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post #1 of 38 Old 12-14-2017, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
Uniblurb
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Fluid Film Application

Just drives me nuts seeing heavy salt brine and road salt sitting on my Jeeps all winter eating them up. And often it's too cold to wash the salt off. They just put a heavy application of salt on the roads here and thought I'd hit my 04 WJ with some Fluid Film ahead of time to protect it somewhat.

Perfect conditions for spraying Fluid Film outside; 30F, 10-15mph winds, and ended up doing it in the dark! Lol. I've sprayed it at freezing before and you can apply it at about any temps. Less dripping at colder temps but it may not spread as even like during warmer temps. It is some pretty messy stuff but believe it a fairly good product for slowing down rust for a little while.

I do have canopies over my 2 Jeeps but little help except for blocking some of the sleet as I finished up.

No doubt you get a better deal in buying Fluid Film in bulk and bought a dozen cans off ebay for $100. About the same price on Amazon with prime and you save a couple bucks a can buying it in quantities.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Fluid-Film-Ru...S11/1000714153

I used 3 cans and used a 24" wand w/4-hole nozzle for spraying it in the inner frame, up in the outside rockers (full length), inside cross-member, inside bottoms of doors/liftgate, etc.. I should have removed the bottom plastic door steps for doing the inner rockers but didn't want to mess with them in the cold. It's pretty nice the nozzle is so small (1/8" dia.) it will fit in the bottom drain holes everywhere.

This wand w/nozzle is kind of a rip-off since it's the same one which comes free with a can of Eastwood Internal Frame coating.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Fluid-Film-36....c100005.m1851

This price for the internal frame coating does not include shipping.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...SABEgJ8MvD_BwE

This Eastwood Internal Frame coating is some good stuff but can't say much for their Rust Encapsulating paint which the rust came right back through. Likely not a good idea to use Fluid Film internally on any parts if you're ever going to use the internal frame coating.

My below rust restoration project from 4 years ago didn't hold up well enough as planned. I'm sure it may have helped somewhat but just real disappointed the way rust came through. Have sprayed Fluid Film 2-3 times since and just going to screw trying to paint it over.

Real wordy thread, below is the middle, and just look at pics if you want.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...SABEgJ8MvD_BwE

On applying the Fluid Film I did use just the plain can nozzle for covering larger under-body areas and never did use the little straw/stem which comes with each can. It should be noted that wand/nozzle also fits brake cleaner cans and you can blow that wand/nozzle right out on cleanup.

Try not to spray any electric connectors or grounds. They have a warning it may loosen up some undercoatings/paint but have never seen this.

Sorry I don't have any photos of spraying Fluid Film last night but no way I was going to get my camera out with all that greasy stuff all over my hands. Suggest using disposable rubber gloves and I wore safety glasses because of the winds. Good luck if you try applying Fluid Film and it's nothing but lanolin from sheep wool.

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post #2 of 38 Old 12-14-2017, 08:35 AM
99wjtx
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Considering the obvious degree of decay it causes, it astounds me that northern states salt the roads like they do and that there is still (apparently) no better solution. In the worst winters here DOT will sometimes sand selected roadways and overpasses but never salt them. Wouldn't automatic car washes with an undercarriage wash work for getting most of it off? Maybe some car wash entrepreneur could sell monthly memberships - unlimited undercarriage washes for $9.95 or something.
On the flip, I'm surprised manufacturers have generally not done a very good job of better preparing exposed metallic surfaces or gone more toward stainless steel formulations for body panels, frames, etc., given the extent of the problem and the fact that so many vehicles they sell are in places that salt. With market changes and material science advances of the past 20 years, the industry really should look (again) at trying to make that work from an economic standpoint.
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post #3 of 38 Old 12-14-2017, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99wjtx View Post
Maybe some car wash entrepreneur could sell monthly memberships - unlimited undercarriage washes for $9.95 or something.
I've read that most cities and towns have water-saving rules that force the bigger automatic car washes to filter and re-use their wash water. Salt doesn't filter out unless you use a very expensive reverse osmosis filtering system (which also wastes a lot of fresh water). So the car wash might inject the salty brine into places that it never would have gotten to in normal driving.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 99wjtx View Post
On the flip, I'm surprised manufacturers have generally not done a very good job of better preparing exposed metallic surfaces or gone more toward stainless steel formulations for body panels, frames, etc., given the extent of the problem and the fact that so many vehicles they sell are in places that salt. With market changes and material science advances of the past 20 years, the industry really should look (again) at trying to make that work from an economic standpoint.
They don't want vehicles to last forever! It could have a negative impact on their bottom line if their stuff lasted too long. Planned obsolescence is a major part of pretty much all modern manufacturing. Design stuff to outlive the warranty and not much else.
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post #4 of 38 Old 12-14-2017, 03:09 PM
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Every time it gets in the upper 30's I get out the garden hose and rinse off the under carriages.

The high pressure spray at the car wash puts water where it shouldn't be. Especially in the winter time.
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post #5 of 38 Old 12-14-2017, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 99wjtx View Post
Considering the obvious degree of decay it causes, it astounds me that northern states salt the roads like they do and that there is still (apparently) no better solution. In the worst winters here DOT will sometimes sand selected roadways and overpasses but never salt them. Wouldn't automatic car washes with an undercarriage wash work for getting most of it off? Maybe some car wash entrepreneur could sell monthly memberships - unlimited undercarriage washes for $9.95 or something.
On the flip, I'm surprised manufacturers have generally not done a very good job of better preparing exposed metallic surfaces or gone more toward stainless steel formulations for body panels, frames, etc., given the extent of the problem and the fact that so many vehicles they sell are in places that salt. With market changes and material science advances of the past 20 years, the industry really should look (again) at trying to make that work from an economic standpoint.
Surprisingly NJ goes pretty light on the salt. It's not just damaging to cars, but tends to poison the soil as well.

