My WJ Gas Tank Lift LOTS OF PICS - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 43 Old 01-18-2017, 09:10 AM
akinshake
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Ok, so I have two questions I hope you can help me with. I just welded in my new floor, and my skid is finished, hypothetically, and ready to go back in. I have cut and welded in the hole through my frame rail and

1) the gas filler breather line, I can kind of see something that you did a new line, as it appears to have much more flexibility and length compared to the stock one, and it seems that you run both hose through the 2.5" hole in the frame rail. Do you have more info or pictures on what how you did the breather line.

2) do you have, can you get some quick measurements of the access panel, since I am doing most of this project myself, It would be so much easier if I cut the access panel before I raise the tank and skid. Just some quick lengths and reference points be be a huge help. I also plan on doing an access panel over the tank inlets to allow ease of connecting my hoses once i raise the tank.

Thank you for all of your help thus far!


99 4.0 Laredo Selectrac, 6.5" IRO long arms front and rear, 35" KM2, 17" Moab JK wheels,IRO transfer case skid, Clayton D44A truss, 4:56 gears and LSD axle swap.
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post #32 of 43 Old 02-24-2017, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Wanted to send an update concerning the exhaust; the only times I've been able to talk with anybody who's done this tank raise, they've just cut the exhaust short and left it as is. The reason is the stock exhaust routing takes the same space the front passenger side of the gas tank skid needs when it's raised. I cut mine short as well as a temporary fix but just got the time to install the Kolak 3" exhaust kit that's been sitting in my garage for awhile.

With the help of some friends we cut and re-welded Kolak's custom bent exhaust and made it ....more custom, if that's even a thing. You wouldn't think 3" is that much bigger than 2.5" but let me tell you it is, the routing was tricky but we worked it out nicely, and kept an emphasis on keeping it tucked up as high as possible.

I'm not big on needing my exhaust to sound tough; mine was rusted to crap and cut up, so I went with an upgrade. If I ended up getting a few horses out of it great, it may be more of a mental thing but when you hit the gas it feels (and sounds) like I have a turbo kickin' in, so it is a bit fun to drive, without sounding too crazy. I have the Flowmaster 70 and am very happy with the selection.









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post #33 of 43 Old 02-25-2017, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by sdjp View Post
Wanted to send an update concerning the exhaust; the only times I've been able to talk with anybody who's done this tank raise, they've just cut the exhaust short and left it as is. The reason is the stock exhaust routing takes the same space the front passenger side of the gas tank skid needs when it's raised. I cut mine short as well as a temporary fix but just got the time to install the Kolak 3" exhaust kit that's been sitting in my garage for awhile.

With the help of some friends we cut and re-welded Kolak's custom bent exhaust and made it ....more custom, if that's even a thing. You wouldn't think 3" is that much bigger than 2.5" but let me tell you it is, the routing was tricky but we worked it out nicely, and kept an emphasis on keeping it tucked up as high as possible.

I'm not big on needing my exhaust to sound tough; mine was rusted to crap and cut up, so I went with an upgrade. If I ended up getting a few horses out of it great, it may be more of a mental thing but when you hit the gas it feels (and sounds) like I have a turbo kickin' in, so it is a bit fun to drive, without sounding too crazy. I have the Flowmaster 70 and am very happy with the selection.









That's the cleanest underbody on any jeep I've seen.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
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post #34 of 43 Old 02-25-2017, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Double E,

Apologize for the delay, never got any notifications from JF of your post, only saw it when I updated pics last night.

I used brush on Rustoleum protective enamel, and you're right it's thick, really nice stuff. I happened to randomly grab it from my garage because I wanted the metal to be black to match my interior, and I didn't want to use spray paint inside my cabin. So it ended up being a lucky grab but I'm really happy with how it turned out.



Here's a link; http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleu...9504/100160860
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post #35 of 43 Old 02-25-2017, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akinshake View Post
Ok, so I have two questions I hope you can help me with. I just welded in my new floor, and my skid is finished, hypothetically, and ready to go back in. I have cut and welded in the hole through my frame rail and

1) the gas filler breather line, I can kind of see something that you did a new line, as it appears to have much more flexibility and length compared to the stock one, and it seems that you run both hose through the 2.5" hole in the frame rail. Do you have more info or pictures on what how you did the breather line.

2) do you have, can you get some quick measurements of the access panel, since I am doing most of this project myself, It would be so much easier if I cut the access panel before I raise the tank and skid. Just some quick lengths and reference points be be a huge help. I also plan on doing an access panel over the tank inlets to allow ease of connecting my hoses once i raise the tank.

Thank you for all of your help thus far!
1) I replaced the gas filler hose, the biggest widest one gasoline goes in; with the aftermarket right angled hose as I've pictured. For the breather line itself, the one that ends with the white plastic plug; I had replaced it awhile back when I was re-doing the whole charcoal canister system (I was getting check engine codes for leaks and it was due to cracked hoses). The extra length was because I had tucked the charcoal canister up in the quarter panel (now it's against the unibody above the a-arm). So for the tank raise I just re-routed everything smartly, and have the breather hose running through my frame rail hole and sits vertically up on the inside of the wheel well, just outside of the coil spring. I'll post some pics shortly, the WJ isn't at my house right now.

in Red; There's 2 breather hoses and I confused them initially when first answering your question. This is the one I have sitting next to my coil spring. It's fat one with the black cap comes from the charcoal canister EVAP system.



