2002 Bella Blue, WJ Build Thread - JeepForum.com
 19Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 55 Old 01-28-2018, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
GmanWJ
Registered User
 
GmanWJ's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 353
Garage
Wj 2002 Bella Blue, WJ REPAIR Thread

I'm new to the forum, but it seems like build threads are a thing here, so here's mine. Meet Bella.


>>Factory Build Info

Build Table of Contents:
  1. Stereo Upgrade
  2. Addco Rear Sway Bar
  3. Rear Upper Control Arm
  4. Rear Lower Control Arm
  5. Fuel Injector Connectors
  6. Left Valve Cover Gasket
  7. Right Valve Cover Gasket
  8. Front Control Arm Replacement
  9. Ball Joint Replacement
  10. Rear Axle Bearing Replacement
  11. Driver Door Wire Repair



I have had her since July 2002, new to me and the only new vehicle I have ever owned.


Aside from the typical routine maintenance (fluids, filters, tires, shocks, brakes, ...), some of the things I have had to fix over the years. Note: at first I had all of my service done at the dealer or quick lube shops, but after a few bad things happened I started doing it all myself. Well mostly myself. Some jobs I still take to a shop if I feel like it's over my head or I just want somebody else to do it instead.
  • Rear axle "failure" and rebuild at 30k. Dealer stated the diff was empty. Odd, since they did all the service for me.
  • Rear axle "failure" and rebuild at 65k. AGAIN!!
  • Right rear TPM sensor replacement. Jiffy Lube smashed the valve stem for me.
  • Passenger side wiper arm replacement. Jiffy Lube strikes again.
  • Power steering hose, I think this was a factory recall?
  • Evap cannister hose leak. Was throwing a trouble code.
  • O2 sensor replacement. Threw a code so I was going to replace them all until I saw how expensive they are, so just did the one.
  • Climate control panel replacement. The A/C would not blow cold air and really had me stumped. Replaced the panel out of desperation and it worked.
  • EVIC overhead module replacement. Display just died. Got one without TPMS capability because I was running BFG E range tires that would constantly trigger high pressure alarms on the highway.
  • Parking brake cable replacement, TWICE. What is this about?
  • Window regulators on front driver & passenger doors
  • Hood, liftgate, & liftglass struts several times
  • Driver door panel replacement due to cracks in the arm rest. Done this twice too and need to do it again.
  • Passenger side power mirror, I suspect a parking lot incident.
  • Thermostat leak, replaced
  • Water pump leak, replaced
  • Radiator leak, replaced (& hoses)
  • Starter motor replacement, solenoid was dying and threatened to strand me.
  • Engine rear main seal replacement
  • Rear axle seals, bearings, pinion seal


Current list of things that need to be fixed:
  • Driver door panel (arm rest)
  • Driver heated seat
  • Heated seat switches, some lights don't work (but the switch does!)
  • Headliner starting to peel
  • Clunks and creaks in the rear end
  • Oil seep from valve covers (completed 03/26/2018)


Right now I am focusing on the rear end suspension, which is about to snowball into a full suspension rebuild.


Here we are exploring the Lost Coast some years ago. We found a remote deserted beach with a fire ring and stopped for lunch.


Smooremin and 703JRB like this.

Last edited by GmanWJ; 02-27-2018 at 03:25 PM. Reason: Reorg build thread
GmanWJ is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 55 Old 01-30-2018, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
GmanWJ
Registered User
 
GmanWJ's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 353
Garage
I bought it in July 2002 for $33k. After down payment, the monthly was an even $500 at 0% financing, 7 year/70k mile warranty. It's about as loaded as you can get for a Laredo. I went through all the packages and thought that the Limited upgrade was not worth the extra $5k price tag because all you really got was color-matched cladding and memory seats, maybe a dual zone climate control? I had previously leased a '99 Laredo with a Quadra-Drive, but there were some odd things about how that drive train behaved that I really did not like so I went with the Selec-Trac in '02.

Looked up my build sheet at https://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/jeep/ >> Equipment Listing.

