Chasing the Electrical Ghost - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 25 Old 10-20-2021, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
Terminal
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Chasing the Electrical Ghost

Ok, so today I've finally had time to work on my WJ and I think I found the culprit in the passenger side door jam harness.

SYMPTOM: (while driving with no mechanical engine failures) Intermittent things happen which include all gauges drop to zero, security key light, alarm system lights blink externally, ABS lights, panel lights blinking/flickering, check engine light, ALL dash lights come on, fuel pump won't prime on first turn of key and require 3 on position before starting.

These things all have happened individually and all at once for the past 6 months, intermittently.

Now since today's the day to repair, I'm hoping this electrical short is the cure all after I patch it up. However, what is the actual scientific evidence that these only two particular colored wires rubbing together would wreak this much havoc on the electrical system. The reason I ask is, because this was an intermittent problem that I'm hoping to avoid buying a BCM and/or PCM that so many have suggested in the interwebforumsofthingsandsuch. This information is critical to me if anyone knows or even has a colored wiring schematic on hand as to what these two wires represent, as I plan on taking a trip in the WJ soon.


Thanks

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post #2 of 25 Old 10-20-2021, 12:39 PM
leadsled jeep
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I feel your pain. I’ve rewired these boot sections in both front doors. The stupidity of either Jeep electrical or materials engineers or their penny pinching accountants should result in Tar and Feathers for these issues. Yeah I know our keeps werent built to last much past 100k but this is asinine. My Lexus has 330k on it and I’ve never EVER had this problem in its door jams!

I look forward to your results soon.

For a WEAK and IGNORANT sheople, SERF-dom is a Reward, not a Curse. W1CCW
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post #3 of 25 Old 10-20-2021, 12:40 PM
Mr. Bitey
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BLU/PNK - speaker negative
ORG/VLT - power lock
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2004 WJ 4.7 N, daily driver
1967 Jeep J100 panel truck (a-rusted development)
1970 'Cuda, 340 4bbl (10.952et @ 123mph)
1972 Dart Swinger, Gen III 6.4l Hemi (11.223 @ 113mph)
1974 AMC Gremlin X, 440 6bbl (sold)
1975 Jeep Cherokee Sport 2-door (in progress)
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post #4 of 25 Old 10-21-2021, 03:38 AM
Delta0
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Now since today's the day to repair, I'm hoping this electrical short is the cure all after I patch it up. [/COLOR] However, what is the actual scientific evidence that these only two particular colored wires rubbing together would wreak this much havoc on the electrical system. The reason I ask is, because this was an intermittent problem that I'm hoping to avoid buying a BCM and/or PCM that so many have suggested in the interwebforumsofthingsandsuch. This information is critical to me if anyone knows or even has a colored wiring schematic on hand as to what these two wires represent, as I plan on taking a trip in the WJ soon.

Thanks[/quote]

Could you have damaged the insulation when you cut the cover off?

Have you heard of self amalgamating tape?
It's what I would use the repair that damage.
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post #5 of 25 Old 10-21-2021, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta0 View Post

Could you have damaged the insulation when you cut the cover off?

Have you heard of self amalgamating tape?
It's what I would use the repair that damage.

No. I could clearly see the frayed wires pulling the grommet back, I cut nothing to access it. My theory -- since Bitey pointed out -- is one of the twisted pair of speaker wires was protruded out like a knot in the wire bundle that the door itself was pushing into the grommet and wore out the insulation over time to the point it became bare and the two wires eventually touched and the hot+ door lock wire melted against the negative- speaker wire every time it was activated as indicated in the picture. As you can see in the picture, the hot wire insulation was far more melted than the negative where they intersected.

This, in my opinion, is a fire hazard and should be recalled. If I were rich, I'd probably sue Chrysler. LOL
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post #6 of 25 Old 10-21-2021, 07:31 AM
Mr. Bitey
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I fixed I couple wires when I bought my current as the power windows/locks didn't work. Since, I've lost both front door speakers, but it hasn't been a big priority since I run a pair of amp'd Klipsch outdoor speakers in the rear, and still get more than enough volume. So you guys got me thinking - further damage is inevitable - I think I should set some shop time aside and completely re-wire at least the front doors. I can even score some super flexible silicone jacketed wire from work. Even though it would all be blue, I'm not even concerned with color - hack, splice, solder, shrink wrap.
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2004 WJ 4.7 N, daily driver
1967 Jeep J100 panel truck (a-rusted development)
1970 'Cuda, 340 4bbl (10.952et @ 123mph)
1972 Dart Swinger, Gen III 6.4l Hemi (11.223 @ 113mph)
1974 AMC Gremlin X, 440 6bbl (sold)
1975 Jeep Cherokee Sport 2-door (in progress)
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post #7 of 25 Old 10-21-2021, 07:52 AM
Delta0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminal View Post
No. I could clearly see the frayed wires pulling the grommet back, I cut nothing to access it. My theory -- since Bitey pointed out -- is one of the twisted pair of speaker wires was protruded out like a knot in the wire bundle that the door itself was pushing into the grommet and wore out the insulation over time to the point it became bare and the two wires eventually touched and the hot+ door lock wire melted against the negative- speaker wire every time it was activated as indicated in the picture. As you can see in the picture, the hot wire insulation was far more melted than the negative where they intersected I'm afraid I didn't see the melted insulation..

