What's first...Parking brake, or shift to Park? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 31 Old 06-18-2021, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
Homer1
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What's first...Parking brake, or shift to Park?

We live on a street w/ a pretty decent incline (that + snow= my first jeep). When we park facing down, we turn the wheels to the curb, and use the parking brake. My daughter said someone recommended that she apply the brake before putting it into park so that the "stress" is on the brakes, not the drive train.

Any thoughts??

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post #2 of 31 Old 06-18-2021, 08:15 AM
Fast55
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Agreed. That will prevent loading the parking pawl in the transmission which really isn't designed to hold the vehicle against an incline.
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post #3 of 31 Old 06-18-2021, 08:42 AM
colinzj
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The manual agrees with your daughter.
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post #4 of 31 Old 06-18-2021, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by colinzj View Post
The manual agrees with your daughter.
As does the truck driver that taught me how to drive.
Transmissions are expensive to repair assuming you have someone who can do the job and not make things worse.
Brakes are not.
I was taught: stop, neutral, set parking brake, carefully lift foot off the brake, (make sure the parking brake is holding, be ready to act if it doesn't) trans to park. Don't forget to shut the engine off.
This isn't really needed at the supermarket parking lot, but you're trying to build muscle memory.
And who leaves their manual transmissions in gear when parked?
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post #5 of 31 Old 06-18-2021, 10:12 AM
Jurassic_Jeep
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Here's what I do to put 100% of the weight on the parking/e-brake

(0. If you have air suspension, make sure its all the way down.)
1. Brake pedal down (with right foot, of course).
2. Put into Neutral.
3. Put parking/e-brake down (with left foot).
4. Release brake pedal (you'll see some tension will be released here).
5. Place into park.

Done.

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post #6 of 31 Old 06-18-2021, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jurassic_Jeep View Post
Here's what I do to put 100% of the weight on the parking/e-brake

(0. If you have air suspension, make sure its all the way down.)
1. Brake pedal down (with right foot, of course).
2. Put into Neutral.
3. Put parking/e-brake down (with left foot).
4. Release brake pedal (you'll see some tension will be released here).
5. Place into park.

Done.
Except for the additional wear/tear on the air suspension, this is what I do also.
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post #7 of 31 Old 06-18-2021, 11:24 AM
Jurassic_Jeep
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I should make that clear, if you have easy/exit on, wait for it to reach the bottom (it takes 10 to 12 seconds). If you don't have easy/exit on, than no waiting is required. Just proceed to step 1.


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Except for the additional wear/tear on the air suspension, this is what I do also.

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post #8 of 31 Old 06-18-2021, 11:51 AM
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My jeep since new.....Hill...sets parking brake in neutral with brakes on. test by lifting off brakes, jeep starts rolling. Pull harder on the PB to the point it will not pull up no more....still rolls. Put in park and thinks coitus it. this 12 has worse PB then the 66 i had with a single drum on the t case.....

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post #9 of 31 Old 06-18-2021, 12:05 PM
Jurassic_Jeep
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Definitely, you need to tighten your PB. Some cars have an automatic tightening mechanism, and basically that way you do it is exactly that, just roll backwards at low speeds in neutral and slam the PB. After a few times, it will tighten up. I don't know if the Jeep GC has it, though, I'm sure someone here can confirm.

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My jeep since new.....Hill...sets parking brake in neutral with brakes on. test by lifting off brakes, jeep starts rolling. Pull harder on the PB to the point it will not pull up no more....still rolls. Put in park and thinks coitus it. this 12 has worse PB then the 66 i had with a single drum on the t case.....

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post #10 of 31 Old 06-18-2021, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 2014RedHemiGC View Post
Except for the additional wear/tear on the air suspension, this is what I do also.
I typically hit the down button when I turn onto my street, and I do that as well. Always have, parking brake on, then test it in neutral (or clutch in with a manual) then put it in park/reverse(manual).
But in my more experienced years, I find myself not using the parking brake occasionally when parked on the level, but I only seem to do it in the Jeep, never in any other car.
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post #11 of 31 Old 06-18-2021, 12:22 PM
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The Parking brakes are small, cable operated, drums integrated into the rear rotors, in theory, they are self-adjusting but if you live in an area where the roads are salted in winter the self-adjustment mechanism may not work so well on older vehicles. On the hills in San Francisco, you have to literally stand on the peddle to get the parking brakes to hold.
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post #12 of 31 Old 06-18-2021, 12:31 PM
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Parking brakes have a star wheel as does most adjustable drum brakes.

