Jeep WJ AC not cooling right.. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 04-07-2021, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
preppye
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Jeep WJ AC not cooling right..

I need help with my ac... I already replaced compressor as it had a grinding noise and pressure sensor, but it wont cool very well, the hose from the compressor seems condensed but not freezing, i think the compressor shuts too fast, i compared it to my friends Escape, and wifes Camry and both freeze inside , mine has the auto climate controls, the evaporator is clean as well , is there any other thing i can do to improve cooling?
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post #2 of 14 Old 04-07-2021, 03:41 PM
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you did evacuate the system (pull a vacuum), add the correct amount of r134a, and when checking the low and high pressures readings they are ?
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When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #3 of 14 Old 04-07-2021, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jtec View Post
you did evacuate the system (pull a vacuum), add the correct amount of r134a, and when checking the low and high pressures readings they are ?
They add 2 cans , and yes they vaccum the system first, but what confusses me the most is that the compressor cycles like its cooling ok, but in the inside the air is only cool, not chill as other cars i have compared to..
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post #4 of 14 Old 04-07-2021, 04:25 PM
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I would check the automatic climate control system first it sounds like your blend door for the heat and AC isnt moving all the way and it's letting heat in I'm having the same problem right now
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post #5 of 14 Old 04-08-2021, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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I would check the automatic climate control system first it sounds like your blend door for the heat and AC isnt moving all the way and it's letting heat in I'm having the same problem right now
I test the blend door i got the travel error but never thought that could cause low cool, just low air flow... i know the passenger side is not the same as drivers side, thats why i know blend doors are not right .. but will check that soon i already know how to fix it with the glove box hack...
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post #6 of 14 Old 04-08-2021, 01:36 PM
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check this out
https://heatertreater.net/jeep-grand-cherokee-98-04
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When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #7 of 14 Old 04-08-2021, 06:59 PM
anotherheep
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If your compressor was going to pieces, you might have fragments in the system that would clog the condenser. I've never experienced, but have heard they should be replaced if that happens because even flushing the system may not get all the fragments out. Did you flush the system? Also is your fan clutch working right? Engine temps running any higher?
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post #8 of 14 Old 04-08-2021, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by preppye View Post
I test the blend door i got the travel error but never thought that could cause low cool, just low air flow... i know the passenger side is not the same as drivers side, thats why i know blend doors are not right .. but will check that soon i already know how to fix it with the glove box hack...
I remember our XJ's (Cherokee) have a valve in the heater core hose outside of the firewall which shut the coolant off from traveling through the core when the heat wasn't turned on.

But that's not the way the ZJ's (93-98 GC) or WJ's (99-04 GC) function and there is no shut-off valve. Not a very efficient system when you have real hot coolant flowing through the heater core in the dash while trying to cool down with AC.

To top it off if you have blend door problems then the door(s) can be partially open towards the core instead of AC evaporator letting lots of warm/hot air mixed with AC air coming out of the vents.

If you do replace the blend doors by going through the front of the HVAC box use a cheap soldering iron with tip flattened and it will cut through the plastic like butter. Leaves a lot smaller gap to seal and no plastic chips all over.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310...l#post40249155

I'll still be pulling the box to replace my leaking evaporator along with about everything else HVAC related.

Also see the last 2 posts in that thread on the reason air flow diminishes is bad or rotten foam seals.

Hopefully when you installed a new compressor you also installed a new filter/drier (accumulator) which holds lots of dirt, metal particles and water. Also agree with 'anotherheep' on flushing the system prior to installing a new compressor.

At this point I'd fix your blend door problems then see what you have to work with. Good luck.

PS. Real good AC performance chart by jtec in using a set of manifold gauges. In a correct functioning system you need to hold the idle at 1,000 rpm on the 99 WJ and 1,300 rpm on the 2000-2004 WJ to see those pressures. That chart is for the 00-04 and the 99 chart has some slightly different specs.

It would also be a good idea to check your pressures to make sure they're near normal.

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post #9 of 14 Old 04-09-2021, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
preppye
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Originally Posted by anotherheep View Post
If your compressor was going to pieces, you might have fragments in the system that would clog the condenser. I've never experienced, but have heard they should be replaced if that happens because even flushing the system may not get all the fragments out. Did you flush the system? Also is your fan clutch working right? Engine temps running any higher?
The ac compressor was replaced because i tought it was the issue , but it was working the same,...
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-09-2021, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by preppye View Post
I test the blend door i got the travel error but never thought that could cause low cool, just low air flow... i know the passenger side is not the same as drivers side, thats why i know blend doors are not right .. but will check that soon i already know how to fix it with the glove box hack...
I remember our XJ's (Cherokee) have a valve in the heater core hose outside of the firewall which shut the coolant off from traveling through the core when the heat wasn't turned on.

But that's not the way the ZJ's (93-98 GC) or WJ's (99-04 GC) function and there is no shut-off valve. Not a very efficient system when you have real hot coolant flowing through the heater core in the dash while trying to cool down with AC.

To top it off if you have blend door problems then the door(s) can be partially open towards the core instead of AC evaporator letting lots of warm/hot air mixed with AC air coming out of the vents.

