Cabin fan not working - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 07-06-2020, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Cabin fan not working

My cabin fan recently stopped blowing air, I can tell the cold (A/C) is working but not blowing and the heat has not ever blown out of the passenger side for me. I don't hear the blower motor running when I change the settings from low to high anymore. I've had the jeep for about 6 months and the fan was blowing okay when I bought it but not particularly great.

Any suggestion on where to start diagnosing this problem? I am wondering if the blower motor needs to be replaced, or the re circulation door broke off and is stuck blocking the air flow.

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post #2 of 20 Old 07-06-2020, 10:39 AM
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I would check the fuse first. Getting to the blower isn’t too hard. It’s under the passenger side of the dash
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post #3 of 20 Old 07-06-2020, 01:22 PM
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knowing which HVAC controls would help, there is the manual and AZC systems, the AZC has LED's for temp display.

As mentioned the fuses, often we see the resistor card fail, a easy troubleshoot with a test light.
You mention there is no low med or Hi speed? correct. we can get you a diagram to check the circuit if you can use test light and wiring diagrams.
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post #4 of 20 Old 07-06-2020, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
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knowing which HVAC controls would help, there is the manual and AZC systems, the AZC has LED's for temp display.

As mentioned the fuses, often we see the resistor card fail, a easy troubleshoot with a test light.
You mention there is no low med or Hi speed? correct. we can get you a diagram to check the circuit if you can use test light and wiring diagrams.

Cool, I appreciate the response. I know its an AZC system and I will start by checking fuses. What is the test light that you mentioned? I have a digital multimeter but that's about it for my electrical tools at the moment.
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post #5 of 20 Old 07-06-2020, 04:11 PM
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aren't you lucky, AZC the expensive harder to trouble shoot system

Great a DVOM is even better for this.

let us know if this helps
http://www.wjjeeps.com/blower_motor.htm
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 00WJ AZC blower.pdf (106.0 KB, 4 views)
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When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #6 of 20 Old 07-07-2020, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
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knowing which HVAC controls would help, there is the manual and AZC systems, the AZC has LED's for temp display.

As mentioned the fuses, often we see the resistor card fail, a easy troubleshoot with a test light.
You mention there is no low med or Hi speed? correct. we can get you a diagram to check the circuit if you can use test light and wiring diagrams.
So I pulled the fuse and it looks good to me. on these medium 40 amp fuses, how can you tell if it is blown? Would that circular metal piece be broken? I posted a picture of the one below.

On an unrelated note, I noticed on the panel fuse 35 (front o2) and 34 (rear o2) are both missing as well as fuse 17 (cal o2 sensor). But then I see a 10 amp fuse 16 (o2 sensor). Does that make sense? What does 'cal' mean?

I'm going to continue to pull the blower motor and see if that recirculation door above it is broken.
Attached Thumbnails
Fuse3.jpg   Fuse2.jpg   Fuse1.jpg  
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post #7 of 20 Old 07-07-2020, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jtec View Post
aren't you lucky, AZC the expensive harder to trouble shoot system

Great a DVOM is even better for this.

let us know if this helps
http://www.wjjeeps.com/blower_motor.htm
So I ended up pulling the blower motor, and from what I can tell, there isn't a quick disconnect on mine. I've attached a picture of the resistor that it is wired to.

When I looked up into the cavity, I didn't see the recirculation door hanging down, it was in the up position. I'm assuming the door is the flat part with the grey foam surface. I don't know if thats the door or not but I can tell there are no loose parts up there. Also, the blower motor fan seems to rotate freely in both directions.

Any suggestions on what to do next?
Attached Thumbnails
blower1.jpg   blower2.jpg   blower3.jpg  
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post #8 of 20 Old 07-07-2020, 09:34 PM
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mismatched wires, zip-ties and crimped on connectors, someone has been inside your blower motor before. with the motor out, hit the fan switch on all speeds, and see if it runs. if not, cut out the connectors and get your meter/test light out. crank up the blower, on any setting, and use your leads to see if you have voltage. if you have none at any setting, either the resistor went out across all three sides, or the switch is bad. if you do have power, hit the fan with a quick shot of 12v electricity, and see if it spins.
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post #9 of 20 Old 07-08-2020, 06:34 AM
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How are you doing with this repair?

