Improving safe water crossing from stock - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
leadsled jeep
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Improving safe water crossing from stock

Gents, my WJ hasnít even gone thru more than mild water depth say to my axle. Can anyone provide a quick recommendation on whatís needed to improve water crossing over stock provisions? I have a 2Ē BDS lift for background and donít plan DEEP water crossings nor interested in snorkels. But all other suggestions very interested in. Thanks amigos.


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post #2 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 06:16 AM
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Could route the stock air box inlet higher up in the engine bay.

Make sure your door gaskets are good.

Relocate all breather hoses to higher location. (Axles, transfer case..)

Dielectric grease on all wire connections along with maybe a few wraps of packaging shrink plastic wrap.
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post #3 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 06:45 AM
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In seep days, they used to reckon, an hour in the water means a day in the workshop.

Check your axle breathers are well above your water line.

Leave your door on the safety latch.
As, when, and if your feet get wet.
Back out slowly.

If your car loses weight as the water rises up the cills you lose traction.
Once the water comes over the cills, you get that traction back.
The middle of water, especially if it's flowing quickly is a very bad place to lose traction.

You can get pushed sideways by the water flow into deeper water.

Always over estimate the chance of getting swept away by the current..
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post #4 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Great input guys. Dielectric grease in connectors… good one I wouldn’t have thought of that. 8-)

On the breather tubes, how does one extend them? Remove the OEM tube and replace the whole tube I assume? Plain rubber hose fine of same OD/ID? Also, how high/ far do you run them? Sorry for the questions, I like to have a good visual plan before I get my parts and tackle the project.

I don’t plan to tackle deep water but I’d like to know I can cross water maybe halfway up my doors let’s say.

'02 HO 235k ml. BDS, tubular arms, Addco sways. 245-70-17. Amsoil. W1CCW WRKi761
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post #5 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 07:23 AM
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I used to like crossing water. Ruining wheel bearing turned me off of it. I would only do it in emergencies now and check my bearings very soon afterward. I don't recall at the moment how weatherproof our WJ bearings are. I think it's a sealed bearing but water and silt can find it's way in about anywhere. Have fun.
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post #6 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 07:30 AM
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You could use this for your axle breathers. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tgi-140207-1-kit

I put one on the rear. Tossed the provided nipple and clamp, attached to the existing axle hardware. Clamped with a worm drive from hardware store.
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post #7 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 08:18 AM
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Sorry, but half way up a door is "deep water".
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post #8 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadsled jeep View Post
Great input guys. Dielectric grease in connectorsÖ good one I wouldnít have thought of that. 8-)

On the breather tubes, how does one extend them? Remove the OEM tube and replace the whole tube I assume? Plain rubber hose fine of same OD/ID? Also, how high/ far do you run them? Sorry for the questions, I like to have a good visual plan before I get my parts and tackle the project.

I donít plan to tackle deep water but Iíd like to know I can cross water maybe halfway up my doors letís say.
Dielectric means it doesn't conduct electricity Lead.
The grease in your grease gun is about as waterproof.

Best to run the front breathers up inside the engine room.
Best to the rear breathers up inside the car, or I suppose the engine room.
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post #9 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 02:47 PM
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Don't forget things like dipstick tubes as well. I'd only put so much faith in a 20 year old seal.

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post #10 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta0 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by leadsled jeep View Post
Great input guys. Dielectric grease in connectors… good one I wouldn’t have thought of that. 8-)

On the breather tubes, how does one extend them? Remove the OEM tube and replace the whole tube I assume? Plain rubber hose fine of same OD/ID? Also, how high/ far do you run them? Sorry for the questions, I like to have a good visual plan before I get my parts and tackle the project.

I don’t plan to tackle deep water but I’d like to know I can cross water maybe halfway up my doors let’s say.
Dielectric means it doesn't conduct electricity Lead.
The grease in your grease gun is about as waterproof.

Best to run the front breathers up inside the engine room.
Best to the rear breathers up inside the car, or I suppose the engine room.
I wouldn’t use regular grease it’ll eventually dissolve the soft rubber seals in the connector. The dielectric grease was to make a better water seal and to prevent corrosion
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post #11 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 08:03 PM
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Don't hit the water fast, the best advice I was ever given about the subject. Of course this was AFTER I hydrolocked my Chevy LUV truck... The breathers are very important, and remember both axles have them, the transfer case and transmission also have one each. In the past I have put a hose clamp on the dipstick tube a few inches from the end. I would then attach a spring to the dipstick handle some way and the other end to the clamp, this keeps the stick tight to the gasket and will keep it from coming up out of the tube a bit as well.
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post #12 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 10:59 PM
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well, i end up crossing a lot of rivers in my wj, and i always check my fluids when i get home. i can tell you that other than keeping your breathers up, and accepting that a 20 year old jeep might get a damp carpet if you're into water up towards the floorboards or door seals, your jeep will probably handle some pretty deep water without too much trouble.

your serpentine belt and fan really turn into a sprinkler if you get water up there, though, so even what seems like shallow water might give you electrical gremlins if you don't have everything wrapped up tight.

even if you get a few drips in a breather or something, it wont really hurt much.

where i tend to run into trouble crossing water isn't so much depth, it's unseen rocks or holes. sometimes you tag something mean and there's very little you can do about it. that transfer case skid plate seems to be a favorite. now when i'm going through sketchy rivers i tend to zig zag a bit, to help feel out obstacles and also nudge rocks out of my path rather than trying to drive over them. sometimes it also lets me discover rocks that i otherwise would have driven straight over and bottomed out on.

sometimes i've been afraid of some river crossings that looked really wide and deep, and almost turned around to go home, ruining a long voyage, only to watch my dog walk across them like they're a puddle.

i guess that should be your main rule - if possible, let some other ******* go first...
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post #13 of 24 Old 07-29-2021, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by WJ60 View Post
Sorry, but half way up a door is "deep water".
Very true WJ.
Only I'd call it "Floating about deep water." unless you've got the doors on the safety latches.
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post #14 of 24 Old 07-30-2021, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by speednjay View Post
I wouldn’t use regular grease it’ll eventually dissolve the soft rubber seals in the connector. The dielectric grease was to make a better water seal and to prevent corrosion
The type of connector that has a seal is waterproof.

The ones without seals, grounds, batteries, under bonnet / hood fuses & relays, for instance, benefit from grease.
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post #15 of 24 Old 07-30-2021, 04:27 PM
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rfesu mentioned a great point I cannot believe I forgot, I do it on every crossing that looks sketchy. I do the walk through. After the rod bending adventure I had with the LUV truck ( the puddle looked shallow and was not very long, turned out to be about 3 ft deep) I would rather have wet feet than do that again.
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