If you do replace the blend doors by going through the front of the HVAC box use a cheap soldering iron with tip flattened and it will cut through the plastic like butter. Leaves a lot smaller gap to seal and no plastic chips all over.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...l#post40249155

I'll still be pulling the box to replace my leaking evaporator along with about everything else HVAC related.

Also see the last 2 posts in that thread on the reason air flow diminishes is bad or rotten foam seals.

Hopefully when you installed a new compressor you also installed a new filter/drier (accumulator) which holds lots of dirt, metal particles and water. Also agree with 'anotherheep' on flushing the system prior to installing a new compressor.

At this point I'd fix your blend door problems then see what you have to work with. Good luck.

PS. Real good AC performance chart by jtec in using a set of manifold gauges. In a correct functioning system you need to hold the idle at 1,000 rpm on the 99 WJ and 1,300 rpm on the 2000-2004 WJ to see those pressures. That chart is for the 00-04 and the 99 chart has some slightly different specs.

It would also be a good idea to check your pressures to make sure they're near normal.
I actually dont know if this jeep uses that valve, i had an xj once and replaced that valve once, i reviwed the codes and the one im getting from the console is the recirc door 52, not blend doors i might check them anyway , i believe that the recirc door was fixed open to get air from outside and that may be a problem, but everything else is working ok... the compressor shuts down fine as it is cooling right but in the inside is not... i removed the blower and i can see that the evaporator freezes so it might be a blend door issue...will do the blend doors check with the soldering iron and will keep you guys posted, thanks for help...🤟
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post #11 of 14 Old 04-09-2021, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jtec View Post
Hello i already open the box and blend doors are ok, the recirc is fixed but for inside air only, the thing is that the thermostat probe is in the core, i dont know if it belongs there, do you know where is located, or if it goes there?
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post #12 of 14 Old 04-09-2021, 05:43 PM
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Has anyone checked the system for leaks, and proper refrigerant charge? Its not going to cool right if either of those conditions aren't met. If you have a leak and low refrigerant its not going to cool no matter what you try to do and no matter if the blend and recirc doors work or not.

No need to dig into the dash until you have 100% verified there aren't any leaks and restrictions in the system, and that the system has the proper amount of refrigerant in it. If they used any sort of refrigerant with stop leak, most likely its plugged up your condenser and possibly the orifice tube as well. The compressor at that point will act like everything is fine because there's a restriction so it thinks the system is building pressure just fine and working as intended, the compressor is dumb, it has no clue that there's a proverbial cork blocking refrigerant flow through the evaporator in the dash. The limit switches just tell the compressor that there's enough pressure or there isn't enough pressure so turn on or turn off basically.

2 cans of refrigerant? What kind of shop is doing AC work and using cans? Sounds awfully fishy to me, a shop will usually have a machine that does all this automatically, but in the very least they'll have a 30 pound refrigerant cylinder, gauges, and a scale. I'm betting there isn't enough refrigerant in the system to begin with, combined with a 1/2 assed attempt at evacuating the system, checking for leaks, and recharging it. If you think the compressor is cycling off too soon, its a good possibility the system is not properly charged, low refrigerant will cause rapid cycling of the compressor.

The other issue is if they used 2 cans of refrigerant, they are 8-16 ounce cans typically, if they dumped in 2 large cans, they overcharged the system. Overcharging will cause the compressor to cycle off and possibly not turn back on for too long of a period of time causing a low cooling situation similar to what you are experiencing. This can also be the case if the system has air in it as well.

Your vehicle needs to have a proper AC technician do a complete evacuation of the system, a pressure test, leak test, and recharge it properly. Sounds like you have an over or under charge situation depending on how often the compressor is cycling...with either condition you won't get proper cooling no matter what the blend and recirculation doors are doing.

Also, its best to test one of those auto climate control systems in a manual setting, not in auto. Set it to manual panel vent, recirculate, and select the temperature, then check the temp of the air coming out of the center vents, should be less than 40 degrees, but slightly higher than freezing. You'll of course need a thermometer for that which you can insert into the vent.

I should also add, most likely nothing was wrong with the original compressor, but possibly a worn or out of adjustment clutch, they make grinding noises, clicking noises (its engaged by an electromagnetic clutch).

When the system is properly evacuated, leak tested, and refilled, have dye added so that any future leaks can be easier to locate with a UV light.
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post #13 of 14 Old 04-11-2021, 03:12 PM
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i'd be leery of a shop that uses a "couple of cans" of refrigerant to "fix" your system. they should have flushed it, pulled vacuum, let it sit and watch for leakage, then refilled it with the proper amount of refrigerant. i'd have wanted a new drier as well. {although maybe not 100% required, i'd feel better about my system if it was mine} i realize from your location, this may not be available, but i'd be looking for another shop, and finding a guy with a proper a/c servicing machine, and someone there that actually knows how to use it.

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post #14 of 14 Old 04-11-2021, 10:18 PM
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I didn't bother reading through all the suggestions etc but my AC was feeling weak a few years ago...I then went and back-sprayed my condenser (sprayed from inside engine compartment out through radiator (rotating fan blades out of the way to be thorough and get good angles) and that made a SIGNIFICANT difference. Be careful not to pull hose trigger on full blast as that can damage fins in radiator / condenser.....just a solid medium pressure works well. Was planning on doing it again here in a few days coincidentally.
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