Rearranged some of the items to my liking, but here is what it told me in all its glory:

Equipment Listing
Vehicle Description 2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LAREDO 4X4 SPORT UTILITY 4-DR


Code:
STANDARD EQUIPMENT
Monotone Paint
136 Amp Alternator
625 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
Anti-Lock 4-Wheel Disc Brakes
Low Back Bucket Seats
Highline Door Trim Panel
Rear 60/40 Folding Seat
Child Seat Anchor System-LATCH Ready
Next Gen Multistage Front Air Bags**
Floor Carpet
Cargo Compartment Carpet
Cargo Tie Down Loops
Front & Rear Floor Mats
Cargo Trim Panel w/Storage Net
Driver Foot Rest
Cargo Compartment Cover
Passenger Assist Handles
Full Length Floor Console
All 5-Speed Automatic Transmissions
Lock-Up Torque Converter
Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD System
Dana 30/186MM Front Axle
Tinted Windshield Glass
Front Door Tinted Glass
Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass
Flipper Liftgate Glass
Rear Window Defroster
Sentry Key Theft Deterrent System
Air Conditioning
Hood Insulation
Deluxe Insulation Group
Route 48 - UP, Mira Loma, CA
DO NOT USE - See JP, KA classes
120 MPH Primary Speedometer
Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
Rear Window Wiper/Washer
Dual Note Electric Horns
Glove Box
12V Auxiliary Power Outlet
Power Accessory Delay
Power Locks
Power Windows, Driver One-Touch
EXTERIOR COMPONENT COLOR
EXTERIOR COMPONENT COLOR
Illuminated Entry
Warning Chime
Courtesy Lamps
Glove Box Lamp
Ash Tray Lamp
Rear Courtesy/Reading Lamps
Cargo Compartment Lamp
Halogen Headlamps
CHMSL Lamp
Bright Grille
Black Windshield Moldings
Grand Cherokee Badge
Jeep Badge
Side Roof Rails
4X4 Badge
20.5 Gallon Fuel Tank
Speed Control
Patriot Blue Pearl Coat
Fixed Long Mast Antenna
Power Steering
Tilt Steering Column
Inside Mounted Spare Tire
16X7.0 Lux Alum Silver Wheels
Protective Coating and Remover
Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications
U.S. Dealer Retail
Zone 71-Los Angeles
JS/5712 Vehicle Family
WJ-Vehicle Family
Four Wheel Drive (4WD)/(4X4)
Left Hand Drive (LHD)
Vehicle Order Tracking
U.S. Specifications Label
California Ship to State Code
California Sold to State Code
Code:
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT
4.7L V8 Power Tech Engine
5-Spd Automatic 545RFE Transmission
3.73 Rear Axle Ratio
Dana 44/226MM Rear Axle
Vari-Lok Progressive Rear Axle
Up Country Suspension Group(97-2-26)
Heavy Duty Suspension w/Gas Shocks
Skid Plate Group
Fuel Tank Skid Plate Shield
Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
Front Suspension Skid Plate
Tow Hooks
Trailer Tow Group IV
Class IV Receiver Hitch
7 Pin Wiring Harness
7 to 4 Pin Wiring Adaptor
Leather Trimmed Bucket Seats
Dark Slate Gray
Cold Weather Group
Luxury Group
Radio-CD/Cass/10 Disc/Infinity Spkrs
Mutually Exclusive Package
Supplemental Side Air Bags
Supp. Side Curtain Frt/Rr Air Bags
Covered Cargo Storage
Mini Overhead Console
Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors
Rear View Auto Dim Mirror
Power Memory Mirrors, Fold-Away
Remote Keyless Entry
12V Rear Auxiliary Power Outlet
Power 6-Way, Heated Seats
Vehicle Information Center
Traveler/Mini Trip Computer
Automatic Headlamps
Fog Lamps
Security Alarm
Front License Plate Bracket
V-8 Badge
50 State Emissions
Low Emission Vehicle (LEV)
Power Steering Cooler
Hydraulic Engine Cooling
Patriot Blue Pearl Coat
All Radio Equipped Vehicles
AM/FM Cass/CD Radio w/Changer Ctrl
Infinity Speakers
10-Disc Remote CD Changer
Steering Wheel Mounted Audio Ctrls
Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
Full Size Spare Tire w/Matching Whl
P245/70R16 OWL All Terrain Tires
Goodyear Brand Tires
All Aluminum Wheels
Universal Garage Door Opener
Tire Pressure Monitoring Display
Manuf Statement of Origin
7 Additional Gallons of Gas
Spring - Left Front
Spring - Left Rear
Spring - Right Front
Spring - Right Rear
GVW Rating - 5500#
FAM: WJ TRACKING: 11031J01 MY:2002
FAM: WJ TRACKING: 10430J07 MY:2002
Customer Preferred Package 2TF
Customer Preferred Package 28F
V-8 Bonus Discount
Customer Preferred Discount
Schedule D To C Tracking
GmanWJ is offline  
post #3 of 55 Old 01-30-2018, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
GmanWJ
Registered User
 
GmanWJ's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 353
Garage
Yesterday the Miller Tool 8278 arrived in the mail so I can more easily remove my rear upper ball joint. Picked it up for $40 from eBay. I'll take that, TYVM.

