I screwed up - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-10-2020, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
Whoop92
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Angry I screwed up

Hi All,

As the title says, I screwed up and Iím hoping that you can help.

The half axles were replaced a few months ago and I didnít get the left side brake caliper bracket bolts tightened enough. One came all the way out and the caliper jammed against the inside of the wheel, completely stopping it from rotating forward.

I had to force the jeep out of traffic, making the left front tire skid for about 8 feet, and then had it towed home.

I inspected the carnage today.

The tire is flat, the caliper carved a gouge around the inside of the wheel, the left brake pads are torn up, the left brake rotor is scored, and there is a leak from the right half axle.

What other damage should I look for? Also, how do I fix that leak on the right side?

Thanks so much!!

Attached Thumbnails
Right CV joint leak - 9 Sept.jpg   Right CV joint leak bottom - 9 Sept.jpg  
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post #2 of 15 Old 09-10-2020, 04:20 PM
snowbuggy
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That's some pretty bad luck right there. That's a hard way to learn. It sounds like you may have damaged the inner seal in the axle. I have always been scared of doing that but been lucky so far. I haven't had to replace one either so I can't help much with that. You can buy a FSM on CD on ebay for $15. The CD I got is a good one. I bought one for my Caddy and it was a crappy one, might have been a Haynes or something.
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post #3 of 15 Old 09-10-2020, 06:43 PM
UKXJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowbuggy View Post
That's some pretty bad luck right there. That's a hard way to learn. It sounds like you may have damaged the inner seal in the axle. . .


Have you got a link to your FSM CD? 'cos I've also found that buying them on-line is like buying a pig in a poke. e.g. I got mine as a download for A$8 (ifirc) but I could only access it on my PC at work & print (all 2,000-odd pages of) it.

Several U-tube vids on, e.g., fitting lockers will also provide helpful info. on replacing the seals.
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-11-2020, 05:56 AM
snowbuggy
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What a bummer. The guy I bought it from isn't on ebay any more. I wonder why? His name was manualjoy. The one I did not like was from seventy95. You might have to take a gamble or buy the actual paper version. I would consider sending you a copy of mine but I'm sure it's too big to email. If you get stuck I'll see if I can figure out how to send some of the front axle pages.
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post #5 of 15 Old 09-11-2020, 09:39 AM
Bigrigr
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If all you lost was the caliper and bracket, then the axle assembly shouldnt have moved. It is set with the wheel bearing and nut in the center of the rotor. That leak may be from when the axle assemblies were replaced a few months ago. The only way to repair that seal is to tear down the axle assembly to an empty housing and use special tools to remove and replace the seals.(not an easy job). If your tire is flat, its possible the bolt that jammed into the wheel caused a crack in the wheel that is not repairable, without a wheel specialist. If they are factory wheels, look for a replacement at the JY. Better check and make sure the brake hose is still in good shape, and double check the threads in the bolt holes for the bracket. If the threads are ok, you could get away with a new set of calipers, rotors and brake pads. Just make sure you get everything tight this time!

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #6 of 15 Old 09-11-2020, 11:29 AM
Fzz
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My worry in that situation would be damage that you might not have already thought about - if you have QD/variloks up front it might've buggered the diff/clutches etc. If it were me, I'd cut my losses and look for a good used axle to start afresh with.
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post #7 of 15 Old 09-11-2020, 01:25 PM
Uniblurb
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Best to always list your year and engine in case we look up parts for you. I had to go back quite a few posts to find you have a 2001 4.7.

Below is a good video on replacing the inner axle seals on the D30 front axle. Granted it's a XJ in the video where different bolts/calipers but installing the inner axle seals are the same as a WJ D30 axle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbbbJ****Kg

Just great and youtube won't let me copy/paste the above video so it can be watched. Likely the URL will need copied below and pasted into a google search.

https://youtu.be/MbbbJ****Kg That doesn't work either and just figured out the Jeep forum is blocking this since there's what could be considered a profane word in the address. Real nice. Just do a search, "How to replace inner axle seals" and the video is fairly long at 17:02 minutes

I don't think I'd install those aftermarket outer axle seals towards the end of the video unless you off-road a bunch in water/mud. Good luck.
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post #8 of 15 Old 09-11-2020, 02:30 PM
HarryH3
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Lots of Dana 30 inner axle seal replacement videos here: https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...ner+axle+seals
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post #9 of 15 Old 09-11-2020, 03:30 PM
Bigrigr
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Woah... i dont think i would throw away that axle assembly yet.... unless you're tossing it my way.....It wouldnt hurt that diff assembly with only 8ft of lockup.

