A/C compressor job, basic advice please - JeepForum.com
 7Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 18 Old 09-10-2019, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
the88thpianoman
Registered User
 
the88thpianoman's Avatar
2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tampa
Posts: 5,254
A/C compressor job, basic advice please

A/C has not held up well to the Florida heat for a good ten years now, but the compressor clutch is now grinding, so it's time to bite the bullet.

I've just ordered the brand new Denso compressor. Couldn't imagine using anything else, but opinions are welcome.

The condenser was replaced about 5 or 6 years ago, with the original mopar part. There was a cheaper mopar condensor available, but I went with the original factory part. I feel like this should still be good to re-use, but I would love confirmation of this, or for experience here to steer me into replacing it again anyways.

I have an expansion valve and drier assembly; these are auto part store brands that are unused, but I've had them in storage for a good five years. I'm torn between trying these parts to see how they fare, or dropping the $90 on a new mopar expansion valve, and however much a new mopar drier assembly costs, to ensure I'm getting the coldest air possible.

Should I chance it with these shelf-aged cheap parts, or is there a likely benefit to spending the extra on newer mopar parts?

Evap core isn't leaking, so that's going to remain factory original for now, unless there's any chance it could in any way degrade the new compressor? I plan to get to the HVAC sub-assembly sometime in the next year, and will get the evap core done then. Outside of having to repeat the r134a vacuum and recharge, is there any crucial reason to replace the evap core at the same time as the compressor?

Anything else I should be aware of, other parts I should replace, wiring I should upgrade? I understand the basic fundamentals, but I have no serious experience and have never had to have a compressor replaced.

I appreciate any input.

magster3880 likes this.

2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.

Check out my build thread here:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
the88thpianoman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 18 Old 09-11-2019, 08:15 AM
99sajeep
Registered User
 
99sajeep's Avatar
2005 WK 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 653
Quote:
Originally Posted by the88thpianoman View Post
Should I chance it with these shelf-aged cheap parts, or is there a likely benefit to spending the extra on newer mopar parts?
Your condenser should be fine unless you notice any dirt/debris in the lines when you open everything up. As for the parts you already have, those should be fine also. The expansion valve will be good and as long as you kept the plugs on the ends of the drier (to keep outside air out), then it should be good too. Keep in mind, those parts sat on a shelf for who-knows-how-long before you bought them and they were fine to use. Just make sure you get a good vacuum pump on the system and let it sit for a couple hours pulling vacuum. That will dry out anything on the inside of the system.

Quote:
Outside of having to repeat the r134a vacuum and recharge, is there any crucial reason to replace the evap core at the same time as the compressor?
I've replaced 3 evap cores in my driving career that has spanned over 30 yrs:
'85 Motorhome that was 20 yrs old
'99 WJ that was 10 years old
'11 Focus that was 7 yrs old

There is no set time-period for changing out evap cores. They just die whenever they decide to die!
As for changing yours, if you have the extra day to get the dash out and change it, then now would be as good of a time as any. If not, then wait. It could last another 15 years.

Mostly, the death of an evap core depends highly on the amount of dirt and crud that gets into the vent system and then builds up on the fins. This, combined with the typical moisture created, causes the corrosion that eats up the aluminum and creates a hole. Turning the AC system off and blowing outside air thru the vents for a couple minutes when you get home every night (before it sits all night long), can do wonders to keeping an evap core alive!

'99 WJ 4x4 Ltd 4.7L (sold)
'05 WK 4x4 Ltd 5.7L (mine) 200k+ club
'01 WJ 4x4 Laredo 4.7L (daughter)
99sajeep is offline  
post #3 of 18 Old 09-11-2019, 08:19 AM
99sajeep
Registered User
 
99sajeep's Avatar
2005 WK 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 653
A side note: pulling the dash out is also a great time to replace all the worn out foam seals on the vent system & blend doors. This alone can be a major contributing factor to the effectiveness of your AC system.
When the foam goes bad, that wonderful cold air leaks out everywhere inside the dash and doesn't go anywhere near your body, thus creating the illusion that your AC system isn't working all that great!

'99 WJ 4x4 Ltd 4.7L (sold)
'05 WK 4x4 Ltd 5.7L (mine) 200k+ club
'01 WJ 4x4 Laredo 4.7L (daughter)
99sajeep is offline  
 
post #4 of 18 Old 09-11-2019, 12:13 PM
csgalle
Registered User
2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 32
Seems like you're good to go. I like your compromise between "ain't broke don't fix it" and "preventive maintenance".

