Can't lock doors until dome lights go out - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-28-2021, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
dauntless89
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Can't lock doors until dome lights go out

Having an issue with a new-to-me '02 Overland.

Interior lights stay on for about 30 seconds after exiting the vehicle. During this time, the Jeep will not respond to lock (or unlock) commands from either key fob.

If the dome lights are off, both fobs work great. Like, generally from across the parking lot. Fresh batteries in both.

I suspect this is abnormal (it's an extreme nuisance otherwise) but I was not able to find record of anyone else either having this problem or complaining about the "feature." BCM issue or something else?

Thanks,
Tony

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post #2 of 12 Old 01-29-2021, 05:54 AM
HarryH3
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Just for reference, my '01 Laredo will lock from the fob even with a door or the tailgate open. Could be the BCM, but with nearly all electrical issues on a WJ, first check the wires inside the rubber boot in the drivers door jamb area. It's common for them to break and cause really odd things to happen.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-29-2021, 06:15 AM
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Have you tried turning off the interior lights using the switch on the headlight stalk? How about turning off the auto timer on the overhead? Try these one at a time, then try your locks. Maybe you can isolate the problem and know which way to go from there.
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post #4 of 12 Old 01-29-2021, 07:59 AM
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Also, double check your connections at the battery. Many electrical gremlins can be attributed to dirty/loose battery cables/ends.

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post #5 of 12 Old 01-29-2021, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
dauntless89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryH3 View Post
Just for reference, my '01 Laredo will lock from the fob even with a door or the tailgate open. Could be the BCM, but with nearly all electrical issues on a WJ, first check the wires inside the rubber boot in the drivers door jamb area. It's common for them to break and cause really odd things to happen.
That occurred to me but the extremely consistent repeatability of everything related to this, and the lack of any other electrical gremlins had steered me away from the common door wire problems. Rig has 240k on it so it wouldn't be a shocker to have door wiring issues. I will keep this in mind.

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Originally Posted by Golden-Arm View Post
Have you tried turning off the interior lights using the switch on the headlight stalk? How about turning off the auto timer on the overhead? Try these one at a time, then try your locks. Maybe you can isolate the problem and know which way to go from there.
No, I didn't know about the stalk thing. I didn't see an option to turn off the auto-timer on the EVIC but I'll look into that as well. Still figuring out this rig. Previous Mopar vehicle was a '95 Ram and I don't have a thousand miles on this WJ yet, so still dealing with the learning curve on all the computerized stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigrigr View Post
Also, double check your connections at the battery. Many electrical gremlins can be attributed to dirty/loose battery cables/ends.
Those are solid.

Thanks all, will report back.
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-29-2021, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dauntless89 View Post
That occurred to me but the extremely consistent repeatability of everything related to this, and the lack of any other electrical gremlins had steered me away from the common door wire problems. Rig has 240k on it so it wouldn't be a shocker to have door wiring issues. I will keep this in mind.
Just went out and played with it, it does seem to be related to the doors. Thinking back, it does occasionally fail to illuminate the interior lighting when a door is opened. This generally happens after it's been sitting for a while (not driven for multiple days). I assumed this was some kind of feature, maybe it's just another symptom. I'll start proceeding down the door wiring path, I guess.

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Originally Posted by dauntless89 View Post
No, I didn't know about the stalk thing. I didn't see an option to turn off the auto-timer on the EVIC but I'll look into that as well. Still figuring out this rig. Previous Mopar vehicle was a '95 Ram and I don't have a thousand miles on this WJ yet, so still dealing with the learning curve on all the computerized stuff.
My overhead display doesn't have an option for an interior light timer. The next-closest thing is the headlight timer which has been disabled this whole time.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-29-2021, 12:49 PM
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The bcm isn't communicating with the door switch, it's designed to do you a favor and prevent you from locking yourself out of the Jeep it doesn't know if the door's are open or closed and it won't trigger the passenger door module for the remote fobs until the courtesy circuit times out.

If you had the ability to scan the body module you would probably see a trouble code for the DS door switch.

Problem is most often found in the DS door wiring boot, broken wires are common there.
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-29-2021, 01:40 PM
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I donít get the courtesy light on mine, as I keep the interior lights off/gauge lights dimmed, with the switch on the stalk

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post #9 of 12 Old 01-30-2021, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterluvr View Post
The bcm isn't communicating with the door switch, it's designed to do you a favor and prevent you from locking yourself out of the Jeep it doesn't know if the door's are open or closed and it won't trigger the passenger door module for the remote fobs until the courtesy circuit times out.

If you had the ability to scan the body module you would probably see a trouble code for the DS door switch.

Problem is most often found in the DS door wiring boot, broken wires are common there.
Thanks for the explanation, this make perfect sense. I can probably pull BCM codes with my shop's scan tool.

Assuming it's door jamb wiring (I think a safe assumption), I'll add that to the list of "other problems" to fix while the Jeep is apart for head gaskets.
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-30-2021, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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Following up, the Jeep is back on the road and I started trying to dive into this.

The door jamb wiring on both the driver and passenger sides have been repaired, and it doesn't seem to be the issue. I checked for continuity and shorts on both sides, both during normal open/close and manipulating the harnesses manually. I couldn't change the behavior of the fault or make it go away.

On the overhead display, the BCM is properly displaying each door as it's opened and closed. I have the door panels removed from both sides and could use some direction on how to proceed. I did not get a chance to try pulling BCM codes yet. I checked the rear door jambs and the wiring is in good shape there.

I checked the front door ajar switches on each side, and they are operating the same. I also noticed that if the passenger door module is unplugged, the interior lights will never go out. If I plug it back in and unplug the driver door module, they will go out after the normal 30-second delay or whatever. Not sure if that means anything or not.

Could use some advice on how to proceed with diagnosis. Thanks.
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post #11 of 12 Old 08-01-2021, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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After driving it for a bit, I've observed the issue is "mostly" related to the front passenger door. If it fails to lock with RKE, an open/close of that door will normally fix it and it will usually stay working until that door is opened/closed again.

Last week, that door's window regulator failed so I took the opportunity to tear way into it while I wait for parts. I verified my previous results, checking power/ground/bus circuit continuity, from the door module (connector inserted and backprobed) to the battery terminals and the OBD2 port in the case of the bus wire. No amount of opening/closing or manual manipulation of the jamb wiring can change the resistance. Last time I had the shop's scan tool plugged in about a month ago, it had (I think several instances of) a stored code for communication faults with the passenger door module. I cleared those codes, and they have returned.

I pulled the module apart and there's nothing obvious. I couldn't check continuity from the connector socket to the board because of the conformal coating, but the soldering *looks* fine. Also, when the fault was present, wiggling the connector on the module wouldn't fix it. It seemed to need the jarring motion of opening and closing the door.

If the jamb wiring is 100% not the problem yet there is a recurring comm fault, the next-most-likely explanation is that the module itself is the culprit, correct?
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post #12 of 12 Old 08-02-2021, 06:57 AM
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Sounds like a crack in the board, either on a connection or component, that makes or break upon movement. Had the same thing happen with the turn signal relay and the wiper delay relay.

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