Heater core replacement - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 10-02-2021, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
Pugulis
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Heater core replacement

Ok, I've got a really stupid idea. I need to replace my heater core, as it is leaking. I've seen the walkthroughs and videos. And it's going to take forever. I was thinking about cutting an access hole, through the firewall. I have the I6, so it looks like I'll have room. Has anyone ever attempted this?


[_][]☺[][][]☺[][_] RIP to my 96' Grand Cherokee Laredo 344,700 miles and welcome to my new 2001 WJ
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post #2 of 13 Old 10-02-2021, 09:26 PM
sdg3205
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And then cut open the heater box? and then what, JB weld the plastic and then weld back in the firewall? Seems like more work to me.

Doing it properly isn't hard, just takes some time.

Any particular reason you want to go that route?
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post #3 of 13 Old 10-02-2021, 09:28 PM
Azhunter1
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The hardest part is laying in the floor board to get the heater box out. While you are in there you should swap out the blower motor for the newer high speed turbo motor its worth the time.
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post #4 of 13 Old 10-02-2021, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
Pugulis
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I'm not talking about removing it from the inside. I'm talking about the engine side. It looks as though I could cut out the firewall, and just pull the heater core straight out.

[_][]☺[][][]☺[][_] RIP to my 96' Grand Cherokee Laredo 344,700 miles and welcome to my new 2001 WJ
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post #5 of 13 Old 10-02-2021, 09:46 PM
sdg3205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pugulis View Post
I'm not talking about removing it from the inside. I'm talking about the engine side. It looks as though I could cut out the firewall, and just pull the heater core straight out.

Yes I realize what youíre taking about.

The heater core isnít sitting out in the open, itís in the HVAC box with the relevant ducting and doors, so once the fire wall is cut out youíre still dealing with the heater box
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post #6 of 13 Old 10-02-2021, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
Pugulis
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This is what the back of the heater box looks like.
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[_][]☺[][][]☺[][_] RIP to my 96' Grand Cherokee Laredo 344,700 miles and welcome to my new 2001 WJ
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post #7 of 13 Old 10-03-2021, 02:08 PM
gdk771
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It's not that simple like the other guys said..

Take a look at these YouTube videos and you will understand what everyone is trying to tell you. The heater core is not just "there" after you cut through the firewall, there is a entire heater duct box / wiring / stuff behind it. I hope it is OK to post YouTube links on the forum.







If the leak is not too bad and you need to buy some time you could try some blue devil radiator sealer but this is just a temporary band aid. I would not recommend any other sealers and they will probably just clog your cooling passages. the blue devil works IF you follow the directions to the letter. The best way is to flush the system and run it with water and the sealer. Here is another YouTube video about that..




Hope this helps..
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post #8 of 13 Old 10-03-2021, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
Pugulis
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I've watched all the videos. Yes, it is just there, right behind the firewall. There are no wires or anything. Look at the picture I shared. That is exactly what it looks like behind the firewall. If I had a V8, I wouldn't even think about it. But because I have an I6, it gives me more room. That's why I was curious if anyone has tried it.

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post #9 of 13 Old 10-03-2021, 02:30 PM
gdk771
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Maybe someone else will chime in but I have never heard of anyone who has tried this. I plan to replace my heater core eventually as i have a leaking HVAC evaporator core and I also plan to replace the heater blend doors /motor and blower while I have the dash out so I don't have to do this again anytime soon. If you do get this to work please post pictures and let us know how it turns out.
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post #10 of 13 Old 10-03-2021, 04:12 PM
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Do it ! You got this !
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post #11 of 13 Old 10-05-2021, 08:37 PM
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Done this job twice. Firewall cutting will add time rather than help. There is almost no laying on the floor involved. Dash disassembly is top down with either friction locks or screws with simple access. The rest of the inside involves dropping several control boards to access 4 side 10 mm bolts. Shifter cover moves out of way. Ducting removes easily. Electrical connector are all visible.
Under the hood is a matter of unstacking ww washer bottle or expansion tank, pcm bracket and connectors then weasiling out the pcm. Then about 4 10 mm studs.
Once hvac housing is on bench it has to be split and the heater core and evaporator are sealed and captivated by each other.
It will be very important that reassembly is quality.
Also of note is that the core removes from the housing vertically toward. The upper dash. Cutting Up would completely destroy the housing.
Total time first job for me was 12 hours including coolant drain and refill and ac evacuation and recharge. Second time was 4-5 hours.
WJ hvac is a weak point.
Directional door and actuator breakage is very high due to systems limit finding design.
Excellent all aluminum blend door kits are available and I highly recommend that upgrade even if they are fine now. You'll get fresh foam sealing. AND you will not have to do the job again.
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post #12 of 13 Old 10-10-2021, 07:40 PM
Wjinnc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azhunter1 View Post
The hardest part is laying in the floor board to get the heater box out. While you are in there you should swap out the blower motor for the newer high speed turbo motor its worth the time.
Hey do you have a link to where I can get one of those?
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post #13 of 13 Old 10-10-2021, 10:29 PM
Azhunter1
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PM102 is the part number at Oreilly's and Autozone.
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