Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

Trick to removing cover over driver's side spark plugs?

106K views 45 replies 22 participants last post by  BigTizzie 
#1 ·
I am changing the spark plugs on my wife's 2012 3.6L V6 GC. The three coils and plugs on the passenger side were very simple to change out. I am not worried about those.

I am having difficulties getting to the 3 plugs on the driver's side located under the plastic intake. This plastic intake piece I am referring to is the black plastic piece that is attached between the throttle body and the top of the engine. Is there a trick to getting this plastic intake off? I have removed the black plastic tubing that connects to the air filter box. I have removed the two torx bolts on the driver's side of this plastic intake and the one torx bolt near the throttle body. I have also loosened 6 torx screws from the top. There are 3 long threaded screws (that the two bolts from the side and the one by the throttle body mentioned earlier came off of) that are threaded through a metal clamp. Are these suppose to be taken off as well? They don't look like they should. Has anyone else taken this piece off to get to the 3 spark plugs on the driver's side? If so, would you mind walking me through it?
 
#3 ·
I'm running into the same problem. According to the Haynes manual the piece you are referring to is the upper intake manifold. To answer your question yes the two metal clamps have to come off as well or at least loosened from the bottom.

I really recommend getting the manual for this procedure, it's rather involved. Has anyone done a write up for this?
 
#4 ·
You need to get the upper intake manifold off to get to the drivers side coil pack and plugs:

"If removing the ignition coils from cylinders 2, 4 or 6 on the LH side of the engine, first remove the air inlet hose, upper intake manifold (2) and insulator

UPPER Intake Manifold

1.Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.

2.Remove the engine cover (1).

3.Disconnect the electrical connector (2) from the Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor.

4.Loosen the clamp (1) at the throttle body.

5.Loosen the clamp (4) at the air cleaner body.

6.Remove the resonator (3).

7.Disengage the brake booster hose retainer (1) from the upper intake manifold.

8.Disconnect the electrical connectors from the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (2) and the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (4).

9.Disengage the ETC harness from the clip (5) on the throttle body. Disengage the wire harness retainer (1) from the upper intake manifold near the MAP sensor and reposition the wire harness.

10.Disconnect the following hoses from the upper intake manifold:

•Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) (7)
•vapor purge (3)
•brake booster (6)


11.Disengage the wire harness retainer (4) from the studbolt (3).

12.Remove two nuts (1), loosen the studbolt (3) and reposition the upper intake manifold support bracket (2).

13.Remove the nut (2) from the support bracket of the heater core return tube (3).

14.Remove two nuts (1), loosen two studbolts (3) and reposition the two upper intake manifold support brackets (2).

NOTE:
The upper intake manifold attaching bolts are captured in the upper intake manifold. Once loosened, the bolts will have to be lifted out of the lower intake manifold and held while removing the upper intake manifold.

NOTE:
Exercise care not to inadvertently loosen the two fuel rail attachment bolts that are in close proximity of the upper intake manifold attaching bolts.

15.Remove seven upper intake manifold attaching bolts (1) and remove the upper intake manifold (2).`

16.Remove and discard the six upper to lower intake manifold seals (1).

17.Cover the open intake ports to prevent debris from entering the engine.

18.If required, remove the insulator (2) from the LH cylinder head cover."
 

Attachments

#5 ·
Coldcase, you should sticky a "how to" thread and lock it out for postings. That way you can put writeups like this (whether you do them or others do) in there for future reference. I am a ways off from replacing spark plugs and thinking about having to search for this procedure, and others that posted up from time to time. If you lock it out from comments it will keep the thread limited to write ups and not fill up with the typical chit chat.
 
#6 ·
We do have an modification/maintenance/howto sticky thread where we index these types of threads. I think the discussion often brings more information to the table and members may post their tips
 
#8 ·
FIRST OF ALL... I found this write-up (http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f108/spark-plug-replacement-3-6l-pentastar-213266/), which applies for the most part, but it is for a Challenger. Tons of good stuff here.

I had a few things go wrong.... First, I followed some advice from a few sources that said instead of losening the lower upper intake manifold bracket nuts, to use a E5 socket and remove the stub from the manifold. This worked... until I got to the one by the throttle body. This one stripped almost instantly, and then it wouldn't come out. So, I don't have a new stud there. Is it necessary?

Oh, and the post at the bottom of the resonator on the Jeep broke.

I also ended up snapping the vacuum harness. It is kind of brittle.