Very much considering the IRO adjustable upper control arm: https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...arm-short.html


If I install the 3" lift, can I run OEM LCAs or do I need to replace them? Think I will contact IRO and find out.
GmanWJ is offline  
 
post #4 of 55 Old 01-30-2018, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
GmanWJ
Registered User
 
GmanWJ's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 353
Garage
Stereo System Upgrade, 2002 WJ

Back in 2006 I did a complete stereo replacement. I actually tried a few different configurations, but this was the last one. Still running the system today, although I did replace the tweets in the dash a year or so ago when the driver side quit on me. Thought I would share it with you.

PARTS LIST
Alpine CDA-9833 CD/MP3/WMA Receiver
Alpine CHA-S634 6-disc Ai-NET CD/MP3 Changer
Rockford Fosgate Power 451S 115W x 2 Car Amplifier (2)
Rockford Fosgate Power 501bd 300W x 1 Car Amplifier
JL Audio Stealthbox
Infinity Perfect 10.1 10" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer (2)
Infinity Perfect 6.1 6-1/2" Component System (2)
Infinity Kappa 10.11t .75" Tweeter (2) -- replace "Perfects"
Scosche SA-69 Speaker Mounting Brackets (2)
Scosche SAC-656 Multipurpose Speaker Mounting Brackets (2)
Lightning Audio LSD10DT-03 Strike 1-farad Cap. w/Distribution Top
Lightning Audio LS10-03 Strike 1.0-farad Capacitor
Rockford Fosgate RP7442 Distribution Block for a Capacitor, Platinum Plated
Rockford Fosgate RP7051 4-Way AGU Fused Platinum Plated Distribution Bloc
Rockford Fosgate Ground Block (3)
StreetWires ZN335 Zero Noise 3 11.5-ft. Stereo Patch Cable (3)
StreetWires ST124 12-ga. Spade Connectors 2 Pair (20)
StreetWires UF4 4 ga. Translucent Blue Power Cable (20 ft)
StreetWires UF4 4 ga. Translucent Clear Power Cable (10 ft)
StreetWires UF8 8 ga. Translucent Blue Power Cable (20 ft)
StreetWires UF8 8 ga. Translucent Clear Power Cable (10 ft)
StreetWires UF18 18 ga. Blue Remote Turn-on Lead (10 ft)
StreetWires
UC12 per foot 12 gauge Blue/Silver Speaker Wire (30 ft)
StreetWires UC14 per foot 14 gauge Blue/Silver Speaker Wire (50 ft)
StreetWires BTSTC Battery Side-to-Top Mount Converter Pair
Chrysler/Dodge Wire Harness re for Chry/Dodg/Jeep 02-08
Chrysler Antenna Adapter Motor Motorola M to OEM antenna F
Chrysler Concorde/Dodge LHS 19 1998-up, E
etc.


Head unit replacement. Ran all new RCA patch cables. All wire patches were soldered and protected with heat shrink tubing. Wire loom where necessary to reduce clutter. Here she is with her brains exposed:

And with her new Alpine CDA-9833 brains:


All four speaker locations got a new set of Infinity Perfect 6.1 components. Dash tweeters were replaced with the new components, rear tweeters were installed in the C-pillars. Probably sucks if you are riding back there, but that's not where I ride
Factory tweets vs. Infinity replacements

Simple installation brackets I made, they don't have to be fancy

Here they are at home

C-pillar tweeters


At the time, I had already replaced the factory fronts with 3-way JBL 6x9:

Comparing the JBL with the Infinty:

Replacing with the Infinitys requires an adapter plate:

Here they are all put to bed:


Put all the crossovers under the rear seats, nice that there is room for them there


Replaced the disc changer and installed a speaker cup for the removable subwoofer box



Installed all the amps in the spare tire enclosure. Fans are triggered by a temperature sensor; when the temp exceeds 90, the fans come on. The subwoofer amp (Rockford Fosgate Power 501bd) is 2-ohm stable and the two subs are wired in parallel. When I take out the sub in the box, the load on the amp is 4-ohm. When I run both of them, the load is 2-ohm. The other two amps are Fosgate Power 451S; each runs a pair of Infinity Perfect 6.1 components. I later disconnected the Lightning Audio capacitors because I thought they were more of a drain than they were worth.

