HID Retrofit writeup with pics -- TRS mini H1s - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 35 Old 01-22-2015, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
NU_WJ
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Wj HID Retrofit writeup with pics -- TRS mini H1s

So after thoroughly roaming the interwebs and JF, I finally decided to pull the trigger on an HID system from theretrofitsource.com. I was sick of barely being able to tell my lights were on, even after re-conditioning my lenses to clear out the fogging.

I discussed with a few guys over at TRS and decided to go with the mini H1's to keep the custom fabrication work at a minimum (since this would be my first retrofit). I know there are a few other detailed writeups on here, but most seemed to be on the larger FX-R projectors that require significantly more custom fab. Anyways, here's what I went with for this project:

HID System Parts (all from TRS):
-Morimoto Mini H1 6.0 (LHD) projectors
-Morimoto XB35 (35W) ballasts
-H1: XB35 5500K bulbs
-Iris shrouds (with concentric rings)
-Morimoto XB Igniter (AMP)
-HD Relay: 9006 wiring harness
-High beam splitters
-OCI Butyl Rubber Glue (didn't use it though)

Headlamp Housings (ebay):
-I have an '01 WJ which had the traditional Laredo headlamp housings (black interior with amber lenses). Decided to upgrade to the later Laredo housings (black interior with clear lenses), as I prefer that over the all-chrome housings. Ordered these new from ebay and, based on other recommendations, went with the "Eagle Eye" brand to avoid the difficulty in getting the OEM housings apart. Taking these apart was a piece of cake.

Tools and Supplies:
Dremel tool w/ various cutting and grinding wheels
JB Weld
Clamps
Kitchen Oven (or heat gun)
Flathead and Philips screwdrivers
Channel locks
9V battery,
Zip ties,


Started off with the new headlight housings fresh out of the box.


These came with bulbs pre-installed so remove these, along with the 4 metal clips, 2 rubber grommets with plastic plates (where bulbs are secured), and the 2 small rubber vent tubes. Leave the headlamp adjustment screw assembly attached however. Also, be sure to remove the small chrome piece that would have covered the old halogen bulb (one screw that is accessed from the back side). This will leave a small hole that you can then use to run the projector actuator wires back.




Keep all the bits and pieces together…they’ll be going back on once we’re done:



Pop the housing in the oven at 225* F for about 6-7 minutes. **be sure to place on a piece of wood or something to avoid the plastic housing melting on the metal rack!


Once out of the oven (be careful it'll be toasty), begin by pulling the housing lens off starting at the pointed end (where it would be closest to the WJ’s grill). There is a lip on the side marker lamp side, so leave that for last. You may need to use a flathead screwdriver to get it started, but once it's open, slowly work your way around, making sure that the stringy sealant is cut as you go. You really want to avoid getting the sealant on anything (reflector bowl, housing lens, etc.). It's a huge pain to remove later. Once apart, here's what you’re looking at:


Now for the fun stuff: Here's the total kit from TRS:


Be sure to unpack and make sure everything is there. Also, test the projectors ~40 times with a 9V battery to ensure that the actuator is properly functioning.


In order to get the projector to sit far enough back in the reflector, you will need to dremel out the “lip” of the reflector bowl. Here’s a before, during, and after. I could have taken a little more out, but I wanted to keep the hole as close to perfectly round as possible (in hopes of minimizing the adjustments needed later on, which did pay off).








Place the small silicone washer over the projector threads and mount the projector in the reflector bowl (run the wires back through the small hole as well).



Use the hex bolt from the included hardware to hold the projector in place, but be sure to ONLY HAND TIGHTEN for now. The threads will deform once it’s fully tightened, so don’t fully tighten till later. Note, the clear plastic plate is show here, but this will be removed and dremel’d out in the next step to allow enough space for the rest of the bulb mounting hardware to fit.



