TIPM or something else, long read. - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 29 Old 10-21-2019, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
smmcnelly
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Exclamation TIPM or something else, long read.

Looking for some help, our 2011 GC recently flashed all the warning lights on and off while I was driving, then a few days later it did it again, this time the display shut off and reset along with all the warning lights, that same day it did it over and over again and then shut off completely.

We were able to coast to a safe spot, however, it was like the computer was caught in a reset loop, resetting over and over again.

When this happened we had no electrical power what so ever, no flashers, nothing, all the relays in the TIPM are clicking over and over again, dash is flashing on and off, as a shot in the dark I decide to pull the hot wire off under the hood and this reset it and I was able to drive it to the dealership.

We took to local Jeep dealership and 2 days later the diagnosis was bad alternator, so we had the alternator replaced and I opted to replace the battery since it was original, problem solved or so I thought.

Several weeks later my wife called me a panic, Jeep shuts again, same problem!! back to dealership we immediately go, several days later I get a phone call and the Tech says they opened up a "star report" and are saying its the wireless ignition module, so they replace that at my cost.

2 months later while on Vacation in traffic headed down a 7% grade in traffic low and behold it happens again, Jeep is locked up I threw into park out of anger and now were stuck in the right hand lane blocking traffic while headed down a mountain.

I had no idea how to get it out of park, fortunately I still had cell serviced so I looked online and found out where the neutral override was located. I was able to pull it in the neutral and roll onto the shoulder while my wife was directing traffic away from running into us because by this time traffic had started moving again.

Because I thought it was fixed I had absolutely no tools in the car, we had to call 911, when the firetruck arrived I borrowed a wrench pulled the cable resting whatever.

We parked the Jeep rented a car for the next 4 days, when we turned in the rental we were able to drive home 300 miles with no problem, this thing is completely random.

Thanks for the long read, frustrated.

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post #2 of 29 Old 10-21-2019, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
smmcnelly
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I cant post a video, so if you are curious and want to help please go to reddit r/jeep search 2011 Grand Cherokee shuts off while driving in order to see the video.

TIA
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post #3 of 29 Old 10-21-2019, 02:58 PM
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I've seen a few similar stalling threads here. There are a couple haunted vehicle threads indexed in the maintenance sticky that may give you more ideas. I seem to recall a fairly recent thread on the same subject, when I get back I'll try to find it. Were you steering into a turn when the jeep stalled? Some vehicles are plagued with electrical connector or grounding problems, either corrosion or pushed pins.

You wouldn't happen to know what fault codes were stored?

https://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f309...index-3478986/

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post #4 of 29 Old 10-21-2019, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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Was never told of any codes stored, however, since they refuse to work on it again I should be able to pull the codes myself.
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post #5 of 29 Old 10-21-2019, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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To answer your question, no I was not steering into a turn when it shut off.

If you have a chance I encourage everyone wanting to help and God forbid this happen to anyone else please go to reddit r/jeep search 2011 Grand Cherokee shuts off while driving in order to see the video.
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post #6 of 29 Old 10-21-2019, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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post #7 of 29 Old 10-21-2019, 08:50 PM
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Looks like a power problem to me, perhaps a ground. What or where, dunno. Check the battery cable connections, check the battery, see what volts its providing as you try to start. Measure the voltage from the negative terminal to a good chassis ground point when trying to start.

Its seems the battery is disconnected for all those repairs. Perhaps the battery connection is good for awhile, and then deteriorates until you see the problem. You could try a different dealer.

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Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #8 of 29 Old 10-21-2019, 09:15 PM
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Interesting and only a few weeks to Halloween.

But looking at this you said this.

We took to local Jeep dealership and 2 days later the diagnosis was bad alternator, so we had the alternator replaced and I opted to replace the battery since it was original, problem solved or so I thought.

So i take it the Alternator was bad, can you call up the DEALER AND FIND YOUR OLD PART.

Just wondering how the Alt was bad, as I think that it could damage all kinds of part in the vehicles systems.

One thing I recall was bad brushes, in ALts causing all kinds of computer glitch's from RF.

What kind of alt did the dealer use to replace your alt.
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post #9 of 29 Old 10-22-2019, 12:59 AM
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Bad alternators on these vehicles will stop charging enough or intermittently charge which draws the bat voltage down. Things start getting weird when voltage drops, there are dozens of computers and computers don't like being in the grey area of insufficient power.

Sounds like its an intermittent fault, but is the Jeep dead now? If so they should be able to figure it out.

The alternator, battery, and grounds are the first things suspected in this scenario.. then the WIN module... then the start looking at bad modules, a noisy hight sensor can cause all kinds of fault lights. But this apparent reset thing experienced by the OP is probably the PCM itself or wiring. Unfortunately, with these kinds of intermittents, it down to part swapping until its fixed. There are plenty of techs out there that can figure it out. There have got to be plenty of error codes.

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Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #10 of 29 Old 10-22-2019, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. factory mopar alternator was used, chassis ground is clean and corrosion free. The Jeep was taken to a Jeep dealership for all repairs.

I can take it to another dealership, however, at this point I have lost faith in these mechanics ability to find the problem.

Therefore i'm posting here, this must be a completely unique problem.
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post #11 of 29 Old 10-22-2019, 09:36 AM
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You can test alternators and batteries independent of the vehicle so I don't understand why they did this.

Just throwing "known good" parts at it isn't really good trouble shooting. It's cheap.

To me it sounds like a poor connection causing a voltage drop. Current gets low enough to drop out relays. And it's repeating as VA goes back up.

Mine is all good for now but I like helping since this site was GREAT to me when I got mine last year with issues.
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post #12 of 29 Old 10-22-2019, 09:45 AM
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Never knew about the neutral over ride dealio either. But I just looked and my 2011 doesn't have this one.


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post #13 of 29 Old 10-22-2019, 10:12 AM
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That video is for 8 speeds. At the bottom of the early model cup holder is little cover you pry open with a screw driver. Under the cover is a lock lever you press and hold to unlock the shift lever. Early models have a cable between the shift lever and transmission so park not computer controlled and not as big an issue. Now if the transmission is mechanically jammed up, unlocking the shift lever is not going to help.
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Current: 2011 Grand Cherokee Overland V8, 2009 Liberty Rocky Mt V6
Previous: 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo I6, 1979 CJ7 I6 Quadratrac
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post #14 of 29 Old 10-22-2019, 10:17 AM
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Thumbs up



Yeah, I just read the owners manual. The over ride switch is under neath the back side cup holder on my 2011 5 speed. Need a flat blade screw driver to actuate it.

To the right of the shift lever and down a bit.
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post #15 of 29 Old 10-22-2019, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTizzie View Post
You can test alternators and batteries independent of the vehicle so I don't understand why they did this.

Just throwing "known good" parts at it isn't really good trouble shooting. It's cheap.

To me it sounds like a poor connection causing a voltage drop. Current gets low enough to drop out relays. And it's repeating as VA goes back up.

Mine is all good for now but I like helping since this site was GREAT to me when I got mine last year with issues.
I don't disagree, however, this is what they did and I had no reason to question them at the time.

I agree with the voltage drop, I took the cable off the remote jumper cable location under the hood last night and I thought I was able to replicate the same condition, so now I am wondering if that jumper has something broken in it.

This problem did not surface until the dealership had to replace the oil cooler.
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