Last edited by GmanWJ; 02-27-2018 at 04:14 PM. Reason: build thread reorg, add parts list
GmanWJ is offline  
post #5 of 55 Old 02-05-2018, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
GmanWJ
Registered User
 
GmanWJ's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 353
Garage
REAR SWAY BAR UPGRADE

Friday afternoon was Addco sway bar upgrade day. Added the Energy suspension greasable bushings. Also replaced the links with new Moogs since they were inexpensive. Easy enough job, even for a slow hobbyist like me.

PARTS LIST
Addco 684 1" sway bar
Energy Suspension 9.5161R 1" greasable sway bar bushings
Moog K3202 stabilizer bar link (2)

Side-by-side comparison of the stock bar versus the Addco bar.


Left side, post-install


underneath


right side


The difference in ride quality was immediately obvious, even with my sloppy, worn-out upper control arm still in place. Next up: R&R the upper control arm.
Mjmmkerr likes this.

Last edited by GmanWJ; 02-27-2018 at 11:14 AM. Reason: added parts list
GmanWJ is offline  
post #6 of 55 Old 02-05-2018, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
GmanWJ
Registered User
 
GmanWJ's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 353
Garage
Rear Upper Control Arm Refurb, 2002 WJ

How long does it take to remove a WJ upper control arm and replace the bushings and ball joint? Should not take long, right? Well it took me all day Saturday and Sunday. Word of advice when you decide to do this: do not bother with getting a Miller 8278 ball joint removal tool, just go right for the ball joint mounting bolts. And eat your can of spinach for breakfast, you are going to need the Popeye power.

PARTS LIST
Mopar 52088808AB rear upper ball joint
Mopar
52088220 rear upper control arm bushing
First, I did my homework by watching this guy's video:
. Really good tip on how to align the UCA with the ball joint: use a bottle jack to prop up the pinion side of the axle housing, and drop/raise the jack holding up the axle until you get the angle just right to drop the UCA right over the stud without binding. I would have been screaming if I did not already know this.

Here is the bushing on the left (driver) side with the suspension under load, before I started. Does it look like the bushing is where it is supposed to be? It looks to me like it has pulled out a little. This bushing was not really concerning me, but wondered what you guys thought.


After removing the nut from the ball joint, I installed my fancy Miller 8278 that I scored for $40 off eBay. Oh boy, this is going to be a breeze with this tool!


Well, maybe not. Things were getting really tight in there. Wrenching that thing tighter does not seem to be doing any good. I was starting to worry that something was about to break. FSM states that it "MAY" be necessary to hit the UCA with a hammer to dislodge the ball joint. It states this in big bold letters. So I hit it several times with a 3-pound sledge. Nothing happened. So I put a few more turns on the Miller and heard a crackling sound. Took a peek ... that can't be good.


Nope, not good. Anybody want a cheap Miller 8278? Glad I did not buy it new.



Plan B: remove the ball joint bolts. This was an extreme bear. Bring a long cheater bar and a lot of perseverance. When that last bolt breaks loose, it's a wonderful feeling. Followed the steps in the linked video above, it was not too bad. Here you can see the broken boot on my ball joint, after I removed the UCA. Note: it was broken before I removed it!


New Mopar ball joint. That is how it was advertised on Amazon anyway. I expected it to be a lot stiffer, but I could move it fairly easily. Oh well, it was definitely in better shape than the one I removed.


Right side bushing. This was the one I was worried about. It was trashed, as expected.


Left side bushing was ok.


Replaced both bushings using a shop press and ball joint removal kit. Here's the UCA cleaned up and ready for reinstall.


No pics, post-install. It took me hours and hours to do this and got tired of taking pictures. Put everything back together and dropped it on the ground to load the suspension, then did final torque. The good news: the suspension feels better than it has in years! The bad news: the creaking and clunking has not gone away completely. I suspect the right upper shock isolator.

