02 w/ 4.7 overheating when idle, cool when running - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 32 Old 06-02-2021, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
ottoman89
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Hello all, another problem has found it self why I figure out the oil leak.

I have a 4.7 with hydraulic fan. It runs cool when driving, and overheats when idle. It doesn't have the relay below the passenger headlight, I found that out by cutting the whole in the plastic.

The hydraulic fan spins when the engine is running, and when I turn on the AC it remains the same speed. I've had an AC leak last few years and add a can of freon every year.

But from what I've gathered, the fan should speed up when the AC is turned on, but doesn't.

Any ideas?

Once again, thank you all for the help. Sorry to be a pain!

I should add that within the last year and half I've installed a new water pump, thermostat, flushed the radiator and added new coolant. And yes I bled the coolant. I'm going to try that again tonight and see if that helps.

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post #2 of 32 Old 06-02-2021, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
ottoman89
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Update. The reservoir was fill. I popped off the radiator cap and the bleed screw and it took a decent amount of coolant. I've ran the Jeep for 10 minutes so far and no overheat.

Last time I bled it was around Christmas.. odd.
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post #3 of 32 Old 06-03-2021, 01:59 AM
Delta0
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Is your power steering fluid new / clean and topped up to between the lines on the dipstick ottoman?
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post #4 of 32 Old 06-03-2021, 05:16 AM
cDee63
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You may find you will have to bleed it a couple times, listen for the "waterfall" heater core sound, that is air. Not properly bled will definitely have it overheat at idle.

2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
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post #5 of 32 Old 06-03-2021, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
ottoman89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta0 View Post
Is your power steering fluid new / clean and topped up to between the lines on the dipstick ottoman?
Power steering fluid was at the top and looked pretty clean. Had a new power steering return hose installed within the last year. I'd except they put new fluid in? Not 100% though.

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Originally Posted by cDee63 View Post
You may find you will have to bleed it a couple times, listen for the "waterfall" heater core sound, that is air. Not properly bled will definitely have it overheat at idle.
Would it have taken until Christmas to find me again? Or perhaps I have a coolant leak somewhere and it's not oil like I thought. Although would coolant have a burning smell if on engine and dripping?
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post #6 of 32 Old 06-03-2021, 06:38 PM
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You could have a head gasket going south. In hindsight before mine started missing on start up it would not hold a bleed, turned out head gasket was failing. No sign of a leak externally or in the oil, just enough was leaking into cyl 4 to eventually cause a misfire on startup or to really show a drop in reservoir level until the misfire start occuring.
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2004 Limited, 4.7 modded slightly, IRO 3" RockLink LA front, adjustable SA rear, Bilsteins, Addco bar, JKS disconnects. Coming attractions include 242hd, IRO SYE and Woods DS right after the new engine/trans..
1974 Ironhead Sportster, total custom
High speed, low drag
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post #7 of 32 Old 06-04-2021, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
ottoman89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cDee63 View Post
You could have a head gasket going south. In hindsight before mine started missing on start up it would not hold a bleed, turned out head gasket was failing. No sign of a leak externally or in the oil, just enough was leaking into cyl 4 to eventually cause a misfire on startup or to really show a drop in reservoir level until the misfire start occuring.
Oh goodness I hope not!
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post #8 of 32 Old 06-04-2021, 01:18 PM
UncleWoody
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At onetime I had the same issue with my 4.7L, as long as I was moving I was ok. The solution in my case was to put a new radiator cap. Just more info for you.

"If we can really understand the problem, the answer will come out of it, because the answer is not separate from the problem"
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post #9 of 32 Old 06-05-2021, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
ottoman89
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At onetime I had the same issue with my 4.7L, as long as I was moving I was ok. The solution in my case was to put a new radiator cap. Just more info for you.
I was just researching radiator cap too. Might put on a new radiator cap and poor in some head gasket sealer and hope the mix of two fixes it. Radiator cap shows corrosion on the top outside of the lid.
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post #10 of 32 Old 06-07-2021, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
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Update: Last week I opened the bleed screw and radiator cap and added probably a 1/3 of a jug of coolant. Problem fixed.