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #10 of 15 Old 09-12-2020, 09:22 PM
Golden-Arm
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look at what bigrig said. check your brake hose and line, check the caliper itself. calipers are inexpensive. so are pads. a gouge in the circumference of a wheel isnt a big deal, as long as it is less than half the thickness of the section of the wheel where it occurs. if the wheel isn't out of round, run it.



try to air the tire back up. the bead might have simply busted. if the axle boot isn't torn, how are you getting grease out of it? are you sure it isn't brake fluid? there a lot of easier and cheaper things to investigate, before you just randomly throw an axle and kit into this. just some thoughts. good luck!
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post #11 of 15 Old 09-13-2020, 08:59 PM
The Happy Friar
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I had the "i screwed up" issue on my jeep a couple months ago: I replaced the rotors & pad and never torqued any of the bolts... because I didn't own a 3/8" torque wrench. The front right brake bracket lost a bolt while delivering mail. Unlike you I was on a dead-end road when it happened & I found out if I backed up I could un-jam it, but when I'd apply the brakes it would jam up again. I drove it ~3.5 miles back to my house in 1st gear, not applying the brakes at all.



That was scary. I started on a steep S curve hill and I had to pray nobody was at the bottom of them because if I applied the brakes I'd seize the front right tire.



However, the only damage was my pride, a small gouge in the rim, messed up rotor, and needing a new bolt. Nothing bad happened to the axle seals, brake line wasn't damaged. I'd think if you have a seal leak it's unrelated.


I might have an idea on the leak though: I had my rear seals fixed, and the leak came back. It turns out the seals from Autozone & Advanced Autoparts are DIFFERENT even though they both are listed for my 2004 WJ. They visually look different, one doesn't sit all the way. I forget which was the good one, but my mechanic compared them both to the deal seals & got the one that matched that & I haven't had an issue since.

If it runs, steers, and stops, it's good.
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post #12 of 15 Old 09-13-2020, 09:00 PM
The Happy Friar
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BTW, I bought a 3/8" torque wrench THAT DAY.

If it runs, steers, and stops, it's good.
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-16-2020, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
Whoop92
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Hi All,

(Sorry for not posting my year [2001] and engine [4.7]. Iíll remember for next time because you know there will be one. Also, if FSM means factory service manual then I do have a paper version of it.)

Thanks for all of the advice. Sorry itís has taken so long to get back to you but getting the new pads and bolt and turning the rotors took a bit of time.

Iíve taken a few steps towards fixing all of this. Steps are listed below:

First, the wheel. The wheel is toast. I aired up the tire and found two air leaks on the inside wall of the wheel itself.

Second, the tire. I didnít find any leaks but you can tell the spot that was dragged when the wheel was locked. Iíll take it to the tire place to see if it is salvageable for anything but a swing.

Third, the rotors. Both front rotors were turned to make sure that they were still true and within tolerances as they are upwards of 8 years old.

Fourth, the bracket. The bracket only has one small mark on it where it made contact with the inside of the wheel. It went right back on to its bolts with no trouble.

Fifth, the caliper. The caliper gave me more trouble than normal when I was getting it back on the bracket. It was like the new pads were just a hair too thick to let the rotor between them while fitting the caliper on the bracket. I checked the brake lines and everything looked dry and normal.

Everything got torqued down to specs in the manual (lesson learned) and the Jeep now moves under its own power with all four tires rotating backwards and forwards.

Questions:
If I replace the left front caliper, should I replace all four calipers at the same time? As far as I know they are original to the Jeep.

About that leaking axle. Iím pretty sure that I damaged the seal when I installed the new axle assemblies like Bigrigr suggested. Thanks for the utube links showing how to replace the seals. Iíve got a couple of questions about that.

1. The manual shows several specialized tools to remove the differential case from the pumpkin, install the axle seals and measure the distances between the gears. None of the videos show them being used. Is it OK to not use the ďcorrect toolsĒ to do the axle seals?

2. Since Iím already working with the differential, should I replace the pinon seal even if it is not leaking? That leads to the same question about using the ďcorrect toolsĒ: Are the tools listed in the manual essential?

3. About the outer seals for the axles, I can see why they would be good for mudding but would they be bad to use when you only off-road occasionally? The roads I drive will change from city streets to off-road and mud in a few years. Would it be worth it to install them now or ever?

Again, Thanks so much for the help, advice and experience!
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post #14 of 15 Old 09-16-2020, 10:51 PM
Bigrigr
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I have seen those inner seals replaced before without special tools. I watched a guy use all thread and sockets to drive the seals in/out. It has to be pretty long to reach all the way through the axle tubes, but it was much cheaper than the tools they want you to buy. It would be a good time to change the pinion seal, however, if your not comfortable with pinion turning torque specs, and crush sleeves, you may not want to mess with it.



The outer add on seals seem cool, but i have seen anyone use them. Around here they are like unicorns-we all know they come up in conversation, but they are still unseen. (And we play in Moab regularly)

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #15 of 15 Old 09-17-2020, 05:45 AM
HarryH3
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Don't worry about outer seals. They would occupy the same space on a WJ as the inner end of the axle CV boots.
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