Jeep WJ MH1 HID Bi-Xenon Retrofit - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 43 Old 05-28-2014, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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Jeep WJ MH1 HID Bi-Xenon Retrofit

About 4 months ago I installed two sets of DDM 9006 HID bulbs in my stock housings. The output "looked" great and I couldn't understand why everyone was so against using them in the factory housing. Still, I was silently concerned that I was destroying the vision of oncoming traffic. I started doing some research until eventually I ended up using my brother as a guinea pig. He confirmed the blinding glare after a few passes on the street of our parent's home.

I started reading about WJ retro's and eventually stumbled on the Morimoto MH1 Mini from The Retrofit Source. The MH1 is about as "Drop-in" as you could get for the WJ. Most 9006 installations require minimal modification. Additionally, the projector has received excellent reviews. I was sold.

I'll be documenting the steps as I make them. This post begins with a parts list, a few teaser shots and a few details regarding some issues I've already encountered. These housings will be for sale once complete as I have already decided I would like to make a few improvements on the next set.

Parts:
2x - Morimoto MH1 Projector "B-Stock" - $35.00
2x - Mini Chrome Shroud - $1.00
2x - Morimoto 3Five 4300K H1 HID bulbs - $40.00

Total + Shipping & Handling - 5% discount code: $79.04 to theretrofitsource.com

I chose to shop in their closeout section wherever possible. I'm not a lighting fanatic and I reasoned that I wouldn't be able to identify a distinct difference. My plan backfired a bit on me but more on that later.

I'm using Eagle Eye housings purchased previously from Ebay. They ran about $80. Like other's have said, they were exceptionally easy to separate. About 7-8 minutes in the oven, one at a time, at 225F did the trick. I set the housings on a cookie sheet because I was concerned the metal oven rack would concentrate heat and leave depressions in the housings. No issues experienced in this step. Here they are right after coming out of the oven. Still a little toasty.





Now, I should have verified all my hardware before I did the previous step. BUT, I was anxious so I did it after. Turns out I'm missing a few pieces, most importantly the screws used to mount the shroud to the projector. For now I'm making due with two screws in the shroud until I can stop at Ace. I've also notified TRS.



Next, I noticed my first significant snag. One of the B-stock projectors is broken. There are four feet that attach the lens holder to the bowl of the project. One foot on one projector is missing. I had already test mounted the shroud in these pictures (it's actually how I noticed). I've contacted TRS and they are requesting more photos. It seems they will handle it quite well. I realize this is a "B-Stock" projector, but the list of possible issues did not include this problem nor did the chat representative I inquired with state it as a possibility.

Good side: (notice the screw in the hole and the foot on the bottom)


Bad side: (no screw, no foot)



For now, I'm moving on. Next up was to mount the projector in the reflector. While one other retrofit seems to have mounted an MH1 in the WJ housing without modification, I was not so lucky. There is a suggested order in which to use the supplied hardware, you can see it here in step 5: Hardware Order. With all of this in order, there must be enough room for the bulb holder to mount flush with the post at the end. In order to make this happen, I had to file down and widen the hole on the reflective side of the reflector. I am also only using the small silicone washer and hex nut (no metal washer).

Here's an example of what it looked like when it wasn't close enough:


Unfortunately, I have no pictures of it properly mounted yet. More to come.


That's about where I'm at now. I'll be disassembling and photographing the broken projector to speak with TRS this afternoon. In the meantime, here are a few more teaser shots.




Stay tuned.


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post #2 of 43 Old 05-28-2014, 12:53 PM
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What coupon code did you use?
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post #3 of 43 Old 05-28-2014, 02:05 PM
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Which shrouds are those? How close do they sit to the reflector bowl? My mini Gatling guns seem to leave a lot of space. Worried I'll get a lot of light pouring out from behind. Don't wanna seal them up if I'm gonna change my mind about the shrouds later.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,2004 WJ Overland ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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post #4 of 43 Old 05-28-2014, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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There is a code available to people who like their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/TheRetrofitSource

There is also another available to those who have placed orders previously. I'm not sure if they'd like that one shared though.

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post #5 of 43 Old 05-28-2014, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Those shrouds are the chrome version of the mini graphite. http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...l#.U4ZCDNycYds

Another forum member did a comparison of several of their shrouds here: http://www.v6performance.net/forums/...1-shrouds.html

He seemed to prefer the mini chrome over the gatling gun because of the near plug-n-play setup (no modification of the shroud required and still post mount). I chose them simply because they were $1.