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post #6 of 38 Old 12-14-2017, 11:25 PM
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There have been several tests run by the Canadian Army on which rust proofing product provides the best protection. You can*read the 2006 report here*and*this post at RedFlagDeals summarizes the results nicely.

The Best Protection

The clear winner in the army tests is Corrosion Free!*They found that Corrosion Free was more than 90% effective at inhibiting rust even in the harshest climates. The next closest product was only 70% effective and to my great horror Rust Check was rated at under 40% effective.
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post #7 of 38 Old 12-16-2017, 06:30 PM
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In Northern NJ, they put the brine mixture on roads here before snow comes-you can see the lines on the road. I got behind a truck the other day and sure enough, It sprayed the crap all over. I try to go to the car wash by me several times during the winter months to remove the salt.

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post #8 of 38 Old 12-17-2017, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by HarryH3 View Post


They don't want vehicles to last forever! It could have a negative impact on their bottom line if their stuff lasted too long. Planned obsolescence is a major part of pretty much all modern manufacturing. Design stuff to outlive the warranty and not much else.
In truth, vehicles have become far more resistant to rust than previously. Back in the 70s I had one of the first Audi models available in the US. I haven't seen one in many years because they all rusted within the first few years beyond reasonable restoration.

Coatings and alloys have changed things a lot, but they don't last forever.

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post #9 of 38 Old 12-17-2017, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by xjpete View Post
In Northern NJ, they put the brine mixture on roads here before snow comes-you can see the lines on the road. I got behind a truck the other day and sure enough, It sprayed the crap all over. I try to go to the car wash by me several times during the winter months to remove the salt.
Actually that's supposed to be the best time, requiring less than if you do it after the ice has started to adhere.

Washing underneath helps, but the biggest risk for frame corrosion is from the inside where water, mud etc can stay wet for months.

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post #10 of 38 Old 12-18-2017, 04:00 PM
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This what I use. Not cheap but it does work.

https://boeshield.com/

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post #11 of 38 Old 12-19-2017, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by zephyr424 View Post
The clear winner in the army tests is Corrosion Free!*They found that Corrosion Free was more than 90% effective at inhibiting rust even in the harshest climates. The next closest product was only 70% effective and to my great horror Rust Check was rated at under 40% effective.
Is it this?

https://corrosionfree.com/?_vsrefdom...SAAEgJAZ_D_BwE

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post #12 of 38 Old 12-20-2017, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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This may be the same link and just watched their video on applying 'Corrosion Free'.

https://corrosionfree.com/?_vsrefdom...SAAEgIICfD_BwE

Thanks for all the input guys and there are some drawbacks after applying 'Fluid Film'. While my 04 WJ is white, including underside, that Fluid Film stays tacky and picks up all the road oil/grime which turns it black.

Had no idea my water pump was going out and just changed it along with thermostat. Also changed the oil/filter. Great move in doing this work right after applying Fluid Film and had the fresh FF all over me along with the greasy black old application.

While almost twice the price this Boeshield does look like some real good stuff Montreal300. Like the idea it doesn't stay tacky and has more of a wax coating when it dries.



I do wash the road salt off my Jeeps whenever the car washes are open. The outdoor washes stay open until it gets near freezing and even the indoor washes shut down when around 20F. But like others have said often this power washes probably drive more road salt into the inner frame, rockers, and other parts.

I have used my garden hose when getting above freezing but seems like everything freezes up when temps drop below freezing at night. Found applying silicone to the door/liftgate rubber seals going into winter helps in them not freezing shut. Typically I'll keep all the door/hatch hinges lubed with spray white grease.

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post #13 of 38 Old 12-20-2017, 09:07 PM
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Kind of did the same thing today. Greased all the tie rods and ball joints then ended up wearing some of it.

For rust protection I used the two spray cans of corrosion free on the under body last year and it still looks to be there. Supposed to be good for 18 mo.


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post #14 of 38 Old 12-25-2017, 09:39 AM
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Hey, this product appears to be the real deal - I just checked out the Canadian army study

https://corrosionfree.com/wp-content...-Text-copy.pdf

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post #15 of 38 Old 03-06-2019, 09:45 AM
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I looked into this Fluid Film product for my daughter's WJ to use underneath when she moves down to the coast later this Fall (trying to avoid the salt-mist of death).

Found out that Autozone and now Lowes carry the spray cans. So I ran a little test.

I took a piece of 1/8" x 2" flat stock in bare metal and sanded away any mill-coating left. Then I sprayed half of the bar with the Fluid Film. This was done on 2/5/19.



I left the bar to sit outside for a month. It has been thru cold, heat, rain, ice, drizzle, light mist, sun, etc. in the last month. Here is how it looks now...



I did put it on kind of thick, and to my surprise, it would run slightly if the bar was picked up and held vertically (even after a couple weeks). After 2 weeks, I wiped most of excess off just to try and see if had any effect with a thinner coat. No change really, but you tell which direction I wiped as the coated area is now larger on the face of the bar.

I'm going to continue to keep it outside and see how things progress.

So far, I'm pretty impressed with this product. I can see that it would collect dust and dirt, but that would be a small price to pay for the ability to keep rust at bay.

I think I'll start collecting a stock-pile of this stuff!
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