Just make sure to pull a vacuum on it for an hour or so like 99sa said. That will tell you if have a leak somewhere. If it holds vac then you know your system is sealed. Charge to spec and enjoy your AC.
csgalle is offline  
post #5 of 18 Old 09-11-2019, 11:32 PM
rep-tile
Cash 4 Clunkers Survivor
 
rep-tile's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: bakersfield
Posts: 1,442
Interesting b/c I've just replaced my compressor due to bad clutch last weekend, it decided to turn into mush and almost caught the Jeep on fire. Never thought this would happen.

It seems you want to tackle too much work for the added value. Evap core? no. Condenser? no. Drier? YES. TXV valve? would be silly not to while the system is opened, especially if you have one laying around. They can fail.

There are no expiration dates on expansion valves or driers. However, I would make sure the drier is still sealed. I have been replacing mine with 4 Seasons parts from Rockauto and been happy with this brand. Mopar is all rebranded stuff anyway, who knows who makes it. 90 bucks for an expansion valve is INSANE money.

Make sure to keep those little valve caps until you're ready to hook them up to the ac lines to prevent dirt from getting in during install.
Attached Thumbnails
20190907_160021.jpg  
wildbill23c likes this.

04 WJ 4.0 - Avital 4103, DB-ALL
91 XJ 4.0 - Avital 4103, Stage-2 aFe intake system, BBK high flow Throttle Body, Jones Exhaust A3518M-5
rep-tile is offline  
post #6 of 18 Old 09-12-2019, 12:28 PM
AVR2
Web Wheeler
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 4,293
Bear in mind that the warranty on your compressor will likely depend on being able to provide proof (such as a work order or receipts) that the AC system was flushed and the dryer (and possibly expansion valve) replaced with new parts. Not OEM (as said there's nothing special about Mopar), just new.
wildbill23c likes this.
AVR2 is offline  
post #7 of 18 Old 09-12-2019, 06:49 PM
wjkeith
Registered User
 
wjkeith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 103
Garage
Does the system hold a charge? ie no leaks. If so why not just replace the a/c compressor clutch. Had this same issue on my old Dakota and a clutch from the junk yard fixed me up.
As for parts, I did the a/c system a few months back. Everything except evap core and compressor. Cost was under $300 and the job was fairly simple. I think I used Four Seasons parts from Rock Auto.
wildbill23c and carynickel like this.
wjkeith is offline  
post #8 of 18 Old 09-12-2019, 07:53 PM
carynickel
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjkeith View Post
Does the system hold a charge? ie no leaks. If so why not just replace the a/c compressor clutch. Had this same issue on my old Dakota and a clutch from the junk yard fixed me up.
As for parts, I did the a/c system a few months back. Everything except evap core and compressor. Cost was under $300 and the job was fairly simple. I think I used Four Seasons parts from Rock Auto.
^^^^ This.

I just replaced the clutch on the compressor on our 1999 Dodge 1500 with 170000-plus miles on it. I don't know if the compressor is original, but the clutch was fried. It would work for about 10-15 minutes, then once the clutch cycled, it would never stick in again until it cooled off. While I was doing the tests, the clutch would pop in while I pressed on it with a screwdriver, and it would sometimes throw a shower of sparks. That was a sight to see! The clutch plate and pressure surface on the pulley were seriously grooved and wore right down to the rivets. The electromagnet was actually melted in a couple places, and had cracks all around the resin. It was in pretty rough shape, but the compressor itself still worked, and the thing blows ice cold air while it's working.

I replaced the clutch today. Not a terrible job, but the snap rings are kind of booger to get to. Particularly the one that holds the electromagnet on. I did all the work while the compressor was right there on the truck, and it's working like a charm for the first time in a couple years. I made a custom pair of snap ring pliers by grinding down the tips on an old pair of needle-nose pliers.
wildbill23c likes this.
carynickel is offline  
post #9 of 18 Old 09-12-2019, 08:35 PM
wildbill23c
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 285
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjkeith View Post
Does the system hold a charge? ie no leaks. If so why not just replace the a/c compressor clutch. Had this same issue on my old Dakota and a clutch from the junk yard fixed me up.
As for parts, I did the a/c system a few months back. Everything except evap core and compressor. Cost was under $300 and the job was fairly simple. I think I used Four Seasons parts from Rock Auto.
I agree with this as well, if the AC is working properly, why not just replace the compressor's clutch? Unless you are having more issues than you have stated so far, it makes no sense to replace a working compressor and completely opening up the AC system and having to replace o-rings, accumulator, etc. as a result and then having to vacuum, test for leaks, and recharge the system.

