HELP my awesome WJ DD is dying! - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 05-10-2019, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
sdjp
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HELP my awesome WJ DD is dying!

Hi everyone, I need help ASAP!


My awesome 02' WJ 4.7, 242 select-trac, 545RFE with 180K miles is acting crazy.



In 2WD it acts like it's in 4WD LOW or PART-TIME on dry pavement, wheels binding. I jacked it up and spun the fronts, they spin freely and independent of each other. I get codes P0700 TCM malfunction and P1899 Park Neutral Safety Switch Circuit Conditions.



I can drive around in 4WD FULL TIME (this is ok to do with the 242) but when shifting from park to reverse, or park to drive there is a bit of a delay before I can actually get going and my usually fast torquey throttle response is gone, now it's sluggish.



History: Six months ago I was having an ignition problem with WJ starting. Had a new PCM flashed by the VIN, that didn't do it. Eventually did the MOPAR solenoid pack replacement/ update in the transmission to fix potential Nuetral Safety Switch cause. (4.7's don't have an independent NSS, it's part of the solenoid pack). It worked. Immediately after install I noticed a little lag in shifting from park to reverse or drive as mentioned above but it wasn't as bad as it is now. I had chalked it up to the new parts and maybe that's how it's supposed to be stock, as my rig is so old. NEVER HAD ANY CODES until yesterday.



Last detail, and I'm not even sure this is related. When at idle (not while driving) I feel through the contact with gas pedal and slightly hear this groaning sound, not like an engine racing, like the engine is being strained. It's hard to describe. It doesn't sound healthy. If I put the tranny in neutral the strain remains. If I hit the gas a bit it subsides. All fluid are new and full.



ADVICE PLEASE!!! I have another Jeep but it's stored out in Moab so this is my only transportation for the kids and me. Thanks

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post #2 of 20 Old 05-10-2019, 07:02 AM
jtec
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thoughts -

I see p0700, often other codes are associated with this , you may need to use a scanner to check trans codes, try a FREE scan at auto zone advance et al. FREE.

You did use ATF4 trans fluid not universal or one type fits all just ATF4?
With solenoid pac? did you do both filters?

What did you do for the p1899?

Any chance you have the original PCM?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #3 of 20 Old 05-10-2019, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for input...

I used MOPAR ATF4 68218057AB from the dealer. I try not to skimp on the stuff that matters.

Yes I still have original PCM, I see where you're going with this. I will re-install and see where we're at...great idea!

For the solenoid pack I did this MOPAR kit which included both filters, solenoid block with TRS update plate, and gaskets

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Jeep-...frcectupt=true

Will get some FREE scans done today and post what it says.

I haven't done anything for the P1899, only read the codes yesterday with the ignition trick.
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post #4 of 20 Old 05-10-2019, 07:59 AM
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Agreed with JTEC on this...often times the P0700 code is just displayed as a generic place holder for the codes stored in the TCM, I'm unsure if it's because the BCM can't pull the info stored in the TCM or if it was purposely done to steer folks to dealerships for repair.


I'm more inclined to think it's the later as my 2011 Ram 1500 won't display certain codes via the key trick either, but rather than displaying a generic code it will just show a series of dashes on the odometer.

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- Some more stuff


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This is easily the worst post, and thread, I have ever seen in 7 years of being on JF.
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post #5 of 20 Old 05-10-2019, 08:03 AM
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Brian if you suspect any issues with the TCM send me an email or call I'll stop at the yard and pull one for you and get it on the way.
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post #6 of 20 Old 05-10-2019, 10:27 AM
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Nice of you Waterluvr.

This may not be your problem but I'd check/clean some of your grounds. On the right/passenger side 4.7 engine block just to the rear of the motor mount is G102 where all 4 ground wires connect to the TCM with line pressure sensor spliced into one of them.

The block grounds are easiest to get to by jacking up the body to create room between the axle/unibody. And you might as well check/clean G103 while you're there since there's 2 PCM grounds at that location. You can see photos of G102 & G103 in the 'edit/addition' section at the end of the below ground write-up.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310.../#post39199282

Note the 1st photo which comes up at the above link is the G108 ground on the far back inner passenger side fender next to PDC and in front of reservoir. This ground is for the trans control relay and TCM so another one to check/clean.

You should also check in the PDC the TCM relay (#31), TCM power fuse (#5, 30a) and TCM fuse (#28, 15a). Below is a diagram showing the locations.

http://wjjeeps.com/misc/power_dist_ctr_02.jpg

Check wiring around the transmission to make sure it also doesn't have problems and good luck.
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post #7 of 20 Old 05-12-2019, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:

Waterluvr, yes THANK YOU for the offer, I'll keep you in the loop. My gut tells me it's not the TCM as I don't recall any performance changes when I installed the re-flashed one. It didn't fix the no start issue but didn't hurt anything either. I'm still going to swap it today to see if that helps.

Got scans: When I drove to the auto store a couple things happened. CODE P0700 TCM Malfunction went away and it showed:

CODE P1899 Park/ Neutral switch stuck in park or gear
CODE P0841 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/ Switch A Circuit Range/ Performance

Oddly enough when I drove to auto store 2wd wasn't locking up anymore. I attribute this to when I jacked up the front end to check if the front axle was spinning free and clear and left and right sides independent of each other. I believe maybe when spinning the wheels I may have cleared any lock up in the drive shaft? or possible jacking it up moved the transfer case fluid or transmission around to make an impact on the shifter plate?

I haven't been brave enough to change the transfer case setting as I still need to drive it.

Working the grounds now as UniBlurb suggested. Thank you guys. Happy Mother's Day to yours!
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post #8 of 20 Old 05-12-2019, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Uniblurb,


I'm missing fuse 28 (15a) in the PDC although it appears that the slot was manufactured to not accept a fuse, even though the label on the inset of the PDC lists it as the TCM (15a). Thoughts?


