Trick to removing cover over driver's side spark plugs? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 43 Old 12-01-2014, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
Jase80
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Trick to removing cover over driver's side spark plugs?

I am changing the spark plugs on my wife's 2012 3.6L V6 GC. The three coils and plugs on the passenger side were very simple to change out. I am not worried about those.

I am having difficulties getting to the 3 plugs on the driver's side located under the plastic intake. This plastic intake piece I am referring to is the black plastic piece that is attached between the throttle body and the top of the engine. Is there a trick to getting this plastic intake off? I have removed the black plastic tubing that connects to the air filter box. I have removed the two torx bolts on the driver's side of this plastic intake and the one torx bolt near the throttle body. I have also loosened 6 torx screws from the top. There are 3 long threaded screws (that the two bolts from the side and the one by the throttle body mentioned earlier came off of) that are threaded through a metal clamp. Are these suppose to be taken off as well? They don't look like they should. Has anyone else taken this piece off to get to the 3 spark plugs on the driver's side? If so, would you mind walking me through it?

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post #2 of 43 Old 12-01-2014, 05:57 PM
kryogen
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you need to remove the parts that are in the way by unscrewing or pulling.

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post #3 of 43 Old 01-31-2015, 06:43 PM
mpligon
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I'm running into the same problem. According to the Haynes manual the piece you are referring to is the upper intake manifold. To answer your question yes the two metal clamps have to come off as well or at least loosened from the bottom.

I really recommend getting the manual for this procedure, it's rather involved. Has anyone done a write up for this?
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post #4 of 43 Old 02-01-2015, 06:48 PM
ColdCase
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You need to get the upper intake manifold off to get to the drivers side coil pack and plugs:

"If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 2, 4 or 6 on the LH side of the engine, first remove the air inlet hose, upper intake manifold (2) and insulator

UPPER Intake Manifold

1.Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.

2.Remove the engine cover (1).

3.Disconnect the electrical connector (2) from the Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor.

4.Loosen the clamp (1) at the throttle body.

5.Loosen the clamp (4) at the air cleaner body.

6.Remove the resonator (3).

7.Disengage the brake booster hose retainer (1) from the upper intake manifold.

8.Disconnect the electrical connectors from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (2) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (4).

9.Disengage the ETC harness from the clip (5) on the throttle body. Disengage the wire harness retainer (1) from the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor and reposition the wire harness.

10.Disconnect the following hoses from the upper intake manifold:

•Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (7)
•vapor purge (3)
•brake booster (6)


11.Disengage the wire harness retainer (4) from the studbolt (3).

12.Remove two nuts (1), loosen the studbolt (3) and reposition the upper intake manifold support bracket (2).

13.Remove the nut (2) from the support bracket of the heater core return tube (3).

14.Remove two nuts (1), loosen two studbolts (3) and reposition the two upper intake manifold support brackets (2).

NOTE:
The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold.

NOTE:
Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts.

15.Remove seven upper intake manifold attaching bolts (1) and remove the upper intake manifold (2).`

16.Remove and discard the six upper to lower intake manifold seals (1).

17.Cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine.

18.If required, remove the insulator (2) from the LH cylinder head cover."
Attached Thumbnails
Screen Shot intake man.jpg   Man 2.jpg   Man 3.jpg  
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post #5 of 43 Old 02-02-2015, 06:36 AM
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Coldcase, you should sticky a "how to" thread and lock it out for postings. That way you can put writeups like this (whether you do them or others do) in there for future reference. I am a ways off from replacing spark plugs and thinking about having to search for this procedure, and others that posted up from time to time. If you lock it out from comments it will keep the thread limited to write ups and not fill up with the typical chit chat.

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post #6 of 43 Old 02-02-2015, 07:30 AM
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We do have an modification/maintenance/howto sticky thread where we index these types of threads. I think the discussion often brings more information to the table and members may post their tips

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post #7 of 43 Old 02-02-2015, 09:50 AM
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Ohh, that's useful - THANKS!
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post #8 of 43 Old 04-01-2015, 12:49 AM
muzicman82
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FIRST OF ALL... I found this write-up (http://www.challengertalk.com/forums...tastar-213266/), which applies for the most part, but it is for a Challenger. Tons of good stuff here.

I had a few things go wrong.... First, I followed some advice from a few sources that said instead of losening the lower upper intake manifold bracket nuts, to use a E5 socket and remove the stub from the manifold. This worked... until I got to the one by the throttle body. This one stripped almost instantly, and then it wouldn't come out. So, I don't have a new stud there. Is it necessary?

