Did I see a V8 valve cover removal writeup on here? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 6 Old 08-06-2020, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
AVR2
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Did I see a V8 valve cover removal writeup on here?

My 4.7L valve cover oil leak has reached the stage where I can't really ignore it any more. I have a feeling I saw a full writeup on here a while back, but I've been searching and can't find it. Can anyone help?

And are there any parts I should have on hand as well as the new Fel-Pro gaskets and grommets?

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post #2 of 6 Old 08-06-2020, 03:49 PM
Uniblurb
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The valve cover gasket replacement write-up for the 4.7 is in the FAQ on the WJ homepage. It's the last write-up thread under the 'Engine' section. But unfortunately all the photos are gone.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310.../#post27642209


GmanWJ has some real good valve cover gasket instructions in his build thread. And it's nice he created live links to the left and right valve cover replacements on the first page of his thread under table of contents.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310...hread-4239282/

Need to replace these gaskets myself and have the correct Felpro ones down the basement. Good luck.

Edit/PS. I do remember the 99-03 4.7 engine uses the Felpro VS 50521R valve cover gaskets but the 04 4.7 uses a different set which are the Felpro VS 50577R.

I saw one guy on here who used the Felpro gaskets and said he thought about putting a little gasket sealer/maker on the bottom back corners on both left and right sides but didn't. He ended up with leaks and removed them to add some gasket maker. I don't think most do this but makes me want to apply a little Permatex Ultra Black to the lower side 4 corners on the gaskets.

2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 ZJ


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post #3 of 6 Old 08-07-2020, 06:23 AM
Double E
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I think the difference in part# came when the valve cover changed from magnesium to plastic composite.

Driver's side is easy.

Passenger side is where all the cussing occurs. Take a few pics before you start so you see where stuff goes.

I pulled the power harness from the battery, alt and the grounds on the side of the block to get better access. That harness is not an item I want to put undue stress on. It's a good opportunity to freshen mounting points up with the WJ being so sensitive to good ground.

I broke a couple of stand-offs on the valve cover but they're brittle anyway and it's not a big deal if some snap.
Battery tray is, unnecessarily, a pain in the rear to remove and reinstall.
Be sure to keep track of what all got unbolted and disconnected in that area.

I think I may have pulled the coolant reservoir. If you do, give it a flush with some nuts & bolts added and a little soap to break up the sediment.
When you pull the connectors from the power modules attached to the firewall, just move them up onto the cowl to get them out of the way but be 100% to re-connect them securely as a loose connector will throw transmission codes.

Be careful removing the fuel injector clips. They are brittle also.
I support the addition of some rtv on the low edges of the cylinder head. Let it cure for a little longer than normal so it does not move when the cover goes on.
Iv'e done this gasket swap to three 4.7L WJs now. No leaks.

Some have removed the heater hoses. I found that I was able to work around them without removing.
I only had to loosen the mount for the AC (accumulator?) thing to get the room I needed. No disconnect was needed.

When tightening the VC bolts, they will bottom out so when they get tight, stop. (The head is aluminum.)
I think your '02 still has magnesium valve covers...check out the guy on u-tube that polished his up before reinstalling. It's quite entertaining.

Be patient removing those old grommets from the bolts. I put each bolt in a vice and with pliers or vice-grip, just twisted each off until it tore free.

If you're going to swap spark plugs, this is a pretty good opportunity to do so.

'04 Freedom Edition HO & '04 Overland HO (previous '00 Laredo 4.7)
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post #4 of 6 Old 08-10-2020, 02:20 PM
GmanWJ
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Second what Double E said. Driver side is easy, passenger side is a bear. So do the driver side first to get an idea what you are in for.


I understand wanting to see a good write-up about it first. I wanted that too. I recall finding a horrible YT vid of some lunatic frantically yanking wires, absolutely ruining everything in the process, but it was just about all I could find at the time. So I wrote up my experience to try to help, but now I look at it and think it is not particularly great, should have done better.



You will need a ratchet and multiple lengths of extensions. You will need a 10mm standard socket and a deep socket. You will need a swivel joint (U-joint). If you have swivel sockets, even better. If you have a ratcheting wrench it may help.

Passenger side is much harder. The wiring harness in the back is a real problem. Seriously consider disconnecting some wires to gain some slack. If you unmount the PCM from the fender/firewall, you can get a lot without disconnecting.
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ok mostly just repairs, but we are closing in on a lift
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post #5 of 6 Old 09-07-2020, 06:15 AM
art^69
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I definitely recommend adding the permatex black to the entire inside groove on the valve cover, and to the mating surface on the head.
You don't need much, but I did put a bit extra in the rear outboard corners.
This contradicts the Jeep manual which states to not use any sealant. The manual is wrong because nearly every 4.7 leaks from the same spot.
Seal it with the Permatex Black and the leaks will stop for good.

'99 WJ Limited
'03 WJ Overland
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post #6 of 6 Old 09-07-2020, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
AVR2
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Thanks all. My leak is worst on the UK passenger side (so US driver side), although it doesn't really drip noticeably on the ground unless you've got either the back end or front end up on jackstands and you've left it overnight. When that happens, oil must pool at the front or back of the valve cover, and you end up with a noticeable stain under the Jeep.
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