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post #1 of 7 Old 06-03-2020, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
MojaveMike45
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Burped?

99 4.7, 160k, runs @210 temp, had to block off leaking drain petcock, refilled & burped per all the posts, (up to temp, rad capped, bleeder open with plastic funnel in place half filled, watching small bubbles, occasionally reving engine for more bubbles, 45 mins). 3 times now, still got a waterfall. No water or antifreeze in oil per my observations & Blackstone Labs (was thinking maybe little head gasket leak).


Last edited by MojaveMike45; 06-03-2020 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Mis spell
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post #2 of 7 Old 06-03-2020, 05:10 PM
Double E
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If that's the original radiator, it's needs to be swapped. They clog up and do not allow good circulation. Low circulation would also keep that air in the heater core.

If when it gets that hot, you can run your heater full blast and see the temp coming back down, it is a circulation issue. If not, it could be as simple as a bad cap, not holding pressure.

230 is bad... glad you're working through it.

'04 Freedom Edition HO & '04 Overland HO (previous '00 Laredo 4.7)
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post #3 of 7 Old 06-03-2020, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
MojaveMike45
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My bad, I meant 210, just below the mark, if I ever saw 230, I would just plain stop, (unless beer run), when I see above 210 I ease up & turn off the ac
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post #4 of 7 Old 06-03-2020, 06:25 PM
speednjay
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Make sure you run the heater when your getting the bubbles out
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post #5 of 7 Old 06-03-2020, 11:44 PM
Bigrigr
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Yes, 210 is pretty normal. I have seen several of these 4.7's that run there all day. My WJ however, never gets above 200, unless I'm on a hard clinb offroad, then it goes up to 210, but never above that. But this is after I swapped in a new radiator, thermostat, fan clutch and Ranger fan blades.



I have never revved the engine to "push" out the bubbles. It seems to want to puke out when you do that. (water pump creates a surge in the system when you rev it up that can be a bit delayed) I just keep a clear hose vertical on a brass nipple threaded into the bleed port hole 3/4 full and let it idle until the bubbles stop.( a funnel can make it hard as the funnel sits on the bottom of the hole partially blocking the bubbles from getting out) Then shut it off and let it sit for a couple hrs, then recheck the level in the hose. If it drops at all, add more coolant, let it sit some more, and recheck. Keep doing this until it stops dropping. Then you should be good to seal it up and drive it. Then double check the coolant level under the radiator cap for the next couple days, before the initial startup for the day. Top off as needed until it stops dropping. Only then do you worry about whats in the overflow bottle. If the coolant level in the radiator isnt right to the top of the neck under the radiator cap,at all times, the overflow bottle is useless anyways. FWIW

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #6 of 7 Old 06-04-2020, 07:30 AM
Double E
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Bigrigr has a great point in the use of the funnel. The end of the funnel going in prevents all air from escaping. A fitting like described would be great.
I need to find a fitting like that...

Agree that 210 is fine and we normally see space between the 210 mark and the right side of the needle... remember that since the liquid is under pressure, it will not boil at 212, but at a higher temperature like 250 or so. (I'm sure there's a proper calculation for it.)

'04 Freedom Edition HO & '04 Overland HO (previous '00 Laredo 4.7)
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post #7 of 7 Old 06-05-2020, 08:48 AM
Bigrigr
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Only issue I have with the hose/fitting setup, is i want a little stiffer hose, but the only clear stuff i could get my hands on easily at the time is kinda floppy. I ended up sitting a jug of water on the valve cover and ziptied the hose to the handle to keep it standing up straight.

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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