Is your compressor actually not working properly as well?
carynickel likes this.
wildbill23c is offline  
post #10 of 18 Old 09-13-2019, 06:02 AM
99sajeep
Registered User
 
99sajeep's Avatar
2005 WK 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 653
Replacing the clutch can be an option, but it depends on the vehicle and the compressor.
I've replaced just a clutch before on a '95 Tahoe. A new compressor was over $200, a new clutch was $75 so it seemed to make sense, until I had to buy a special $70 tool to get the clutch off. I did it anyway and then resold the tool.
But I wasn't so lucky when the clutch went out on one of my old Explorers. A new clutch wasn't available.

Sometimes the price difference isn't a lot between clutch and whole compressor. At that point myself, I might be more inclined to open up the system anyway and do a little cleaning. But then, AC systems don't scare me anymore these days...

'99 WJ 4x4 Ltd 4.7L (sold)
'05 WK 4x4 Ltd 5.7L (mine) 200k+ club
'01 WJ 4x4 Laredo 4.7L (daughter)
99sajeep is offline  
post #11 of 18 Old 09-13-2019, 11:10 PM
rep-tile
Cash 4 Clunkers Survivor
 
rep-tile's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: bakersfield
Posts: 1,442
I have tried once to pull a clutch off an ac compressor using a designated puller. Won't try again, ever.

04 WJ 4.0 - Avital 4103, DB-ALL
91 XJ 4.0 - Avital 4103, Stage-2 aFe intake system, BBK high flow Throttle Body, Jones Exhaust A3518M-5
rep-tile is offline  
post #12 of 18 Old 09-14-2019, 08:10 AM
carynickel
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by rep-tile View Post
I have tried once to pull a clutch off an ac compressor using a designated puller. Won't try again, ever.
What did you experience when you last tried to change an A/C compressor clutch?

I was lucky with the compressor clutch on our old Dodge truck. I "rented/borrowed" a puller kit from a local auto parts chain, only to find my clutch plate didn't have the threaded holes the puller needs. Then I found I was able to pry the clutch plate off with two screwdrivers, and it slid right off the splined shaft with very little effort.

Regarding the main pulley: It was difficult to get a three-jaw puller into the space between the clutch pulley and radiator shroud, so I sprayed some penetrating oil around the nose of the compressor housing and found I was able to tap the old pulley/bearing assembly off with a mallet. Since it slides onto part of the compressor housing, and not onto the shaft, there was no fear of damaging bearings or seals in the compressor.

When I tried to use the borrowed kit to install the new pulley/bearing assembly, I found that a previous "borrower" had broken that particular tool in the set. So I ended up tapping the new pulley/bearing assembly on with a rubber mallet. Once again, since it's going onto the nose of the compressor housing, and not onto the shaft, no worries about damaging seals or bearings in the compressor. Then the new clutch plate slid onto the splined shaft by hand.

Turned out, I didn't find one single part of the proper tool kit useful in my situation, and I was able to do the whole thing with tools I'd already had.
carynickel is offline  
post #13 of 18 Old 09-14-2019, 04:15 PM
99wjtx
Registered User
 
99wjtx's Avatar
2001 WJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 322
The 10PA17 compressor is well engineered and exceptionally rugged. It can be found on a variety of applications beyond the WJ - from Hondas to John Deere tractors. Unless one has been abused (like an oil issue) or had a manufacturing defect, it should last hundreds of thousands of miles. On the other hand, the clutch can be expected to wear out 2 to 3 times before the compressor will. Clutch kits for it vary somewhat depending on the application - the difference is the pulley but the kit that fits the WJ can be found online for as low as the mid $30 range on up to about $90.

Search for these part numbers and interchange:

CK101, k101, 10349340, CO 22034U, 0677379, 11177379, 000901 77379, 471-0400, 471-0278, 471-0359, 20-11501-R

Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 and 4.7 (1999-2004)
Jeep TJ (2000-2006)
Jeep Wrangler (2000-2006)

Note: The 4.0 compressor and the 4.7 compressor don't interchange due to the difference in the mounting points on the compressor housing but the clutch components do interchange.

1999 WJ Limited 4.7/NV247
2001 WJ Laredo 4.7/NP242
99wjtx is offline  
post #14 of 18 Old 09-14-2019, 04:59 PM
AVR2
Web Wheeler
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 4,293
I can say from experience of replacing the pulley bearing on the 10PA17 on my 1992 ZJ (yes, the 10PA17 is old enough to have been the OEM compressor on the ZJ) that the pulley should come off without a puller - just spin off the (10mm?) bolt that holds the clutch, remove the clutch plate (making sure not to lose any shims), and then remove the snap ring holding the pulley on. It should then just slide off with a bit of persuasion from a rubber mallet or similar.
AVR2 is offline  
post #15 of 18 Old 09-16-2019, 11:56 AM
thechainrule
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chicago
Posts: 86
What is the best method for testing if the AC clutch and evap are bad?
thechainrule is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
WaveJedi
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome