2000wj 4.0 Electric Fan. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 17 Old 09-19-2020, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
Klarah523
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2000wj 4.0 Electric Fan.

Someone bodged the wiring in mine and I'm trying to make sense of it. In the meantime I have a couple of questions.


1. It comes on okay at temp and if I turn the A/C on, but is it supposed to keep running after engine shutoff like some other vehicles? (It doesn't).

2. Any harm in just "deleting" it out of the Jeep, leaving it by the dumpsters for the tweakers to run off with, capping off the PO's 'mystery wiring,' and just running with the clutch fan I'll be installing?

Clutch fan because the electric isn't enough for rush hour traffic at 120f. Or keeping a 4.0 WJ rolling uphill at highway-ish speeds (L2 + 3k rpm)


Is this the correct wiring diagram? I have a third wire capped off with electrical tape that I don't know what-do. It comes out from under the headlight with the other two fan wires.

Edit: I'll not really futz with it until I get the bolts for the fan. Apparently neither Ace nor any parts stores have the M10 bolts under 20mm, so I'm ordering from the Bay of E.




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post #2 of 17 Old 09-19-2020, 06:35 AM
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The only thing I can help you with is to say no to 1). I have a 2000 WJ 4.0L too. Good luck.
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post #3 of 17 Old 09-19-2020, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JeepPA2000 View Post
The only thing I can help you with is to say no to 1). I have a 2000 WJ 4.0L too. Good luck.

Thanks, that's actually useful in a 'okay, at least that's normal' way.



It's always "fun" trying to undo either PO or hack mechanic "fixes." Even in this day and age, some 'professional' wrench wranglers do really #$&%ed up things to wiring. I'm only a novice with mechanical stuff, but used to be in aerospace assembly, so crimp connectors mangled with vice grips and bare wire showing gives me a facial tic.

At least I have the factory stereo (PO looked at me a bit odd when I was HAPPY about that) so I don't have to deal with that level of "professional installation" debauchery.
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post #4 of 17 Old 09-19-2020, 07:53 AM
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1) the engine OFF the fan off is correct.
2) I do NOT think you should delete it, I am not aware of a known issue with cooling even in hi temps. Someone from desert SW will hopefully add 2. I don't like reinventing the wheel - always suspecting another reason for problem, ESP if overheating at speed. KISS.

I attached fan diagram from manual - seams the same.
What wire is missing on your set up? What color is it?

I do not understand - yeah I am old but I try.
"Or keeping a 4.0 WJ rolling uphill at highway-ish speeds (L2 + 3k rpm)"
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 00WJ fan.pdf (87.3 KB, 3 views)

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post #5 of 17 Old 09-19-2020, 08:26 AM
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I ran my 2000 WJ with a 4.0L i6 for many thousands of miles with a mechanical clutch fan only. When my e-fan and relay went bad, I removed both of them and got a Torq-flo clutch from Autozone and a 7 blade fan from an XJ. It worked great for four years and was still working great when the rear end fell out and the WJ had to be junked.

That's the only part from Autozone that was ever put in that Jeep. The thing is, Jeep was running our 4.0L i6s for about forty years before deciding that the e-fan was a better route. I believe they failed miserably in that regard. Someone knew it, so they left the threaded nipple on the water pump for those that seek the truth and don't like wearing stupid masks that will not protect them from the virus.
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post #6 of 17 Old 09-19-2020, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
1) the engine OFF the fan off is correct.
2) I do NOT think you should delete it, I am not aware of a known issue with cooling even in hi temps. Someone from desert SW will hopefully add 2. I don't like reinventing the wheel - always suspecting another reason for problem, ESP if overheating at speed. KISS.

I attached fan diagram from manual - seams the same.
What wire is missing on your set up? What color is it?

I do not understand - yeah I am old but I try.
"Or keeping a 4.0 WJ rolling uphill at highway-ish speeds (L2 + 3k rpm)"

Was abusing the engine to keep it up to speed by manually downshifting because the transmission kept hunting up and down and beating the crap out of the drivetrain. The Beeline highway (SR87) here has some brutal grades ('trucks use low gear' signs and all) -- "Normal" highway use doesn't give me issues.

I'm in the desert SW. It's okay with sitting in traffic until it's 115+ out, then it's 'roll down the windows and turn on the heater' time, which is a bit miserable.

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post #7 of 17 Old 09-19-2020, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattyjm View Post
I ran my 2000 WJ with a 4.0L i6 for many thousands of miles with a mechanical clutch fan only. When my e-fan and relay went bad, I removed both of them and got a Torq-flo clutch from Autozone and a 7 blade fan from an XJ. It worked great for four years and was still working great when the rear end fell out and the WJ had to be junked.
Yeah, I figured it would work fine as far as cooling was concerned, if a clutch fan worked to keep a 400m stuffed into an old Torino cool, it'll be fine for a wee 4.0. Just wanted to make sure I wouldn't give the computer conniptions by just lopping it out.