Now you need the projector to sit far enough “back” behind the reflector bowl to have enough of the projector threads sitting “behind” the back of the hex bolt. You need to make sure there is enough space for the three “prongs” of the bulb mounting plate to sit “down” so as to be FLUSH with the projector. If this is not achieved, your bulb will not be seated properly and you’ll get a bad beam pattern at the end. So take extra time to make sure this is done right.




In order to get the needed depth, I had to dremel the clear plastic plate (the one that previously held in the halogen bulb. Since this is no longer needed, I wasn’t concerned with it. Just be very careful when using the dremel to not crack the clear plastic. My cut line isn’t perfect, but as you can see there is now enough room for the entire 3-pronged bulb mounting plate (and wiring clip) to clear the plastic ring. This gave me enough space to get the bulb mounting plate “down” far enough.



Also, here’s how I ran the actuator wires. Just a small cut in the rubber grommet.


Now place the small (red) rubber grommets on the actuator wires (included from TRS) and then insert into the plastic harness. Polarity needs to be correct, so check the instructions on TRS’s website to make sure you insert the correct wire on the correct side.



So here’s the setup so far:


Now time to address the shrouds:
Once side is flat and did not need to be cut


Now, with a little trial and error, shape the top side of the shroud using a dremel cutting wheel. Remember, you can always take off more later. So go bit by bit until you’ve taken off enough to allow the shroud to sit back on the projector far enough to allow the headlamp housing lens fit back on without hitting the shroud. Here’s the profile of how much I took off the top-side of the shrouds


So here’s about what I’m left with at this point, with the headlight housing now placed loosely back onto the housing.


Don’t put the headlamp housing lens back on for good yet…just place it lightly back in place for the purpose of making sure the lens clears the shrouds. With everything fitting decently, now’s a good time to thoroughly clean everything (shrouds, reflector bowl, bulbs, etc.) and go ahead and mount the HID bulb in the projector and secure with the provided retaining clips. No need to keep the lenses on at this point too, since you’re going to want those off when you take the housings to the jeep for initial alignment.


With the projectors initially mounted for both sides, it’s now time to get the WJ wired up. Go ahead and pull the OEM housings out and disconnect. I placed the relay on the heat shield next to the air intake. Notice the holes pre-drilled just to the right of the relay (this is where I’m mounting the driver’s side ballast). A ground connection was readily available in this area too (you can see the black glossy wire at the very bottom right-hand corner of the picture…that’s the ground)


The (+) lead wire for the battery connection was just long enough to run in front of the radiator and connect to the (+) terminal. I zip tied together both the (+) power lead and the cable for the other (passenger side) ballast, both of which were in turn zip-tied to the supporting frame behind the grill (had to remove the grill pieces to gain access). The other ballast was placed behind the passenger side headlight, below the Jeep’s relay box.

Now, go ahead and connect the ballasts to the bulbs and place the now-connected housings back into the header panel and secure. Now turn on the headlights. With any luck, you’ll see something along these lines:


You can adjust the pattern as needed by turning the projectors (clockwise/counterclockwise as needed) and also by using the headlamp adjustment screw behind the headlamp housing (for up/down adjustments). Once you’re happy with how things line up, turn off lights and disconnect/remove the HID housings. Now it’s time to lock everything down for good.

In order to avoid messing up the adjustments just made, I removed the HID bulb and marked the back with a sharpie as shown here.



Now remove the 3-pronged bulb mounting plate and keep everything lined up as best you can while you now tighten the hex-bolt down permanently with channel locks. Remember, once this is tightened you will not be able to make much if any adjustments to the mounting position of the projector.

Next step is to permanently secure the shrouds. Mix up some JB weld and place on the outer portion of the concentric ring and mount the concentric ring inside the shroud.


Let this set up for a couple hours. Once solid, now mix up some more JB weld and secure the shroud (with concentric ring affixed) to the projector itself. Once this is mounted let it set up for a couple hours to make sure the shroud is locked down for good. Be careful not to use too much JB weld, as you don’t want it seeping out and getting on the projector lens.

Now go back and clean everything up (shrouds, reflectors, housings, etc.). Make sure you get this done now b/c it’s your last chance before everything is back together.

