ABS light - CODE 09 - hydraulic pump circuit failure - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 28 Old 10-15-2021, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
HarveyCat
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Hard braking all the way home on the turnpike. Lots of bumper to bumper then fast. Anyway I later got an ABS light - CODE 09 - hydraulic pump circuit failure. Any thoughts? I cleared it and will wait to see if it returns with slow city driving. I have an 03 WJ GC with 125,000 miles 4.0L engine Laredo....

I read on here that often the ABS control module needs to have solder joints redone. I am good with that. Also I see used ones cheap - is the part number important if I get the right year and a model - again a Laredo from 2003 with a 4.0L....

Any links to what joints often fail - I am good with a soldering iron.

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post #2 of 28 Old 10-15-2021, 06:40 PM
Fzz
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This vid is for a ZJ (I think) but this repair solved my ABS light:

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post #3 of 28 Old 10-15-2021, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
HarveyCat
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Thanks! What code were you getting? Was it hard getting it out? Did you hacksaw it open or dremel it?
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post #4 of 28 Old 10-15-2021, 08:48 PM
ssm82
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I did this re solder repair last year thanks to the info from fzz. I re soldered the large pins coming in that connect to the pump. Also the 4 larger pins in the group of 27 going to the main connector. Had the same code. Problem solved. I used a hack saw to open it up. Works well. FYI - I noticed there are remanufactured units for sale that look like they werent cut open . Makes me think its possible to open the controller using a heat gun, maybe. The hacksaw is pretty safe. Lastly if you get a used controller cheap, it probably already has this problem.
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post #5 of 28 Old 10-16-2021, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
HarveyCat
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Thanks - I am thinking of getting one on ebay cheap and opening and soldering that. That way if I have any issues the jeep can still get back to how it is. Can you see the part number without taking it off? Or can you use any part number as long it is from same year and model? Please see photo attached...
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post #6 of 28 Old 10-16-2021, 01:07 PM
ssm82
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The part number is on the outside of the controller, but there are several versions. I'm not sure how interchangeable they are. Some have different configurations for the connector.
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post #7 of 28 Old 10-16-2021, 01:10 PM
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If you cut open the controller along its seam. You're safe because the chips all sit on the board lower than the seam.
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post #8 of 28 Old 10-16-2021, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
HarveyCat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssm82 View Post
The part number is on the outside of the controller, but there are several versions. I'm not sure how interchangeable they are. Some have different configurations for the connector.
I didn't yet pull out my air box - I did pull off the wire and looked at those tags and the plug. Being lazy and toolless today - can I tell which used controller to order with just this info? Please see the 2 photos attached...
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post #9 of 28 Old 10-16-2021, 02:54 PM
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Are you sure about code description AND that it is a internal CAB fail?

When I see the price of OEM I think aftermarket.
When I see the quality of aftermarket I think OEM.
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post #10 of 28 Old 10-16-2021, 03:53 PM
ssm82
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Sorry I'm unable to see your photos, not set up with the forum. The number of the controller says "controller" above it. Mine is an 8 digit number with three letters at the end. The code 09 means the controller isnt working. From what people say, its usually a solder joint, this seems to be a common problem across many vehicles. But its always possible a component failed on the board, just not likely. There is a utube video of someone changing out his controller on a wj. ( he didnt feel comfortable with soldering,).Once the airbox is off the controller comes off with 4 screws. You can always buy a refurb unit if you dont succeed.
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post #11 of 28 Old 10-16-2021, 08:50 PM
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so i got the pictures you posted. the one of the used controller seems to have a label stuck on it ,not original, hiding the actual model number. your other picture has the info off the abs pump. if you pull off your airbox you'll see the model number on your controller. its where that label is on the picture you have of the used unit. you dont have much chance of matching your unit to another without seeing the model number on each unit.
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post #12 of 28 Old 10-17-2021, 02:52 AM
Delta0
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While you are in there I suggest you look around for other dry joints, and re-solder them.

Condensers / capacitors are a another favourite to fail.

Many pictures to guide you here: -

https://www.google.com/search?q=Dry+...h=338&dpr=1.93

https://www.google.com/search?q=bad+...ih=338&biw=832
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post #13 of 28 Old 10-17-2021, 05:56 AM
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As has been said above, if you got another used control unit there's no guarantee that won't have the same fault - my WJ came with the fault light on when i bought her, and someone had already fitted a used unit (along with all new abs sensors to try and get rid of the fault light...) - the unit fitted obviously had knackered joints but I don't think they changed the spec of the abs ecu between 99 & 05 - hopefully someone can confirm.
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post #14 of 28 Old 10-17-2021, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
HarveyCat
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Is it safe to drive without the ABS also will it drive while I have this Control Module out and fixing it? I work on a city street so not as easy as having a driveway or garage. I am also not sure what bit / socket is needed to remove the control module - a youtuber said that it is the rare E5 female torque bit - but it looks more like a female allen wrench type to me? Any help would be great!! Home Depot does not carry the E5 female torque but Amazon does. Please see my photos taken today.
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post #15 of 28 Old 10-17-2021, 09:53 AM
ssm82
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If your abs light is on. You already are driving without abs. But it wont pass inspection. My guess is you can drive with the controller off since it's not working anyways, but i am not sure about that maybe someone can answer that
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