20-year-old motor mounts were tired enough to pull off upper radiator hose - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 05-14-2021, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
HarryH3
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20-year-old motor mounts were tired enough to pull off upper radiator hose

A while back, the upper radiator hose detached from the radiator after a punch of the throttle hard on the 4.7 during a left turn. Luckily, I had come to a stop within 150 feet or so, and immediately saw the steam rolling from under the hood. My first thought was a blown head gasket, that would suck! But, after getting the hose back in place and topping off the coolant, everything was fine. No bubbles, no pressure going to the overflow bottle. So I started thanking more about what could have happened.

Hmm, full throttle, plus left turn. The engine wants to lift up and the the right under torque and a left turn adds even more force to the right. That upper hose is quite short and doesn't have much room for the engine to move around. So I did a brakes-on throttle-on test with the hood up and yep, the engine lifted quite a bit on the drivers side. Time to order some parts.

Bought the Anchor motor mounts and went to work on the drivers side first. The first thing that you'll find is that everything under the Jeep is in your way. The front axle, tie rod, drag link, control arms, etc. I found it easiest to jack the rig and let the front axle hang at full droop to get more room to work. The bolts that hold the block to the engine were tight, ridiculously tight. I managed to get 3 of them out, but the 4th one, which the only tool that would fit into the tight space around it was a box end wrench, must have been installed by Superman. I'm surprised that the bolt didn't break when it was installed. It was that tight! There's no room for a socket and hooking one wrench to another just wasn't getting it. I ended up going to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap set of extra long wrenches. Finally had enough leverage to break it loose! What should have been a 30-minute job had stretched into a few hours. Ugh. I really hate working on this thing.

Now the old mount dropped right out. Looking at the old vs. new, side-by-side, it was very obvious that the old mount was indeed well past its prime. When you go to put the new one in, it won't line up. Don't panic! Turned out that the bracket on the frame was holding the mount from lining up with the holes in the engine block. The engine needed to move a bit because the position of the through-bolt was different between the old and new mounts. The old one had sagged, a lot. While KEEPING YOUR HANDS OUT OF THE WAY, just in case the engine drops suddenly, adjust the engine height until all 4 bolts can be started by hand. Insert the through-bolt and then tighten everything up.

The passenger side went much quicker, as it the bolts came out without too much drama. Now the engine stays where it's supposed to. Pics of the old vs. new below. The top 2 are the drivers side, the last one is the passenger side.

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Motor Mount Driver Side 1.jpg   Motor Mount Driver Side 2.jpg   Motor Mount PassSide.jpg  
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post #2 of 20 Old 05-14-2021, 01:07 PM
mak_v8
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Good job @HarryH3 !

Did you use Mopar mounts?

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post #3 of 20 Old 05-14-2021, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
HarryH3
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Originally Posted by mak_v8 View Post
Good job @HarryH3 !

Did you use Mopar mounts?
No. I used Anchor mounts, purchased from Rockauto.com. They seem quite beefy.
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post #4 of 20 Old 05-14-2021, 02:41 PM
xcaliber81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryH3 View Post
No. I used Anchor mounts, purchased from Rockauto.com. They seem quite beefy.
I used the same. No complaints. Did all 3 but the trans 1 was fine.
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post #5 of 20 Old 05-14-2021, 04:01 PM
cDee63
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I am rebuilding the drivetrain this summer with new mounts of course. The Anchor ones seem ok? I replaced the trans mount last year with OEM, ouch on that price!

2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
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post #6 of 20 Old 05-14-2021, 05:20 PM
xcaliber81
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Originally Posted by cDee63 View Post
I am rebuilding the drivetrain this summer with new mounts of course. The Anchor ones seem ok? I replaced the trans mount last year with OEM, ouch on that price!
I put these in with my replacement engine in November. I would buy them again!
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post #7 of 20 Old 05-14-2021, 05:23 PM
cDee63
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Cool, thanks! As you know this little adventure is going to cost enough.... giving the trans a makeover as well.

2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
1974 Ironhead Sportster, total custom
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post #8 of 20 Old 05-14-2021, 05:44 PM
snowbuggy
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Leave it to Chrysler to put holes in perfectly good bushings.
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post #9 of 20 Old 05-15-2021, 02:32 PM
Bigrigr
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I have done several of these motor mounts here lately, and have seen them raise the drive-train in the chassis as much as 3/4-1". Its amazing how much they sag....


Best if you do all three mounts at the same time. They all have the same years and miles on them. Trans mount will bang on the crossmember if it gets bad enough
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post #10 of 20 Old 06-12-2021, 11:00 PM
Spinifex
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I thought I was about to resurrect a years old thread - but it's recent!

Really glad you put your note in but I wish I'd read this before today. I just went through the same emotional rollercoaster (joy, hopefulness, anger, more anger, searing hatred for whoever tightened the bolts). And I was about to make a trip to Harbour freight for some longer wrenches - except I was at Harbor freight this morning looking at wrenches and decided I didn't really need the long ones.

Curious though - did you get the long offset wrenches or the flat style? I.e. These or these?
I'm curious because I was thinking of buying the flat set - but I think you need the offset to get to the bolt. And I I spent $200 on tools and I still can't get that bolt I think I'm going to burn the car lol.

Also curious about your last point of lowering the engine. I noticed that my mounts didn't line up either but the bushing offset seems wrong, I was about to return them to RockAuto when I saw your note. I wonder if they just look wrong because my mounts are so worn. Do you guys remember an offset on yours?

The bracket is the same but the bushing does not look right.
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post #11 of 20 Old 06-13-2021, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
HarryH3
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I got the standard set of wrenches, in your first link. The box end is slightly angled.

My mount was not offset like the one in your picture. It looks like the rubber is stretched. Has your rig ever been wrecked? Are both sides like that, or just one side? Quite strange! That is indeed going to make it a struggle to install the new one.
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post #12 of 20 Old 06-13-2021, 02:30 PM
Spinifex
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Bugger!

Thanks for confirming so quick.
I was looking for an excuse to buy the extra long icon set, oh well another time!
And I was desperately hoping the parts I got were defective. But all the pics I find online look like the new part.

Cars never been in a wreck, I haven't pulled the LHS out yet but it looks off too.

Seems unlikely that I've got some super rare car so seems I'm in for a fight. Not sure how I'm going to get the motor forward 10 mm.

I'll go another round with it next weekend and report back.
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post #13 of 20 Old 06-13-2021, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
HarryH3
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Perhaps the crossmember has been tweaked by hitting a large rock or something offroad? I could see that pulling the engine back. You've got a bit of a puzzle to solve.
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post #14 of 20 Old 06-14-2021, 05:38 PM
03WJinAZ
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my mounts were worse than that! Luckily i never pulled a radiator hose off, that would have made my jaw drop!


IIRC dont' the Anchor mounts have a fitment issue with the bolts on the larger flange side? Maybe this was fixed on some of the later models...i remember seeing a lot of threads about how they dont fit. I went with Crown, and they seem to be holding up fine.
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post #15 of 20 Old 06-22-2021, 07:48 AM
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How much time did it take you all to swap these out? I need to I am sure at 235k miles

'02 HO 235k ml. BDS, tubular arms, Addco sways. 245-70-17. Stock engine/tranny. Amsoil. W1CCW.
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