Now to the one you're referring to; I ran it through the tunnel I made through the unibody and just sip-tied it to the gas filler tube. The 3rd (small hose) is an overflow drain.



2) Here's a couple of pics with some measurements, based off some anchor points inside the Jeep. I tried to get some measurements based off the unibody frame rail but the tank is up there so high I can't get an angle to see the panel from the underside, and I kept banging my head against sharp metal things. Anyhow, I would strongly advise you cut the hole when it's in place; can't really see a downside to this where one person would be a detriment; just drill a pilot hole (or small cutout as I did) in the top right quadrant of the steel (hard to make a mistake doing this, you'll be cutting out such a large section), then seeing the fuel pump you can easily make your exact measurements and use a dremel tool or grinder to cut it.

This is based off the passenger side rear most tie down. Keep in mind my cover has a 1-1.5" overlap over the hole I cut.


This is based off the passenger side lid lip that the big spare tire carpet cover thing hooks into.

Last edited by sdjp; 02-26-2017 at 08:46 AM. Reason: UPDATED
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post #36 of 43 Old 02-25-2017, 01:18 PM
87thhunter
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That's such a nice rust free jeep....darn Michigan and there salt....

Oh yeah this was about a gas tank, i got lost in how clean and rust free that beauty is. Very nice job looks awesome! write up was very nice!
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post #37 of 43 Old 02-25-2017, 06:07 PM
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Awesome write-up!! Will be using this for notes this spring! It makes such as drastic difference to the rear-end!
Random question, what's your tire set up? Some nice looking tires!

It's not the Destination so much as the Journey!! - Cpt. Jack Sparrow

2002 Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7 HO
2" IRO Spring Lift w/Bilstein 5100s 245/75/R17 Goodyear Armour Shield



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post #38 of 43 Old 02-25-2017, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome write-up!! Will be using this for notes this spring! It makes such as drastic difference to the rear-end!
Random question, what's your tire set up? Some nice looking tires!
Thank you, they are Mickey Thompson Baja Claw TCC 305/65/R17 (32.6x 12) on JK Moabs with 1.5" Spidertrax spacers. I used to run JK takeoffs and really love them on the WJ but after I opened up all the wheel wells I had enough room to move to a bigger tire while keeping suspension the same. They've been working out great. My suspension is a 2" BDS with a 3/4" spacer up front to level due to 4.7L, winch, and bumper; new isolators top and bottom all around (makes a height difference for sure), bilstein 5100's, rear Addco sway bar, and JKS disconnects up front.



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post #39 of 43 Old 02-25-2017, 07:43 PM
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Nice!! Did you do a write-up on your wheel wells?

It's not the Destination so much as the Journey!! - Cpt. Jack Sparrow

2002 Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7 HO
2" IRO Spring Lift w/Bilstein 5100s 245/75/R17 Goodyear Armour Shield



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post #40 of 43 Old 02-25-2017, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Nice!! Did you do a write-up on your wheel wells?
Not yet, I've been asked by a few guys so I think I'll do a write up. By no means am I claiming to be a pro, I just researched all the previous write-ups and took what I thought was the best techniques, then did a little of my own thing when the time called for it. Hopefully the pics and insights can help people like its helped me.
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post #41 of 43 Old 02-25-2017, 08:10 PM
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Yea same approach I'm planning on. I've read a few already. So when the time comes, which should be this spring, after the long arm goes on and new tires/rims are bought so I can see how much I need to trim out. Was thinking of once the area is opened up to clear bigger tires, making wheel well liners from sheet metal to give it a finished look inside there.
But anyway...lol.....would love to see your write up on it. You do clean work and seem detailed oriented like I am.

It's not the Destination so much as the Journey!! - Cpt. Jack Sparrow

2002 Grand Cherokee Overland 4.7 HO
2" IRO Spring Lift w/Bilstein 5100s 245/75/R17 Goodyear Armour Shield



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post #42 of 43 Old 09-21-2020, 01:51 PM
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Night shots of the tank installed. Pay no attention to the exhaust; it's been damaged and is being replaced. I haven't mounted all the hoses either.

I put everything together, put about 2 gallons of gas in the tank, had my other Jeep jumping the WJ (it'd been sitting a LONG while), so the starter and battery were working perfectly but all it does is crank the starter without starting up; obvious it's not getting fuel. I primed the gas pump the only way I know how.....turn the key on (without starting) for a few seconds, then back off, then back on a few seconds, a bunch of times, then eventually try to start the WJ. I was trying so much I felt like I was going to burn out my starter so if anybody has any tips please chime in. In the meantime I'll research this too, some initial searches says that it could possibly be sediment in the tank clogging either the fuel pump or the fuel filter?
Was there a resolution to the fuel issue you had?

V/R
Jason
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post #43 of 43 Old 09-21-2020, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Yes there was, and it was well documented. I haven’t been on here in awhile but I know all my pics either got dropped with the photobucket drama and maybe some posts too. Long story short it was a linked line caused from the relocation. I used needle nose pliers to round out the link again. It’s been great for years since. Didn’t even visually look that bad.
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