My WJ Gas Tank Lift LOTS OF PICS - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 43 Old 10-10-2016, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
sdjp
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My WJ Gas Tank Lift LOTS OF PICS

I'd like to say thanks to all the other Jeepers who posted similar pics/ info that gave me the courage to do this myself. Most posts were very helpful, however for me the dead spot was how to patch everything back up, how to seal it, and where to cut the hole for the fuel pump access door. So I took pics along the way. If you have questions, ask, and I'll do my best to help you out.

*I don't know how to put captions next to each photo so just follow along.

Wake up at 4:30 am wanting to do this project for a long time. I recently got a welder and had just done the wheel well mods.

Go big!

Daylight comes, wife walks out and says, "What the %^&*!?"

Drill hole for filler tube. (read all of the post before drilling, there are some lessons learned below). I chose to go with a 2.5" hole, capped with 2.5" exhaust, that was welded and sanded.

To fill the void I chose to go with 14 gauge steel and am very happy that I did. I got a 34" x 34" (measurements I wanted) piece of cold rolled steel cut for me locally for $50. 14 gauge is 3.125lbs a square foot, so probably about 25lbs after I did my trimming. And it's PLENTY strong, it doesn't flex after it's all welded up.

When fitting it in place you can choose to trim the sides down to 32-33" inches but I chose to slightly grind down the shock mounts (the circle on the inside of unibody in the pic) just a smudge to fit it in, plus the mounts helped hold it up for me. This size gave me a clean finish and a great surface to weld up against.

I have a pretty nice 21" jack but had to pile stuff very high to get the metal into place.

I used a sharpie marker to mark the contour of the back of the unibody to cut it to fit. I was very conservative by cutting less than I thought I should, just in case my math or marking weren't right. They were this time but I've been fooled before.

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post #2 of 43 Old 10-10-2016, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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You can see in the pic of the WJ, look at the gas skid, I was holding onto the sides of the skid because i didn't want to cut off too much and be screwed. You won't be but it just felt weird taking away so much metal. You have to trim that skid ALOT, there are all manner of things that interrupt it from getting in place. Be patient, it's going to look and work great (that's what I kept telling myself).

Just before tacking the skid into place (You will have the cut section of skid with the mounting bracket fully bolted in on both sides) I used a level in 3 different spots (front of skid, middle, rear) to make sure all was even, then tacked it. No turning back now. I then proceeded to weld the crap out of it.

Then I put my 14 gauge steel flooring in place by jacking it up with enough pressure to make a good seal, and tacked it in place. Be aware of the stock spare tire opening thingy (thing you remove to get to spare tire) if you still plan to use that (I do), it has a small depression to it, meaning if you make your flooring perfectly flat it won't sit right. I sanded mine down a bit and have just enough of a depression to my flooring, but it's pretty darn flat. It all fits well.

I then stitch welded the 14 gauge flooring from the top all around in a circle and underneath all around. In areas where I didn't have intimate contact I used a jack with a piece of 4x4" to push the flooring up into the vehicle and tacked it. Then both above and below I used Locktite premium fast grab adhesive (caulk gun) to seal it up all the way around. I used a puddy knife inside the cab to make a nice edge. I've had a great experience with the Locktite when doing my wheel well mod so it was an easy choice for this.

Then I wiped the metal with leftover POR-15 metal prep I had, and brush painted the inside of the cab with Rustoleum, and I primered and painted the bottom. I had just done a complete underside POR-15 of my WJ and had some left over to use.

The Fuel Pump access door. I was going to replace my perfectly working fuel pump because the tank was already dropped but when looking for a good replacement everyone says Bosch but then many reviews has it failing miserably, and I didn't want to shell out close to $300 for a MOPAR part to replace something that wasn't broken. So putting a door in was the compromise. As an aside fuel pumps fail because they get ran dry too many times. As a whole this is one thing that Chrysler has done well, the gas light comes on when you have still have plenty of gas, but don't drive like that for long before filling up.