The cable itself has a self adjuster in the pedal. When I get back I'll look up the adjustment procedure.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
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post #13 of 31 Old 06-19-2021, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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Well the verdict is in...thank you all! I wasn't sure what I did til i went out for a drive, and when i came home i caught myself putting the park break on before I release the reg brake pedal.

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post #14 of 31 Old 06-19-2021, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilko View Post
The Parking brakes are small, cable operated, drums integrated into the rear rotors, in theory, they are self-adjusting but if you live in an area where the roads are salted in winter the self-adjustment mechanism may not work so well on older vehicles. On the hills in San Francisco, you have to literally stand on the peddle to get the parking brakes to hold.
I think that is the reason they dont work well. To small of a drum. I have tightened the space but still same. so itook it apart for inspection. The pads do not even make a complete contact patch......not surprised really

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post #15 of 31 Old 06-19-2021, 11:10 AM
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The parking brakes operated by a automatic tensioner mechanism built into the foot lever and cable system. The front cable is connected to the foot lever and the equalizer. The rear cables attached to the equalizer and the parking brake shoe actuator.

A set of drum type brake shoes are used for parking brakes. The shoes are mounted to the rear disc brake adaptor. The parking brake drum is integrated into the rear disc brake rotor.

Parking brake cable adjustment is controlled by an automatic tensioner mechanism. The only adjustment if necessary is to the parking brake shoes if the linings are worn.

Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes described as a loose lever or too loose condition), is the result of worn brake shoes, improper brake shoe adjustment, or improperly assembled brake parts.

A too loose condition can also be caused by inoperative or improperly assembled parking brake shoe parts.

A condition where the parking brakes do not hold, will most probably be due to a wheel brake component.

Items to look for when diagnosing a parking brake problem, are:

•Brake shoe wear
•Drum surface (in rear rotor) machined oversize
•Front cable not secured to lever
•Rear cable not attached to actuator
•Rear cable seized
•Parking brake lever not seated
•Parking brake lever bind

To adjust the brake shoes, rotor installed:

1.Be sure the parking brake lever is fully released.

2.Raise and support the vehicle

3.Remove the rear wheels.

4.Remove the plug from each access hole in the brake support plates.

5.Insert an adjusting tool through the support plate access hole and engage the tool in the teeth of the adjusting screw star wheel.

6.Rotate the adjuster screw star wheel (move tool handle upward) until slight drag can be felt when the star wheel is rotated.

7.Back off the adjuster screw star wheel until brake drag is eliminated.

8.Repeat adjustment at the opposite wheel. Be sure adjustment is equal at both wheels.

9.Install the support plate access hole plugs.

10.Install the rear wheels .

11.Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.

12.Depress the park brake lever and make sure the park brakes hold the vehicle stationary.

13.Release the park brake lever.


INSPECTION

As a general rule, brake shoes when riveted, should be replaced when worn to within 0.78 mm (1/32 in.) of the rivet heads. Brake shoes when bonded, should be replaced when worn to a thickness of 1.6 mm (1/16 in.).

Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if the shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining should exhibit contact across its entire width. Shoes exhibiting contact only on one side should be replaced and the drum checked for runout or taper.

Inspect the equalizer and adjuster assembly. Replace the adjuster assembly if the star wheel or threads are damaged, or if the components are severely rusted or corroded.

Discard the brake springs and retainer components if worn, distorted or collapsed. Also replace the springs if a brake drag condition had occurred. Overheating will distort and weaken the springs.

Inspect the brake shoe contact pads on the support plate. Replace the support plate if any of the pads are worn or rusted through. Also replace the support plate if bent or distorted.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
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