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post #6 of 43 Old 05-28-2014, 02:35 PM
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Thanks that link helped quite a lot. Yeah my Gatling gun fit no problem they're just not deep enough for my tastes. Leaves the reflector looking a little empty and doesn't cover enough of the projector I feel.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,2004 WJ Overland ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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post #7 of 43 Old 05-28-2014, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayIV View Post
There is a code available to people who like their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/TheRetrofitSource

There is also another available to those who have placed orders previously. I'm not sure if they'd like that one shared though.
I am and I don't see it which is why I asked what it was?
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post #8 of 43 Old 05-28-2014, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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post #9 of 43 Old 05-28-2014, 03:02 PM
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Thank you!
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post #10 of 43 Old 05-28-2014, 03:39 PM
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Well looks like I missed out. The b stock projectors are still liste debut no option to add to cart.
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post #11 of 43 Old 05-28-2014, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuglife View Post
Thanks that link helped quite a lot. Yeah my Gatling gun fit no problem they're just not deep enough for my tastes. Leaves the reflector looking a little empty and doesn't cover enough of the projector I feel.
I'd have to agree with the size. I would like it a little more filled out. As I said earlier, these will be for sale when complete. I've added this to my list of desired improvements. I might try one of their D2S drop-in options the next time around.

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post #12 of 43 Old 05-28-2014, 07:47 PM
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Price?
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post #13 of 43 Old 05-29-2014, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Updates

TRS is taking care of the projector. Here's some images of the broken leg mount for example's sake.






Here's some more detail on how I'm removing material from the reflector. Slow and consistent is the key here so I'm using a rasp and a file.

Example of the lip in the reflector that I'm moving:


How much material I've removed:


How I'm removing it:


We're nearly perfect. I need to remove some more material before the nut will sit flush. I should have the driver's side completed this evening.

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post #14 of 43 Old 06-03-2014, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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As of yesterday, I'm about 95% complete with the project. Both projectors are installed and aligned. The last thing on the list is to wire the cut off shield actuators (wire the high-beams of the projectors).

I completed the driver's side last week but had to wait until the replacement lens and mount arrived to complete the passenger side. In that time, I drove about 300 miles in the rain and I have absolutely no leaks. I'd like to reinforce how easy this is, despite the intimidation.

Here's how I ultimately mounted the projector in the factory reflector. Light follows the direction of this arrow <---: Projector, small silicone washer (included), reflector, tensioning nut, housing seal (Part of the headlights), rear plastic bulb holder & 3 screw (Part of the headlights), Bulb holder, H1 bulb, clip. Here's a few pictures of the rear of the assembly:

Close-up of the nut:


How I pulled the cut off shield actuator wires through:


Bulb holder, bulb, clip:


Closeup of clearance:


This area was very close. Still, it worked on both headlights without a hitch:


How it looks:




Reassembly of the light was very simple. I will cover that in more detail in the following post.

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post #15 of 43 Old 06-03-2014, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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I received the replacement lens holder on Monday and go started right away. Now that I knew what I was doing, the hole thing took me less than two hours total. I was cooking dinner and having a few beers in between so it was no rush. It's really that easy.

New (already mounted) vs old:


Remove the light and preheat the oven:


Remove the hardware, no need to heat them:


About 10 mins at 225F for the passenger light (approximately 7 minutes at 225F for the drivers):


Remove from the oven and carefully separate:

Pro-Tips: Separate the lens and shroud from the housing from the top down. Use a flathead screw driver to gently pry around the perimeter until it opens a bit. I dabbed the tip in olive oil so that the sealant wouldn't stick to the screw driver. I wasn't concerned about the screwdriver but the sealant becomes very stringy and malleable which makes it liable to land on parts of the headlight. It's VERY hard to remove. Save the side closest to you in this photo for last. The lip is larger here and needs to be slid out rather than pulled apart. Go slowly, cutting the strings and putting them back in the channel of the headlight. You'll be reusing this sealant to close the lights so keep as much as possible. Leave the headlight shroud inside the clear lens unless you intend to modify it. It simplifies things greatly.

Next remove the low beam bulb shield:


Now you're ready to begin filing the lip of the reflector:


After a significant quantity of filing, mount your projector as described above:


Now, take the housing out to your Jeep and temporarily mount it. Turn the lights on and make sure the projectors are equal and level. Remove the housings and mark the position of the projector using a Sharpie. Tighten the nut until you can't anymore, ensuring the marks remain aligned. You will have very, very minuscule adjustment left once they are reassembled so get it close but don't sweat it too much.

Now reassembly. Five minutes back in the oven at 225F. Attach the lens and the shroud from the large lipped side first. Clamp down on the lights. My lights had convenient clips built in making this unnecessary. Reassemble, mount and check alignment and adjust if required.

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