Detroit Axle arms - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 13 Old 08-13-2020, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
PreciousTime
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Detroit Axle arms

Hey ya all. Trying to figure out some things for getting ready to do a 3Ē lift on the WJ. Iím considering replacing the control arms and the A Arm bushings while I was tearing into it. It seems for not much more money one could just buy the whole arms. There is a thread on this forum that linked to Detroit Axle. On their site that list the front control arm kit (# 80301-4B) it says for Laredo and the Limited. I have a 04 Overland. So I called them up and the rep said only for the Laredo and Limited. But quite frankly I believe they donít know anything and are just answering the phone and reading whatís on the page.

#1 I donít see why but what do I know. So is there any difference with the control arms between the Overland and the other models?
#2 Has anyone else used Detroit Axle arms?
#3 How thick are they and are they boxed in like factory arms?
# Their prices seem good with free shipping and a 10 year warranty. I was also told made in USA.

Also is there any difference with the bump stops/ jounce bumpers on a WJ with the up country suspension from the standard suspension?

Thanks

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post #2 of 13 Old 08-13-2020, 11:07 AM
helijeeper
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I can't answer all your questions but I used them on my Laredo and I thought they were quality and have been good to me over the last 8 months.

I put them on the same time I did a Rusty's 2.5 in lift and went to 31's. With the lift and stock arms my axles are no longer centered in the wheel arch and with the large tires I sometimes get contact in turns and flex. I will probably go to adjustable arms in the long run.



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post #3 of 13 Old 08-13-2020, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
PreciousTime
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helijeeper. Most charts and threads I've read indicate that even with a 3" the stock arms were ok. That was considering the castor angle though. I didn't think about centering in the wheel well. With your results I may have to consider going with adjustable ones now. I guess just the lower front would be needed ??
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-13-2020, 01:19 PM
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I might be able to help here ...

  1. I have (*had) a 2002 Laredo with factory Up-Country suspension. I believe the Overland also has the UC setup. There is no difference in control arms between the UC package and standard package.
  2. I installed new Detroit Axle control arms everywhere on my WJ a while back. They have performed and held up better than the Mopar arms I tried first.
  3. The DA arms look almost identical to the factory arms, bushings included. However they are missing a few holes for things like mounting the rear brake line support brackets (on the rear upper A-arm) and the front axle breather tube clamp (front left upper). If you can run a drill, get yourself some self-drilling screws from the hardware store and you can easily fix this shortcoming. Back when I purchased them, I called the DA office and they flat told me that they made the original arms for the factory back in the day ... I was skeptical but took the chance and heck, they look close enough to me. I suspect the missing holes were created on the WJ assembly line.
  4. No difference in the bump stops / jounce bumpers. What fits on one WJ will fit on them all.
* I removed the UC springs & shocks when I installed my lift ... and those are really the only two components that set the UC suspension apart from the standard suspension.


P.S. If you are looking toward a future suspension lift because your original UC springs are sagging, think very seriously about just getting adjustable CAs from the beginning. They are much more expensive but the ability to use them to adjust caster angle should not be ignored. I would go as far to say that if you skip adjustable CAs because of the price, then maybe just skip the lift altogether because the factory setup is already well-engineered and highly capable.
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ok mostly just repairs, but we are closing in on a lift
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-13-2020, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
PreciousTime
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GmanWJ. Thanks. Yes Iím most likely going to be doing a IRO 3Ē lift. Staying modest with 31Ē tires. Need a little more lift to compensate for the extra weight of things. Winch on the front. Then the recovery gear, compressor, tools, extra parts, fluids, camping gear and what not. I was on the edge with what arms to go with. Iím going to go with adjustable now. Pay once, cry once I guess. At 126K miles I want it all done including new bushings weather it needs them or not. Especially up front when getting a alignment after the lift work.
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post #6 of 13 Old 08-13-2020, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot to add. Not all Overland's have the upcountry springs and heavy duty shocks. There was a delete option that confused some sales persons and customers so a few came with them deleted. But yes ours has the UC springs and HD shocks.
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post #7 of 13 Old 08-13-2020, 04:00 PM
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You are making the right decision going adjustable right off. Your tires and trim caps will thank you.