This, in my opinion, is a fire hazard and should be recalled. If I were rich, I'd probably sue Chrysler. LOL
Suing Mopar sounds like a good way for a rich man to get poor.
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post #8 of 25 Old 10-21-2021, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Bitey View Post
I fixed I couple wires when I bought my current as the power windows/locks didn't work. Since, I've lost both front door speakers, but it hasn't been a big priority since I run a pair of amp'd Klipsch outdoor speakers in the rear, and still get more than enough volume. So you guys got me thinking - further damage is inevitable - I think I should set some shop time aside and completely re-wire at least the front doors. I can even score some super flexible silicone jacketed wire from work. Even though it would all be blue, I'm not even concerned with color - hack, splice, solder, shrink wrap.
Somebody recently pointed out that a new loom won't bring tears to your eyes.
Then again, I've just looked it up and the price gave me a nasty shock Mr B.

I think it's Part No 56042525AE

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/part...6042525ae.html

Last edited by Delta0; 10-21-2021 at 10:34 AM.
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post #9 of 25 Old 10-21-2021, 08:23 AM
Mr. Bitey
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Quote:
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Then again, I've just looked it up and the price gave me a nasty shock Mr B.
[/url]
There actually is a number of pigtails on eBay starting at $15 for the wrong colors, $29 for proper OEM colors, includes the connector. However I trust very little from eBay. I'll opt for soldering in splices for free.

2004 WJ 4.7 N, daily driver
1967 Jeep J100 panel truck (a-rusted development)
1970 'Cuda, 340 4bbl (10.952et @ 123mph)
1972 Dart Swinger, Gen III 6.4l Hemi (11.223 @ 113mph)
1974 AMC Gremlin X, 440 6bbl (sold)
1975 Jeep Cherokee Sport 2-door (in progress)
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post #10 of 25 Old 10-21-2021, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Bitey View Post
There actually is a number of pigtails on eBay starting at $15 for the wrong colors, $29 for proper OEM colors, includes the connector. However I trust very little from eBay. I'll opt for soldering in splices for free.
Are you going to splice in a long length that gets the joins well away from where the loom flexes when the door moves.
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post #11 of 25 Old 10-21-2021, 10:45 AM
Mr. Bitey
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Are you going to splice in a long length that gets the joins well away from where the loom flexes when the door moves.
That would be the plan.

2004 WJ 4.7 N, daily driver
1967 Jeep J100 panel truck (a-rusted development)
1970 'Cuda, 340 4bbl (10.952et @ 123mph)
1972 Dart Swinger, Gen III 6.4l Hemi (11.223 @ 113mph)
1974 AMC Gremlin X, 440 6bbl (sold)
1975 Jeep Cherokee Sport 2-door (in progress)
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post #12 of 25 Old 10-21-2021, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
Terminal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta0 View Post
Suing Mopar sounds like a good way for a rich man to get poor.
Yeah, thankfully I'm not worried about being poor or rich. A simple man's life is good enough for me. Have fun while we're here because we all go out the same way... LOL

That hot wire was crispy, I scraped the burned crusted part off with my finger just to get a good look, it just flaked right off. You can still see a little bit of the blacked bit at the top of the wound.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Bitey View Post
I fixed I couple wires when I bought my current as the power windows/locks didn't work. Since, I've lost both front door speakers, but it hasn't been a big priority since I run a pair of amp'd Klipsch outdoor speakers in the rear, and still get more than enough volume. So you guys got me thinking - further damage is inevitable - I think I should set some shop time aside and completely re-wire at least the front doors. I can even score some super flexible silicone jacketed wire from work. Even though it would all be blue, I'm not even concerned with color - hack, splice, solder, shrink wrap.

Yes. I will have to make time later on to do just this. For now, the quick patch job I did to verify the BCM and/or PCM is not bad will tide me over til then.

So far so good, though, only time will tell.

Thanks for the info and comments you guys. This forum is great!



P.S. I will be buying and carrying a fire extinguisher in the Jeep from here on out. Sad to think we have to live in fear of such a crappy design.
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post #13 of 25 Old 10-22-2021, 08:51 AM
leadsled jeep
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I’ve done both my front doors…. It’s a decent Sat morning job. Not as horrible as it sounds.

For a WEAK and IGNORANT sheople, SERF-dom is a Reward, not a Curse. W1CCW
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post #14 of 25 Old 10-22-2021, 09:28 AM
jserna
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I have question. On the rear passanger door on my 04 2 of the wires broke at the plug. What would be the best way to fix those breaks? Gotta love the door wiring repairs.!!!
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post #15 of 25 Old 10-22-2021, 10:04 AM
Mr. Bitey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jserna View Post
I have question. On the rear passanger door on my 04 2 of the wires broke at the plug. What would be the best way to fix those breaks? Gotta love the door wiring repairs.!!!
If there isn't enough wire left at the connector to splice, you are probably a good candidate for the kit. Just Google "WJ door harness". There are kits all over the web. Many are pig tails with the connector already on, just chose the right door for a matching color set. There is a DIY kit on Amazon that has all the same color wire, the crimps that snap into the connector, and the connector - you cut, crimp, and snap. Depending on if you want the wire colors to match or not and the supplier, prices are all over the place.....

2004 WJ 4.7 N, daily driver
1967 Jeep J100 panel truck (a-rusted development)
1970 'Cuda, 340 4bbl (10.952et @ 123mph)
1972 Dart Swinger, Gen III 6.4l Hemi (11.223 @ 113mph)
1974 AMC Gremlin X, 440 6bbl (sold)
1975 Jeep Cherokee Sport 2-door (in progress)
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