It took me well over 4 hours just to get the manifold off. I have all of the tools mentioned in that write-up and then some.. but on the Jeep, I ended up laying on top of the radiator most of the time because I'm 5'7" short and couldn't reach hardly any of the things I needed to. Putting it back wasn't much fun either. I would LOVE to see a video of someone doing this "the correct way".

So, plugs replaced easily enough...

Can someone find me the part number for the studs that have the threads and T-5 end on them? I can't seem to locate it in the parts guide... Or are these going to be part of the whole manifold?

What exactly does the vacuum harness do, which is connected to the purge valve? That hard hose is non existent right now but the vehicle seems to drive OK without it... I will definitely order and replace.
 
#9 ·
It took me well over 4 hours just to get the manifold off. I have all of the tools mentioned in that write-up and then some.. but on the Jeep, I ended up laying on top of the radiator most of the time because I'm 5'7" short and couldn't reach hardly any of the things I needed to. Putting it back wasn't much fun either. I would LOVE to see a video of someone doing this "the correct way".

So, plugs replaced easily enough...
Man, I am 5'11 and I still couldn't reach most of the back side. I was practically laying on the radiator and curled up in different positions trying to reach things. It took me about 4 hours to do the same, too. So you aren't the only one. Luckily I got it all back together without breaking anything. But now I have to go back into all that nastiness bc I think cylinder 6's boot needs to be replaced on my wife's Jeep. I'm getting a 'check engine' code about it.
 
#11 ·
Hi, I decided to change my plugs in my 2011 wk2 with 85K miles. It ran ok but idle was rough. Much to my surprise, this was harder than I thought; took me almost 5 hours. Here are the steps I took and some things that I experienced.

I bought OE champion plugs, Thread anti-seize, die-electric for plugs wires and electrical connectors and intake manifold gaskets.

I removed the engine cover, intake hose with air box cover and disconnected the air sensor.

The first 3 plugs on passenger side are in plain view. Took 20 minutes to change these. unscrew coil, pull straight up. 5/8 socket. Torque to 13 ft lbs. Done!

The remaining time was spent on the drivers side. You have to remove the intake manifold. No easy task!

First I disconnected the electrical connections to the throttle body, then I disconnected the vacuum hose behind the throttle body. There are two nuts that need to come out on the bracket behind the throttle body.

Then there are 7 screws that hold the intake manifold. The one near the firewall is difficult. Then you need to remove the two nuts on the drivers side of the intake manifold and since these are posts, you have to remove the two nuts that hold these brackets on. Loosen just enough to pull the bracket back off the posts. Again, the lower nut on the bracket near the firewall took the most time. There is also a clip that holds the AC hardline which needs to come off. I pryed it off with a screwdriver. not easy! then taking that nut off in that very tight space was not fun! This was the worst part of the job.

Once everything is loose, the manifold can come off.

Couple of tips: Ensure you take the screws completely out of the manifold. Otherwise they will drop down and prevent the manifold from sliding out. You don't need to remove the hose at the back of the manifold, there is enough slack to move it over. There are a couple of wire ties you have to cut. The one holding the hose at the driver's side corner of the intake manifold and the electrical harness going to the throttle body.

I also ordered new intake manifold gaskets since they were easy to replace.

With 85K miles, these plugs were worn pretty badly. No way they could go another 10K miles without degrading performance. There are a few youtube video's of a guy changing his plugs on a charger- same engine. There are slight difference which I have outline here.

Good luck! (sorry, I did not take any pictures)
 
#19 ·
Well, I wish I would have seen this full post before I changed the spark plugs on my wife's 2013. I saw it on the Ipad app, but none of the pictures showed up, so I was pretty much working from a pictureless instruction manual. It was a big help though, so a big thanks goes to ColdCase (for the second write up of his that I have used).

What a pain in the "you know what." Finding all seven of the attaching bolts was extremely difficult without knowing where they were! Also, I did find that the two brackets on the drivers side of the manifold didn't have to be removed. Just take the top two nuts off and bend the brackets outward a bit (or remove them if you want to do it the proper way). Similar for the rear bracket against the fire wall, just remove the two nuts and lightly hammer it using a prybar to rotate it off of the manifold studs (or find a way to remove the bracket without making your neighbors come out an fear you because you are basically taking a big chisel and hammer to the engine of your wife's beautiful WK2). :grin2:
 
#20 ·
can anyone provide some insight into pulling the plenum out of place once all the bolts and brackets are unfastened? I have the plenum up off the lower portion - it just won't move to the drivers side to come out (from the passenger side brackets behind the throttle body). I think my problem might be the bolts that are hanging down. I feel that I have followed the directions well - the only thing is I cannot find a way to handle those darn 8MM bolts!

