Blower motor "wohhs" - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-16-2019, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
RUBtjICON
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Blower motor "wohhs"

2002 Grand Cherokee Limited V8

A couple years ago, I had to change the little control module, or whatever that thing is called that the passengers toes almost hit. It had melted on the inside.

Today, I left it running while I ran into the store. I came back and my son said the air stopped. Sure enough blower wont work even a little. So I checked the fuse under the hood, and it was blown (it was also a 50A not a 40A). I went to snap in a new fuse, as soon as the metal touched the prongs, it sparked and blew the fuse instantly.

Is it possible that the control box has melted again, and shorted out internally? The module did not feel to be hot. I just hope I don't have to pull the entire dash out.

I love these V8 WJ's, but man they have strange issues.


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post #2 of 12 Old 09-17-2019, 04:52 AM
99wjtx
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It could be that the blower motor resistor/regulator has gone out again. The way you describe the problem sounds like that could be it.

I lack the patience to be a good electrical troubleshooting guru so maybe someone else will speak up. I do know that you don't have to pull the dash to replace that module. I did it about a year ago and it was not a difficult or time-consuming repair.

In my case I don't think it ever blew a fuse or actually melted but melting is often described by others who have experienced that particular failure.

1999 WJ Limited 4.7/NV247
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post #3 of 12 Old 09-17-2019, 05:28 AM
jtec
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Two system in the WJ, a manual simple knobs and a AZC with led temp controls L/R sides- which one is in your jeep?

I am guessing fuse #1 PDC a 40 amp, next unplug blower motor, did the fuse blow when installed with it unplugged?
next inspect -my guess- the wiring connector at the blower resistor - often evidence of melting advise..

Are you comfortable with a wiring diagram and a DVOM or test light?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #4 of 12 Old 09-17-2019, 06:14 AM
HarryH3
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Usually, when the blower resistor fails, it is because the motor is drawing excess current. The bushings on the motor shaft dry out and work the motor harder and harder. If you only replaced the resistor, the motor is still drawing excess current. Check to see if the wiring melted again. If so, replace the resistor AND the blower motor. The motor comes out easily. It's only held in by 3 or 4 screws, easily accessible under the glove box.
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-17-2019, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
Two system in the WJ, a manual simple knobs and a AZC with led temp controls L/R sides- which one is in your jeep?

I am guessing fuse #1 PDC a 40 amp, next unplug blower motor, did the fuse blow when installed with it unplugged?
next inspect -my guess- the wiring connector at the blower resistor - often evidence of melting advise..

Are you comfortable with a wiring diagram and a DVOM or test light?
Thanks for the tips guys. This one has the dual zone climate control. Just a bunch of needless crap of you ask me haha

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post #6 of 12 Old 09-17-2019, 10:54 AM
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Also, look at the blower resistor plug. If the pins are discolored clean them or replace them. Bad connections can draw to much current, causing heat to build up and damage wires and / or connector.
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-17-2019, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kempfej View Post
Also, look at the blower resistor plug. If the pins are discolored clean them or replace them. Bad connections can draw to much current, causing heat to build up and damage wires and / or connector.
I swapped the resistor and the plugs from my '99 Limited. The plugs had melted into the resistor on my '02 . Thank God I had a complete parts vehicle.

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post #8 of 12 Old 09-17-2019, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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I unplugged the connector from the resistor. After that, I can put the fuse in and nothing happens. As soon as I put the connector back on the resistor, the fuse blows.

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post #9 of 12 Old 09-18-2019, 01:50 PM
xcaliber81
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The cure to the resistor melting is to replace the blower motor. Even if your factory one works the resistance to spin the fan on the motor increases causing strain on the resistor. I caught mine before all this happened. Just an fyi.
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post #10 of 12 Old 09-22-2019, 03:57 PM
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I wish you had blower motor "woos" and not "wohhs". If you had blower motor "woos", I would immediately recommend the Ric Flair Repair Kit, BABY! Cause it's the BEST, better than all the REST, and ALWAYS passes the TEST.
Wwoooooooooo

2002 Laredo. Baloo.
2004 Rocky Mountain Edition. Froggy Bandit. Wife's Daily Driver. PRISTINE! Stock height and may stay that way.....
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post #11 of 12 Old 09-22-2019, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattyjm View Post
I wish you had blower motor "woos" and not "wohhs". If you had blower motor "woos", I would immediately recommend the Ric Flair Repair Kit, BABY! Cause it's the BEST, better than all the REST, and ALWAYS passes the TEST.
Wwoooooooooo
Lol nice

I got one of those aftermarket kits to fix it, with the longet heatsinks or whatever. The fan doesnt run as fast as it used to. Guess I'm going to order a stocker.

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post #12 of 12 Old 09-24-2019, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, the new style kit, just doesn't seem right. Anyone else tried one of those with the longer heat sink? The fan doesnt seem to be blowing as fast as it used to. Any ideas? Inside the box where the resistor mounts, is there anything to get jammed on the longer heat sink?

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