Last edited by GmanWJ; 02-27-2018 at 11:55 AM. Reason: added parts list
GmanWJ is offline  
post #7 of 55 Old 02-05-2018, 01:08 PM
blueseasons1
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 487
WOW! I am impressed. I have never met anybody who bought a WJ brand new and kept it for so long. I have a million questions. With all the stories about sludge buildup, dropped seats and bad rockers.How is the V8 holding up? Do you still have the original heater core and evap cooler? Any blend door issues? Leaks on the passenger side? These are all the things we read about here and really hard to put in perspective since very, very few of us have owned them from the beginning. You are in a unique position. Oh. And whats with the pile or rocks? Beautiful country.
blueseasons1 is offline  
post #8 of 55 Old 02-05-2018, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
GmanWJ
Registered User
 
GmanWJ's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 353
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by blueseasons1 View Post
WOW! I am impressed. I have never met anybody who bought a WJ brand new and kept it for so long. I have a million questions. With all the stories about sludge buildup, dropped seats and bad rockers.How is the V8 holding up? Do you still have the original heater core and evap cooler? Any blend door issues? Leaks on the passenger side? These are all the things we read about here and really hard to put in perspective since very, very few of us have owned them from the beginning. You are in a unique position. Oh. And whats with the pile or rocks? Beautiful country.
Hey now, don't put a jinx on me. I actually know nothing about those issues (sludge, rockers, seats) and hope I never do. I have always run Mobil 1 and change it religiously. Motor still purrs like a kitten and has plenty of power. However, it is seeping oil from the valve covers so is due for a gasket replacement, which I tried to do once already but stalled when the injector connector tabs started breaking on me. That job is on hold until the replacement connectors get here. Once I get the covers off, I will be able to report on the state of the innards. Honestly, I am curious to see what is under there myself. I hope I don't find any sludge!

Heater core and evap cooler are original. No interior leaks and I hope it stays that way. I did have intermittent A/C issues with the thing for years and did not know what the problem was until I tried changing out the climate control panel. I noticed that sometimes if I beat on the knobs out of frustration (emergency repair procedure #1) that sometimes the A/C would start working. Changing the panel has fixed the problem ... except now I have mixed interior finishes with a faux-wood center panel from a Limited and my original silver Laredo dash trim. Oh well.

Blend door has started making a banging sound recently when I pump the heat all the way to hot. I figure a piece of foam has disintegrated in there due to age. Other than that, no problems.

That pile of rocks was somebody's idea of a fire ring. That beach was far, far away from the beaten path and errant flames in that forest are a very bad idea, so somebody built that to keep their flames contained. Probably better to just avoid fire, really. I had a sandwich
GmanWJ is offline  
post #9 of 55 Old 02-05-2018, 02:12 PM
blueseasons1
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 487
I had to look close. At first, I thought it was a pile of firewood. I have a 2000 and I really like it. I have no idea about any of the PO's so I inherited a lot of uncertainty and problems. I don't recall what I was thinking back when WJ's were new other than I couldn't afford a new car at all. I see you're in Santa Maria. I am up the coast a bit in Santa Cruz. Welcome to the Forum. Its a great place for information and encouragement when you need it and at times a little paranoia. It looks to me like you have great skills and a lot of experience to share. I see a lot of the V8's on the road up here which gives me hope that not all of them are prone to dropping valve seats, which for me would be a deal breaker. Did yours come with Teves calipers? If so, are they still working or did you swap them out for Akebono?
blueseasons1 is offline  
post #10 of 55 Old 02-05-2018, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
GmanWJ
Registered User
 
GmanWJ's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 353
Garage
Mine came with the Akebono calipers. I guess it was fortunate that I bought at the end of the model year, because they had already made the switch.
GmanWJ is offline  
post #11 of 55 Old 02-05-2018, 07:52 PM
4xTroy
Senior Member
 
4xTroy's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Pulaski
Posts: 728
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmanich View Post
Yesterday the Miller Tool 8278 arrived in the mail so I can more easily remove my rear upper ball joint. Picked it up for $40 from eBay. I'll take that, TYVM.

Very much considering the IRO adjustable upper control arm: https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...arm-short.html


If I install the 3" lift, can I run OEM LCAs or do I need to replace them? Think I will contact IRO and find out.
100% stock control arms here with the OME HD lift (3+). When you're ready to pull the trigger on the lift, be sure to talk to @Kolak . He's an IRO dealer, but will help you figure out the best way to go. OME HD springs are stiffer and may be the way to go if you have bumper dreams in your future.

