Best Replacement, Oil Pressure Sending Unit - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 10-20-2021, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
GmanWJ
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Best Replacement, Oil Pressure Sending Unit

Hey guys -
My oil pressure sending unit has quit. Family emergency going on so I am in a bit of a hurry to get this replaced ASAP and with the best part I can find, I am in no mood to futz around with sub-par replacements. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.


Part Number is 56028 807AB for a 2002 4.7L.



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post #2 of 17 Old 10-20-2021, 10:52 AM
Soem0
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Grab a mopar. I got mine from the dealer. It wasn't too expensive. I also had to buy the sensor pigtail myself because mine was destroyed
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post #3 of 17 Old 10-20-2021, 11:23 AM
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I used an el-cheap-o from Amazon without issue, but that is always a gamble. I'll 2nd the "grab a Mopar", if you don't wanna mess around. If it's not leaking yet, replace it before it does - I have twice now seen them blow apart shortly after they failed....

Mother Mopar online shows about $53 for OEM, I'd expect your local dealer to be about the same.

I know a lot of guys look to Crown Automotive for OEM quality too. But don't go by my word on that - I've not used the Crown in this flavor. Summit lists Crown at $37.

2004 WJ 4.7 N, daily driver
1967 Jeep J100 panel truck (a-rusted development)
1970 'Cuda, 340 4bbl (10.952et @ 123mph)
1972 Dart Swinger, Gen III 6.4l Hemi (11.223 @ 113mph)
1974 AMC Gremlin X, 440 6bbl (sold)
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post #4 of 17 Old 10-20-2021, 11:31 AM
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Yeah I want to say my mopar one from dealer was 55 and the damn pig tail was like 45 lol
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post #5 of 17 Old 10-20-2021, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. I called my local Jeep dealer but it will take two days to get the sensor so I red labeled a Crown from Summit.


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post #6 of 17 Old 10-20-2021, 12:25 PM
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Screw that dealer crap...for the OPSU, just get the one that's cheap and close if you need it now.
Remember that the OEM unit failed too and at least the local parts store will hand you another one in 4 years when theirs fails but the dealer will certainly not.

"We have it totally under control. Itís one person coming in from China. We have it under control. Itís going to be just fine." ~D. Trump, Jan 22, 2020.
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post #7 of 17 Old 10-20-2021, 04:54 PM
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Mine didn't fail. Someone broke the hell out of the pigtail lol
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post #8 of 17 Old 10-20-2021, 05:00 PM
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"Someone" Soem0 ???.......

'77 Chevy C10 pickup
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post #9 of 17 Old 10-20-2021, 05:20 PM
Soem0
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Nope not me. Came with my dropped valve seat motor when I bought it. Someone JB welded the busted pigtail to the sensor lol. I was trying to find a pic of it but I was probably too mad when I was removing it
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post #10 of 17 Old 10-21-2021, 10:35 AM
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It will certainly fail, OEM or not. That's why so many of us already know about it.

"We have it totally under control. Itís one person coming in from China. We have it under control. Itís going to be just fine." ~D. Trump, Jan 22, 2020.
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post #11 of 17 Old 10-24-2021, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Hot tip: you need a 27mm deep socket to swap out this sensor. Did not have one, cost me $10 to get one.

I swapped in the Crown replacement and put 500 miles on it the next day. Working fine, I think.
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post #12 of 17 Old 10-25-2021, 09:37 AM
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I put a tee off the engine to allow a mechanical gauge along with the factory gauge to keep the computer happy. Did it when I replaced the heads to see oil pressure while cranking to prelube the lifters, it is scary to see just how little oil pressure there is hot at idle. My Crown replacement is still leak free after a year.

2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
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post #13 of 17 Old 10-25-2021, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cDee63 View Post
I put a tee off the engine to allow a mechanical gauge along with the factory gauge to keep the computer happy. Did it when I replaced the heads to see oil pressure while cranking to prelube the lifters, it is scary to see just how little oil pressure there is hot at idle. My Crown replacement is still leak free after a year.
Ditto. I run a Bosch oil psi and a coolant temp gauge (temp probe dropped in the air bleed port) under the hood. Same combo on most of my cars. '03-04 WJ's run a glorified idiot light for oil (With a single wire sending unit the gauge can literally only show psi present/not present - it may as well be a light bulb). The scale on that dash gauge literally means nothing. Someone may correct me, but I am pretty sure only '03-04 ran this worthless set-up, as I think the earlier models have a 3 wire sending unit. Besides that lying a** gauge, if I am poking about under the hood of a running car I am NOT looking at warning lamps and gauges on the dash board. I once had a rot hole on an oil pan give way on my '72 Dart at the drag strip - holding the RPMs at about 2500 in the pits while poking with a timing light, I seized up a 450hp 340-6bbl before I even noticed I was literally standing in a lake of oil. The few seconds I was pondering why it seemed like the engine was loading up and I think I smell hot oil is all took before it was all over. I've added the oil gauge under the hood ever since. Unless it is still under warranty, it at bare minimum gets an oil psi gauge.

In other news, the generic brand one wire sending unit I bought from Amazon for $17 still works fine a year later. But I still stand by my earlier comment to stick with Mopar to minimize gambling losses in general. I myself, am a gambler....

2004 WJ 4.7 N, daily driver
1967 Jeep J100 panel truck (a-rusted development)
1970 'Cuda, 340 4bbl (10.952et @ 123mph)
1972 Dart Swinger, Gen III 6.4l Hemi (11.223 @ 113mph)
1974 AMC Gremlin X, 440 6bbl (sold)
1975 Jeep Cherokee Sport 2-door (in progress)
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post #14 of 17 Old 10-25-2021, 01:38 PM
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I believe you're right, 03-04 has the idiot gauge. I do remember sitting in meetings at Jeep Truck Engineering back in the day listening to engineers discussing customer perception of gauge movement. Fuel gauges move faster closer to empty, temp gauges are damped to move s l o w, and most customers do not like an oil pressure gauge that moves around. Not to mention it saves .02 cents per vehicle having 2 less wires, lol.
Years ago a mechanical gauge saved my Suburban engine. I had replaced a timing chain set, about a week after on start up I noticed the gauge read zero. Immediately shut it down and started it again just to make sure, zero again. It was very cold (-16) and the thick oil sheared the pump drive shaft at the distributor.

2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
1974 Ironhead Sportster, total custom
High speed, low drag
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post #15 of 17 Old 10-26-2021, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Well I had an interesting drive yesterday but I made it home. Started continually misfiring so I key danced and found P0523, OPSU voltage high. Also throwing P0300, P0301, P0302 but are they all related? Idk, suspect not.

Barely idles but can move if I keep the RPMs up.


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