I looked at pics of others who have done this, then did some math, made my marks (the faint black line), made my mark where my gut told me it would be (the orange), then cut a pilot hole to scout things out and found out I was wrong, but my gut had me in the right direction. I adjusted (orange with squiggles) and cut a 10 x10" hole, leaving enough room to get a spanner wrench in when it's time to replace the pump. I bought a 12" x12" piece of 16 gauge steel (they didn't have 14 but it's plenty strong) at Home Depot and will RTV it in place, and have 8 #10 sheet metal screws to secure it down. I've heard of guys putting hinges and welding bolts from the bottom but with my tight clearance I think this will be the best way.
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post #3 of 43 Old 10-10-2016, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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and more pics
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post #4 of 43 Old 10-10-2016, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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So when I did what I thought might be my final test fit of the skid and tank, I learned the sad truth that I tucked it up too much for the OEM filler hose; I had accounted properly for enough space but not for the bend that hose needs in order not to crimp.

Several lessons can be learned;

1. I drilled through my unibody with a 2.5" hole in the center, if I had gone towards the upper third it might have worked without kinking as bad as it is. You can even drill at an angle to help with the hose contour if your fancy. The 2.5" diameter works perfectly for me as I had already moved my charcoal canister and hoses to an alternate location for clearance on the rear passenger side.

2. You don't have to tuck it quite as high as I did. I figure if it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing. I've seen guys still tuck it as high as I did and modify the inside of their storage area to address the bend in the hose. That works but I didn't want to do that, I use my cargo area way too much.

3. My solution was to replace the 15 year old piece of rubber hose. I've ordered a gas filler hose that has a 90 degree bend in it. The opening to the gas tank is 1.25" however be aware that the gas filler tube (what you put gas in at the station) is only 1", so I also got a 1.25" to 1" reducer. I think this will be a perfect solution and look forward to putting it on in a couple days. I will update how it goes.

All items I got below are from http://www.fillernecksupply.com/ . I am not associated with them. As you probably know, don't use PVC pipe or other types of hoses. They don't react well to gasoline over time. Also all the auto parts stores in town don't carrry gas filler hoses because every car is so different, so you'll have to order online or through the store for the most part.


Cart Items SKU Qty Item Price Item Total
1-1/4" Inch 90 Degree Elbow Rubber Fuel Filler Neck Hose
D125A90 1 $16.95 USD $16.95 USD
1-1/4" Inch Fuel Filler Hose Joiner Coupling (Stainless Steel)
CPL125 1 $9.95 USD $9.95 USD
1-1/4" To 1" Rubber Fuel Hose I.D. Reducer.
B01 1 $12.95 USD $12.95 USD

Lastly, I didn't know about this issue until today.

https://blog.nader.org/2011/01/26/st...erokee-recall/

It describes why the older Cherokees had such bad safety records, they had the filler tube through the frame, and the WJ's changed that to going under the frame; it has to do with fuel spillage in a wreck. It's too late for me, i'm going through with it. Hopefully the tuck and the huge steel bumper and OEM hitch will help me in the event of a bad wreck. I just wanted anybody thinking about this MOD to be aware.
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post #5 of 43 Old 10-10-2016, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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filler hose kink, fuel would still go through but I don't like this. My new 90 degree bend pipe will turn immediately from the gas tank and go through the tunnel in the unibody.
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post #6 of 43 Old 10-10-2016, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Reminder to put in notes on Exhaust and Fuel Filter re-location.
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post #7 of 43 Old 10-13-2016, 11:39 AM
Jerry Bransford
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What a great project with a really great writeup. Your lessons learned section was really helpful too, nice job!

Are you going to fabricate the 90 degree fuel fill pipe?

And you got up at 4:30 to start this? No wonder your wife was like WTF when the sun came up and you were already outside working.

When you have a choice, buy American made.
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post #8 of 43 Old 10-14-2016, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jerry! That means a lot.

So here is the new gas filler hose I ordered (one with 90 degree bend) next to the OEM one.
I cut the new hose right at where the pic shows the bottom of the OEM one.



Here is the reducer cap I ordered that will take the 1.5" hose (needed to fit onto gas tank) down to 1" to mate up with the metal gas filler tube (what you put the gas in at the station)





This is the OEM filler hose, you can see how this angle doesn't work with a tank raise



This is my new hose, much better!



Here is my tank and skid, all pretty and cleaned up.



The new hose angle as it goes through the unibody....perfect! (this shot is from the rear bumper looking forward if you couldn't tell)



I cut a few inches off the filler tube so the remaining hose had a nice natural angle with no kinks.