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post #8 of 17 Old 09-20-2020, 12:08 AM
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i think removing the fan and wiring will give the computer problems.

Sounds like you have other issues... Trans sounds like talking point, And the overall cooling system check before reinventing the wheel.

BUT I am sure thse desert SW grades are a host of problems us east coast HILL country friends can't imagine.

But lets go over the problems - its free.
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post #9 of 17 Old 09-20-2020, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtec View Post
i think removing the fan and wiring will give the computer problems.

Sounds like you have other issues... Trans sounds like talking point, And the overall cooling system check before reinventing the wheel.

BUT I am sure thse desert SW grades are a host of problems us east coast HILL country friends can't imagine.

But lets go over the problems - its free.

It's mainly the heat, TBH. I did the 'trucks use low gear' highway in the middle of the afternoon. Derp. Unless it's 115+ and I'm sitting still or pushing her real hard (rarely), she holds steady at 210.



The transmission (42re) hunts at extreme load (aforementioned horrible grades or foot-to-the-floor highway passing) but otherwise all the shifting feels normal. If anyone has some input on that it'd be welcome. It was leaky AF when I got it, new rear seal and a bottle of Lucas cleared that up, but who knows how long the PO was driving it that way.

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post #10 of 17 Old 09-20-2020, 08:07 AM
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I never got trouble codes or a CEL for fan or relay problems after removing both from the 2000 WJ. I have also removed the e-fan from the 2004 RM Edition WJ, and it's now my daily driver and has been for a while. I never removed the relay, but the e-fan has been out of there for well over two years. I totally forgot about it because ,again, there's no CEL or codes. I destroyed the fan shroud while trying to remove it from the vehicle in order to change the leaking radiator. I didn't have a replacement shroud that day, but did install the blank shroud from my 2000 WJ before it got towed to the junk yard.

It came with a factory tow package, so I already had a mechanical 5 blade fan and clutch on my water pump. I did install a new clutch to the 2004 fan when the factory one wore out. That was right around two years ago, also, if I remember correctly....And, oh yeah, it's also a 4.0L i6/42RE.

But, I do live up here in the northeast US. North western Pa. to be more precise. Plenty of hills and curves, very little in the way of straight or flat roads around here. No heating or cooling problems and no CEL.

Also, OP, are you running real antifreeze or straight water in your rig?

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post #11 of 17 Old 09-20-2020, 08:59 AM
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With the ambient temps you have, especially idling in traffic, I would personally want a functioning e-fan and clutch fan.

I'm in north GA, so nothing like you have in the way of summer temps, but my e-fan high speed went out a few months ago. I replaced it, and added a clutch fan for good measure. I keep a stick thermometer in my center vent, and it seems that my a/c is cooling slightly better with both.

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post #12 of 17 Old 09-20-2020, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattyjm View Post
It came with a factory tow package, so I already had a mechanical 5 blade fan and clutch on my water pump. I did install a new clutch to the 2004 fan when the factory one wore out. That was right around two years ago, also, if I remember correctly....And, oh yeah, it's also a 4.0L i6/42RE.

But, I do live up here in the northeast US. North western Pa. to be more precise. Plenty of hills and curves, very little in the way of straight or flat roads around here. No heating or cooling problems and no CEL.

Also, OP, are you running real antifreeze or straight water in your rig?
Antifreeze. Never run just water because I at least want the anti-corrosion. While not the best mechanic, the PO did use the orange stuff.

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post #13 of 17 Old 09-20-2020, 11:59 AM
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Mattyjm I think leaving the relay in was a good idea- that would not trip a circuit issue...
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post #14 of 17 Old 09-23-2020, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jtec View Post
Mattyjm I think leaving the relay in was a good idea- that would not trip a circuit issue...

That's what I was thinking from the circuit diagram.

Now, to contemplate what an oversize (11-blade Hummer/Colorado) fan might do to waterpump bearings, I might rethink the original plan and get a smaller fan while leaving the eFan intact.


Also, upon reflection, the transmission hunting may also be heat related -- she does just fine when I try to break the D35 on the way to work (half j/k). Will see what supplementing the cooling does, otherwise I might look into a transmission cooler.

Should've just hunted for a WJ with all the towing kit goodies, I suppose...

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post #15 of 17 Old 09-24-2020, 04:09 AM
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trans hunting I am thinking

1) TCC locking unlocking.
2) A TPS or MAP signal causing 4 to 3 downshift.
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