Has your WJ dash been removed in the past? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 22 Old 08-09-2019, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
Frambo
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Has your WJ dash been removed in the past?

I'm after some information here guys

I had my WJ dash removed to do blend doors, heater, ac evap etc. this week. Was done by my local 4X4 specialists who've done the job before and are very competent and experienced old time mechanics.

On the ride home I noticed a lot more noise than normal from the exterior. Engine noise, noise of my horn (which is mounted near the firewall), and wind noise coming from the glovebox / below the glovebox area and isn't related to operation of the HVAC system.

Any ideas what this could be? Has anyone else had the same thing?
Could it simply be the firewall insulation not being tightly stuffed into position? Or are there any grommets in the firewall that could be unsealed, letting sound through. I read of someone who had the same issue and sprayed some foam somewhere but now I can't find the the thread!

Many thanks!

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post #2 of 22 Old 08-09-2019, 08:44 PM
CarlJH
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my guess is the foam seal for the hole where the heater and ac pipes goes through the firewall wasn't put back properly.
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post #3 of 22 Old 08-10-2019, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
Frambo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlJH View Post
my guess is the foam seal for the hole where the heater and ac pipes goes through the firewall wasn't put back properly.
Thank you! You're right, if I look there I can actually see light from the outside near the HVAC drain. But it looks like somehow the drain doesn't line up quite right with the hole in the firewall. I've snapped a pic - would be very grateful for comments or comparison images please!

Is there meant to be foam in the actual hole?
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post #4 of 22 Old 08-10-2019, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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I've figured it out. The drain hasn't been put into the hole at all - the drain exit is lower and on the interior side of the firewall and the hole has nothing in it. The box drain needs to be raised and positioned through the hole.

Does anyone know if you can move the drain pipe without moving the entire HVAC assembly and removing the dash?
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post #5 of 22 Old 08-10-2019, 12:42 PM
Uniblurb
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That's a poor fix on the shop's part and was going to say from your first pic they let the HVAC box hang rather than lifting it up to tighten the bolts/studs going through the outside firewall to the box.

But if the drain isn't even through the firewall that will definitively throw things off. Take it back and if the shops lucky they may be able loosen the box bolts up, lift the box up until the drain is through the hole, then tighten it down. But that isn't going to fix they didn't install new seals between box and firewall and appears they tore at least one on there. That's for them to figure out the fix since you shouldn't have to pay for shoddy work.

Below is a video showing the drain through the firewall and sure not easy to get to so good chance they'd have to line it up from the inside. Good luck.

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post #6 of 22 Old 08-10-2019, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
Frambo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
That's a poor fix on the shop's part and was going to say from your first pic they let the HVAC box hang rather than lifting it up to tighten the bolts/studs going through the outside firewall to the box.

But if the drain isn't even through the firewall that will definitively throw things off. Take it back and if the shops lucky they may be able loosen the box bolts up, lift the box up until the drain is through the hole, then tighten it down. But that isn't going to fix they didn't install new seals between box and firewall and appears they tore at least one on there. That's for them to figure out the fix since you shouldn't have to pay for shoddy work.

Below is a video showing the drain through the firewall and sure not easy to get to so good chance they'd have to line it up from the inside. Good luck.
Thanks, I'm grateful for the very helpful response!

In fact, being tightened down in that position has caused the housing to crack at the bend which I've slapped some duct tape on for now (visible in first pic). I totally understand what you mean. I can actually see the hole in the engine bay and poke my finger through it! For now I've taped it up to stop wind / water ingress and the vehicle is going back to the shop on the 19th anyway to replace the condenser and a few other bits. Hopefully as you say, they're able to get it back through by loosening the bolts and lifting it in.

This is the first time in years of being a customer that I've ever experienced an issue with their work and I've always found them to take a lot of pride in the job. I'm sure they will make it right and give me a another WJ to use while mine is being fixed.

