Front Diff side UCA bushing need help - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-25-2015, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
stone white 99
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Parker, CO.
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Front Diff side UCA bushing need help

I was able to sawzall and mangle out the passenger side bushing but how are you guys getting the pumpkin side out?
Does mine look normal? It looks like it has backed out some or does it not go all the way to the bushing flange? Either way any advise is greatly appreciated, did a search on this and cant find any write ups.
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post #2 of 11 Old 08-25-2015, 07:27 PM
MuddyWJ
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Torch the **** out of it then chisel it out. An air hammer is your best friend here.
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post #3 of 11 Old 08-25-2015, 08:26 PM
muddypunk
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I torched then left in the shell and put daystar poly bushings in like 5 years ago and stopped replacing my bushings every other year.

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post #4 of 11 Old 08-25-2015, 09:39 PM
corpulent
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-25-2015, 11:10 PM
Hack
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Drivers side does not press all the way in. Just until the shoulder on the bushing sleeve. I used a balljoint press to get it started, then tapped it out with a chisel.
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-26-2015, 02:48 AM Thread Starter
stone white 99
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Great info. Thanks a ton, ill be working on it again this morning. Left the new bushings in the freezer last evening so that should help on install
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-26-2015, 08:32 AM
corpulent
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Careful not to bend the "ears" on the passenger side mount. I wedged a socket in there to keep it rigid while I pressed the bushings in.
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-27-2015, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
stone white 99
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Well getting that LH bushing out went pretty well thanks for all of the tips and that forum link. First I started by cutting off just the flange with the sawzall to weaken it for the pounding it was about to receive, then as suggested I torched the crap out of the shell and inner sleeve, then used a long screwdriver to twist out the inner bushing. Went back and forth pounding the shell with a big punch and getting the sawzall in there to shred up the rubber and i even cut into the sides being very careful not to cut into the boss. Eventually I got movement in the shell and that was that.
Next, lining up the upper arms now to get bolts in: I did as suggested to use a 4x4 piece of wood under the driver side spring perch to rotate the axle back up.
I thought the springs were going to pop out the axle tilted so far forward. Next I used a ratchet strap hooked from the "ears" on the passenger side mount to the crossmember, wrapping the excess around the CM, hooking into a drain hole.
A careful combination of ratchet strap tightening and floor jack, and tapered punch to help with hole alignment, got all 4 bolts in.
I was able to do all of this without removing the drivers side spring and used the harbor freight ball joint press. This was a tricky job to say the least, but now the WJ feels so nice and solid up front as now all new tie rod ends, ball joints, hubs, cv axles, all four control arms IRO adj trackbar with flex joint, and new front swaybar bushings. The highway tracking is now great and the awful tailwag is 90% gone.
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-27-2015, 08:56 AM
DKern
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X2 on bending the ears, mine started to go before I noticed.

An air hammer didn't help much on mine, I ended up hole sawing out the rubber then using a standard BFH/chisel on the sleeve. If i was doing it again I'd try a press.
good luck
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-27-2015, 08:58 AM
DKern
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looks like I ought to refresh the page before i post next time
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post #11 of 11 Old 08-27-2015, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
stone white 99
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Location: Parker, CO.
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Thanks Kolak for getting me the right parts once again
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