Lift measurements request. Axle to wheel arch - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 9 Old 08-09-2020, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
Spinifex
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Lift measurements request. Axle to wheel arch

Hey guys. I'm surprised this hasn't been asked 100 times but FAQ and search didn't yield anything.

I'm looking to get some people's measurements of axle (wheel center) to wheel arch. Especially anyone with a 4" lift.

Guys on YouTube do floor to wheel arch but then wheel size comes into play. So not as useful.

Reason I ask is I'm trying to find out what kind of lift I have installed on my Jeep. When I bought it the owner had no idea. It's got IROC stuff, long arms in front. But it sits weird, the rear looks a lot lower than the front. And the 33s scrub a lot in the back.
So I'm troubleshooting and don't want to start playing with the lift until I get an idea on the baseline.

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post #2 of 9 Old 08-10-2020, 07:26 AM
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It has been mentioned a few times but is referred to as "hub to fender". Stock is 18" front 18.25" rear per IRO. My rear 265/75/16 (close to 32's) don't scrub at all on my 3in lift but my front bumper had to be trimmed. If your fronts are fine, I'd say you have a 4in. Maybe sagging springs or broken rear components somewhere? Or maybe the PO "frankensteined" it. Any heavy mods like steel bumper?

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post #3 of 9 Old 08-10-2020, 08:33 AM
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I put in the OME HD 3" lift. My measurements are roughly 20 3/4" hub-to-fender all the way around.

Pre-lift I had factory Up Country package, measurements were 18.5" on 3 corners, 19" on the left rear. Right rear spring isolator was melted so I expect it should have been 19" too.


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ok mostly just repairs, but we are closing in on a lift
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-10-2020, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys,

I have a similar lop-sided issue with the rear and have new isolators on their way this week. The springs themselves are equal height when compressed.

I'm at 23" Front and 21.5" Rear.

So front seems (and looks) huge. It could be the 6.5" IRO Kit with sagged rear springs. Or a Frankenstein mix. My main concern was jacking the rear up to match the front and running into drive-ability problems if the other components in the rear aren't setup for it.

I thought it had this 4" kit based on the parts installed (with the adjustable rear A-Arm) but might be the 6.5" kit which looks pretty similar on parts.
None of the control arms are adjustable - might be an earlier version of the kit? - but has the IRO A-Arm, Doetch Tech shocks and the control arms look the same shame otherwise. From speaking with the PO I'd guess the Lift kit was installed pre-2010.
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post #5 of 9 Old 08-10-2020, 02:14 PM
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Did the PO install it? Was it used for lots of towing or hauling? Could the rear suspension be binding on something (shocks/sway links)? Maybe the extended sway bar links weren't used?

I'd go over the rear end with a fine toothed comb, then probably start by just ordering the 6.5 IRO springs and adjustable rear arms (PM Kolak for best pricing). You can also call IRO with your spring measurements and see which spring you have in the rear. As far as I know the adjustable upper a-arm is the same short vs long arm, adjusts for 2"-7".

BTW my rear has never sat even...always been about 1/2" lower on one side. Used to drive me bonkers but I gave up years ago.

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post #6 of 9 Old 08-10-2020, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, PO bought it as is but did tow a boat with it for a couple of years.

And dang! Maybe the isolators were a waste of money. Oh well, looks like the springs are coming out anyway.

I'm due for a wrecker run so might measure the Rear control arms and swaybar links on a factory one and see what I'm dealing with. If it already had the replacement rear control arms I might be OK with just a new set of springs.
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-10-2020, 05:28 PM
coldspit47
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Isolators are never a waste, I just replaced mine again when I did my axle swap. They were definitely compressed (about 6yrs old), one was melted from a sticky brake caliper. They're cheap and worth it just to keep the spring sitting where it should.

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Nope, PO bought it as is but did tow a boat with it for a couple of years.
Well, sounds like your issue right there. Lifted springs (especially IRO, it seems) don't really like towing all that much and most of the time people don't use a drop hitch so the rear end squats hard while the trailer nose lifts. Not a good combination for very long. My guess is your springs are toast, so that's where I would start. They're currently about $165 pretax/shipping at IRO, but like I said before, PM Kolak for best pricing.

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post #8 of 9 Old 08-16-2020, 05:34 PM
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Measured with axles on jackstands today, 22.25 LR, 22.75 RR. 22.25 LF, 21.75 RF on 3in IRO. New isolators rear, 6yo fronts.

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post #9 of 9 Old 08-17-2020, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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^Dang now you're making me think it's a 4"!

Oh well, new isolators are going in and I have some spacers lying around that should fit to even it up for now. But before Rubicon next year I'll reach out to IRO and figure out exactly what it is and what springs to get so I can get the full travel back.

Thanks guys!
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