Fuel pump help needed! - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 07-04-2020, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
KKiowaTJ
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Fuel pump help needed!

So the ol lady's 03' Laredo 4.0l WJ died the other day as we were taking off for the day. Snap of the finger died and will only crank and will only stumble on starting fluid.

Codes were random miss fire, but I know that wouldn't cause a no start as that code has been there for a week while parts were on the way. It did pop up TPS code, so I replaced it and cleaned TB. Still cranks with no stumble or fire, but now popped up IAC p0505.

I can't hear the fuel pump kick on, so I checked the fuses and relays, swapped them and still nothing. At the Schrader valve on fuel rail, I get nothing coming out! No spray, no drip, nothing!
I assume it's the fuel pump itself. I would think if it was the filter/regulator it would spit out some fuel from the fuel rail. The reviews on parts house replacements and doing a search on here points to them being junk. Not sealing, leaking, fuel gauge problems etc.

I'd really like to keep it cheap as possible for the fact it's high miles and pretty rusted out. Along with her starting a new job which doubles her pay and she wants a JK/JL Rubicon unlimited! Is there a decent aftermarket drop in assembly worth a cap to get by? Or do I bite the bullet and buy a Bosch fuel pump sending unit?
Any help would be appreciated, couldn't find the answers I wanted in the search, and don't want to go through this a couple times! Thanks


MOPAR!
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post #2 of 7 Old 07-04-2020, 01:46 PM
jtec
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I would agree it sounds like a fuel pump.

in cab under dash fuse # 12 a 10amp,
PDC fuse #24 a 20amp.

the time effort aggravation to change pump makes the correct one the best option. We always suggest bosch, don't want to do it twice...

Consider the need for a rubicon. yeah lots of serious expensive toys but what do you use jeep for?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #3 of 7 Old 07-04-2020, 07:36 PM
helijeeper
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There is a video of a guy using a cut off wheel and cutting into the spare tire area to access it from the top.

I personally would never throw a bunch of sparks around a fuel tank but I would use some shears. Would make the job a lot easier especially if it's all rusted out and being replaced soon anyway.

New sheet metal, seem sealer, a few rivets and call it a day. Shaping the new metal probably the most time consuming part. But you could use the old piece and get inventive. Just use tape on your drill bit to keep depth in check.

Just saying if it's truly a beater and a salvage title like mine then why not build an access port. LoL

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post #4 of 7 Old 07-05-2020, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
KKiowaTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
I would agree it sounds like a fuel pump.

in cab under dash fuse # 12 a 10amp,
PDC fuse #24 a 20amp.

the time effort aggravation to change pump makes the correct one the best option. We always suggest bosch, don't want to do it twice...

Consider the need for a rubicon. yeah lots of serious expensive toys but what do you use jeep for?

I'll check those, but I'm fairly certain it's the pump. Don't want to do it once lol, so that's why I'm going with a Bosch and be done.

I had a 99' TJ that I dumped thousands of dollars into before they came out with the Rubicon model, and it was still lacked in some areas! I used to drive it all over the country to off road parks, Moab etc. I figured I'd be money ahead if I went with a Rubicon with factory lockers, 4:1 transfer case, 44's front and rear that can hold up to a 5.13 gear.
I have kids now so a 4 door would allow more room for everyone and everything. Plus add fix all the weak link parts and be able to drive to and from trails and parks again.
Thanks for the reply




Quote:
Originally Posted by helijeeper View Post
There is a video of a guy using a cut off wheel and cutting into the spare tire area to access it from the top.

I personally would never throw a bunch of sparks around a fuel tank but I would use some shears. Would make the job a lot easier especially if it's all rusted out and being replaced soon anyway.

New sheet metal, seem sealer, a few rivets and call it a day. Shaping the new metal probably the most time consuming part. But you could use the old piece and get inventive. Just use tape on your drill bit to keep depth in check.

Just saying if it's truly a beater and a salvage title like mine then why not build an access port. LoL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I thought about going that route, but don't want the sparks as mentioned or having to fab up a cover. I'd most likely end up nicking the tank too lol.
It is a older, high mileage jeep with rust, but clean title and air conditioning and everything still works so I might put some new front fenders on it and keep it around. It's at 212k iirc, so still has some life left in her, plus most if not all are highway miles so would be worth it to fix I guess.
Thanks for the reply

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post #5 of 7 Old 07-07-2020, 03:16 PM
VaporHeadATC
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I replaced mine a few months back. It would have been much easier if I had a second person helping, FYI, at least if you have a hitch to remove like me. I placed a jack under the tank, lowered the tank down and replaced the pump in an hour or two. It was a pain in the butt getting the rubber pump > tank seal to stay, but managed to get it done.
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post #6 of 7 Old 07-07-2020, 10:57 PM
97Mule
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Rent or buy a fuel pressure gauge and you can be More sure before dropping the tank.


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post #7 of 7 Old 07-10-2020, 01:15 AM
Scott8253
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Not to discourage you but it took me forever to change my rusted skid plate, hitch and pump. I assume with the 03 you have the skid plate that holds up the fuel tank. I had to change the skid plate on my 00 because it was rusted so badly I was afraid the tank would drop out. The same bolts that hold the hitch also hold the skid plate, I believe there were 4 on one side and 3 on the other. Also had to remove bumper. The worst part was trying to get the bolts out. There are blind nuts in the frame channel so no access to them. Couldn't use heat and even with a cheater bar/impact, I was afraid I would break them off. Drilled some 1/8 hole near where the nuts would be and kept spraying with PB Blaster for a few days, then slowly worked them out. Even being super careful I broke one off.

Didn't have any help so had to get a transmission support 2 x 4's etc., to hold everything up. Since I installed a new skid plate I put a new fuel pump in even though there was nothing bad with the old one. I left my hitch off since I don't tow and made it a lot easier to reinstall the skid plate and tank due to less weight and easier lining up shorter replacement bolts that I bought.

I could see doing this job fairly fast if the bolts were not all rusted solid in the nuts but it was a real struggle getting them out. I would go the access hole in the spare wheel well to get pump out if your bolts do not come out fairly easily and your skid plate is still in decent shape. You can always silicon a thin plate to cover the hole just to keep the weather out and may be an easier way to go then struggling underneath. Make a cover of thin styrene which is easy to cut. Don't believe you need anything beefy cause the spare tire will still have plenty to rest on and won't interfere with anything.
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