My G108 ground (passenger side inner fender near engine coolant) is extremely clean, I use that for a few other grounds from aftermarket items and maintain it regularly.


The G102 and G103 on the other hand are rusty and corroded; going to get those cleaned up.



I did a thorough inspection of all electrical connectors around the transmission and transfer case, disconnected everything to inspect and reinstalled to ensure it was solid. All was good except for the Transmission Pressure Sensor, the metal tabs and plastic on the inside of the connector are clean but surrounding the sensor on the outside looks like it's been leaking, as evident from the black crud built up around it.



Saw a video of a Durango with same tranny doing a TPS replacement and it had a heat shield over this sensor, which I donít have, or think I've ever had. I wonder if my 3" Kolak exhaust could have warped the seal enough for it to leak? May go to a junkyard and pick one of these shields up, and replace the TPS of course.
.

The shield is shown around 2:30 of the video if interested.

Drove the WJ around a mile today. 2WD appeared to function properly but noticed the speedometer flutter rapidly a few times which signals somethings not right.



to be continued...
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post #9 of 20 Old 05-13-2019, 03:44 AM Thread Starter
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Found this attachment online, looks like if the TPS goes bad, it can cause the transmission to lock into gear. Could also be that my newly installed solenoid isn't working out. At any rate I ordered a Mopar TPS as the first course of action as it is the cheaper of the two, and MUCH easier to replace.
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post #10 of 20 Old 05-13-2019, 08:01 AM
jtec
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IIRC PDC fuse fuse #28 is not used on 4.7L.

Looks like a TRS WIRING or switch issue. I would work the P1899 first.

P1899-TRS PERFORMANCE, Set Condition: This code will set if the PCM detects an incorrect Park/Neutral switch state for a given mode of vehicle operation.

P0841-LR PRESSURE SWITCH SENSE CIRCUIT, The appropriate code is set if one of the pressure switches are open or closed at the wrong time in a given gear .


That speedo issue, look at alternator output, look at DIODES also - an easy check.

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #11 of 20 Old 05-15-2019, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Cleaned 102 and 103 grounds beautifully. That didn’t change anything but I feel better that they’re solid so eh.

Swapped to the original PCM. No check engine light for the typical mile then it popped. Good news is I was not surprised.

This leaves me to believe it’s the solenoid pack install I did. It seemed pretty straightforward and I’m not one to rush a project but I must of messed something up or my WJ doesn’t like the upgraded shifter plate and “white plug” that is the new version. I wonder if I should try to find the old version somewhere (junkyard or online) or buy a new solenoid pack again. I’d hate to go through the process of opening everything up to inspect and just leaving that part in there.

Going to work the alternator output measurements next. Thank you again to everyone for helping me through this. It’s comforting to feel I’m part of a team and have a place to be accountable and share progress so that others may learn.
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post #12 of 20 Old 05-15-2019, 05:48 PM
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Keep in mind the 4.7 is an all electronically controlled transmission and unlike the 4.0 has a separate control module aka the TCM, on the 4.0 the pcm has the drivers but they are separate on the 4.7L.
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post #13 of 20 Old 05-15-2019, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Waterluvr

ooooooohhhhhh snap. Do you think it'd be a good course of action to get a re-flashed TCM then?

FYI, since I swapped in my old (original) PCM the WJ has now been dying when I stop at traffic lights! It starts up no problem but geeze. I've had this happen a few times before but only when I JAM on the brakes HARD, believe it's the brake booster robbing the engine of air. But now it's happening when I gently roll to a stop from 25mph. Not every time but this is a big safety issue for me, especially with my kids in the car.

So I'll be swapping my re-flashed PCM back in.
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post #14 of 20 Old 05-15-2019, 06:42 PM
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I suspected your original pcm had some IAC driver issues when we did the replacement, seems like you've been better off running with the replacement up to the time this new issue has started?

The TCM's don't have to be flashed on the 4.7 WJ's they can drop right in and they are not expensive at all (sub $40.00 most yards), not saying that's your issue here if we could scan it and test drive we'd know 100% in short order but just keep it in mind as your working on this.

Btw how's things with the veteran's mobility Jeep program doing? I sure appreciate what you guys's are doing there man really outstanding work ~I need more sticker's one of these day's I plastered them all over our Jeeps and boats and they do get noticed.
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post #15 of 20 Old 05-16-2019, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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Waterluvr, yes and thank you. The new PCM you graciously sent out has been working great. I figured it was worth a shot to see if swapping in the original would fix this P1899 issue. I'm putting yours back in first thing this morning.



That's great news on the TCM's not needing to be flashed. I'm going to head to pick-n-pull ASAP and see what I can find.


Military Mobility has been going great, thanks for the interest. We recently returned from two weeks in Moab for EJS19, where we met a ton of amazing folks and and had some memorable times. We moderately built up a LJ, drove it straight from Virginia Beach, VA to Salt Lake City in 36 hrs. (it can go 95mph with ZERO driveline vibes at any speed), hooked up to a 3500 lb enclosed trailer and towed it to Moab, then did 12 straight hours up on Poison Spyder Mesa. All with no mechanical issues and tons of performance and fun. Most military folks don't have lots of money, our goal was to show you can build a do it all rig without totally breaking the bank. It takes education, sound driver skills, and commitment to maintenance; all a metaphor for the health and wellness to preserve your health and well being. I'll be sure to send more stickers your way!



For those that are interested (hope this is alright administrators, it's a 501c3 non-profit)


https://militarymobility.com/


https://www.instagram.com/militarymobility/
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