You mention that they didn't install new seals between the box and the firewall. Any chance you can elaborate on this further? Which seals exactly and are they a specific part number or are we just talking about a bit of foam / rubber cut to size?
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post #7 of 22 Old 08-10-2019, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frambo View Post
Thanks, I'm grateful for the very helpful response!

In fact, being tightened down in that position has caused the housing to crack at the bend which I've slapped some duct tape on for now (visible in first pic). I totally understand what you mean. I can actually see the hole in the engine bay and poke my finger through it! For now I've taped it up to stop wind / water ingress and the vehicle is going back to the shop on the 19th anyway to replace the condenser and a few other bits. Hopefully as you say, they're able to get it back through by loosening the bolts and lifting it in.

This is the first time in years of being a customer that I've ever experienced an issue with their work and I've always found them to take a lot of pride in the job. I'm sure they will make it right and give me a another WJ to use while mine is being fixed.

You mention that they didn't install new seals between the box and the firewall. Any chance you can elaborate on this further? Which seals exactly and are they a specific part number or are we just talking about a bit of foam / rubber cut to size?
You're welcome and that's ridiculous of the shop to crack the box since they didn't have it lined up correctly when tightening everything down. And not good of them to not be able to work on it for another 9 days since you can't turn your AC on or the drain will empty water behind the box onto the floor.

With you being in the UK do you have the right-hand drive WG or the left-hand drive WJ? Also do you have AZC (auto zone control with digital temp readout) or manual temp control?

Below is a HVAC diagram for the LHD (left-hand drive) 04 WJ with AZC which is what I have. Those part numbers may be difficult to read but it may be a moot point since manufacturer of the seals is mostly discontinued anyway. Many have to make their own but it's not a good idea to use the cheapest foam.

Here's the diagram from the 04 parts list. There a 2nd page but it's just the same diagram with #39 listed as a 'Spring' and #40 listed as a 'Servo' which is the same part number as #6.
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WJ 04, HVAC box and parts, p.303 WJ FSM, full size shot.jpg  
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post #8 of 22 Old 08-10-2019, 09:26 PM
CarlJH
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Have looked at the 2001 parts list and the part numbers are the same for LHD and RHD
the drain seal is 5012696AA
Moparpartsgiant.com still lists them at $21
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post #9 of 22 Old 08-10-2019, 09:39 PM
2oldjeeps
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"and are very competent and experienced old time mechanics."


but they botched the job huh
step one is always,take it back where it was damaged
and where you paid money...
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post #10 of 22 Old 08-11-2019, 04:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2oldjeeps View Post
"and are very competent and experienced old time mechanics."


but they botched the job huh
step one is always,take it back where it was damaged
and where you paid money...
Exactly.... have THEM fix/stand by their work or you have a LIFETIME of issues on your hands.....

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post #11 of 22 Old 08-11-2019, 04:21 AM Thread Starter
Frambo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
You're welcome and that's ridiculous of the shop to crack the box since they didn't have it lined up correctly when tightening everything down. And not good of them to not be able to work on it for another 9 days since you can't turn your AC on or the drain will empty water behind the box onto the floor.
I'm not too bothered - I've not had A/C for months (in the hottest year the UK has ever experienced, no less - thankful mine has a sunroof!) whilst trying to find all the parts I needed. Getting parts for my Jeep is tricky over here as everything is now shipped from Italy and I'm told that the Fiat Chrysler in Italy isn't shipping things over until Brexit is resolved. So my options are either @Kolak or whatever can be found on dealer shelves in the UK. I had already decided to take it back on the 19th as they ran out of time to get everything that needed doing done, and I'm busy next week, so we agreed on the 19th. Another week without A/C really won't bother me. I'm going to say that if they can repair the crack in the box without replacing it, and get it into the firewall hole without removing it, I'm happy for them to do that without making a big deal and asking them to replace the box etc.

Quote:
With you being in the UK do you have the right-hand drive WG or the left-hand drive WJ? Also do you have AZC (auto zone control with digital temp readout) or manual temp control?
Mine is a Right hand drive WJ with AZC dual control

Quote:
Below is a HVAC diagram for the LHD (left-hand drive) 04 WJ with AZC which is what I have. Those part numbers may be difficult to read but it may be a moot point since manufacturer of the seals is mostly discontinued anyway. Many have to make their own but it's not a good idea to use the cheapest foam.

