AC Blues :( - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 11 Old 08-13-2020, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
TrueGrit
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AC Blues :(

So yesterday I installed a new ac compressor, accumulator, receiver / dryer and expansion drive.

The ac has a strong charge and the vent seems to be blowing hard, however the ac temp IMHO can be much cooler.

I haven't put a thermostat on the vents to see what the temp is but I think there is something else that could be wrong.

I know I been getting a little but of the door blend door foam particles coming onto my dash. I can confirm that when turning the dial knob to control the blower from the front vents, to floor and dash the air does circulate. I do not think the blend door is broken since I know when turning the vent knob works.

Would anyone here have any other idea what it could be?

Thanks for any input.

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post #2 of 11 Old 08-14-2020, 12:06 AM
Uniblurb
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You'll need to supply some more info like year, engine, and whether it's a manual HVAC system or AZC (auto zone control). The automated temp system will have a digital readout, possibly 2 control knobs for dual-control, while the manual system doesn't have any digital readout on the control unit.

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post #3 of 11 Old 08-14-2020, 08:43 AM
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I would say get a thermometer in the vent first thing, It's really hard to tell how cold your air is with just your hand. If you get in a closed up Jeep with the outside temp being 100 degrees outside, the in car temp can be 130-150 degrees. The AC system can only scavenge so much heat before it maxes its capacity, so 70-80 degree temps out of your vents on recirculate wouldn't be unreasonable for a short time. (seems this is what everybody does-you get in a super hot car after it sitting in the sun, and crank up the AC, then put your hand in front of the vent to see if it is cold because your sweating) the best way to judge an AC system efficiency is to measure the temp variation between the air in the cabin, and the air coming out of the vents. A 50 degree variation is pretty good. anything more than that and its getting close to awesome. Many times I roll the windows down for just a minute after I get rolling, to lower the air temp inside the Jeep, which lowers the air temp out of the vents. (remember, if the outside temp is 100 degrees, that is still cooler than 150 degrees inside the Jeep-Your compressor will thank you as well for this). If you get 50 degrees or cooler out the center vents with the fan speed on medium high and the system in recirculate, your doing pretty good. if you get down to 40 degrees, then your done. (remember stuff freezes at 32 degrees).



Dont forget to spray out your condenser/radiator at the car wash once a year to help clear the fins of built up dirt and grime. This will increase the efficiency of the system as well.

'00LMTD-4.7l,242hd,D30,D44A,3.73's,True-trac front,Spartan rear,4" short arm lift,JK'sW/32's
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post #4 of 11 Old 08-14-2020, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
You'll need to supply some more info like year, engine, and whether it's a manual HVAC system or AZC (auto zone control). The automated temp system will have a digital readout, possibly 2 control knobs for dual-control, while the manual system doesn't have any digital readout on the control unit.
Oh for sure .

Its an 04, w/ 4.0L , manual climate control (WJ- Laredo) very basic control (non digital).
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post #5 of 11 Old 08-14-2020, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigrigr View Post
I would say get a thermometer in the vent first thing, It's really hard to tell how cold your air is with just your hand. If you get in a closed up Jeep with the outside temp being 100 degrees outside, the in car temp can be 130-150 degrees. The AC system can only scavenge so much heat before it maxes its capacity, so 70-80 degree temps out of your vents on recirculate wouldn't be unreasonable for a short time. (seems this is what everybody does-you get in a super hot car after it sitting in the sun, and crank up the AC, then put your hand in front of the vent to see if it is cold because your sweating) the best way to judge an AC system efficiency is to measure the temp variation between the air in the cabin, and the air coming out of the vents. A 50 degree variation is pretty good. anything more than that and its getting close to awesome. Many times I roll the windows down for just a minute after I get rolling, to lower the air temp inside the Jeep, which lowers the air temp out of the vents. (remember, if the outside temp is 100 degrees, that is still cooler than 150 degrees inside the Jeep-Your compressor will thank you as well for this). If you get 50 degrees or cooler out the center vents with the fan speed on medium high and the system in recirculate, your doing pretty good. if you get down to 40 degrees, then your done. (remember stuff freezes at 32 degrees).



Dont forget to spray out your condenser/radiator at the car wash once a year to help clear the fins of built up dirt and grime. This will increase the efficiency of the system as well.
I'll get a read out what the temp is blowing @ the vents when AC is on.

Driving the wj or not, does not change IMHO, but I will report back.

Thanks guys!!
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post #6 of 11 Old 08-14-2020, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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Question: with ones whom have proper working AC, how is the climate for the rear passengers?

The reason why I ask is that I feel the air blows decently cool for me (driver) and the front passenger, but in the rear my 5 year old sits in the back in the car seat and she says she cannot feel the air and that its warm back there.

The outside temp here in Texas is about 100-101 degrees.

Thanks again,
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post #7 of 11 Old 08-14-2020, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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If this helps; all the rear windows are tinted except the front driver and passenger windows.
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post #8 of 11 Old 08-14-2020, 01:31 PM
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That specific info helps. You should have flushed your evaporator out along with any other components/lines in case your last compressor had fine metal going through the system. Even blowing them out with low-pressure compressed air to get the old oil out helps. But that may not necessarily be your problem.

When you recharged the system did you add 27oz of 134a and add 4.5oz of PAG 46 oil to the different components? And would assume you drained the compressor while measuring the oil in it. The later year 02-04 WJ's use more 134a but less PAG oil than earlier years. (See below chart)

https://www.techchoiceparts.com/refr...apacities/jeep

Feel the evaporator tubes just outside of the firewall carefully with AC on high and do both tubes connecting to the evaporator feel cold? They should although the input line can be a whole lot cooler than the output tube.

