IM BACK! Just picked up a 02 V8 WJ, some things I need help fixing.. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 01-18-2020, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
DoctorTim
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Thumbs up IM BACK! Just picked up a 02 V8 WJ, some things I need help fixing..

After being 5 years without a Jeep, I'm finally back and have an itch for wheelin. I picked up a 2002 V8 WJ with 98K. I noticed a few things I'd like to fix before doing mods.

1) Oil pressure sits at the 3/4 mark and doesn't deviate much. It seems a little high imo as I remember my XJ normally sat at the 1/2 mark. Is this an issue or is it normal op pressure?

2) Rear D44a has the lsd. On tight turns with some gas it feels like the LSD is too tight and making moaning noise. Service records shows that there was a mopar service done 5K ago on the diff. Could they have missed the friction additive or is there something worse I should check for?

3) When going from park to D/R, the trans has a slight delay and it sounds like a pump is sucking up oil or whatever before it dongs into gear. Whats the fix? Is it normal?

4) What are some worth-while mods I should do? In my XJ days I remember doing some easy and cheap mods that improved intake flow, cooling, alternator, etc..

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post #2 of 13 Old 01-18-2020, 10:11 PM
SoCal2004wj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctorTim View Post
After being 5 years without a Jeep, I'm finally back and have an itch for wheelin. I picked up a 2002 V8 WJ with 98K. I noticed a few things I'd like to fix before doing mods.

1) Oil pressure sits at the 3/4 mark and doesn't deviate much. It seems a little high imo as I remember my XJ normally sat at the 1/2 mark. Is this an issue or is it normal op pressure?

2) Rear D44a has the lsd. On tight turns with some gas it feels like the LSD is too tight and making moaning noise. Service records shows that there was a mopar service done 5K ago on the diff. Could they have missed the friction additive or is there something worse I should check for?

3) When going from park to D/R, the trans has a slight delay and it sounds like a pump is sucking up oil or whatever before it dongs into gear. Whats the fix? Is it normal?

4) What are some worth-while mods I should do? In my XJ days I remember doing some easy and cheap mods that improved intake flow, cooling, alternator, etc..
1.) IIRC the later WJs basically used an idiot gauge for oil pressure. Either it had pressure or not, no real value assigned to the gauge.

2.) Does the Mopar service state they included the additive? Short of a drain and fill, it wouldn't hurt to add a bit of friction modifier.

3.) How is the trans fluid level? Has it ever been serviced? I had this happen when the TPS was going out. Once replaced, no delay from the trans.

I'm sure other people can offer some suggestions as well
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post #3 of 13 Old 01-19-2020, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SoCal2004wj View Post
1.) IIRC the later WJs basically used an idiot gauge for oil pressure. Either it had pressure or not, no real value assigned to the gauge.

2.) Does the Mopar service state they included the additive? Short of a drain and fill, it wouldn't hurt to add a bit of friction modifier.

3.) How is the trans fluid level? Has it ever been serviced? I had this happen when the TPS was going out. Once replaced, no delay from the trans.

I'm sure other people can offer some suggestions as well
Service write-up only says "01CHZ4X4 Differential Service $449.95". Ill probably pull the fill plug and pour in some additive when i get the chance. Will there be any harm in driving it like it is for a time or should this be something i do asap?

Ill check trans fluid level tomorrow, but it was also serviced by mopar "01CHZATFFLTR Auto Trans Service with Filter - Premium $429.95"
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post #4 of 13 Old 01-20-2020, 11:20 AM
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I have an '02 with a 4.7L as well (original owner), these things are very familiar.


1) My oil gauge runs at 3/4 mark when cold and drops to about 1/2 when hot. It seems high to me but has done this as long as I can remember. Call it normal.



2) I personally would not trust that dealer diff service on the D44a, change the fluid and add FM. Pull the rubber fill plug and stick your finger in there, check to see if there is oil in it. I have had dealers simply forget to refill it and then tried to blame me for it.


3) Delay when engaging drive gear is normal. You can probably reduce the delay by changing fluids and filters. I completed stage 3 of my backyard mechanic tranny flush yesterday and was surprised at how much the shifts were improved.


Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace all the fluids you can for peace of mind. Standard practice when picking up a used vehicle.
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ok mostly just repairs, but we are closing in on a lift
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post #5 of 13 Old 01-20-2020, 11:37 AM
1202diesel
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I recently picked up my first WJ as well, and have a found a few helpful things to get some peace of mind.

That oil pressure thing doesn’t seem crazy, but the oil pressure switch/sensor is relatively cheap ($55 CDN at parts store amazon... way cheaper). I only changed mine since it was kicking off and scaring me into thinking the pump was shot. Changed out and it’s golden now. Runs around 1/2 way all the time, when at idle it drops to maybe 1/3 of the gauge.

Check all the bushings and play in the steering, bushing are cheap USB and can go a long way to making sure you never get death wobble.

Fluids of course. Friction modifier would be a good thing to check into.

A new rad cap wouldn’t hurt, Changed mine from an 18psi to a 20psi. Thermostat is cheap and easy as well.

PCV valves seem to go on these, and that’s another cheap easy fix part.

Front breaks tend to wear unevenly so watch for that, outside pads were roasted on mine and inners were at about 40%.

The cool free mods are easy and seem
To help, the bumper trim looks cool if you don’t care about fog lights.

