loose condition which would trash things in short order for sure. Interesting problem for sure.
No, the locking collar (forced on the axle) only keeps the bearing in place; the only things that keeps the axle in place are the 4 bolts of the retainer plate.
The axle is not pressed inside the tube, there only a little little forcing of the bearing inside the tube.
The 4 bolts seems to be enought, in other jeeps the axle is kept only by a C clip at the inner part of the axle.
It is strange, but tremendously true.

In my opinion, if there is play after assembling the axle, the reason is only because bearing or seal have wrong dimensions if compared to the original parts.

Grand Cherokee WJ 4.7 V8 HO. m.y. 2002
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post #8 of 17 Old 11-10-2020, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mak_v8 View Post
No, the locking collar (forced on the axle) only keeps the bearing in place; the only things that keeps the axle in place are the 4 bolts of the retainer plate.
The axle is not pressed inside the tube, there only a little little forcing of the bearing inside the tube.
The 4 bolts seems to be enought, in other jeeps the axle is kept only by a C clip at the inner part of the axle.
It is strange, but tremendously true.

In my opinion, if there is play after assembling the axle, the reason is only because bearing or seal have wrong dimensions if compared to the original parts.
Notice the big EDIT capital letters.

2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
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post #9 of 17 Old 11-10-2020, 09:12 AM
mak_v8
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Ops....
Sorry @cDee63 ... ...it has been an oversight; sometimes my old brain sends a 404 error...

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post #10 of 17 Old 11-10-2020, 09:27 AM
2oldjeeps
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the "donut"holds the bearing and axel in the car,
it has to be pressed on by machine shop.

99wj, 150,000 miles
00xj ,189,000 miles
10hummer3,76,000 miles
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post #11 of 17 Old 11-10-2020, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mak_v8 View Post
Ops....
Sorry @cDee63 ... ...it has been an oversight; sometimes my old brain sends a 404 error...
You and I both my friend.
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2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
1974 Ironhead Sportster, total custom
High speed, low drag
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post #12 of 17 Old 11-11-2020, 10:47 AM
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Have a little info I just came across replacing mine ( I am in the middle of doing it) that may shed some light on the OP's problem. Seems the retaining plate can become slightly bent through operation not enough to be noticed. The inner diameter area will bow out slightly unnoticed to the eye but it allows the preload on the bearing to go away will trash a new bearing in short order. I was told either bang it back straight or replace it. I ended up getting new one but I will tack weld the studs in seeing I just got done cutting the old one off due to one of the studs spinning in the plate... !^%$#^$!!!
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2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
1974 Ironhead Sportster, total custom
High speed, low drag
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post #13 of 17 Old 11-11-2020, 10:30 PM
Bigrigr
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When I do these axle bearings, i replace the retaining plates at the same time. They really arent that expensive, and they are readily available. If you are positive you have the correct bearings, then those bent retaining plates have to be the culprit.
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post #14 of 17 Old 11-14-2020, 07:19 AM
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We get lot's of WJ's in the shop with failed rear axle bearing / seal repair attempts, they all have one thing in common ~aftermarket parts not in spec.

Dana / Spicer were the OEM supplier to Mopar, the Spicer part numbers and a Google search will get you what you need for both sides of the axle for about a hundred bucks search for Dana Spicer 566075 35938 76466 49766.
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post #15 of 17 Old 11-14-2020, 08:37 AM
JGCJeep
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I too would guess retainer plate if it wasn’t replaced.

Also, I can’t visualize it happening, but could putting the bearing on backwards cause it to seat wrong?
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