As mentioned someone (PO) has been working on this blower system.
The blower connection has been replaced with connectors, the mentioned zip ties leave no doubt.

Its still a blower motor, two wires a neg - and a pos +, black and red. probing the wires as the system is switched low to high will determine if blower motor module* is sending voltage to blower.

* on manual sysems you have a RESISTOR, AZC uses the module just word play.
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When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
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post #10 of 20 Old 07-08-2020, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
How are you doing with this repair?

As mentioned someone (PO) has been working on this blower system.
The blower connection has been replaced with connectors, the mentioned zip ties leave no doubt.

Its still a blower motor, two wires a neg - and a pos +, black and red. probing the wires as the system is switched low to high will determine if blower motor module* is sending voltage to blower.

* on manual sysems you have a RESISTOR, AZC uses the module just word play.
So I ended up hooking the battery back up and cranking up the fan setting with the blower motor on the floor and it definitely runs and seems pretty solid. It really moves when cranked up to the high setting. The only things that I have done are pulled that fuse and re-installed it, and moved the blower and wires around a bit. I didn't realize how quiet the blower motor was, so perhaps it was working while it was installed before but I didn't know what to listen for.

Some other observations are that when I turn the setting to anything except the left 3 options (the 2 defrost and air to the feet), it automatically turned the A/C LED on, even when the temperature is at 80 degrees. So essentially when I turn to any of the 4 right most settings, the A/C is on. I also noticed that the Recirculation door does not move when I push the button in. The LED doesn't work either for the recirculation door. I don't know what position the recirculation door is in at the moment. Should I be able to see it move through the back of the glove box?

At this point, is there anything else worth looking at behind the glove box? Or should I button up the blower motor and glove box and see if it runs when re-assembled? If it runs, i'm wondering if something else is blocking the airflow from going through the vents.
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post #11 of 20 Old 07-08-2020, 01:20 PM
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reassemble and advise.
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post #12 of 20 Old 07-08-2020, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jtec View Post
reassemble and advise.
Well i've got good news; I re-installed the blower motor and it is running real solid, pretty much more airflow than i've felt before. Also, the recirculation door is working fine as well as the LED. I think either some bad connection got bumped or that fuse had a bad connection that was fixed when I pulled it and re-installed it.

The only HVAC issue that I still have now is that the heat doesn't come thru on the passenger side, it comes through fine on the driver side. It has always been like that since i've owned the jeep (6 months) and the previous owner warned me of that.

Is this the common blend door issue that is fairly time intensive or is this one that can be fixed more easily?
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post #13 of 20 Old 07-08-2020, 09:16 PM
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The blend door can be replaced without removing the dash. Search Youtube for the video.
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post #14 of 20 Old 07-08-2020, 09:57 PM
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If you have a zone that wont react to the controls, then you have a blend door issue. They are all to common to fall apart after 20 years. Cutting a hole in the front of the heater box behind the glove box makes this pretty easy to fix. You just need the new doors to install once you get in there. I installed the kit that retains the separate zones, but later had to go back in there to lock the two doors together because the actuator to the passenger side was faulty. Replacing this actuator requires removing the entire dash and heater box assembly, and i wasnt interested in that. It works perfectly now with just the left side temp knob operating both sides. Might be something to consider when you order the parts....
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post #15 of 20 Old 07-08-2020, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bigrigr View Post
If you have a zone that wont react to the controls, then you have a blend door issue. They are all to common to fall apart after 20 years. Cutting a hole in the front of the heater box behind the glove box makes this pretty easy to fix. You just need the new doors to install once you get in there. I installed the kit that retains the separate zones, but later had to go back in there to lock the two doors together because the actuator to the passenger side was faulty. Replacing this actuator requires removing the entire dash and heater box assembly, and i wasnt interested in that. It works perfectly now with just the left side temp knob operating both sides. Might be something to consider when you order the parts....
Thanks, thats real good info to have man. I think i'm going to address it later on since there are some other items higher up on the list that need attention first. What did that fix end up costing you for the new doors?
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