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post #9 of 43 Old 10-14-2016, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Night shots of the tank installed. Pay no attention to the exhaust; it's been damaged and is being replaced. I haven't mounted all the hoses either.





I put everything together, put about 2 gallons of gas in the tank, had my other Jeep jumping the WJ (it'd been sitting a LONG while), so the starter and battery were working perfectly but all it does is crank the starter without starting up; obvious it's not getting fuel. I primed the gas pump the only way I know how.....turn the key on (without starting) for a few seconds, then back off, then back on a few seconds, a bunch of times, then eventually try to start the WJ. I was trying so much I felt like I was going to burn out my starter so if anybody has any tips please chime in. In the meantime I'll research this too, some initial searches says that it could possibly be sediment in the tank clogging either the fuel pump or the fuel filter?
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post #10 of 43 Old 10-14-2016, 09:34 PM
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Do you hear the tank prime up when you turn the key that 10 seconds or so is everything getting up to pressure if not then maybe a broken wire to the fuel pump.
It would be really hard to clog the actually pump in my opinion having just recently dropped my tank and fuelpump and went through the whole thing it has a carbon paper filter thing on the bottom almost like a coffer filter flat filled with carbon no way I see that getting clogged all around.
I would suspect a bent/kinked fuel line somewhere or one of the hoses is not on all the way if it worked before nothing much has changed but where the lines are.
Just tossing some ideas out from when I went through my tank I did clean it out and there really wasn't anything in there other then some carbon like stuff or just dirt on the sides that I cleaned off with a cloth wasn't much at all just like a light layer of dust almost.
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post #11 of 43 Old 10-15-2016, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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losttech,

Thanks so much for the reply and all the insights. Yesterday it was hard to tell if the pump was actuating because of my other jeep running to jumpstart the WJ. I just now had my son turn the key as I put my ear to the fuel pump and operates smooth and strong, each time he turns the key it fires up and runs for a solid 2-3 seconds. Doesn't seem to have any trouble or be hiccuping on anything, etc. (at least not with my limited knowledge) I'm so happy I put that access door in the rear so I don't have to drop the tank to troubleshoot this. The fuel lines (green and blue) are fully clicked in against the fuel pump nipples.

My next step will be to inspect all the lines associated with the fuel system and make sure there are no kinks or damage as you have suggested.

Thanks again.
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post #12 of 43 Old 10-15-2016, 07:37 AM
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Wow! Great write up and awesome job. Thanks for sharing.

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post #13 of 43 Old 10-15-2016, 07:54 AM
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Sweet job on this and awesome write-up!

I'm going to suggest one modification to the good suggestion made by HarryH3 in post #13 above. Add some kind of protection to the filler hose to prevent it from contacting that sharp edge where it passes through the sheet metal. Perhaps cover that section of hose with a piece of the hose that is leftover and clamp it into place?
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post #14 of 43 Old 10-15-2016, 01:10 PM
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Just kind of checking things as they come to mind did you replace the fuel filter?
Its actually a fuel filter and regulator I wouldnt see why it would suddenly be bad heck they tend to go on forever but they get plugged up I have tested a new one compared to old and I could barely blow through the old one it was just so plugged with gunk.
There cheap fairly easy to change again I think its super long shot its that but its an easy item to do.
There is also that one little line in the middle of the tank that goes to the evap canister if I remember right I would try to double check that too its hard to say that would kill it but these things have so many computers monitoring stuff its hard to tell.
And everything was working just fine before right?
There might be some other threads on here well I know they are about fuel problems maybe one of those would help someone with more technical knowhow or maybe open a separated thread on it just for the fuel problem.

I do have to say that is a beauty of a job wish I could weld so many things I would like to mess around with.
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post #15 of 43 Old 10-15-2016, 01:36 PM
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Awesome write up! Ill being doing this and wanted t research the tank tuck a little before jumping into it on our shop build. I plan to fabricate my own skid plate as well but may retain the stock plate since the tank is cradled by it and just add some armor. That will be decided when we jump into the rear. Ive got A LOT going into the Jeep at the same time so trying to work my way ground up. But thanks for sharing! Looks good so far besides the fuel issue its having.
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