In order to get the housing back together with the lens, go ahead and press the two together when still cold (the remaining glue will be tacky enough to hold things loosely together). Then pop it back in the oven at 225* for 6-7 minutes again. Once out of the oven, make sure the headlight lens fits back into the groove of the housing all the way around. You can then use the small metal clips (that you removed earlier) and a set of clamps to secure the lens in place overnight while it cools down and solidifies.

With everything back together and cooled off, go ahead and mount your new HID housings back to the WJ and you should get something like this


Make any final adjustments up/down using the headlamp housing adjustment screw and you’re now done ☺


Final Thoughts:

The difference from before and after is huge. The pics just don’t do it justice. Now I can drive with full confidence and ability to see what the heck is in front on me. Big props to the guys at TRS too…fantastic support. And not to mention the quality and performance of the parts involved. This was a straightforward retrofit that anyone can execute.


Here’s the results:

Before:


After


Headlamp



Let me know your thoughts or opinions. Hope this can help someone considering this project…I highly recommend it. Total game-changer.

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post #2 of 35 Old 01-22-2015, 05:54 PM
JTS97Z28
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VERY nice install looks great. I recently did a custom install as well using the TRS mini H1 6.0's with the XB35 bulbs. It looks like you did a excellent job, the only thing I want to mention is that you just need to adjust the aim of the lights a little. A lot of people think the right side gets aimed slightly higher than the left side to creat a step. That is not true, the lights should be aimed the same in both sides. So the lower steps should be at the same height for the left and right side and same for the upper step. Not like you have where the right side lower step is at same height as the left side upper step. Make sense? Easy fix though just a slight headlight aiming change.
I also found that these bulbs need to be fine tuned and adjusted in the bulb holder (possibly using small spacers). As you can see in the pictures above the hotspots are not consistant and are too low. Basically, the hotspot should be centered at the step and cut half way through. Doing this will result in the best output. What you can do is pull the bulb holder clip out and move the bulb throughout in the projector. You will see how the hotspot position can be moved in relation to the bulb position. Get it where you want using eone sort of spacer and you should be good. I'm just being nitpicky because I can tell you do really good work, but I nticied the slight lack of quality in the bulb fitment of the Mini H1's paired with their H1 bulbs.
Here is a link to my write up on HID planet so you can see what I did.

Awesome work, that looks amazing!!

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...Grand+cherokee
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post #3 of 35 Old 01-23-2015, 06:15 AM
texinteg
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Do you have an actual link to the complete kit you bought?
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post #4 of 35 Old 01-23-2015, 07:40 AM
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Also, minus the cost of the headlights, what did this run you?

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- Some more stuff


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This is easily the worst post, and thread, I have ever seen in 7 years of being on JF.
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post #5 of 35 Old 01-26-2015, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
NU_WJ
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JTS: Thanks for the kind words and suggestions. I'll definitely try and make some slight adjustments to the bulb fitting to improve the "hotspots", along with making the simple height adjustment to avoid the "step-up" look. I'd agree about the quality of the bulb fitment as well. I had to adjust the prongs of the bulb mounting plate somewhat to get the 3 small screws properly set (so as to allow the bulb enough clearance to fit into the projector). If there's a complaint on the quality side of things, that would be the only one.

textinteg: I don't have an actual link to my kit. I was a bit confused on their website and in order to make sure I didn't order the wrong thing, I just gave them a call and ordered it over the phone. They were super helpful and made sure I got everything I needed, including the splitters for the dual high-beams (HID + stock halogens).

Jeeples: The total cost for the kit through TRS was $325, plus $13.66 in shipping. However I called and ordered my setup when they were running a 15% off discount right around Christmas. So that brought it down to $289.91.
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post #6 of 35 Old 04-24-2015, 10:44 PM
vmo23
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Saw this linked from another post, gonna bring it up from the dead. Looks great! I bought those same Eagle Eye headlights for my retrofit. Stock headlights were severely hazy/cloudy.

