My WJ Gas Tank Lift LOTS OF PICS - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 43 Old 10-15-2016, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
sdjp
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HarryH3,

Great idea!, all too easy to add a buffer piece of hose around the tunnel. Will do!

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post #17 of 43 Old 10-15-2016, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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The WJ is running perfectly!

losttech was right, it was a kinked fuel line. I suppose that's what I get for being anxious to start it up at night without inspecting everything first. So above you'll see I had reserved a spot for the fuel filter re-location because when I test fitted the skid the forward-most wall of the skid made contact with the fuel filter so I had unbolted it from the unibody, placed it forward of the bulkhead and figured I'd work out the new location after everything was in place. What I didn't know was placing it forward kinked the line. It doesn't look too bad in the pic but it was twisted and enough to prevent it from running, once I untwisted it and used a pair of needle-nose pliers to give some structure to the hose again, it started right up. That's a really sensitive spot; right where the plastic hose meets the metal tube.



This is where I relocated the fuel filter to; exactly on the opposite side of the unibody bulkhead (towards front of vehicle) where it was originally mounted. I had to twist the fuel filter around in the mounting bracket and at first I wasn't even sure it it was supposed to move, but with a decent amount of pressure it slid smoothly. Then I just bent the wing part of the bracket in both my hands and folded it using kentucky windage, then bolted it in. The lines all took some massaging and I tidied up some of the other lines, ziptie-ing them and putting loom on anything I thought might rub.



Then I finished my access door; I measured around the hole and marked appropriately so I knew I had an equal amount of overlap on all sides when I placed the cover on and couldn't see the hole anymore. Then I put down a 55 year silicon sealant, drilled holes, put in shallow sheet metal screws with washers. Then I finished it up by sealing the outer edges once more, just to help guarantee no fumes would be coming through. The OEM spare tire cover goes on flush. The inside is done!





Some other guys have done some great stuff with welding in hinges and bolts from the underside. I'll be honest with you I was over welding at this point in time and just wanted to get the tank up in place. Still I'm not one to let laziness kick in with projects and am completely happy with this method. I suppose if I was to constantly open and close this panel the screws would start to loosen within their holes so I could just step up the width of the screw if it ever comes to that; hopefully I won't ever be accessing it that much! As it is I only drilled a very small hole so the screws had a lot of metal to bite into, my Dewalt 18 volt was working to put them in. I will say this method is very secure, flush, and low profile.
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post #18 of 43 Old 10-17-2016, 01:40 PM
Jerry Bransford
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Nice job Brian, glad getting the engine running just took finding & fixing that hose kink.

On adding that additional hose layer to help protect the fuel hose where it passes under the opening in the aluminum... is there no way to get to the opening in the aluminum to add a little more clearance? Another layer around the hose is good but with that aluminum edge so close, that additional layer will only temporarily protect the hose until the aluminum wears past that additional but still soft layer of hose.

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post #19 of 43 Old 10-17-2016, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Nice job Brian, glad getting the engine running just took finding & fixing that hose kink.

On adding that additional hose layer to help protect the fuel hose where it passes under the opening in the aluminum... is there no way to get to the opening in the aluminum to add a little more clearance? Another layer around the hose is good but with that aluminum edge so close, that additional layer will only temporarily protect the hose until the aluminum wears past that additional but still soft layer of hose.
Thanks Jerry. What I've decided to do is put a wide piece of plastic loom over the top of the hose, running the entire length of the exhaust pipe that acts as a tunnel through the unibody, its super easy to just slip it in and I will check it regularly for signs of wear. At the first sign of wear I will drop the entire sha-bang (steel bumper, gas tank, hitch) and re-work it by either shortening the hose (making the right angle turn even closer to the tank) or by widening the tunnel upward. We're talking less than a 1/4" (maybe even 3/16"s) to be home free.

Maybe I can get a good angle on it with a non-sharp dowel and whack the unibody upward in that spot with a mallet? The unibody moves much easier than most people would think. After my accident I had plenty of manipulating the unibody to do.

The hose does briefly make contact exactly at that one inside rail of unibody but there isn't what I would call any pressure of the hose up against the metal, it kind of rests against it. Take a look at the photo of the new hose, it has that downward angle to it, so right from the point that you see in the inside pic of the tunnel it curves down and comes out the other side on the bottom of the tunnel.....so I got that going for me. That part doesn't connect due to the upward curve of the hose as it connects to the metal filler tube.



Understanding that vibrations will always be a constant, I'm hopeful that because the skid is bolted only inches away to the unibody that those two sections won't be at great odds to flex against one another. As I said I will closely monitor it. Now I'm going to be thinking about that all the time! Better to be safe than sorry. Hey guys drill that hole towards the upper third of the unibody when you do yours and you'll be rockin'!
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post #20 of 43 Old 10-17-2016, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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brainstorming; I could just slip the OEM tow hitch in on top of the gas tank, that would buy me the height of the hitch's metal bracket, which is beefy. That might just do it.
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post #21 of 43 Old 10-17-2016, 05:38 PM
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Nice work. Why don't you cut an access panel for the hoses instead of dropping everything?