Oh, and the post at the bottom of the resonator on the Jeep broke.

I also ended up snapping the vacuum harness. It is kind of brittle.

It took me well over 4 hours just to get the manifold off. I have all of the tools mentioned in that write-up and then some.. but on the Jeep, I ended up laying on top of the radiator most of the time because I'm 5'7" short and couldn't reach hardly any of the things I needed to. Putting it back wasn't much fun either. I would LOVE to see a video of someone doing this "the correct way".

So, plugs replaced easily enough...

Can someone find me the part number for the studs that have the threads and T-5 end on them? I can't seem to locate it in the parts guide... Or are these going to be part of the whole manifold?

What exactly does the vacuum harness do, which is connected to the purge valve? That hard hose is non existent right now but the vehicle seems to drive OK without it... I will definitely order and replace.
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post #9 of 43 Old 04-02-2015, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
Jase80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muzicman82 View Post

It took me well over 4 hours just to get the manifold off. I have all of the tools mentioned in that write-up and then some.. but on the Jeep, I ended up laying on top of the radiator most of the time because I'm 5'7" short and couldn't reach hardly any of the things I needed to. Putting it back wasn't much fun either. I would LOVE to see a video of someone doing this "the correct way".

So, plugs replaced easily enough...
Man, I am 5'11 and I still couldn't reach most of the back side. I was practically laying on the radiator and curled up in different positions trying to reach things. It took me about 4 hours to do the same, too. So you aren't the only one. Luckily I got it all back together without breaking anything. But now I have to go back into all that nastiness bc I think cylinder 6's boot needs to be replaced on my wife's Jeep. I'm getting a 'check engine' code about it.
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post #10 of 43 Old 08-04-2015, 02:15 PM
terryh80
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So you have to replace the 6 upper plenum gaskets when you replace the spark plugs? I'm just trying to make sure I have everything on hand to do it. Thanks.
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post #11 of 43 Old 05-28-2016, 06:07 AM
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Hi, I decided to change my plugs in my 2011 wk2 with 85K miles. It ran ok but idle was rough. Much to my surprise, this was harder than I thought; took me almost 5 hours. Here are the steps I took and some things that I experienced.

I bought OE champion plugs, Thread anti-seize, die-electric for plugs wires and electrical connectors and intake manifold gaskets.

I removed the engine cover, intake hose with air box cover and disconnected the air sensor.

The first 3 plugs on passenger side are in plain view. Took 20 minutes to change these. unscrew coil, pull straight up. 5/8 socket. Torque to 13 ft lbs. Done!

The remaining time was spent on the drivers side. You have to remove the intake manifold. No easy task!

First I disconnected the electrical connections to the throttle body, then I disconnected the vacuum hose behind the throttle body. There are two nuts that need to come out on the bracket behind the throttle body.

Then there are 7 screws that hold the intake manifold. The one near the firewall is difficult. Then you need to remove the two nuts on the drivers side of the intake manifold and since these are posts, you have to remove the two nuts that hold these brackets on. Loosen just enough to pull the bracket back off the posts. Again, the lower nut on the bracket near the firewall took the most time. There is also a clip that holds the AC hardline which needs to come off. I pryed it off with a screwdriver. not easy! then taking that nut off in that very tight space was not fun! This was the worst part of the job.

Once everything is loose, the manifold can come off.

Couple of tips: Ensure you take the screws completely out of the manifold. Otherwise they will drop down and prevent the manifold from sliding out. You don't need to remove the hose at the back of the manifold, there is enough slack to move it over. There are a couple of wire ties you have to cut. The one holding the hose at the driver's side corner of the intake manifold and the electrical harness going to the throttle body.

I also ordered new intake manifold gaskets since they were easy to replace.

With 85K miles, these plugs were worn pretty badly. No way they could go another 10K miles without degrading performance. There are a few youtube video's of a guy changing his plugs on a charger- same engine. There are slight difference which I have outline here.

Good luck! (sorry, I did not take any pictures)
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post #12 of 43 Old 05-28-2016, 08:08 AM
gamma500
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Intake manifold gaskets

Are more than 1 gasket needed, all the same part number ?

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post #13 of 43 Old 05-28-2016, 09:47 AM
Benzie002
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One part # and there are 6 in the package. I ordered from Rock auto- their set has the top and bottom set- I only used the top.
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post #14 of 43 Old 05-28-2016, 03:27 PM
gamma500
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Thanks...much appreciated.

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post #15 of 43 Old 05-28-2016, 08:56 PM
kryogen
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Seriously why cant manufacturers design engines with plugs that can actually be changed without removing the intake?
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