damaged lug nut - any tips on easy removal? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
anarky321
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Wj damaged lug nut - any tips on easy removal?

really tight on money so I was thinking maybe I could do this with a drill and chisel myself? this is on the rear driver side wheel...was mostly trying to decide if i can drill out the lug itself instead of drilling the wheel stud (which seems much harder steel)





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post #2 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 12:46 PM
Delta0
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really tight on money so I was thinking maybe I could do this with a drill and chisel myself? this is on the rear driver side wheel...was mostly trying to decide if i can drill out the lug itself instead of drilling the wheel stud (which seems much harder steel)


Find someone with an induction furnace designed to undo rusty lug nuts.
You local tyre shop might be able to hep you.
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post #3 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 12:47 PM
AVR2
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I had a locking wheel nut that seized. I tried all the quick tricks - hammering on a smaller socket, using a special seized lug nut removal socket etc - and none of them worked, they just chewed up the outside of the nut. In the end I just had to drill.

I was amazed at just how far I had to drill before the nut finally let go; I was sure I must have been all the way through the stud, but when the nut finally came off I discovered I was barely halfway down it.

It'll be much easier for you, as you've got the clean end of the stud to start with. I had to drill through the end of the locking nut, which was a PITA in comparison.
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post #4 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 12:52 PM
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Find someone with an induction furnace designed to undo rusty lug nuts.
You local tyre shop might be able to hep you.
Find someone with a suitable induction furnace.
Your local tyre shop should be able to help you.

Take the wheel off at the bearing.
Drill the lug out from the back.
Replace lug.
Ot the bit of the axle that carries the wheel.
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post #5 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 12:55 PM
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post #6 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 01:19 PM
AVR2
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Take the wheel off at the bearing.
Drill the lug out from the back.
That's one hell of a complicated way of doing it, isn't it? It's a super-easy drill job as-is, without having to screw around pulling out the axleshaft. And a few decent drill bits of varying size will cost an awful lot less than an induction heater.
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post #7 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 01:26 PM
xcaliber81
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I had this problem on my zj. I bugged a local mechanic enough he said go get it were getting this wheel off lol. I believe he used a die grinder and some type of bit and grinded the remaining light off it took him less then 20 mins.
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post #8 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
anarky321
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was the wheel ruined after that?

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post #9 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 01:53 PM
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I don't remember 100% he may have knicked it but the wheel was old and corroded anyway since it was a 20 year old jeep at the time but it was still usable. I had to choice in the matter since I snapped the lug in half there was no getting anything on it. Was waaayyyyy over torqued before I got it all I did was try and remove it and that was it.

I could be wrong but doesn't the caliper need to be removed before the axle shafts will actually come out? The caliper bracket goes over the rotor and rear wheel backing plate I thought?
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post #10 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 02:10 PM
darkstarmoto
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I had to deal with this same issue recently...easiest for me was using a 5/8" (or 16mm) hole saw. It fits around the stud and cuts the lug nut off. Just don't put in the center bit (obviously) and let the saw do the work, don't push on it and don't wiggle it around or the saw will break. If you're lucky you can save the stud...if not 1 stud isn't too expensive. I did 3 this way on a donor I bought for parts.
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post #11 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 02:11 PM
AVR2
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Originally Posted by xcaliber81 View Post
I could be wrong but doesn't the caliper need to be removed before the axle shafts will actually come out? The caliper bracket goes over the rotor and rear wheel backing plate I thought?
Yep.

It's a very straightforward job to drill from the outer end of the stud though. Just get some decent bits in a range of sizes (so you can start small and work upwards) and some cutting oil and you can have the nut off with no damage to the wheel in about 30 minutes. Then it's just a few minutes to knock out the remains of the stud and install a new one.
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post #12 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 04:48 PM
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I've never done it myself, but using a dremel bit like this to cut down to the threads in two spots opposite each other, then a good wack and it should pop off. Then clean up the threads with a tap and die or at least a spare lug nut and away you go.



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post #13 of 46 Old 07-21-2021, 05:09 PM
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Drilling is the way to go without damaging the wheel.
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post #14 of 46 Old 07-22-2021, 12:10 AM
Delta0
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Originally Posted by AVR2 View Post
That's one hell of a complicated way of doing it, isn't it? It's a super-easy drill job as-is, without having to screw around pulling out the axleshaft. And a few decent drill bits of varying size will cost an awful lot less than an induction heater.
Thanks AVR2

What's complicated about asking around for someone with an induction heater. please?

Drilling out is far more skilled than finding someone with the right kit.
It also risks damaging the wheel.

If you are correct about needing to remove the axle shaft, I accept what you say in that respect.
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post #15 of 46 Old 07-22-2021, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by xcaliber81 View Post
I don't remember 100% he may have knicked it but the wheel was old and corroded anyway since it was a 20 year old jeep at the time but it was still usable. I had to choice in the matter since I snapped the lug in half there was no getting anything on it. Was waaayyyyy over torqued before I got it all I did was try and remove it and that was it.

I could be wrong but doesn't the caliper need to be removed before the axle shafts will actually come out? The caliper bracket goes over the rotor and rear wheel backing plate I thought?
I think you are correct.
All low skill work though.
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