Your manual system uses all vacuum to control all the doors except for the blend door(s) which use an electric actuator/motor. When you're turning your control knob to floor, front vents, and defroster that's not the blend doors but it's the different mode doors in the HVAC box controlling the different air flow.

If your blend door(s) are partially hung up or open towards the heater core they'll make your AC air a whole lot warmer. Below are the tech tips from the blendorstore and do the manual check at the end to see if your actuator is working along with blend door moves freely with actuator removed.

http://blendorstore.com/tech_tips

I'm not advocating cutting open the front of the box but just posting the above link for troubleshooting tips on the blend doors and recirc door.

As far as cooling the rear cabin area there should be tubes running along the side of the console from the front. Not sure if these dump under the rear of the front seats or not. With your high temps often I've seen where turning the front vents on full blast and aiming them towards the back may be the best for cooling the rear off quicker.

With those 100 degree outside temps once you get the cabin to start cooling down a little you should shut the recirc door so you're drawing air from the cabin instead of that super hot outside air. Again, look at those tech tips for checking the recirc door you should be able to see up under the far right dash with glove box down.

Hope some of this helps and below is an AC performance chart where you should really be using a set of AC manifold gauges for checking low/high pressure along with temps. Good luck.
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-14-2020, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
TrueGrit
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Hi Uniblurb - Hey thank you for this information. When the compressor was put in I had my friend that is an mechanic do everything since he had all the gauges / vacuum pump (or something like that). He did use the PAG oil, new gaskets that all came with the new lines and compressor I ordered off Amazon.com.


I ended up calling the mechanic back the next day since the ac didn't have a noticeable difference in cooler prior to replacing the old compressor. He thinks I should look into the blend door. As he and I both are aware that the old foam crap sometimes blows out of my HVAC vents. So I think I will go forward, open the glove box and following through with cutting the front box open as this is much easier than to take off the whole dash board .

I'll end up doing this when it gets cooler, but I do hope that its something going on w/ the BDs and it's just stuck as you mentioned . Huge thanks to you as i'll take the next steps here very shortly

Much appreciated sir!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post

If your blend door(s) are partially hung up or open towards the heater core they'll make your AC air a whole lot warmer. Below are the tech tips from the blendorstore and do the manual check at the end to see if your actuator is working along with blend door moves freely with actuator removed.

http://blendorstore.com/tech_tips

I'm not advocating cutting open the front of the box but just posting the above link for troubleshooting tips on the blend doors and recirc door.

As far as cooling the rear cabin area there should be tubes running along the side of the console from the front. Not sure if these dump under the rear of the front seats or not. With your high temps often I've seen where turning the front vents on full blast and aiming them towards the back may be the best for cooling the rear off quicker.

With those 100 degree outside temps once you get the cabin to start cooling down a little you should shut the recirc door so you're drawing air from the cabin instead of that super hot outside air. Again, look at those tech tips for checking the recirc door you should be able to see up under the far right dash with glove box down.

Hope some of this helps and below is an AC performance chart where you should really be using a set of AC manifold gauges for checking low/high pressure along with temps. Good luck.
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post #10 of 11 Old 08-15-2020, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueGrit View Post
Hi Uniblurb - Hey thank you for this information. When the compressor was put in I had my friend that is an mechanic do everything since he had all the gauges / vacuum pump (or something like that). He did use the PAG oil, new gaskets that all came with the new lines and compressor I ordered off Amazon.com.


I ended up calling the mechanic back the next day since the ac didn't have a noticeable difference in cooler prior to replacing the old compressor. He thinks I should look into the blend door. As he and I both are aware that the old foam crap sometimes blows out of my HVAC vents. So I think I will go forward, open the glove box and following through with cutting the front box open as this is much easier than to take off the whole dash board .

I'll end up doing this when it gets cooler, but I do hope that its something going on w/ the BDs and it's just stuck as you mentioned . Huge thanks to you as i'll take the next steps here very shortly

Much appreciated sir!
You're welcome TrueGrit and glad some of the info helps. I have a real slow leak in my evaporator and know I'm going to eventually take the whole dash/box out to replace it.

But in the meantime I did cut open the front of the box and replaced the blend doors on my 04 AZC system. If you do this do yourself a favor and use a cheap solder iron with the tip pounded flat for cutting through the plastic. A whole lot less mess than having plastic chips flying everywhere from a Dremel or drill/cutting bit. Here's a thread when I did mine.

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310...l#post40247513

I still think it would be a good idea to take off the blend door actuator and check the door travel. Also there's a plastic fitting which can crack which could be the problem. There's only 3 screws which should need to be removed and I used one of the short phillips screwdrivers that have a 90 degree bend on the end for doing the far back screw.

Some of that foam coming out of the vents may be the foam between the box and dash vents which also breaks down. I'll be replacing mine when I have to remove the box/dash and that's the only way to get to it.

Good luck and have a good one!

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post #11 of 11 Old 08-15-2020, 09:36 AM
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if the blend door is broken (or failing), and you need a quick, cheap fix, you can cut off the water to the heater core. put a quarter turn ball valve inline in one of the heater hoses, or just clamp one hose shut. keeping 210 degree water (heat) out of the airbox, goes a long way towards a cooler interior. (a quick, cheap "fix" until you can do it right) you can tint the two front windows, and windshield with some uv blocking "clear" tint. we have dark tint on all of our stuff, and the uv clear on the windshields. we also use a weathertech windshield sunshade on all of our stuff, and use the weathertech (i'm not affiliated with them in any way, they just have a decent product) window vents, to allow the windows to remain partially open, venting heat that would otherwise be stored inside. every little bit helps, in sunny south florida.
* you can see the tints, the window vent covers and windshield shade, in this pic. the clear windshield tint is great, unless you wear polarized glasses. then it can get a little tricky.
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