Unbelievable how frustrating this job is replacing the spark plugs.

Everyone's time posting these instructions is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
#21 ·
So you pulled seven bolts from the top, four nuts from the drivers side (or top two nuts and bend the brackets) and two nuts from the rear (near throttle body)? If you did all that it may still be caught on the bracket behind the throttle body. I removed the TB when I did it. Then I had to bang the bracket from drivers side to passengers side to get it to move out of the way. A ratchet extension and u-joint swivel attachment are your friend to get those hard to reach nuts.
 
#22 ·
Yeah I've got all (7) 8mm bolts unfastened, the 2 studs on the drivers side are out of the brackets and the 2 studs behind the throttle body are loose as well. I was trying to twist the plenum out a little towards the drivers side - it just seems like it needs about an inch over for the studs to unplug from the brackets behind the TB. I can also get my hand underneath at least to look and I see the (3) 8mm bolts hanging down and I've tried to get them to at least stay up and they will not - no way to grab them from the top. I think the rear 8mm by the TB keeps hanging up on something preventing me from pulling this thing out. Was thinking about sticking a thin piece of wood in there to try and keep those 8mm bolts up. It probably doesn't help that I can't reach this area well and I actually had to climb in to the engine bay and sit on the radiator support plus it was night time at this point.

We will see tonight - I probably should take a Xanax beforehand! Thanks for responding!
 
#24 ·
Well... got it done last night - all except the second plenum bracket bolt behind the throttle body. I tried a few different way to get the bolt on and just gave up. Not a fan of leaving it off so I'll try again over the weekend. I've worked on a lot of my own cars (mostly jap made) and this buy far was the most frustrating for what the job actually is.


Johnnstace - when I as at the parts counter at the local Jeep dealer, he laughed at me when I said what I was replacing on my 12 WK2. He said with obvious sarcasm "good luck with that". I asked the one of the service guys that came up to the parts counter - he mentioned about 3 hours of work to change plugs but directed me to the service manager for an estimate. I didn't bother with it but figure 300 to 400. Despite the frustration I would have still opted to save the money for other more important interests like ATVs or firearms.

BTW - I also found a a good set of videos although for 11 to 13 durangos. Same engine and almost he same engine bay obviously. Look up Keni K on youtube or "11 thru 13 v6 3.6 durango spark plug". Sorry can't post a link yet because I'm lacking more posts (per the moderator).

Thanks for everyone who contributed to this - greatly appreciated.
 
#25 ·
Well... got it done last night - all except the second plenum bracket bolt behind the throttle body. I tried a few different way to get the bolt on and just gave up. Not a fan of leaving it off so I'll try again over the weekend. I've worked on a lot of my own cars (mostly jap made) and this buy far was the most frustrating for what the job actually is.

Johnnstace - when I as at the parts counter at the local Jeep dealer, he laughed at me when I said what I was replacing on my 12 WK2. He said with obvious sarcasm "good luck with that". I asked the one of the service guys that came up to the parts counter - he mentioned about 3 hours of work to change plugs but directed me to the service manager for an estimate. I didn't bother with it but figure 300 to 400. Despite the frustration I would have still opted to save the money for other more important interests like ATVs or firearms.

BTW - I also found a a good set of videos although for 11 to 13 durangos. Same engine and almost he same engine bay obviously. Look up Keni K on youtube or "11 thru 13 v6 3.6 durango spark plug". Sorry can't post a link yet because I'm lacking more posts (per the moderator).

Thanks for everyone who contributed to this - greatly appreciated.
Just quoted $467.00 at the dealership near me. I am mechanically inclined, but I think I'm going to sit this one out and let the dealership do it!

Mike
 
#26 ·
Having done this job last week there is one piece of info that could prove helpful to others doing this in the future.

A long 13mm wrench would be helpful when trying to loosen the brackets that attach to the manifold on the drivers side. My hands had many paper cut style cuts because I used a small 13mm wrench and my hands where catching against sharp edges of the plastic intake manifold. Plus, the longer wrench will make loosening of the bolts a lot faster.

This is a pretty straight forward job. Not to complicated but time consuming. I did it in about 3.5 hours but probably could have shaved off 45 minutes if I had had the longer wrench.
 
#30 ·
Going to tackle this problem myself here pretty soon.

Came here after looking at the intake plenum. WTF??!! :laugh2:

I assume you should use iridium plugs under there to avoid doing this job again. Like never again. :grin2:

Youtube has a few. This is the first one I found.

 
Top