I just did the torque management delete and it seemed to firm up the shifts, and got rid of the delay when going from park to reverse, and reverse to drive. I’m not sure if it’s intended to, but it did for me. I just put a switch in so I can turn it off if need be. There’s also a dealer reflash for the trans that apparently changes shift points, “unlocks” a 5th gear. Maybe check into that.

Heated seat coils tend to break and it’s a ***** to fix so unless you need them I wouldn’t even bother fixing.


Just my 2 cents.
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post #6 of 13 Old 01-21-2020, 05:22 PM
Wheelin98TJ
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Originally Posted by 1202diesel View Post
I just did the torque management delete and it seemed to firm up the shifts, and got rid of the delay when going from park to reverse, and reverse to drive. I’m not sure if it’s intended to, but it did for me. I just put a switch in so I can turn it off if need be...
I like this mod. Makes it much more fun to drive.

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...There’s also a dealer reflash for the trans that apparently changes shift points, “unlocks” a 5th gear. Maybe check into that...
2001 and newer came with 5 speeds (2 overdrives) from the factory.

99 and 00 models are 4 speeds (1 overdrive) from the factory.
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post #7 of 13 Old 01-22-2020, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1202diesel View Post
I just did the torque management delete and it seemed to firm up the shifts, and got rid of the delay when going from park to reverse, and reverse to drive. I’m not sure if it’s intended to, but it did for me. I just put a switch in so I can turn it off if need be...
I like this mod. Makes it much more fun to drive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1202diesel View Post
...There’s also a dealer reflash for the trans that apparently changes shift points, “unlocks” a 5th gear. Maybe check into that...
2001 and newer came with 5 speeds (2 overdrives) from the factory.

99 and 00 models are 4 speeds (1 overdrive) from the factory.
Guess I missed in the original post it stating it was 02. Your totally correct.

Regardless, fun little unit. Not best platform to start with for modding, unibody and all that stuff that seems to go wrong. Maintenance harlottes for sure.
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post #8 of 13 Old 01-22-2020, 08:46 AM
jtec
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oil pressure gauge is not a calibrated unit, a good guess device - if your worried put a new sender on part list.

Trans isssue - service was done dy a jeep dealer? Use of the correct fluid is the concern- also if filter is installed with a poor seal the condition you describe may occur not uncommon.

Won't hurt to add posi additive try this and advise - in a parking lot a tight right turn and 4 circles then wheel turned left and 4 circles -

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #9 of 13 Old 01-22-2020, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
... if filter is installed with a poor seal the condition you describe may occur not uncommon.
Interesting! When I pulled my old filter out the seal came with it, maybe my seal wasn't fully seated and that's why it engages drive so much faster now. Thanks for the insight jtec!


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ok mostly just repairs, but we are closing in on a lift
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-22-2020, 09:55 AM
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I put a real pressure gauge in my 02 Overland. Compare the factory gauge to the new one. The factory one hardly moves.
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post #11 of 13 Old 01-24-2020, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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Ok so here is my take. Thanks all for replying, your comments are really helpful. I added ATF+4 to where it shows full, not sure if it helped or placebo, theres still a delay in shifts and a "sucking a straw with air bubbles, but not like when your drink is empty" sound when I shift between P/R/N/D. My next step will be replacing all of the fluid and the filter. The torque management switch mod sounds like its going to be my first mod. Ill probably set up a 4-6 switch panel with relays in the engine bay for easy future mods too.

The higher than 1/2 mark oil pressure doesn't seem to be something to worry about. Ill use an OBD+bluetooth thingy to see what its at tomorrow.

As for the rear axle, I've had a hard time finding additive at my local autozone (they have only one that says not to use on vari-lok). Any particular brand/store/amazon link I should look at?

PCV valve and new rad cap is on my parts list for the next auto part store visit.

Cheers.
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post #12 of 13 Old 01-26-2020, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal2004wj View Post
1.) Does the Mopar service state they included the additive? Short of a drain and fill, it wouldn't hurt to add a bit of friction modifier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GmanWJ View Post
I personally would not trust that dealer diff service on the D44a, change the fluid and add FM. Pull the rubber fill plug and stick your finger in there, check to see if there is oil in it. I have had dealers simply forget to refill it and then tried to blame me for it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1202diesel View Post
Fluids of course. Friction modifier would be a good thing to check into.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
Won't hurt to add posi additive try this and advise - in a parking lot a tight right turn and 4 circles then wheel turned left and 4 circles
Did the 4 turns one way and 4 another. Lots of moaning and possibly a binding feeling from the rear diff. I added 1oz of modifier and it all went away after a few of these loop-dee-loops. Thanks guys.

Still trying to diagnose the trans issue. Adding fluid didn't do much. I'm thinking of just draining the ATF and replacing the filter myself. That might happen tomorrow or next weekend. Ill update when that happens.
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post #13 of 13 Old 01-26-2020, 08:04 AM
jtec
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I still would do trans filters, paying attention to 'flat' filter and the seal.

this is a copy and paste from WJJEEPS they explain the concern - better than I do anyway

FILTER SEAL CAUTION (545RFE):

The primary oil filter seal MUST be fully installed flush against the oil pump body. DO NOT install the seal onto the filter neck and attempt to install the filter and seal as an assembly. Damage to the transmission will result. Install the new primary oil filter seal in the oil pump inlet bore. Seat the seal in the bore with the butt end of a hammer, or other suitable tool. Place replacement filter in position on valve body and into the oil pump. Install screw to hold filter to valve body. Tighten screw to 40 in. lbs. torque.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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