I'm debating the IRO UCA... my bushings are getting pretty worn. Not as bad as yours, but close. It doesn't look like a fun job either way, but neither did an engine swap, and I got through that just fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueseasons1 View Post
WOW! I am impressed. I have never met anybody who bought a WJ brand new and kept it for so long. I have a million questions. With all the stories about sludge buildup, dropped seats and bad rockers.How is the V8 holding up? Do you still have the original heater core and evap cooler? Any blend door issues? Leaks on the passenger side? These are all the things we read about here and really hard to put in perspective since very, very few of us have owned them from the beginning. You are in a unique position. Oh. And whats with the pile or rocks? Beautiful country.
I bought mine in November '02. Not quite as loaded as this one, but pretty close. I didn't get the vari-lok axles or premium electronics. It's funny though, I put the same head unit, bypassed the infinity amp for the stock speakers, and added a 2nd amp to drive a pair of 10's.

There aren't many of us original owners around, but there are a few of us.
GmanWJ likes this.

Jeep Owner for 17 years; Jeep Guy for 4!
'02 Laredo 4.7L / OME HD & Billies / 255/70R17 GG AT2

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
4xTroy is offline  
post #12 of 55 Old 02-13-2018, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
GmanWJ
Registered User
 
GmanWJ's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 353
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmanich View Post
Mine came with the Akebono calipers. I guess it was fortunate that I bought at the end of the model year, because they had already made the switch.
Correction: It has been a while since I did my brakes. I took another look last weekend. They are Teves.
GmanWJ is offline  
post #13 of 55 Old 02-13-2018, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
GmanWJ
Registered User
 
GmanWJ's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 353
Garage
Rear Lower Control Arm Replacement, 2002 WJ

Last weekend I replaced the rear LCAs. I bought a pair of new Mopar LCAs with bushings from Rock Auto, just to make it easy on myself. Four nuts/bolts, easy-peasy, what could go wrong?

Edit: added a video! https://youtu.be/lxmbxAlN2MI

PARTS LIST
Mopar 52088355AD rear lower control arms with bushings (2)
So step 1 is to jack it up and support, basic. Step 2, remove wheels, easy. Step 3, support rear axle, no problem. Step 4, remove bolts from axle side of LCA. Problem! I don't know if the guys on the assembly line were having a bad day when they built my WJ, or if this is the way they are supposed to be built. I kind of suspect the former. But they put the nut on the inboard side of the LCA, so the bolt has to be removed by pulling it outboard, toward the wheel. The problem here is that there is a splash shield to keep debris out of the brakes, and there was not enough room to remove the bolt:


Notice that there is ZERO clearance here. The splash shield is held on how exactly? Looks like rivets. I had to remove the brake calipers and rotors, then bend the thin splash shield out of the way to get the bolt out. I hate to molest the components this way. Bent the shields back and reassembled the brakes.

When the old LCA came out, the axle immediately shifted backward so that the new LCA bushing did not line up with the mounts. I used a ratcheting strap to pull the axle back where it was supposed to be, and a bottle jack to help line things up. When replacing the axle mount bolt, I reversed the direction so that the nut was between the splash shield and the mount, I don't want to have to deal with that junk again.

Put the wheels back on and dropped it to the ground and torqued everything down. While under there, I went back to the UCA and retorqued the bolts. Interesting that after a week of driving around, they were no longer torqued to spec. Probably had to put half a turn total onto each side, I was surprised.

Also changed the oil & filter, Mobile 1 10W-30 and Fram XG16.

Next up: Valve cover gaskets, fuel injector electrical connectors.
GmanWJ is offline  
post #14 of 55 Old 02-13-2018, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
GmanWJ
Registered User
 
GmanWJ's Avatar
2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Santa Maria, California
Posts: 353
Garage
One other thing I noticed, there was a small amount of oil around the area of the axle seal. I just replaced those a couple months ago, so I hope this was just residual oil that was hiding somewhere I could not clean up. I don't want to have to do that again already.
GmanWJ is offline  
post #15 of 55 Old 02-13-2018, 01:42 PM
blueseasons1
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 487
I bought my Jeep 4 years ago. It came with Teves. I figured since they had worked for that long, just leave them when I needed brakes. I had one freeze up on me a couple hundred miles from home. I was able to loosen it up and get home, but decided to swap them out for Akebonos. I had to buy 2 new calipers, new pads and recut rotors that had only one year and 1500 miles on them. The way it goes. One less thing to worry about on these things.
blueseasons1 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome