Transmission Fluid Leak V6 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-07-2019, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
Bilko
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Transmission Fluid Leak V6

I have leak on the front drivers side, something is dripping onto the belly pan then on to my drive. I am petty sure its transmission fluid because I am am loosing or using about a quart of transmission fluid between oil changes. I was wondering if anybody else has experienced this problem and how difficult it is to fix if I need to replace the cooler and pipes.

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post #2 of 14 Old 05-07-2019, 05:31 PM
ColdCase
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I forget, is your Jeep pre 2014?

Are you sure you are not overfilling the transmission?

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #3 of 14 Old 05-07-2019, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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No, it was leaking when it was really low to a point where shifting was really messed up, its a 2012 with the 5 speed. Its been going on for a while so there is oil every where, I need to give it a pressure wash so I can identify the source of the leak. I am hoping its a pipe or connection because it looks like the cooler is integrated with the AC condenser. do you know if there are after market transmission coolers that can be be added to avoid replacing the integrated unit?
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post #4 of 14 Old 05-07-2019, 06:36 PM
ColdCase
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I think some here have added a generic cooler to replace the OEM.

I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory;
Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #5 of 14 Old 05-08-2019, 02:52 AM
tomit
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https://www.etrailer.com/tran-2011_J...d+Cherokee.htm

No experience with the above coolers. Anyway, they are out there.

Tom

'15 Black V-6 Limited
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post #6 of 14 Old 05-08-2019, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
Bilko
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After a quick search on Google on Google and uTube it looks like this is a common problem and its usually the condenser / cooler that fails.
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post #7 of 14 Old 08-19-2019, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
Bilko
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Update,

It certainly was the condenser and AT cooler, If anybody else has a similar problem its worth checking out this video


It has great information on how to disconnect the various pipes, just be aware that it is much quicker to remove the lower part of the front bumper and the slam bar on top of the radiator that has the hood lock on it rather than removing the entire front end.

Also check that your replacement condenser has the stud that holds the AC pipes into the condenser. Mine came with a bolt that I assumed would replace the stud and nut but it doesn't it just to hold the covers in place whilst shipping. I had to remove the stud from the original condenser using a Torx bit.

If you are doing this the quick way it can also be tricky to release the wire clips that hold in the AT pipes, I got one out easily and after messing around for 5 minutes on the second one I resorted to unscrewing the brass assembly (19mm wrench) and releasing the retainer when the condenser was removed.
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post #8 of 14 Old 09-10-2019, 07:58 PM
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If you dont mind me asking, What would be the quick way, that you are referring to? Do you really need to remove all the body parts in the video? My wife has a 2013 Grand Cherokee with the tranny fluid running down the drivers side condensor.
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post #9 of 14 Old 09-11-2019, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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The "quick" way or more correctly the quicker way is to do this;

First you have to evac the 134A refrigerant, its illegal to just vent this so you should go to an place that can do this. If you are OK with Global warming and think you can do this you need to be VERY careful, you can get instant frost bite and other injuries associated with high pressure refrigerants.

Open the hood and remove the plastic trim down the sides, you have to pop about 8 plastic rivets on each side

Next you want to remove the slam bar that incorporates the hood looking mechanism there are two 10mm bolts on the top on each side and two inside

Remove the top bolt from the coolant reservoir, on the other side you need to remove the bracket that hold the AC pipe in place

Remove the two bolts that hold the two horns on

Remove the bolts that hold the v-braces you can see when you look in from the front

Lift of the slam bar and put it on top of the engine, there is enough slack in the hood release cable so you can leave it attached

Remove the plasitic strip on top of the radiator, two 8mm bolts

Now get under the car and remove the sump guard 4 10mm bolts on the front and two 13mm on the rear

I also removed the skirt from the bottom of the bumper but I am not really sure this needs to be done, I took it off more to find the leak

Next from the bottom reach up and release the two clips that hold the power steering cooler on, squeeze the top and bottom behind the pipe. Be careful because you want to reuse these, you can then just let the power steering cooler rest on the floor.

Disconnect transmission cooler lines or just unscrew the 19mm flanges from the cooler and release the clips after you have removed the condenser

Remove the AC lines by releasing the 12mm nut between the two pipes, do this very slowly just in case there is any residual refrigerant

Remove the condenser by releasing the two clips on the top right and leaf of the condenser and pull it out from the top

Now you have to remove the plastic clips that hold on the PS cooler by gently releasing the barbs on the white plastic retainers on the rear

You new condenser my or may not have holes for the PS clips, if not just lay the old condenser over the new one and mark the positions for the holes and push the clips through where you have marked.

Depending on the replacement you may also need to remove the stud that holds on the AC lines and reuse it on the new one.

Now just put everything back together and you are done:-) well almost

You need to run the engine and put it drive or just go for a short drive to warm up the gearbox and distribute the AT fluid. Then check the level and top it up. I think the 2013 has the 5 speed so there is no dipstick, to check the level you need to buy a separate dipstick from a motor parts store, its like a long spring with a small ruler on the end. It will come with a chart showing what the level should be at a specific temp the 5 speed is generically called the NAG1 so ensure you look at the correct chart. If your transmission is up to normal operating temp it should be around 165F and the level should be 65mm. The tube you insert the dipstick in is on the left side of the engine looking from the front near the bulkhead, I think it says dealer use only, just turn it counter clockwise quarter of a turn and you can remove it.

Don't forget to re-gas your AC! You can do this with Aerosol can type recharge kits (that you can't buy in CA) but its not straight forward because you need the compressor to be running and it won't until you have some pressure in the system plus you need 1.34lbs which is more that one can, I would recommend you get this done professionally. If you do it yourself be careful not to overfill, this is one case where more is not better or colder, the refrigerant needs to compress and expand to cool and overfilling reduces the room for expansion and reduces performance dramatically. it cost me about $150 to get the system evac'd and refilled.

It took me about 2 hours to do this just in my garage with regular wrenches and hand tools. I was going to get it done at the local garage but even the independent shops were quoting north of $1000 when the condenser and AC services came to no more than $250.
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post #10 of 14 Old 03-15-2020, 01:29 PM
danelo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilko View Post
The "quick" way or more correctly the quicker way is to do this;

First you have to evac the 134A refrigerant, its illegal to just vent this so you should go to an place that can do this. If you are OK with Global warming and think you can do this you need to be VERY careful, you can get instant frost bite and other injuries associated with high pressure refrigerants.

Open the hood and remove the plastic trim down the sides, you have to pop about 8 plastic rivets on each side

Next you want to remove the slam bar that incorporates the hood looking mechanism there are two 10mm bolts on the top on each side and two inside

Remove the top bolt from the coolant reservoir, on the other side you need to remove the bracket that hold the AC pipe in place

Remove the two bolts that hold the two horns on

Remove the bolts that hold the v-braces you can see when you look in from the front

Lift of the slam bar and put it on top of the engine, there is enough slack in the hood release cable so you can leave it attached

Remove the plasitic strip on top of the radiator, two 8mm bolts

Now get under the car and remove the sump guard 4 10mm bolts on the front and two 13mm on the rear

I also removed the skirt from the bottom of the bumper but I am not really sure this needs to be done, I took it off more to find the leak

Next from the bottom reach up and release the two clips that hold the power steering cooler on, squeeze the top and bottom behind the pipe. Be careful because you want to reuse these, you can then just let the power steering cooler rest on the floor.

Disconnect transmission cooler lines or just unscrew the 19mm flanges from the cooler and release the clips after you have removed the condenser

Remove the AC lines by releasing the 12mm nut between the two pipes, do this very slowly just in case there is any residual refrigerant

Remove the condenser by releasing the two clips on the top right and leaf of the condenser and pull it out from the top

Now you have to remove the plastic clips that hold on the PS cooler by gently releasing the barbs on the white plastic retainers on the rear

You new condenser my or may not have holes for the PS clips, if not just lay the old condenser over the new one and mark the positions for the holes and push the clips through where you have marked.

Depending on the replacement you may also need to remove the stud that holds on the AC lines and reuse it on the new one.

Now just put everything back together and you are done:-) well almost

You need to run the engine and put it drive or just go for a short drive to warm up the gearbox and distribute the AT fluid. Then check the level and top it up. I think the 2013 has the 5 speed so there is no dipstick, to check the level you need to buy a separate dipstick from a motor parts store, its like a long spring with a small ruler on the end. It will come with a chart showing what the level should be at a specific temp the 5 speed is generically called the NAG1 so ensure you look at the correct chart. If your transmission is up to normal operating temp it should be around 165F and the level should be 65mm. The tube you insert the dipstick in is on the left side of the engine looking from the front near the bulkhead, I think it says dealer use only, just turn it counter clockwise quarter of a turn and you can remove it.

Don't forget to re-gas your AC! You can do this with Aerosol can type recharge kits (that you can't buy in CA) but its not straight forward because you need the compressor to be running and it won't until you have some pressure in the system plus you need 1.34lbs which is more that one can, I would recommend you get this done professionally. If you do it yourself be careful not to overfill, this is one case where more is not better or colder, the refrigerant needs to compress and expand to cool and overfilling reduces the room for expansion and reduces performance dramatically. it cost me about $150 to get the system evac'd and refilled.

It took me about 2 hours to do this just in my garage with regular wrenches and hand tools. I was going to get it done at the local garage but even the independent shops were quoting north of $1000 when the condenser and AC services came to no more than $250.
Thank you for this excellent post. Lots of good information. I have the same problem and will be doing this repair soon.

What brand of AC condenser did you buy? I am thinking of buying the Denso one on Rockauto for around $90USD.
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post #11 of 14 Old 03-18-2020, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
Bilko
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I like to support my local auto parts store but they were all asking ~$300 so I got this from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are multiple options that all look like them come out of the same factory. The Denso one should be at least as good.

If you haven't got them you may want to consider buying the tools for release the quick release connectors used on the AT lines, these are cheap plastic ones, if you plan to use them in the future it may be worth investing in the aluminum versions

https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-l...-pc-63595.html
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post #12 of 14 Old 03-18-2020, 04:35 PM
danelo
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Thanks.
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post #13 of 14 Old 03-25-2020, 10:56 PM
danelo
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I did this repair yesterday. Fairly straight forward not to difficult. The only thing I could add is changing out the gasket/o-ring on the AC lines. They are like a crush washer with an o-ring type device on the inside. I just bough an assortment from Rockauto at the same time I bought the AC condenser.

Just an idea so that leaks do not show up in the future.
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post #14 of 14 Old 04-08-2020, 06:52 PM
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I did this repair yesterday. Had the same problem some of us with the early wk2 are having. The factory trans cooler was leaking on the upper driver side area.

I did the work-around and installed an aftermarket transmission cooler for a couple of reasons. 1) Dealer wanted over $1k to do the job (parts, labor, A/C Service- high estimate. I'm sure an inde shop would have had a better price just happened to be at the dealer when it was discovered), 2) I'm just begining to dabble in working on my own rig- wanted to give it a shot and save money 3) I didn't want to do it myself and still have to fool with scheduling and paying to have my A/C evaced/recharged.

I got an Imperial MaxiKool from Advance. Mounted it horizontally on the front of the stock trans cooler between the V-braces with the push thru locks provided. Disconnected the trans lines from the stock cooler connection, slid the aftermarket hose over the end, and clamped it down. I did have to make a cutout in the upper part of the plastic close-out panel for the hoses to run thru.

Fairly simple and straight forward repair. Took me about 4hrs. I took my time so it may not take that long for everyone.

Sidenote: I tried to do it the less involved way mentioned above but couldn't get enough working space with the tools I had to get the radiator support off. I ended up taking the bumper cover and grille off. Not a bad morning job
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