00 WJ 4.0 mini-build - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 31 Old 03-10-2021, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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00 WJ 4.0 mini-build

Full disclosure, this won't be much of a build so really this is for me to keep track of what I'm doing as much as anything. I've run into scope creep with my last 2 project vehicles and I'm keen to avoid this on the WJ so I'm trying to stick to a strict plan and budget.

If you're still with me, here's what's going on. Long story short, after selling my WK my offroader no longer needed to be used as a daily so I intended to find something cheaper, a little rougher, and ideally already lifted, to save time and not feel bad beating on it. I wanted an XJ or WJ with a 4.0. What I found, and ended up buying, was an immaculate, unmolested (aside from a satellite radio), 1 owner WJ with 370k km on the clock. Not exactly what I was searching for, but it's almost uncanny how clean it is and my desire to not have to deal with someone else's janky work won out over having something turn-key. It also had the right amount of interior simplicity (no climate control, no sunroof, no factory amp) being a super duper base model with only a tow package as options.

Here's how it sat the last few months waiting to be torn into this spring:





The plan for mods is:
- 2.5" spacer lift [installed, eBay]
- JK Rubicon shocks [purchased, used]
- bar pin eliminators from WJ rear swaybar brackets [installed]
- front tow hooks > eventually a front receiver [passenger installed]
- front swaybar disconnects [ordered]
- rear seat base quick disconnect pins [drivers installed]
- RRO rock sliders for an XJ (picked these up cheap, we'll see how close the fitment is) [purchased]
- rock lights [already had]
- front and rear rock cameras [already had]
- tcase skid plate
- 17" JK Moabs with 255/75R17 (32") BFG KM2's [already had]
- double cardan front driveshaft

- tank tuck?

And a few maintenance items. Stay tuned to watch me eat my words and get horrible build creep yet again

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00 WJ
[x] 07 WK CRD/OME/MALONE 1.5 [x] 00 XJ/OME [x] 97 TJ [x] 92 YJ
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post #2 of 31 Old 03-10-2021, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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First order of business, check the coil buckets. I assumed they'd be gone, since they seem to always be, even on the cleanest of WJ's, so I got a local guy to make me some replacements to save time. Imagine my surprise when I saw this.








Sweet! I chipped off some big flakey bits, scrubbed it with a wire brush, and slapped some undercoating on because why not.





Bar pins are annoying, so knock those out of the JK rear shocks.





They're annoying up front too, and I need a little extra length for the shocks anyways. I had to grind down the bushing sleeves in the JK shocks so they were even with the bushing and then they popped right in the swaybar bracket BPE's (the guy who sold me the brackets didn't have the bolts so these massively overkill ones went in).



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post #3 of 31 Old 03-10-2021, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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And the front end all buttoned up.





I also ripped the poor things face off to replace the fan control relay (not working) and install the tow hooks I bought. Turns out the tow hook brackets got quite bent by the guy I bought those from, and even beating them with a sledge hammer wasn't straightening them out, so that part was a bust.





I moved the relay up to here, so I can get to it by just removing the headlight should it fail again.





I found this while the skin was off. These days insurance might write it off from an impact like that!





I'm not sure how that trim plate thing (what even is it?) managed to get so rusty while the rest of it is so clean, but I'm going to leave it alone because it seems to be the sacrificial piece taking all the rust for the entire vehicle.
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post #4 of 31 Old 03-12-2021, 06:52 AM
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I just trimmed the "ears" off that thin panel under the radiator crossmmeber when i did the driving light delete cut on my front bumper cover. Then i used some self drillers to screw the bottom of the bumper cover to what was left of it. This tightened up the "flap" that happens with the front bumper cover when the plastic push pins get loose.
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post #5 of 31 Old 03-12-2021, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Ah so that's what the bottom of the bumper was attached to? I chopped the old pins off and I've got some different ones to toss in.

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post #6 of 31 Old 03-14-2021, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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I got the rear end loosened up and the rear coils out today. The lower isolators are pretty shot and the buckets are a little rusty but overall in good shape. They got a quick scrape and blast with the coating too.












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[x] 07 WK CRD/OME/MALONE 1.5 [x] 00 XJ/OME [x] 97 TJ [x] 92 YJ
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post #7 of 31 Old 03-14-2021, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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Dumb question, do I need to extend the front or rear bumpstops with 2.5" of lift and 32" tires?

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[x] 07 WK CRD/OME/MALONE 1.5 [x] 00 XJ/OME [x] 97 TJ [x] 92 YJ
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post #8 of 31 Old 03-15-2021, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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I thought to cycle the rear with the springs out and the only contact was the mudflap and a bit of the plastic above that when it was right on the stop. So I think JK wheels + 32" mud tires are fine and I didn't bother to tap the post up top.


I also got the rear springs back in and drained the tcase fluid. It was full and didn't smell too bad but the tcase was a little sticky on the test drive so we'll see if a fluid change helps.

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post #9 of 31 Old 03-23-2021, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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The lift is done aside from the rear shocks (still waiting on bushings) and the tcase feels better with the fluid change but I only drove it up and down the driveway. I managed to bend the passenger side tow hook enough to get it on so at least I have one up there. Excuse the weenie tires still being on there, I hand unmounted 6 tires and mounted 4 to get the right tires on the right rims and now I'm just waiting for balance beads (airsoft beads) to show up so I can put them on the Jeep. I also popped the headlights from AnzoUSA in, the install is dead simple and they look great.

Predictably the front driveshaft started clicking in all the 4WD modes so now I'm searching for a double cardan too.





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[x] 07 WK CRD/OME/MALONE 1.5 [x] 00 XJ/OME [x] 97 TJ [x] 92 YJ
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post #10 of 31 Old 03-24-2021, 03:10 AM
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I dig on those headlights....