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post #8 of 13 Old 08-13-2020, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PreciousTime View Post
Forgot to add. Not all Overland's have the upcountry springs and heavy duty shocks. There was a delete option that confused some sales persons and customers so a few came with them deleted. But yes ours has the UC springs and HD shocks.

That's a good point, some customers did select the delete option. So I thought of an additional difference with the UC package and the 4.7L. While not an advertised component of UC suspension (because it is not a suspension component), a double-cardan front driveshaft was included with that option. This is a big deal because the DC will hold up to a small lift while the Rzeppa DS will not.


I should have went with adjustable CAs. But I was too green to understand why ... and was not ready for the price tag. Because now here I am faced with the same decision all over again.


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ok mostly just repairs, but we are closing in on a lift
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-13-2020, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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That's another good point. Fortunately ours is a 04 and already has the double cardan driveshaft. One less expense at least.
I'm going to suck it up and get the adjustable's. Now to figure out the rest of the list. We just bought the Jeep so going thru a learning curve about it. Thank goodness for this forum and the people on it.
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post #10 of 13 Old 08-14-2020, 08:51 AM
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Most of the info I have read here and else where indicate that no adjustable arms are needed for 3" lift and under, but as you stated before, that is more to do with the ability to adjust caster in the alignment. It has nothing to do with the centering of the axles in the wheel wells.



Good rule of thumb, replace the lower arms with adjustable to center the axles in the wheel wells, replace the uppers(front and rear) to adjust angles-Front Caster/rear pinion.


There are many Jeeps out there(mine included) that drive very well without centering the axles in the wheel wells. Biggest negative I can see to NOT centering the axles would be tire clearance, but otherwise, no real ill effects.

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #11 of 13 Old 08-14-2020, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Iím getting older and winding things down. In the early/ mid 80ís I had a rig with 40Ē tires, then down to 35Ē, then down to 32Ē and now this WJ with 31Ē. The Jeep isnít going to be a daily driver. Itís going to be an weekend adventure rig. No intentional rock crawling but still want it to be capable to last me for the rest of my adventure days. Plus one never knows when that wild hair up ones *** shows up.

We just bought the Jeep and Iím really jonesing to get a lift ordered but forcing myself to slow down. My budget isnít unlimited but I want to do it right the first time. So Iím not going to limit it per say. I was reading some more last night. Found a thread that I copied and pasted a portion into a file for myself. Then I thought Iíd include it on this thread.

"I would also recommend adjustable control arms at least in the rear, as you see a +3" WJ on stock arms and it looks like somebody kicked is rear axle up under it's arse. Also will allow you to adjust your rear pinion angle...as 3" lift on stock control arms may well give you driveline vibes.

If you want to fit bigger tires, adjustable control arms all around will facilitate that. They allow you to re-center the tires in the wheel wells, as a lift on factory arms swings the front axle down and back, and the rear axle down and forward...effectively shortening your wheelbase. And looking funky..."


For me being new to the WJ I donít really know when is when. I was at least going to replace all the arm bushings. Now after last nightís reading and sleeping on it Iím thinking I should go ahead and get rear lower adjustable also. Suck it up buttercup I guess. Again Iíd rather spend the money up front than have regrets later. Iím giving myself the weekend to research some more and price things. What do you all think, adjustable rears or not?
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post #12 of 13 Old 08-14-2020, 05:22 PM
coldspit47
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Every rig is different, but I have a 3in with adjustables all the way around. You may experience driveline vibes or poor caster without them, you may not. I like being able to dial in exactly where I want the wheel and keep the drive angles as close to stock as possible. IRO has a good set, mine have been on for over 5yrs now with no issues.
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post #13 of 13 Old 08-17-2020, 08:53 AM
Bigrigr
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I have the 4" RC lift and have no vibes or weird driveablilty issues per say...It is a lifted Jeep though...But my wheelbase is definitely shorter now...I dont exactly love the look, but Adjustable arms are expensive....

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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