It started overheating a couple days later so this morning, I opened the bleed screw and added just a little coolant. The coolant reservoir was full, when I opened the radiator cap it was up to the top but took a little bit of coolant.

When I turn my Jeep off I can hear tricking or what sounds like bubbling for about 20 seconds after I shut it off.

I'm stuck on this.
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post #11 of 32 Old 06-07-2021, 11:03 AM
livingod101
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Hello all,
I am having same issue. But I have replaced the fan and the radiator and made sure there are no air pockets, I spent a week checking and making sure all the bubbles are out. I really think it's just cheap stuff from AutoZone. Any recommendation on "performance" parts, since they discontinued Mopar parts for my 2004 JGC Lerado 4.0L. Thx! BTW I live in AZ, so this is an issue manly during summer, when stopped at a red light it starts overheating, cools once driving again.
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post #12 of 32 Old 06-07-2021, 12:24 PM
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Have you checked the coolant temperature yet?

Temperature gauges have been know to fail.

Rad cap seals can slit, their spring tension decreases over time.
Normally bad rad caps lead to coolant loss evaporation.

If you are not losing water, I doubt your rad cap is the villain.
Hence I've suggest that you check your coolant temp.

Good luck.
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post #13 of 32 Old 06-07-2021, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
ottoman89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta0 View Post
Have you checked the coolant temperature yet?

Temperature gauges have been know to fail.

Rad cap seals can slit, their spring tension decreases over time.
Normally bad rad caps lead to coolant loss evaporation.

If you are not losing water, I doubt your rad cap is the villain.
Hence I've suggest that you check your coolant temp.

Good luck.
I have not. Is it odd that the reservoir would be full when cold, and when I popped the radiator cap off that the coolant was to the top? But I still had to add just a little bit to bleed it again?
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post #14 of 32 Old 06-07-2021, 02:27 PM
Delta0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ottoman89 View Post
I have not. Is it odd that the reservoir would be full when cold, and when I popped the radiator cap off that the coolant was to the top? But I still had to add just a little bit to bleed it again?
Does this help?
P230 WJ Manual.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGóCOOLING SYSTEM
DEAERATION
As the engine operates, any air trapped in cooling
system gathers under the radiator cap. The next time
the engine is operated, thermal expansion of coolant
will push any trapped air past radiator cap into the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. Here it escapes to the
atmosphere into the tank. When the engine cools
down the coolant, it will be drawn from the reserve/
overflow tank into the radiator to replace any
removed air.

As your engine got hotter, the coolant expanded,
some of the coolant flowed into the reservoir.
As the engine cooled, some of the coolant
was sucked back to the engine.

How about checking your engine temp with an IR thermometer?
Stranger things than the temp gauge going TU happen to cars
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post #15 of 32 Old 06-07-2021, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
ottoman89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delta0 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ottoman89 View Post
I have not. Is it odd that the reservoir would be full when cold, and when I popped the radiator cap off that the coolant was to the top? But I still had to add just a little bit to bleed it again?
Does this help?
P230 WJ Manual.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING—COOLING SYSTEM
DEAERATION
As the engine operates, any air trapped in cooling
system gathers under the radiator cap. The next time
the engine is operated, thermal expansion of coolant
will push any trapped air past radiator cap into the
coolant reserve/overflow tank. Here it escapes to the
atmosphere into the tank. When the engine cools
down the coolant, it will be drawn from the reserve/
overflow tank into the radiator to replace any
removed air.

As your engine got hotter, the coolant expanded,
some of the coolant flowed into the reservoir.
As the engine cooled, some of the coolant
was sucked back to the engine.

How about checking your engine temp with an IR thermometer?
Stranger things than the temp gauge going TU happen to cars
I have not checked with an IR. I'll have to borrow one and check.

In theory, coolant should or should not be up to radiator cap when engine is cold?
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