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's

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post #22 of 43 Old 10-17-2016, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Nice work. Why don't you cut an access panel for the hoses instead of dropping everything?
I'm not sure I'm comfortable cutting anything with the gas tank (and gas) being so close and I really don't want to have to cut away more of the unibody than I have to. I'm pretty sure I'm going to suck it up and slip the hitch in on top of the fuel skid then jack it in place; if it still appears to touch I'll lower everything and just trim the hose a 1/4". End of any possible problems. It's really no big deal, will just take some patience. I was just really excited at moving on from this project because I would have the WJ running again.
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post #23 of 43 Old 10-17-2016, 06:53 PM
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No cutting the unibody. You cut the new plate to access the hoses from the top.

Yes, unless you generally have good luck, I wouldn't recommend cutting the panel with the tank in place.

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's

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post #24 of 43 Old 10-17-2016, 07:57 PM
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Glad I helped you some and you got it working
This forum and the people here have helped me so many times and helped me become a halfway decent backyard mechanic great place great people.
I do love the way everything came out if I had a garage and more time I would love to be able to learn to fab up stuff like that although I did manage to make a set of seat repair brackets that turned out really nice with the help of my friend turned my broken front seat into something that wont every break again well at least at the base.
Hehe my fab skill lol but they work great https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...think-3874497/
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post #25 of 43 Old 10-17-2016, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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No cutting the unibody. You cut the new plate to access the hoses from the top.

Yes, unless you generally have good luck, I wouldn't recommend cutting the panel with the tank in place.

Oh ok, you mean cut from the top inside the cabin. Yeah I had decided not to do that because I didn't want to take up any interior space as I'm always sliding something (bikes, coolers, strollers, etc.) in or out of the back. Knowing my luck I would snag that little compartment every time. Besides the hose I now have wouldn't work with that method; it heads straight out to the side instead of up. I believe my current set-up is really fine but some have mentioned the contact point to be extra safe. In reality I don't think it's any different than the amount of pressure the stock setup had when the filler hose rested on the metal gap of the gas skid on its way up to the metal filler tube. But I appreciate all the interest and great thoughts to make sure this MOD lasts a long, long time.

I originally bought this WJ for my dad when I had the ability to do something nice to say thank you for a lifetime of him taking care of me, and years later when I started a family of my own he re-gifted it to me to help out. It would be cool to have my small kids thrashing trails in this classic Jeep sometime in the distant future!
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post #26 of 43 Old 10-17-2016, 09:18 PM
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I originally bought this WJ for my dad when I had the ability to do something nice to say thank you for a lifetime of him taking care of me, and years later when I started a family of my own he re-gifted it to me to help out. It would be cool to have my small kids thrashing trails in this classic Jeep sometime in the distant future!
You're a good man Brian.

When you have a choice, buy American made.
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post #27 of 43 Old 01-16-2017, 06:43 PM
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[QUOTE=sdjp;36585994]The WJ is running perfectly! losttech was right, it was a kinked fuel line. I suppose that's what I get for being anxious to start it up at night without inspecting everything first. So above you'll see I had reserved a spot for the fuel filter re-location because when I test fitted the skid the forward-most wall of the skid made contact with the fuel filter so I had unbolted it from the unibody, placed it forward of the bulkhead and figured I'd work out the new location after everything was in place. What I didn't know was placing it forward kinked the line. It doesn't look too bad in the pic but it was twisted and enough to prevent it from running, once I untwisted it and used a pair of needle-nose pliers to give some structure to the hose again, it started right up. That's a really sensitive spot; right where the plastic hose meets the metal tube.

Quote]

I am in the process of doing the tank tuck to my WJ and in the process of of it all.While disconnecting everything I kinked the same line at the same place. So while I still have the tank out, wanted to get that issue fixed before I put everything back in there. Did you do anything besides work the shape of that hose back to normal with your pliers and everything is still good?

99 4.0 Laredo Selectrac, 6.5" IRO long arms front and rear, 35" KM2, 17" Moab JK wheels,IRO transfer case skid, Clayton D44A truss, 4:56 gears and LSD axle swap.
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post #28 of 43 Old 01-17-2017, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
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Yes for me that's all it took, been driving perfectly. I've driven it about 2000 miles since and have gone off-road a couple times, so it's been bounced around a good bit. My fuel filler hose is good to go as well.

If it's not bent to the point it's torn, re-shaping it should work just fine. If you have time, really planning out how to run the lines and modifying them (shortening them) would make for a nice efficient fit. Mine is pretty good, but as you probably know you have to add some bends here and there to use up the extra length. I did cut some of my rubber hoses to fit and that saved me tons of needless routing.
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post #29 of 43 Old 01-17-2017, 06:10 AM
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I dropped the tank on mine back in October to replace the fuel pump and filter. The level of suck in doing this is high since the shroud is oddly shaped and not balanced by putting the jack in the middle. However, it's not as bad as ripping the dash out in order to replace a $50 heater core. Great work on this. I hope I NEVER have to use this write up but, glad it's here for reference just in case.
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post #30 of 43 Old 01-17-2017, 07:17 AM
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sd,
What was the black paint-like material you used on the interior sheet metal? Is that just the POR15?
It looked a LOT more substantial than just paint...
Got a link to it?

'04 Freedom Edition HO & '04 Overland HO (previous '00 Laredo 4.7)
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