Its coming along well, I wonder about your rear shock clearance when you get them on, The JK wheels and 32" tires are what i run, but I believe they rub the rear shocks without either wheel spacers, or the rear shock lower mount relocating bracket my RC lift came with. If you add the wheel spacers, you will get more rub than you have now, I had to "roll" my rear fender lip, and trim extensively on the bottom of the front bumper cover...and my lift is a 4" lift.
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post #11 of 31 Old 03-24-2021, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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They modernize the front end nicely, I feel like combined with the small lift and JK wheels it'll make the WJ look like a much newer vehicle than it actually is.


Moving it without the shocks made it evident how important shocks really are. The rear is a bit loaded down with WK rock sliders, 2 sets of JK springs and a set of JK shocks and man was it bouncy when I went back up the curb onto the driveway. I felt like one of the lowrider guys with the hydraulics. I do have an assortment of slip on spacers so if the tires foul the shocks I *might* be able to squeak them out enough to clear without adding too much rubbing.


I pulled the front driveshaft since it clicked in 4WD, I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure that's toast.





Fluid came out of the connection at the front when I was taking the bolts out, again I'm no expert but I believe that's not supposed to happen and I need to do the pinion seal. I'm not sure which of these is the correct one since there's a few different looks. I think the SKF 15566 is correct? The parts fiche I normally use doesn't list the front axle at all for some reason but running part #5012454AB backwards seems to say it's the right one. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...nion+seal,2380



I also came across these to convert to a double cardan without having to mess with changing the yokes. I'm not sure if anyone else here has used them but I'll give them a shot.



https://www.driveshaftparts.com/inde...roduct_id=1627

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post #12 of 31 Old 03-24-2021, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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I also decided to find the answer to a question literally nobody is asking. Do XJ rock sliders fit a WJ? I got these brand new RRO super sliders for peanuts and figured it was worth finding out. I knew they'd be a little short due to the wheel base difference, but I thought they might be close enough. You can decide for yourself, scooted back all the way they would at least protect the doors but there's a pretty big gap.











The frame rail to pinch weld spacing is a little bigger on the XJ, so that part would fit and be easy enough to fill with a strip of metal or some washers. The real issue is that the WJ frame rails appear to be tucked up higher than the XJ ones, so either this plate hangs down a lot or it needs to be modified. If someone was cutting the plates off and rewelding them in a different spot it'd be the perfect opportunity to shorten the tubes a smidge and have the pinch weld line right up.





I might do that if the length was closer, but as they sit there's too much area still exposed and it's a bit too funny looking for my liking so I'll just resell these.

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post #13 of 31 Old 03-25-2021, 09:36 AM
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Yep, thats the most common problem I see wiht the Rzeppa driveshaft, that boot gets torn and then dirt gets in. Double Cardan is way better. I have not used the adators to install the DC with the original yokes, so I canrt speak to them, but i just went to a JY and grabbed the yokes off a WJ there. Easy swap.



Last pinion seal i did, was an AC delco brand part # 5778 from Amazon. It does look different at first, because the original seal has a thin metal dust shield stacked ontop of the seal. I have always just left that part out,as the aftermarket seals dont come with it. Never had a problem. trick i learned here is to use a socket or piece of pipe that just fits inside the lip of the seal to install it. If you try to tap on the edge to drive it home it will tweak it badly. Dont ask me how i know...


If you had lube INSIDE your yoke, might wanna clean the splines real good, and spread a little silicone on the inside of the yoke, to keep fluid from traveling up the splines and back into your yoke, just for good measure.



I dont HATE those sliders...But i do wish they mated up a little better at the frame...Never know till ya try right?
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post #14 of 31 Old 03-25-2021, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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I was going to do the junkyard route, but there's only one nearby and they don't seem to be bringing in WJs as much as they used to. A few years back they always had piles of XJs, ZJs and WJs to choose from but not anymore. The driveshafts seem to be the first thing to go so I might be waiting a while to get one there. Reading here the 4.0 and 4.7 have different shaft lengths and there's a few different tcase spline counts so that'd make it even less likely that I'd find the right one.

Since they're cheap, I'll probably order 2 pinion seals. With the way my luck goes, if I order just 1 I'll mangle it and have to wait for another, but if I order 2 I'll get it right the first time.

The fluid in the yoke was really weird, with the stock driveshaft on there it's sealed up but if I use an adapter I'm guessing it won't be so I definitely want to prevent that happening more. Free corrosion protection though lol.

The sliders I'm torn on. They don't look bad enough for me to say "oh hell no", but they're not quite as nice a fit as I was hoping for. I might toss them up for sale and see what happens, if they don't sell then I'll have a fab guy extend the front and adjust the mounting plates.

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post #15 of 31 Old 03-26-2021, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underscore View Post
And the front end all buttoned up.




I also ripped the poor things face off to replace the fan control relay (not working) and install the tow hooks I bought. Turns out the tow hook brackets got quite bent by the guy I bought those from, and even beating them with a sledge hammer wasn't straightening them out, so that part was a bust.





I moved the relay up to here, so I can get to it by just removing the headlight should it fail again.





I found this while the skin was off. These days insurance might write it off from an impact like that!





I'm not sure how that trim plate thing (what even is it?) managed to get so rusty while the rest of it is so clean, but I'm going to leave it alone because it seems to be the sacrificial piece taking all the rust for the entire vehicle.
Hey FYI on the fan relay. The wiring was long enough that I can move the relay to the bottom side of the sheet metal. I used the same attachment hole but from the bottom side. Now I can get to it anytime from the bottom. Just need to pull wheel well cover.
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