242hd swap in 04 overland - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 04-12-2019, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
97jeepxj1
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242hd swap in 04 overland

I believe i saw a 1/2 price day coming up at my local pick n pull and I was thinking about doing this swap since my current case doesn't seem to act right in regular all time 4wd. It is and 04 overland edition with quadra drive. My understanding to do this is that I need to find a v8 donor as it should have the 242hd i am looking for, and that I will also need the rear drive shaft and shift tower and thats it? Everything should bolt right up no need to change trans output or anything? I do not have the rzeppa front shaft on my jeep.

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post #2 of 13 Old 04-12-2019, 09:05 AM
LuthWJ77
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search the forum there's a ton of good info already posted about this including at least one really good write up with pictures.
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post #3 of 13 Old 04-12-2019, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
97jeepxj1
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I did search and I found some pretty good write-ups on it I just wanted to make sure I was understanding it correctly
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post #4 of 13 Old 04-12-2019, 01:10 PM
LuthWJ77
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yeah you got it the HD only came in a V8 so will bolt right up and grab the rear DS. Shifter is not a need it works with the one that's there. Some guys use stickers and stuff to label shift locations as an alternative. I personally didn't bother with the shifter part.

Now with that said, the HD is supposedly not easy to find so if you wanted to do a regular 242 you'd need to swap input shafts from the 247 into the 242. Little more involved but good videos online to do that too.
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post #5 of 13 Old 04-12-2019, 02:25 PM
Jeeples
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Yep, at a minimum you will need the 242HD t-case (including the shift cable bracket that's mounted to the t-case) and the rear driveshaft.



The entire shifter assembly is not 100% necessary as the t-case mode detents are built into the t-case and not the shifter assembly. The only functionality you lose by keeping your original shifter assembly is the neutral lockout that requires you to push the shifter down to move into neutral and then 4Low.


You can just replace the shifter bezel/trim piece that has each t-case mode selection on it with the bezel out of any 242 equipped WJ (HD or Non-HD).


The only optional piece that most folks don't grab is the mode switch wiring harness. This illuminates the '4x4' icon on the dash when any of the 4WD modes are selected.

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- Some more stuff


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post #6 of 13 Old 04-12-2019, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone have any tips on pulling a tcase by yourself in a self service yard that doesn't allow any jacks? There's 4 or 5 02s and like 2 03s I'm going to go at least check tomorrow. Supposed to rain sat and sun so I may wait till Monday to grab what I need which messes up the 1/2 prce real but still have enough extra cash to swing the case and driveshaft and even the shift tower if I want.

On the wiring to get the dash light to work how do I go about that.? Is there already an unused provision for me to hook up to with my 04?
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post #7 of 13 Old 04-13-2019, 05:35 AM
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I've pulled either a 242 or 247 about 6 times. It can be done while laying on your back without a jack but it depends on how much weight you're comfortable man-handling because it weighs about 70 to 80 lbs. While laying below it, remove the nuts from the housing. I believe there are six of them and they are 14 or 15mm, I don't remember which. The top one is not so easy to reach but it's possible.

A flex head ratchet, a deep or medium deep socket, wobble joint and extensions will be helpful, as will stubby and ratcheting wrenches. The only other nut that is trouble is the one obscured by the big lower transmission bracket. You may find a deep socket is too deep here for clearance yet you need a deep socket due to the stud. I believe that one is best attacked with an offset wrench. You can't get much turn so be prepared to be patient with it. Alternatively, you can support the transmission and remove the bracket but that's a lot of effort. I think I did it that way once or twice.

Once the housing nuts are off, the transfer case should easily slide off the mounting studs toward the rear of the vehicle. You can grab it bench press style and carefully slide it off onto your chest and then roll it off your chest onto the ground. Easy does it or you'll bruise a rib (or worse). You may get a scratch or a bruise though anyway. This is one if the more physical WJ DIY procedures I've done. It isn't pleasant but it's doable.

As far as the wiring, there is a sensor that plugs into the top of the 242 with a pigtail wire harness plugged into that. On the other end, the pigtail harness plugs into the main harness above the transmission roughly near the middle on the passenger side. It may be obscured by tape and wire loom. As I understand it, all WJs should have that plug receptacle for the optional harness. It won't give you anything on the WJ dash but a "Part Time" light. I hooked it up and it worked OK for a while but then it became flaky and the light would come on and go off randomly. I think the sensor is faulty. Rather than troubleshooting it further, I ended up just cutting the wire.

1999 WJ Limited 4.7/NV247
2001 WJ Laredo 4.7/NP242
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post #8 of 13 Old 04-13-2019, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Looks like I have three choices out there two of them have the motors pulled already so I was thinking if I get some heavy duty ratchet straps I'll just put them across the bottom from frame rail the frame rail and lower the transmission and transfer case all at once that way and break it apart on the ground
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post #9 of 13 Old 04-13-2019, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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I snapped pictures of all of them if you guys want to see them but they all had the metal rear output shaft for the slip yoke the only one that's questionable was one of the ones that's missing a motor and that's just because it doesn't have the V8 emblem on the rear and the exhaust is gone but if I remember right that one was also wrecked in the front end so it wouldn't surprise me if it flew off
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post #10 of 13 Old 04-14-2019, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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i think i figured this one out but thought i would see if anyone can confirm it for me. My stock driveshaft has brand ujoints in it. I wanted to change them to the donor but wanted to make sure they are right size. I checked the autoparts store and they show its the same but they have been known to be wrong before
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post #11 of 13 Old 04-15-2019, 10:04 AM
Jeeples
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The 242HD uses a larger 1330 series U-joint at the t-case side.

The rest of the U-joints on the front and rear driveshafts are the same 1310 series typically found on WJ (and other Jeep) driveshafts.

You can get Spicer U-joints for both driveshafts (including the centering yoke) for right around $100 all day long online. I wouldn't bother swapping U-joints from your old driveshafts.

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- Some more stuff


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post #12 of 13 Old 04-16-2019, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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Yep learned the case side joint is bigger the hard way. Only reason I wanted to reuse my joints was because they were brand new spicers that put in 3000 miles ago. Got it all in today and tested seems to work alright. Pulled it from an 03 with 125k ish miles on it. Oil change sticker on the donor said it was due for a change December 2018 or 125xxx miles. Did notice I may need to adjust the cable a smidge and that it will hang for a while in 4wd aftervi shift it back to 2wd. This was after driving it in tight figure 8s and circle in 4 full time. Also think I new a bit more friction modifier in the rear. Had to redo the rear wheel bearing and seal because part of the new bearing broke so it was a bit low on oil in the rear end and I just topped it off with the oil.
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post #13 of 13 Old 04-16-2019, 05:45 AM
torchd
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I did the 242HD swap. Does anyone need a NV247 TC that is in good condition? I've got the shifter for it as well.

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
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