Here's the diagram from the 04 parts list. There a 2nd page but it's just the same diagram with #39 listed as a 'Spring' and #40 listed as a 'Servo' which is the same part number as #6.
Thanks for this!

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlJH View Post
Have looked at the 2001 parts list and the part numbers are the same for LHD and RHD
the drain seal is 5012696AA
Moparpartsgiant.com still lists them at $21
Thanks very much, will try to find one over here - have sent the part numbers to my local part guys so will wait to hear back. Cheers for taking the time to do that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2oldjeeps View Post
"and are very competent and experienced old time mechanics."


but they botched the job huh
step one is always,take it back where it was damaged
and where you paid money...
Yep true. I still stand by their professionalism. The way I see it, everyone makes mistakes, it's what you do when after that that sets apart the places that will gain a loyal customer following and the places that won't last very long. I was considering doing the job myself but given the complexity, decided to hand it over to them (and in doing so, pay more than the value of the Jeep!).

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeetleCamry View Post
Exactly.... have THEM fix/stand by their work or you have a LIFETIME of issues on your hands.....
Agree with you here. I've taken the trouble to explore the issue for them - I already e-mailed the owner on Friday night after driving the Jeep home commenting on increased noise, and now it's up to them to sort it out. They've worked on my Jeep for years and the owner drives a WJ himself (and gives me a spare when I give mine in) so I'd still rather take mine to them than anywhere else. I'm sure they'll work with me on this one

I hope to get a fair and fast resolution and will keep this thread updated.

Thanks everyone for helping me out with the advice and responses - the International Jeep community really is a wonderful thing!
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post #12 of 22 Old 08-11-2019, 08:54 PM
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Having a petrol WJ does help with sourcing parts from the US, I just ordered all 4 springs from Rockauto, placed the order on Friday and was on my doorstep Tuesday morning!
The cost worked out at 52 a corner with the shipping and VAT, plus they are made in the USA. cheaper ones on ebay but who knows what they are made from!
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post #13 of 22 Old 08-12-2019, 04:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlJH View Post
Having a petrol WJ does help with sourcing parts from the US, I just ordered all 4 springs from Rockauto, placed the order on Friday and was on my doorstep Tuesday morning!
The cost worked out at 52 a corner with the shipping and VAT, plus they are made in the USA. cheaper ones on ebay but who knows what they are made from!
Was that for the stock springs or Up Country springs?
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post #14 of 22 Old 08-12-2019, 05:28 AM Thread Starter
Frambo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlJH View Post
Having a petrol WJ does help with sourcing parts from the US, I just ordered all 4 springs from Rockauto, placed the order on Friday and was on my doorstep Tuesday morning!
The cost worked out at 52 a corner with the shipping and VAT, plus they are made in the USA. cheaper ones on ebay but who knows what they are made from!
Totally agree with you on this! Just today I was quoted 340 for an AC condenser. The exact same condenser is 56 on Rockauto and I can have it here as quickly as the one for 340 in the UK for less than 150 all in!


Update

Called the shop up this morning and explained what I believe to have happened. Owner apologised, agreed that the misfit of the drain has probably cracked the box and has promised to sort it out when I bring the Jeep in, in a week's time. In the mean time he's suggested that I might want to loosen the blower bolts a bit to try and get the thing under a bit less tension. He was ready to see me sooner but I'm away this week, returning Thursday.

This is the first time they've made a screw-up on my Jeep and they seem to be handling it just how I expected / would want them to. I can't really ask for much more than that!

Many thanks for all the super helpful replies in this thread!
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post #15 of 22 Old 08-12-2019, 10:35 AM
02Lightning
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You may be able to loosen the two bolts on the heater box at the floor, and then loosen the one under the hood and move the box into position. But that won't fix the crack in the plastic housing.

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