4.7 valve seals - just replace or get the heads done? - JeepForum.com
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  • 1 Post By tsetsaf
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 10-16-2021, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
tsetsaf
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4.7 valve seals - just replace or get the heads done?

New to me Overland with the 4.7 HO. Runs and idles smooth. Guy that sold it to me said "it has a little puff of smoke at stop lights". His definition of little and mine are totally different.

163k on the clock. Do you think doing the valve seals only makes sense. Or should I pull the whole head?

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post #2 of 15 Old 10-16-2021, 11:15 PM
sdg3205
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4.7 valve seals - just replace or get the heads done?

Someone else can chime in, but a couple at the back are pretty hard to get to with the heads on. Iíve never tried, I did them on the bench.
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post #3 of 15 Old 10-17-2021, 10:55 AM
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Get them done, I don't see getting to number 8 or 7 with the heads on the engine with a spring compressor.

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post #4 of 15 Old 10-17-2021, 01:15 PM
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Do the timing chain guides, the water pump, the valve cover gaskets, the heads, and the valve seals all at the same time.

It's not going to be super cheap but it'll last another 200K if you do it.
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post #5 of 15 Old 10-17-2021, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
tsetsaf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigMBAx View Post
Do the timing chain guides, the water pump, the valve cover gaskets, the heads, and the valve seals all at the same time.

It's not going to be super cheap but it'll last another 200K if you do it.
Thanks for the feedback
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post #6 of 15 Old 10-30-2021, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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Future me responding to past me... RUN!! These other folks are setting you up for hours of swearing, grime and wtf was Chrysler thinking. Just sell the GC for a loss and try again!!

Whoever designed the placement of the exhaust collector bolts is a sadist!
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post #7 of 15 Old 10-30-2021, 05:42 AM
leadsled jeep
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I suspect my seals are going as well. Nice big blue puff at times at startup if she’s sat for a brief period (minute or two) since I shut her down. Although previously winter oil consumption would drop WAY down compared to summer. TBD this year.

237k miles on mine. I am starting to price a rebuild at the local shop that built my hotrod stang motor 10 yrs ago. Like Craig mentioned there is much to replace while it’s apart. I’ll go all the way on mine taking it all apart for full refresh.

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post #8 of 15 Old 10-30-2021, 08:31 AM
Flyinv_323
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If the rest of the motor runs fine, I would keep the heads on, pull the valve covers, and replace all the valve stem seals you can access with something like a Lisle valve spring remover that doesn't need the head removed. You're a good shot of either significantly reducing leakage or fixing the problem completely. If you're unlucky the ones you couldn't access will be the ones responsible, but at least you aren't heavily invested at that point.

Pulling the head off opens up a whole can of "while you're in there", and you always run the risk of having a new head gasket not seal right or introducing debris when you clean the mating surface.

Hopefully it'll buy you time til the engine needs more major work, and you can rebuild the motor properly then.
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post #9 of 15 Old 10-30-2021, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
tsetsaf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyinv_323 View Post
If the rest of the motor runs fine, I would keep the heads on, pull the valve covers, and replace all the valve stem seals you can access with something like a Lisle valve spring remover that doesn't need the head removed. You're a good shot of either significantly reducing leakage or fixing the problem completely. If you're unlucky the ones you couldn't access will be the ones responsible, but at least you aren't heavily invested at that point.

Pulling the head off opens up a whole can of "while you're in there", and you always run the risk of having a new head gasket not seal right or introducing debris when you clean the mating surface.

Hopefully it'll buy you time til the engine needs more major work, and you can rebuild the motor properly then.
Got one head off last night. After sleeping on it I have decided to replace the entire motor.

Why? Because my time is way more valuable. Pay a bit more for a long block, drop it in, and there I go.
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post #10 of 15 Old 10-30-2021, 11:01 AM
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Good call. Once you add up all those nickel and dime expenses it’s a hefty price and financially makes sense to spend a little more and get it ALL done.

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post #11 of 15 Old 10-30-2021, 12:10 PM
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FWIW I think you are making the right decision. Last year I decided to replace my seals with the heads on ... #8 was the only one that really gave me a hard time BUT less than a year later she just puked out a valve seat. Could have saved myself all the work and expense by just ignoring what little blue smoke there was and running it as-is. Now I am shopping for a reman as well. Let us know how your long block shopping goes.


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post #12 of 15 Old 10-30-2021, 01:19 PM
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I called Jasper and they do NOT have any 4.7s around right now…. They do engines in batches apparently. But pricing is $4800 ish without the $400 accessory misc kit (other stuff you probably better do like water pumps etc. With warrantee etc of course.

Tad rich for my blood so I’m waiting on that other local hot rod machine shop quote. I’ll post that when I get it for comparison and your info. I’m guessing closer to $2500 but I pulled that number outta my hind end.

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post #13 of 15 Old 10-30-2021, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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I was looking at a few from smaller shops in the $3k range. Junkyards have a 102k one for $1600. Jasper has always been expensive.
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post #14 of 15 Old 10-30-2021, 10:32 PM
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Try S&J engines.
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post #15 of 15 Old 11-01-2021, 02:28 PM
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Jasper is CrAAAzy high. Warrantees are nice but if it’s machines right and lubed right…. Who has problems??

For a WEAK and IGNORANT sheople, SERF-dom is a Reward, not a Curse. W1CCW
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