Any RVers on here? WJ used as a TOAD? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 26 Old 05-27-2020, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
HarveyCat
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Any knowledge or advice? It is a 23' Class "C" and a 2003 4.0L Grand Cherokee.

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post #2 of 26 Old 05-27-2020, 08:58 PM
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I don't RV but I would imagine it can be done with regular tow bar and hookups IF you have a TC with selectable Neutral (242, 247). Other sites suggest same, just leave transmission in park and TC in neutral.

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post #3 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 05:01 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by coldspit47 View Post
I don't RV but I would imagine it can be done with regular tow bar and hookups IF you have a TC with selectable Neutral (242, 247). Other sites suggest same, just leave transmission in park and TC in neutral.
Hi Coldspit47

Does my 2003 4.0L have a 242 Transfer Case / Selec-Trac? If I leave Transmission in Park and TC in Neutral will it roll freely? Can I tow it with no wear for thousands of miles?
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post #4 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 07:09 AM
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Look at the bottom of the shifter bezel. It will tell you what transfer case you have. I'm betting you have the select-trac system with the 242LD. It has a true neutral position. You can tow this way, but it does still cause wear and tear on the drivetrain obviously....
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'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #5 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 08:45 AM
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I tow mine back and forth from Houston to Red River NM twice a year it does great. I actually use HK Off road hidden winch mount and smitty built tow bar off the shackle tabs. Follow instruction above regarding t case in N and trans in P and don't forget to leave key in ignition in unlocked position so front wheels can steer still.
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post #6 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
HarveyCat
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Originally Posted by Bigrigr View Post
Look at the bottom of the shifter bezel. It will tell you what transfer case you have. I'm betting you have the select-trac system with the 242LD. It has a true neutral position....
Please see photo - mine just says "Select-Trac"

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...You can tow this way, but it does still cause wear and tear on the drivetrain obviously....
Would changing the fluids be wise? Also is dropping the drive shaft easy and/or helpful?
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post #7 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LuthWJ77 View Post
I tow mine back and forth from Houston to Red River NM twice a year it does great. I actually use HK Off road hidden winch mount and smitty built tow bar off the shackle tabs. Follow instruction above regarding t case in N and trans in P and don't forget to leave key in ignition in unlocked position so front wheels can steer still.
Great info - do you like any RV forums? Do you have any photos either yours or off the web of what you mean? Cheers
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post #8 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 10:11 AM
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Please see photo - mine just says "Select-Trac"



Would changing the fluids be wise? Also is dropping the drive shaft easy and/or helpful?
Selec-Trac is the NV/NP (New Venture or New Process, changed names partway through the build series) 242. Great TC, my personal favorite. You pull back on the TC selector stick until it stops at 4 Full Time, then push down and pull back into neutral. Dropping the driveshaft is pretty easy but not necessary. WJs have 100% live axles and always-locked hubs, meaning any time the wheels turn, they will always turn the axle shafts, differential gears, driveshafts, and output gears in the transfer case. So disconnecting the driveshaft would save a small amount of driveline wear but the diffs and axle shafts will still be rolling. Putting the transfer case into neutral allows the output gears to spin freely without also turning the input gear connecting to the transmission.

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post #9 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
HarveyCat
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Originally Posted by coldspit47 View Post

Selec-Trac is the NV/NP (New Venture or New Process, changed names partway through the build series) 242. Great TC, my personal favorite. You pull back on the TC selector stick until it stops at 4 Full Time, then push down and pull back into neutral. Dropping the driveshaft is pretty easy but not necessary. WJs have 100% live axles and always-locked hubs, meaning any time the wheels turn, they will always turn the axle shafts, differential gears, driveshafts, and output gears in the transfer case. So disconnecting the driveshaft would save a small amount of driveline wear but the diffs and axle shafts will still be rolling. Putting the transfer case into neutral allows the output gears to spin freely without also turning the input gear connecting to the transmission.
Cool! Great info! Makes things clean and easy! How about changing the TC fluids?
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post #10 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 11:19 AM
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Mine was used as a TOAD by its previous owner. It doesn't seem to have had any negative effects. I think someone disabled the steering wheel lock (as mine doesn't work!) so that the key would not need to be left in the rig. It also had a Brake Buddy system installed. It had its own vacuum system for the power brakes and a pneumatic cylinder/cable/pulley setup that would press (pull from the firewall really) the brake pedal in the WJ to act as a fancy trailer brake.
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post #11 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Mine was used as a TOAD by its previous owner. It doesn't seem to have had any negative effects. I think someone disabled the steering wheel lock (as mine doesn't work!) so that the key would not need to be left in the rig. It also had a Brake Buddy system installed. It had its own vacuum system for the power brakes and a pneumatic cylinder/cable/pulley setup that would press (pull from the firewall really) the brake pedal in the WJ to act as a fancy trailer brake.
Great info - thanks! I didn't realize you could do all that. Did you remove the brake buddy now? Are you selling it? 😀 is Brake Buddy the name? Does it have a model number? Is it easy to remove the steering wheel lock?
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post #12 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 11:39 AM
HarryH3
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Most of the brake buddy had already been removed when I got the WJ. They make several different versions as seen here: http://www.brakebuddy.com/
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post #13 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 12:58 PM
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Most of the brake buddy had already been removed when I got the WJ. They make several different versions as seen here: http://www.brakebuddy.com/
My parents towed a minivan with that type of setup for years. The only problem was my dad didn't get it set up quite right (he had to put a controller on the peddle each time, not sure of the newer ones) one time and it put some pressure on the braking system and he burnt (heated/wore out) the brakes. Just a heads up that if you go that route be sure to set it up correctly.
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post #14 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 01:44 PM
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Cool! Great info! Makes things clean and easy! How about changing the TC fluids?
Sorry, totally skipped over that part of your question...my bad. Never a bad idea to change diff/TC fluids before a long tow or trip. Should be changed about every 30k anyways (under service interval A), so if you've never done it and/or don't know when it was last done, go ahead and do it now. If you have ANY braking issues, get them squared away beforehand, as you won't feel a seized brake caliper on the WJ from the RV.

Take a look at this site at your leisure, it gives you service intervals, part numbers (or equivalent), and LOADS of other info. It's basically the Jeeper's handbook for WJs.
http://www.wjjeeps.com/service/maintenance_wj.htm

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post #15 of 26 Old 05-28-2020, 02:39 PM
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Great info - do you like any RV forums? Do you have any photos either yours or off the web of what you mean? Cheers
I actually don't have an RV just tow it behind my F250 since my WJ is a trail toy primarily. I don't have any pictures of the set up but just imagine your normal tow bar but attached to the recovery shackles of a typical off road style bumper. That's it super simple no brakes or anything and just throw magnetic lights on top and plug them into the truck and go.
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