Need "Hockey Puck" lift advice. Please help if you have experience/knowledge DIY! Thx - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 7 Old 06-22-2021, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
mxxx_rooster
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Need "Hockey Puck" lift advice. Please help if you have experience/knowledge DIY! Thx

Hey All!
I have a 2000 WJ and decided to just do an inexpensive lift at this time but I do have a few questions. Stock, my WJ looks great - the front and rear are level, and all I want to do at this point is give it a 2 to 2.5 lift. My first question is: will my current shocks still work? Or do I need to purchase longer shocks? Some kits come with only the spacers and others include shocks. My current shocks are Kayaba's and are fairly new and work well, and I'd like to keep them! But I don't know if the "hockey puck spacers" raise it below the mounts so the shocks still work or if I need to add length to the shocks because of the spacers.
Secondly, I've noticed that there are some kits that have a 3" front and 2.5" rear. I like the vehicle's "stance" as it is so I'm also assuming that an even 2.5 front and 2.5 rear will keep it that way. Am I correct? I have seen some vehicles in which the front is raised higher and I don't care much for the look, but is there are practical reason for this?
And finally, I have Quadra Trak, and there's been a bunch of posts and info about lift problems with this setup. Any experienced advice??? Even the Rough Country kit on Amazon states this:
How come they say the will not fit AWD models, yet many people have done it? Do they create excessive wear on driveline components or what?
Answer:
Quite a few of the AWD models came with the crappy rzeppa joint on one or both ends of the front driveshaft, those don't like even a little lift. If you have a V8 and AWD, which most were, there is a good chance you have a double cardan at the transfer case and a regular u-joint at the axle, especially the later ones. Those work with a lift, I have a 3" on my 04 Limited with AWD and the stock double cardan with no issues at all see less
By Charles Merritt on June 10, 2019


Question:
I have a 2000 grand cherokee and it has the quadra-trek 4wd system... anyone know if it fits that model? not sure if quadra-trek is considered awd?
Answer:
It fits the model, what u need to check is your driveshaft it will fit no matter what, if u have u joint type driveshaft you will have no problems otherwise you can end up with driveshaft vibrations
By Gro on December 30, 2016

Any input?
THANK YOU ALL for reading this and anything you can tell me!!!!! Appreciate ya'll!!!!

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post #2 of 7 Old 06-23-2021, 07:34 AM
smokeyyank
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Yes you need longer shocks. Since you have a 00 you more than likely will need to upgrade your driveshaft to a later model at the least.

04 WJ, 4.7HO
3" IRO lift, fastman TB, 32s, lunchbox rear 242HD, 3" exhaust
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post #3 of 7 Old 06-23-2021, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
mxxx_rooster
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Thanks Smokeyyank! I now have a place to start!
Appreciate the response!
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post #4 of 7 Old 06-23-2021, 10:24 AM
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Don't know whether 'shock absorber extenders' are a viable option for you, having just put that into google, seems there are quite a few on the market.

I do agree that your Jeep looks pretty nice as it is, so why do you want to lift it? If you ain't going to play off road is it worth it - as replacement standard parts generally cost less those associated with lifting? As a 2000 model year there are likely to be many worn suspension steering parts that ideally need to be replaced if lifting. It's pretty easy to take a nice riding vehicle and change it into a handling monster should you not make all the changes compatible.

This thread, that can be found above, is a good read - https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310...thread-314066/ . The first point in the fifth post is very sound advice.
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post #5 of 7 Old 06-23-2021, 11:38 AM
underscore
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At least if the lift causes any unpleasantness it's easy enough to just yank it out again, there's not much to lose aside from a couple hours work by trying it out (assuming you're not looking at a mountain of rust under there).



Quote:
Originally Posted by mxxx_rooster View Post
My first question is: will my current shocks still work? Or do I need to purchase longer shocks?
If you're not offroading you might be fine with your stock shocks since you're unlikely to really be drooping the suspension much. I left stock size shocks in my XJ with a 2" lift and they were fine even on some mild trails. They're easy enough to swap out after the fact so you haven't got anything to lose by trying what you have first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mxxx_rooster View Post
Secondly, I've noticed that there are some kits that have a 3" front and 2.5" rear. I like the vehicle's "stance" as it is so I'm also assuming that an even 2.5 front and 2.5 rear will keep it that way. Am I correct? I have seen some vehicles in which the front is raised higher and I don't care much for the look, but is there are practical reason for this?
If you're adding more weight to the front end with a bumper or winch you may want more lift up front to counter the sag they create. Otherwise it's just preference. I put in 2.5" spacers off eBay all around and it sits just as evenly as it did before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mxxx_rooster View Post
And finally, I have Quadra Trak, and there's been a bunch of posts and info about lift problems with this setup. Any experienced advice???
Have you checked which driveshaft you actually have at the moment. If it has ujoints you're fine, if it has any Rzeppa joints people like to replace them with a double cardan. After having gone through the hassle of the swap myself, it honestly seems a bit of an overblown issue. If the Rzeppa joint is fairly new and has an intact boot it should handle the lift fine, especially for on road use. You can't just glance at it from the side to check the boot though, you need to be looking down the length of the driveshaft to see all of it properly.

What I think is really happening most of the time is the boot and grease are long gone and the joint will be failing at some point soon no matter what, but it's still doing okay because it's been at the same angle since the boot tore so everything is still running on surfaces that have stayed cleanish due to use. Then the lift goes in, the angle changes, and now the joint is using surfaces that haven't been kept clean by use and are covered in crud. This of course trashes them much more quickly, the joint fails, people blame the joint style for the failure and not that they were driving around on a scabby old part that was due to die soon anyways.

That's just my thinking anyways, by the time I realized I was checking the boot incorrectly I had already bought the parts for the swap and had the front end apart. If I was doing it again I'd just rebuilt the rear joint for $40 and leave it alone.
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post #6 of 7 Old 06-24-2021, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
mxxx_rooster
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Thank you all for the great information! I spent what seemed like hours on this forum trying to gather info and never ran across the awesome post HampshireWJ linked to - Thanks!!! And I really appreciate the info and advice from Underscore! When I get a break from "Da Kids" I'll check out my driveshaft/joints and get a better idea of what I'll be in for.
THANKS AGAIN, everyone!!!!
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post #7 of 7 Old 06-29-2021, 01:43 PM
Jeepy-Col
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I have done the 2" lift on my 02 WJ (2.7crd $7 per gallon can't afford petrol). The drive is great and I have had no issues at all. It's not massively different on the road than before. The whole swap took me about 75 minutes and I like the look. A mechanic I know swears that the 2" lift doesn't need any new shocks or changes to the setup at all - he has checked my alignment since and it's all fine.
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