Heads up on the Eagle Eye headlights though. Be sure to put some protective film on the headlights because they deteriorate quickly! I used a film from lamin-x.com.
The exterior on the headlight just started stripping away after a year. I had to use one of those polish kits to buff out a clear layer. Added the film afterward. Cheap way to protect your investment.
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post #7 of 35 Old 04-24-2015, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
NU_WJ
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Thanks. Yeah great call on the protective layer for the Eagle Eye housings. Best to protect the investment. That's going on my to-do list asap.
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post #8 of 35 Old 04-27-2015, 11:37 PM
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Nice writeup bro,i like the bright light output.

2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8

2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 5.7 Hemi
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post #9 of 35 Old 04-29-2015, 08:29 AM
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That's clean. If somebody wanted you to do this for them do yo have an idea what you would charge?
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post #10 of 35 Old 04-29-2015, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Let me think about it. It's a decent amount of work, but I guess I'd be interested in seeing what the numbers would have to be. Where are you located?
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post #11 of 35 Old 04-29-2015, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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You in Boulder? If so, that would potentially remove the hassle of shipping. I'm down in Denver.
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post #12 of 35 Old 04-29-2015, 05:41 PM
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..........
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post #13 of 35 Old 05-08-2015, 12:23 PM
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I'm totally new to this headlight modification so it took me a lot of reading before I could figure it out. I'd like to try and explain it in simpler terms for people like me now that I have done it.
The hardest part for me was the "baking the headlight to get the cover off." My 2004 WJ might have a different glue because 230 degrees for 15 minutes didn't even phase the glue. I ended up using a screwdriver, heat gun, and deforming the black plastic. Then, after the clear headlight cover is off, I used the heat gun to reshape the black plastic case back to normal. It's ok since it's not visible once the headlight is back on the suv.

Basically, the "Bi-xenon HID mod" seems to roughly double the light output of BOTH your low beams and high beams by changing only the low beam side of your headlight.
Simply plugging in an HID bulb instead of an OEM bulb will make your low beam burn out the eyes of oncoming traffic and not improve your high beam performance.
The Bi-xenon projector lens fixes this by both lowering the low beam light and also magnifying the light when you activate high beams. So you need both.
Extra good news is that, when you activate your high beams, you will now have FOUR high beams. The two normal OEM ones and the two projected HID ones.

Starting with only a pair of wire strippers and electric tape, I ordered the following from DDM tuning. I chose DDM tuning because the base of the projector is long enough to avoid needing to grind the shiny reflector.
Item Qty Brief Description Rate Amount
Projectors-H1-V2-Pair 1 DDM Tuning H1 Projectors, V2, Pair $39.95 $39.95
DDM35W.H1.4500K 1 DDM HID Kit, 35W, H1, 4500K $29.95 $29.95
Shrouds-V2/3-H1-Projector-Pair 1 H1 projector shrouds for V2 and V3 H1 projectors, Pair $9.95 $9.95
Total $79.85

So for about $80 you can double the light output of your WJ. Well worth it.

I took about 20 pics that you can see in my PUBLIC ALBUM and I will try to put a few key ones here.

Here you can see the wiring layout and the projector wires spliced onto the OEM high beam wires. Also you can see where I drilled a hole in the black case to enable the projector wires to reach the OEM high beam wires.


This is how I spliced the wires together.


This is the Bi-Xenon HID low beam on left vs the OEM low beam on right.


Here you can see how I modified the anti-spin ring to fit a WJ.

2015 JKU Manual Transmission, Lift Kit
2004 WJ - 6cyl - NV242 & 42RE Still running great
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post #14 of 35 Old 05-08-2015, 12:41 PM
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where did u get that ring from the anti spin
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post #15 of 35 Old 05-08-2015, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silent3k View Post
where did u get that ring from the anti spin
Two anti-spin rings come with the DDM kit, supposedly one fits whatever car you have, but the smaller one only fit the WJ after I ground a groove into the side.

2015 JKU Manual Transmission, Lift Kit
2004 WJ - 6cyl - NV242 & 42RE Still running great
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